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Has anyone here had success with bowed wrists, in the spirit of DJ and Collin Morikawa?

After cleaning up some fundamental setup issues, I am leaving the face open quite often. Based on previous instruction, there needs to be some amount of flexion to shallow the club in transition. For me, it seems to make sense to bow earlier and hold it through the swing. Seems like less room for error with timing. 

 


Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Current MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Fujikura and Nippon fan. Connoisseur of grips.

Updated 7/14/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  :scotty-small: Squareback 1 - Sense Grips S1 - Stability Shaft

Current Putter Collection:EVNROLL: ER10 Outback,  :bettinardi-small: 2017 Studio Stock 3, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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3 hours ago, dlow206 said:

Has anyone here had success with bowed wrists, in the spirit of DJ and Collin Morikawa?

After cleaning up some fundamental setup issues, I am leaving the face open quite often. Based on previous instruction, there needs to be some amount of flexion to shallow the club in transition. For me, it seems to make sense to bow earlier and hold it through the swing. Seems like less room for error with timing. 

Less room for error than what?  I remember seeing in a Monte video that in transition it didn't really matter much where the wrists were at the top of the backswing, as long as they flexed a little in the downswing.  Obviously, a flatter wrist is better but it should still flex a little to shallow the club.  

I think you need to do it early at the top because once you start the downswing, the swing pretty much is dictated by what you did in setup, backswing and transition.  There is no "hold it" through the swing... that just happens.


We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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2 minutes ago, Kenny B said:

Less room for error than what?  I remember seeing in a Monte video that in transition it didn't really matter much where the wrists were at the top of the backswing, as long as they flexed a little in the downswing.  Obviously, a flatter wrist is better but it should still flex a little to shallow the club.  

I think you need to do it early at the top because once you start the downswing, the swing pretty much is dictated by what you did in setup, backswing and transition.  There is no "hold it" through the swing... that just happens.

I guess i mean less room for error than being cupped at the top. I used to have a really strong right hand grip with cupped wrists at the top but a closed face and that was a disaster (at least for me).

Now with a more neutral grip, I find I am leaving the face too open at times, which causes a push with irons and a push fade or even a push slice once in a while with the driver.


Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Current MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Fujikura and Nippon fan. Connoisseur of grips.

Updated 7/14/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  :scotty-small: Squareback 1 - Sense Grips S1 - Stability Shaft

Current Putter Collection:EVNROLL: ER10 Outback,  :bettinardi-small: 2017 Studio Stock 3, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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Yeah, cupped is the worst; takes longer to flatten the wrists in transition.

I fought that for awhile; produced a weak fade shot.  Overemphasizing the shallowing of the club in slo-mo practice helps; you don't really get that shallow in a regular swing.  I still have to work at it.  I also have a tendency to pull the club to the inside on the backswing, which promoted cupping at the top for me.  I do better when I focus on keeping the club in front of me as I rotate; puts the wrists in a better position, then flex a little when starting down.


We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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I did a lesson last summer and my instructor recommended I try to add a bit more flexion. I think it reached a point where I was overdoing it and I've since stopped focusing on it as much. I think practicing it has helped me to flatten the wrist a touch more naturally and I'm pretty happy with my position at the top right now. It's certainly much better than it used to be.

Like you, I tried to add that extra bit of flexion as early as I could to protect against timing issues and such. If you notice the way DJ takes the club back you can see he starts to set the wrists almost immediately.

 

 

 

One thing I've done in the past to sort of mimic this is to actually push the hands forward prior to starting the backswing just like a lot of guys do with their putting stroke. It works okay, but for whatever reason I struggle to pull it off without speeding up my tempo which can cause all sorts of other problems. 

