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I am trying to reshaft my flyz+ 3 iron from cobra that I noticed was an KBS S+ when I last regripped it (vs R+ in the rest of the set).  The specs say a 0.355 shaft is used, so I bought one at golfworks and well when I pulled it, it seems to be a little loose.  So I inserted a 0.370 graphite in which fit much better, or at least like all the other reshafts I have done.  I checked the pulled shaft and it is a 0.355 and gives the same amount of play as well.  I did not see any glass beads or shims upon removing so I assume the OEM did this on purpose or the hosel bore is out of spec.  I reshafted the set GW, 3 years ago, but do not recall this issue.  Has anyone else observed this behavior before?    Since I live out in the middle of nowhere and mail takes a month or more to get things lately and no club builders within 2 hours, I am wondering if I could just use an epoxy with gap filling properties instead of a shim?  I see people also have used meshed dry wall tape with success (can anyone provide a link?), which really just seems to be a way to keep things straight versus making a stronger bond (given what the OEM did).  Glass beads and shims are out due to time it takes to get here.  Sugar seems to be a bad idea, and I have seen sand which seems too messy to me.

Note, I wanted to reshaft because I think the S+ is causing distances shorter than expected distances.

Any thoughts?

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12 minutes ago, blackyatx said:

I am trying to reshaft my flyz+ 3 iron from cobra that I noticed was an KBS S+ when I last regripped it (vs R+ in the rest of the set).  The specs say a 0.355 shaft is used, so I bought one at golfworks and well when I pulled it, it seems to be a little loose.  So I inserted a 0.370 graphite in which fit much better, or at least like all the other reshafts I have done.  I checked the pulled shaft and it is a 0.355 and gives the same amount of play as well.  I did not see any glass beads or shims upon removing so I assume the OEM did this on purpose or the hosel bore is out of spec.  I reshafted the set GW, 3 years ago, but do not recall this issue.  Has anyone else observed this behavior before?    Since I live out in the middle of nowhere and mail takes a month or more to get things lately and no club builders within 2 hours, I am wondering if I could just use an epoxy with gap filling properties instead of a shim?  I see people also have used meshed dry wall tape with success (can anyone provide a link?), which really just seems to be a way to keep things straight versus making a stronger bond (given what the OEM did).  Glass beads and shims are out due to time it takes to get here.  Sugar seems to be a bad idea, and I have seen sand which seems too messy to me.

Note, I wanted to reshaft because I think the S+ is causing distances shorter than expected distances.

Any thoughts?

Like how loose is the 0.355? It's not supposed to be a super tight fit in the hosel, otherwise there would be no room for the epoxy between the shaft and the hosel. However, it should not be super loose either. 

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Current tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 10/6/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  LAB Golf Directed Force 2.1

Current Putter Collection: LAB Golf DIrected Force 1, :cleveland-small: HB Soft Premier #11, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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I don't know how to answer "how loose" without some sort of measurement tool.   The 0.370 graphite hybrid shaft fits like all my other reshafts meaning I can stick it in and rotate it easily and the shaft stays aligned with no/minor lateral play.  There is more lateral play with the 0.355 and there is a lot with a 0.335.  I have reshafted 6 others that did not appear to have any lateral play (shaft goes noticeably crooked in the hosel).

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1 hour ago, blackyatx said:

I don't know how to answer "how loose" without some sort of measurement tool.   The 0.370 graphite hybrid shaft fits like all my other reshafts meaning I can stick it in and rotate it easily and the shaft stays aligned with no/minor lateral play.  There is more lateral play with the 0.355 and there is a lot with a 0.335.  I have reshafted 6 others that did not appear to have any lateral play (shaft goes noticeably crooked in the hosel).

Would you be able to take a quick video with your phone of how loose it is. 

The part about it going in crooked doesn't sound good.

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Current tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 10/6/2020
Driver:taylormade-small:SIM Max 10.5 - Fujikura Ventus Red 5S Velocore (the real one)
Hybrids:taylormade-small: SIM Max 3H, 4H - Matrix Ozik 85S
Irons:callaway-small:Mavrik Max 5 - AW - Nippon Neo 950GH S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2 54, CBX Full Face 58 - Nippon Modus 105 Wedge flex
Putter:  LAB Golf Directed Force 2.1

Current Putter Collection: LAB Golf DIrected Force 1, :cleveland-small: HB Soft Premier #11, :cameron-small: La Costa 1st 500, :scotty-small: Squareback 1 (2008)
 

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If you inserted a .370 and a .355 I would make sure the depth of insertion. 

If the .370 is the same use it. If not the .355, Use a shim. some folks have used a sliver of pop can or fishing line

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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