First time help please - 845s / Eye2 project

[Badams69]

Your input is appreciated - PLEASE and THANK YOU!

I'm setting out to revamp two old sets of irons:

Tommy Armour 845s and Ping Eye2

What is the best resource to (bible so to speak):

1. Know what the hell I'm doing in reshafting and picking right shaft for these models.

2. Reviving the grooves

3. Going through the process correctly (re-shafting and proper tooling)

4. Purchasing reliable pulled shaft models.  I imagine having to repeat lan to until I get a shaft model I love (like the old days when I was so great - or so I seem to recall).

 

 

[jaskanski]

Both the Eye2's and 845s will have .355" tip size hosel bore. The biggest issue for both is that you have no ferrule (some models of the 845s did) so shaft prep for each has to be accurate to prevent any showing above the top of the hosel. Dry fit the shaft and mark the amount of prep required for each shaft before prepping the tip area to avoid over-abrading the shaft past the top of the hosel. Make sure hosel tops are nicely chamfered to avoid shaft stress.

Ping Eye2s of various models have a notoriously sloppy fit in the hosel - shafting beads or making a temporary paper shim to centre the shaft in the hosel is the usual trick - the epoxy can be wiped clean around the hosel before drying if using shafting beads or if using the paper shim trick, trim the paper flush with the hosel top with a sharp knife once the epoxy has cured. Some back fill to tidy up the joint may be required. 

Swingweights on Eye2s can be on the low side too if using some shaft models - be prepared to use lots of tip weighting if you want them in the D0 or above range.

Regrooving is a bit of a specialist job if you want accuracy - otherwise a simple regroove tool is best, but use before shafting and before shot blasting or tumbling  the club heads to give a nice finish.

[Dr Strangelove]

You can get a (relatively) cheap tumbler and media from Harbor Freight to get back that really nice tumbled finish that the Eye 2 had.  I used it for an Eye 2 restoration that I did and I was pretty happy with the results.

Here's another idea I came across.  Note: I have NOT tried this one, but I intend to on some wedges: DIY Sandblaster $10  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6L_ArXCbYs 

[Badams69]

On 8/12/2020 at 8:27 AM, jaskanski said:

Both the Eye2's and 845s will have .355" tip size hosel bore. The biggest issue for both is that you have no ferrule (some models of the 845s did) so shaft prep for each has to be accurate to prevent any showing above the top of the hosel. Dry fit the shaft and mark the amount of prep required for each shaft before prepping the tip area to avoid over-abrading the shaft past the top of the hosel. Make sure hosel tops are nicely chamfered to avoid shaft stress.

Ping Eye2s of various models have a notoriously sloppy fit in the hosel - shafting beads or making a temporary paper shim to centre the shaft in the hosel is the usual trick - the epoxy can be wiped clean around the hosel before drying if using shafting beads or if using the paper shim trick, trim the paper flush with the hosel top with a sharp knife once the epoxy has cured. Some back fill to tidy up the joint may be required. 

Swingweights on Eye2s can be on the low side too if using some shaft models - be prepared to use lots of tip weighting if you want them in the D0 or above range.

Regrooving is a bit of a specialist job if you want accuracy - otherwise a simple regroove tool is best, but use before shafting and before shot blasting or tumbling  the club heads to give a nice finish.

Thank you - a lot to consider.  

I have decided on TT Lite XL as it seems the most cost effective playable shaft - I'm leery of pulls especially since I haven't done this previously.

I bought a 2nd SW so may do that one a couple of times to get the hang of it all first.

 

[Dr Strangelove]

You will find that the Eye 2 shafts are very difficult to pull.  Have patience.

[RI_Redneck]

2 hours ago, Dr Strangelove said:

You will find that the Eye 2 shafts are very difficult to pull.  Have patience.

IIRC, this is due to them using a metal ball to lock the shaft in the hosel. The ball diameter is just slightly more than the ID of the shaft. The ball was dropped in the hosel and then the shaft was inserted down as far as possible and then driven in the rest of the way with considerable force, forcing the shaft tip over the ball and compression locking it into place. Considerable force is usually needed to remove the shaft unless the ball is drilled out first using a long drill bit (I think Golfworks still stocks one).

BT

[jaskanski]

21 hours ago, RI_Redneck said:

IIRC, this is due to them using a metal ball to lock the shaft in the hosel. The ball diameter is just slightly more than the ID of the shaft. The ball was dropped in the hosel and then the shaft was inserted down as far as possible and then driven in the rest of the way with considerable force, forcing the shaft tip over the ball and compression locking it into place. Considerable force is usually needed to remove the shaft unless the ball is drilled out first using a long drill bit (I think Golfworks still stocks one).

BT

I pretty sure this is not the case with Eye2 irons - the Ping ball bearing is for older Anser putters where is much less hosel depth the hold a shaft securely with epoxy alone, hence their use. Ball bearings in Eye2's? I've never come across them.

[RI_Redneck]

Good to know. Couldn't for the life of me remember which clubs were involved with that practice. Thanks for clearing it up.

BT