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Driver: Mizuno ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S
Fairway Wood: Mizuno ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S
Hyrbrid: Mizuno CLK 19* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB
Irons: Nike Vapor Pro Combo (4-PW) Dynamic Gold Pro S300
Wedges: Bridgestone Tour B XW-1 50*, 54*, & 58* Nippon Modus 3 105
Putter: Scotty Cameron Futura 6m 33"
Ball: Bridgestone Tour B XS
Bag: 2017 Titleist Players 5 Stand Bag

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30 minutes ago, TR1PTIK said:

I did a lesson last summer and my instructor recommended I try to add a bit more flexion. I think it reached a point where I was overdoing it and I've since stopped focusing on it as much. I think practicing it has helped me to flatten the wrist a touch more naturally and I'm pretty happy with my position at the top right now. It's certainly much better than it used to be.

Like you, I tried to add that extra bit of flexion as early as I could to protect against timing issues and such. If you notice the way DJ takes the club back you can see he starts to set the wrists almost immediately.

 

 

 

One thing I've done in the past to sort of mimic this is to actually push the hands forward prior to starting the backswing just like a lot of guys do with their putting stroke. It works okay, but for whatever reason I struggle to pull it off without speeding up my tempo which can cause all sorts of other problems. 

Yeah, I am concerned about overdoing it. However, with a few practice swings without a ball, I do notice that unless I try to overexaggerate, when I try to bow, my wrists actually end up in a fairly flat, nice position. 

I used to be a big cupper at the top, but with a closed face at the top. I am not even sure how that is possible..., but glad that is mostly gone.

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Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Current MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Fujikura and Nippon fan. Connoisseur of grips.

Updated 7/14/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  :scotty-small: Squareback 1 - Sense Grips S1 - Stability Shaft

Current Putter Collection:EVNROLL: ER10 Outback,  :bettinardi-small: 2017 Studio Stock 3, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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Rather than something you set and leave bowed throughout the swing I think of it as something best done a small amount from the top to help get the face squaring earlier.


Mizuno ST190 9* Driver / Taylormade M2 15* 3W / Callaway Razr Fit 18* 5W (stiff graphite, standard)

Taylormade GAPR Mid 3 & 4 (stiff graphite, standard)

Sub 70 24 deg 699U 5 iron (stiff graphite, standard length, 1 deg upright lie)

Cobra King F6 Irons 6-PW (stiff graphite, hard stepped, standard length, 1 deg upright lie)

Cleveland CBX 50* & 54* / Ping Glide 2.0 60* (stiff graphite, hard stepped, standard length, 1 deg upright lie)

8802 Putter 33" / Chrome Soft Truvis Yellow

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I think Martin Chuck did a video somewhere that shows most tour golfers get lead wrist flexion (bow) somewhere in the downswing, and the bowed wrist at the top does mean less club face movement throughout the swing. I think the one thing about having a bowed wrist at the top is you have to rotate hard, especially if you want to fade the ball at all, so it not necessarily as simple as bowing your wrist at the top of your swing.  Obviously its best to work with a swing coach unless you're incredibly knowledge about the golf swing and how to make changes successfully.


Driver :     :cobra-small: F7 - Project X Hzrdus Yellow 6.5 75g

3w:           :cobra-small:  F7 Fairway - Project X Hzrdus Yellow 6.5 75g

Hybrid:     :cobra-small: F6 Hybrid - KBS Tour Hybrid Prototype 95g X-Stiff

Irons:       :mizuno-small: JPX 900 Forged (4,5) JPX 900 Tour (6-P) KBS C-Taper 130 (Softstepped)

Wedes:         :titelist-small: SM7 52* F Grind, 56* M Gind (KBS C-Taper 125), 60* S Grind

Putter:   :cameron-small: Futura X7M

 

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I used to have a terrible cupped wrist.  During a lesson, the instructor described the feeling  I needed to have as twisting a screwdriver.  It felt a lot like I had a bowed wrist, but in reality it really was flat, which was the result I was looking for.  


:taylormade-small: M3 driver

:cobra-small: F-max 3/5 fairway woods

:cobra-small: F9 5 hybrid

:cobra-small: 5-SW irons

:cleveland-small: Smart Sole 4 chipper

:taylormade-small: Ardmore 2 putter

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