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How much to cut off the tip?


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I bought a used F9 for a great deal so bought it though shaft may not be best for me. Closer than I thought though. 

What is the minimum that must be cut from tip to make any difference in flight from increased stability?

Thanks  

WITB

Drivers: Cobra F9 w/Atmos

FW: Cleveland HiBore 3W

Hybrid: Titleist driving iron, Titleist hybrid

Irons: Ping Eye2 3-S & TA 845s 3-W

Wedge: Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56 ES s300

Putter: Ping Zing 2 33.75" , Anser 3

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That's a fairly vague question.  Anything taken off the tip will make a difference.  How much until it's noticeable is different from person to person.

I'd recommend finding the right shaft instead of trying to manufacture one with a poorly fit shaft... unless it's really close and you're just tweaking.

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Callaway Epic Flash SZ 5wd w/ PX HZRDUS Black 85g, 6.5 @ 42.25"

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It is closer than I expected.

Thanks. 92/100 is a good value I suppose 

WITB

Drivers: Cobra F9 w/Atmos

FW: Cleveland HiBore 3W

Hybrid: Titleist driving iron, Titleist hybrid

Irons: Ping Eye2 3-S & TA 845s 3-W

Wedge: Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56 ES s300

Putter: Ping Zing 2 33.75" , Anser 3

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If the shaft is already trimmed to playing length, any tipping will shorten the shaft - meaning you will need to extend the butt - which could make matters worse...😬

 

It's always best to build the profile into the overall club before anything else - the section of the shaft that you intend to remain in the overall build is crucial. I did a post earlier that explains how it works: 

 

But how this actually relates to how you perceive it as a means of stability and control is entirely up to your own opinion. It does get said a lot, but if you get properly fitted before buying equipment, it does take the element of doubt out of the equation when it comes to wondering what you want and how you want to make it perform. Just saying.

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10 hours ago, jaskanski said:

If the shaft is already trimmed to playing length, any tipping will shorten the shaft - meaning you will need to extend the butt - which could make matters worse...😬

 

It's always best to build the profile into the overall club before anything else - the section of the shaft that you intend to remain in the overall build is crucial. I did a post earlier that explains how it works: 

 

But how this actually relates to how you perceive it as a means of stability and control is entirely up to your own opinion. It does get said a lot, but if you get properly fitted before buying equipment, it does take the element of doubt out of the equation when it comes to wondering what you want and how you want to make it perform. Just saying.

I appreciate what you're saying. Unfortunately fitters pretend to be incapable of translating information to prior models and shaft combos.

I grasp the fitting concept but too often it seems more of a selling model.  I don't and won't buy brand new. Thus fitting isn't an option. 

Your post is appreciated.  Guess I will never know what length must be cut off the tip to make a difference.  

Is it 1" or .5" or does it have to exceed those amounts. 

Thanks anyway!

WITB

Drivers: Cobra F9 w/Atmos

FW: Cleveland HiBore 3W

Hybrid: Titleist driving iron, Titleist hybrid

Irons: Ping Eye2 3-S & TA 845s 3-W

Wedge: Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56 ES s300

Putter: Ping Zing 2 33.75" , Anser 3

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12 minutes ago, Badams69 said:

I appreciate what you're saying. Unfortunately fitters pretend to be incapable of translating information to prior models and shaft combos.

I grasp the fitting concept but too often it seems more of a selling model.  I don't and won't buy brand new. Thus fitting isn't an option. 

Your post is appreciated.  Guess I will never know what length must be cut off the tip to make a difference.  

Is it 1" or .5" or does it have to exceed those amounts. 

Thanks anyway!

I think you are missing the point. Any adjustment  you do makes a difference by definition. Once you cut anything, it's a non-reversible exercise. How much  of a difference it makes depends on what you as a person can perceive or see in real terms. Generally speaking, it is better to start small and see how it works - if more tipping is required, then you can take another small amount off. If you're too impetuous and lob off too much on a whim  because you don't even know what the shaft spec is - you have just ruined your first shaft - congratulations.

