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.370 tip in a .355 hosel


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Normal practice for hybrid shafts - not a problem for most shaft OEMs.

Iron shafts may be a bit different though - if it is tipped trimmed to flex to be used for a specific iron# then it would most certainly be a no.

In summary - hybrid yes - iron(s) no- (depending on circumstances)

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Normal practice for hybrid shafts - not a problem for most shaft OEMs.
Iron shafts may be a bit different though - if it is tipped trimmed to flex to be used for a specific iron# then it would most certainly be a no.
In summary - hybrid yes - iron(s) no- (depending on circumstances)

What do you mean if it is tipped trimmed? I have been emailing fujikura about one of their shafts that is .370 parallel tip. They said you can definitely sand down to .355; it is only 15/1000. The shaft is both butt and tip trimmed.

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50 minutes ago, cnosil said:


What do you mean if it is tipped trimmed? I have been emailing fujikura about one of their shafts that is .370 parallel tip. They said you can definitely sand down to .355; it is only 15/1000. The shaft is both butt and tip trimmed.

Like I said - it depends on the circumstances. Some shafts have enough parallel tip section to trim to whatever flex you like, but may not possess enough wall thickness to allow them to be shaved down to taper. It's not a huge size as you have mentioned, but it's enough to cause failure at the stress point where the shaft meets the hosel.

Specific hybrid shafts are usually good to go as they have reinforced tip sections and they are not likely to be trimmed to the same extent of an iron shaft - they tend to be called hybrid shafts for a reason -they're meant to be used in hybrids. Parallel iron shfts are meant to be used in parallel bore iron heads....

If you are using parallel shafts to fit taper hosels in irons - then you've got the wrong shaft. Use a taper shaft shaft for the correct insertion. 

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Parallel iron shfts are meant to be used in parallel bore iron heads....

If you are using parallel shafts to fit taper hosels in irons - then you've got the wrong shaft. Use a taper shaft shaft for the correct insertion. 

 

if the manufacturer only makes .370 parallel; you opinion is that they shouldn’t be sanded down and used in .355 taper?

 

I have also read that .355

Taper iron started as .370

Parallel and we tip trimmed and taper by the manufacturer.

 

As you said, will vary based on manufacturer so should we believe a manufacturer when they say it is acceptable?

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8 hours ago, Arlarson said:

 

Anyone have any experience putting a .370 graphite iron shaft in a .355 hosel? Thinking I can just carefully sand it down. Thoughts?

 

Yes, it can be done.  As it has been said, it depends on the shaft.  Wall thicknesses can vary.

I have done it using a UST Mamiya ProForce rv2 95 in a MacGregor VIP 1025M head, because I had a shaft lying around.  I was tinkering.  One or two shafts is not too bad if you have the time, but I wouldn't want to do a full set.  I had no problems, but my swing speed is not very high.

My question is why would you spend the time and effort doing it when there are lots of good choices for .355 shafts in various price ranges?  If you already have shafts pulled from other clubs, I would sell them on eBay and buy .355 shafts.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not to beat a dead horse but wack wack wack..

First - if at all possible shaft tip to match hosel diameter.

second - yes it can be done "carefully" what is mentioned above is the shafts the are typically made in specific lengths and are .370 will have a bit more meat on the end and can be sanded.

others with longer .370 tip sections can thin out as tipped up the shaft. How much? Each maker varies. Keeping in mind the first 3/8" to 1/2" is wear most of the sanding will occur to make it fit.

When doing this and using graphite please consider if your brother chops wood or can get through the ball. If he take a divot te size of Rhode Island you will back to the bench reworking clubs.

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On 7/20/2020 at 12:28 AM, Arlarson said:

 

Anyone have any experience putting a .370 graphite iron shaft in a .355 hosel? Thinking I can just carefully sand it down. Thoughts?

 

Sent from my LGUS992 using MyGolfSpy mobile app

 

 

 

I had it done a good while back........put a Project X 5.0 driver shaft into a Powerbilt AirForceOne WMD driver head.  We carefully drilled out more of the driver head then glued to larger shaft into place.  I never had any issues with it, but rest assured, I was not swinging for the fences either.

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2 hours ago, McGolf said:

Not to beat a dead horse but wack wack wack..

First - if at all possible shaft tip to match hosel diameter.

second - yes it can be done "carefully" what is mentioned above is the shafts the are typically made in specific lengths and are .370 will have a bit more meat on the end and can be sanded.

others with longer .370 tip sections can thin out as tipped up the shaft. How much? Each maker varies. Keeping in mind the first 3/8" to 1/2" is wear most of the sanding will occur to make it fit.

When doing this and using graphite please consider if your brother chops wood or can get through the ball. If he take a divot te size of Rhode Island you will back to the bench reworking clubs.

Don't have an on-topic comment, but I laughed at divot the size of Rhode Island. That's me on a bad day.

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  • 7 months later...

This is a 370 shaft that i sanded down today to fit in a 355 taper hosel. You have to inspect the shaft very closely to see that there is even any taper at all. The amount of material being taken off is extremely small. The main negative was how long this took. I did it completely by hand and measured and check the fit in the hosel probably 10 times. Took about 30 minutes or maybe even a bit longer for a single shaft. 