If however you saw a fitter and got the correct set up, it would save you the bother of the trial and error process that (a) could have prevented you from buying a club that is totally unsuitable in the first place and (b) would give you the specs to look for if you don't want to make a purchase that you perceive as a "selling model" - it's nothing of the kind. Once you know what your specs are that work, you can translate that to any piece of equipment that you will ever own again - new or used - not a bad proposal at all. A real fitter will never force you into buying anything - you just pay for their time and expertise. If they're trying to sell you a club - tell them exactly what your intentions are. If they refuse to fit you any further, it's their loss and not yours. 

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Tipping an inch will make a noticeable difference but not in a huge way. It will stiffen the shaft but it wont make much of a change in flight characteristics.
I understand you are hoping to change flight shape but tipping will only do so much.
I do recommend experimenting though. Tip it an inch and see what you get. You may be able to get away with the shorter playing length. Or if you have enough parallel tip section tip it 1.5" and add some to the butt. Going all the way to 2" can be a bit extreme.
The shaft doesnt work for you so tinkering with it wont hurt it.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, jaskanski said:

I think you are missing the point. Any adjustment  you do makes a difference by definition. Once you cut anything, it's a non-reversible exercise. How much  of a difference it makes depends on what you as a person can perceive or see in real terms. Generally speaking, it is better to start small and see how it works - if more tipping is required, then you can take another small amount off. If you're too impetuous and lob off too much on a whim  because you don't even know what the shaft spec is - you have just ruined your first shaft - congratulations.

If however you saw a fitter and got the correct set up, it would save you the bother of the trial and error process that (a) could have prevented you from buying a club that is totally unsuitable in the first place and (b) would give you the specs to look for if you don't want to make a purchase that you perceive as a "selling model" - it's nothing of the kind. Once you know what your specs are that work, you can translate that to any piece of equipment that you will ever own again - new or used - not a bad proposal at all. A real fitter will never force you into buying anything - you just pay for their time and expertise. If they're trying to sell you a club - tell them exactly what your intentions are. If they refuse to fit you any further, it's their loss and not yours. 

I really appreciate that you took time to reply. 

Though everything you are saying is surely accurate,  it assumes you are sharing with someone who is clueless.

Which unfortunately we never know on here. 

I'll simply say this regarding fittings. I've shared verbatim what I said here about my intentions and it never changed anything regarding the pretend of ignorance at the end. 

The worst 4 iron sets I've ever owned have been the 4 that came from fittings. 

Worst putter....same.

It has yet to help me even when I did it the supposed correct way.

Drivers... other than my first fitting attempt with top tier fitter I haven't done one... that went like I've shared 

( BEFORE.."yes I've been fitting for 15 years and know all the shafts well so we can retro fit".....AFTER ....."I am not allowed to recommend any prior models or shafts that we didn't actually hit ...sorry".

SO.... Other than a run through PGA SS ...  I won't again without much reservation.  It doesn't work for me .... and again fitters in my experience have lacked integrity to a ridiculously high degree. 

WITB

Drivers: Cobra F9 w/Atmos

FW: Cleveland HiBore 3W

Hybrid: Titleist driving iron, Titleist hybrid

Irons: Ping Eye2 3-S & TA 845s 3-W

Wedge: Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56 ES s300

Putter: Ping Zing 2 33.75" , Anser 3

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2 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

Tipping an inch will make a noticeable difference but not in a huge way. It will stiffen the shaft but it wont make much of a change in flight characteristics.
I understand you are hoping to change flight shape but tipping will only do so much.
I do recommend experimenting though. Tip it an inch and see what you get. You may be able to get away with the shorter playing length. Or if you have enough parallel tip section tip it 1.5" and add some to the butt. Going all the way to 2" can be a bit extreme.
The shaft doesnt work for you so tinkering with it wont hurt it.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks. Yes. The shaft won't be around for long without some adjustment or replacement. 

 

WITB

Drivers: Cobra F9 w/Atmos

FW: Cleveland HiBore 3W

Hybrid: Titleist driving iron, Titleist hybrid

Irons: Ping Eye2 3-S & TA 845s 3-W

Wedge: Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56 ES s300

Putter: Ping Zing 2 33.75" , Anser 3

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Thanks. Yes. The shaft won't be around for long without some adjustment or replacement. 
 
Then go crazy with it and see what you learn.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

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