IMG_9193.jpg.9cc411fb3a6b52c6d546f6ff8e1d9b7b.jpg

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Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
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8 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

This is a 370 shaft that i sanded down today to fit in a 355 taper hosel. You have to inspect the shaft very closely to see that there is even any taper at all. The amount of material being taken off is extremely small. The main negative was how long this took. I did it completely by hand and measured and check the fit in the hosel probably 10 times. Took about 30 minutes or maybe even a bit longer for a single shaft. 

IMG_9193.jpg.9cc411fb3a6b52c6d546f6ff8e1d9b7b.jpg

Looks near perfect. Great job. I have done this as well many times over the years. Made some notes over the years from my trial and errors. My best results are when I take my time like you did here. Also the measurement part (i.e. depth of .355 hosel, ensuring there is enough parallel tip area to sand, etc, etc). Not my favorite or preferred process for installing a shaft but sometimes it works great....sometimes 😀.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, just wondering if anyone knows the diameter of callaway x forged 18 irons? I think they are .355 but not 100 percent sure. I have project x 6.0 in them but I need a higher launching shaft so I was gonna get tt elevate shafts that are .355

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On 3/27/2021 at 4:04 PM, dlow206 said:

This is a 370 shaft that i sanded down today to fit in a 355 taper hosel. You have to inspect the shaft very closely to see that there is even any taper at all. The amount of material being taken off is extremely small. The main negative was how long this took. I did it completely by hand and measured and check the fit in the hosel probably 10 times. Took about 30 minutes or maybe even a bit longer for a single shaft. 

IMG_9193.jpg.9cc411fb3a6b52c6d546f6ff8e1d9b7b.jpg

Have not seen thick wall in the tips like that for awhile now, this will have no issue to turn from 0.370 to 0.355 in the tip for shaving off 1/8" -1/2".

Need a caliper to measure the result of turning for less need to dry fitting so often during the process.

The difficult part is to keep the turning inline with the original angle.  Hand turning might tilt the angle slightly.   Adhere to the saying of "measure twice and cut once"  ,  The way you're doing might take more time but decreased the chance of messing up. 

Sometime ago I had the motive of making something like a pencil sharpening to shave the tip, engineered for reducing the tip of the graphite shaft from 0.370-0.355.  In theory, it would only take a few turn to accomplish this goal.  However, the cost of design and construction of such device would over run the return from practical commercial application.  The potential market for such shaving device is not large enough to support manufacturing it.

 

 

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A hosel reamer is also an option which helps to retain shaft integrity - but it is a change that cannot be undone - its easy, I've done it and to produces a beautiful .370 shaft fit in a .355 hosel - by making that hosel .370 forever

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  • 2 months later...

I know this isn’t stand practice but F&$k it. I had a .335 cobra adapter and a .370 shaft but didn’t know it. Once I pulled the shaft and realized it didn’t fit into the adapter all the way I said F it and took a hammer and a rag and just pounded away til the adapter stop sliding onto the tip. Looks straight. Guess I’ll find out how long it will stay on hahaha.

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On 3/27/2021 at 5:04 PM, dlow206 said:

This is a 370 shaft that i sanded down today to fit in a 355 taper hosel. You have to inspect the shaft very closely to see that there is even any taper at all. The amount of material being taken off is extremely small. The main negative was how long this took. I did it completely by hand and measured and check the fit in the hosel probably 10 times. Took about 30 minutes or maybe even a bit longer for a single shaft. 

IMG_9193.jpg.9cc411fb3a6b52c6d546f6ff8e1d9b7b.jpg

Sure looks like plenty of cross-section left.  Not disputing that the 0.015 reduction in diameter weakens the shaft, but it would seem to require one heck of a flexure load to be the difference.  Dressing off the step, so as not to leave a sharp edge would be wise. Well, at least that's protocol in the aerospace industry... would imagine it applies to club loads as well 🙂

I now see another piece of equipment you (we) need to add to the workbench... but maybe use a 600 grit vs. the 80 that comes with the unit 👍.

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1 hour ago, fixyurdivot said:

Sure looks like plenty of cross-section left.  Not disputing that the 0.015 reduction in diameter weakens the shaft, but it would seem to require one heck of a flexure load to be the difference.  Dressing off the step, so as not to leave a sharp edge would be wise. Well, at least that's protocol in the aerospace industry... would imagine it applies to club loads as well 🙂

I now see another piece of equipment you (we) need to add to the workbench... but maybe use a 600 grit vs. the 80 that comes with the unit 👍.

image.png.aeeedfe32547eb8e2fa61d1da3b1568b.png

On the belt sander, i hear that the 42" belt sander is better because the RPMs are lower

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Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
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22 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

On the belt sander, i hear that the 42" belt sander is better because the RPMs are lower

Variable speed unit?  

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:ping-small: Glide 2.0 56 Degree SW   (removed from double secret probation 😍)

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  • 1 year later...
On 7/20/2020 at 12:28 AM, Arlarson said:

 

Anyone have any experience putting a .370 graphite iron shaft in a .355 hosel? Thinking I can just carefully sand it down. Thoughts?

 

Sent from my LGUS992 using MyGolfSpy mobile app

I would recommend you consider buying the 3 drill bore set from Golfworks and bore the hosel to .370.  It is a relatively simple process and you do not have to worry about compromising the parallel tip by sanding.  

 

 

 

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