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Is this impact good or bad?


Buffly

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The image below is a typical impact for me with my wedges. 

Is that a good or bad impact location?

That was my 54* Maltby M+ Sand wedge. That swing felt good and had a good amount of forward shaft lean and a descending blow. It launched high and went about 105 yards. 

As you can see, it peels the cover off the balls pretty well. 

Any armchair advice is welcome. Again, I am looking for any and all advice without fear of scrutiny. 

IMG_20200904_193509.jpg

Golf is simple - people are complicated.

5w Taylormade SLDR S 19* - 220yd, Ping G2 5-U - 190-105, Maltby M+ 54* & MG 60* - 95-75, Evnroll ER8, Titleist 816 H1 4h 21*, Maltby 4 Hybrid Iron 24* - 210-200, Callaway XR16 8* - 235 carry

886809507_image1(5).jpeg.56bc697c3b02b1fb00feb8d4b66389bc~2.jpeg

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Different wedges have different sweet spots... higher, lower, closer to the toe, to the heel, etc... 

If feel, distance and spin are spot on, what exactly are you looking to change?

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7 hours ago, Kanoito said:

Different wedges have different sweet spots... higher, lower, closer to the toe, to the heel, etc... 

If feel, distance and spin are spot on, what exactly are you looking to change?

I feel it was a little fat when I hit it so, the strike seems a couple grooves too high. 

The club has 10* of bounce and a .900" sole width which helps keep me from digging craters. However, I feel I get better performance when I hit the club a little lower in the face. 

I can usually hit this 54* about 100 ish on the range but on the course that seems to fall to 90 ish yards which I can only attribute to the forgiveness of hitting off mats. 

Golf is simple - people are complicated.

5w Taylormade SLDR S 19* - 220yd, Ping G2 5-U - 190-105, Maltby M+ 54* & MG 60* - 95-75, Evnroll ER8, Titleist 816 H1 4h 21*, Maltby 4 Hybrid Iron 24* - 210-200, Callaway XR16 8* - 235 carry

886809507_image1(5).jpeg.56bc697c3b02b1fb00feb8d4b66389bc~2.jpeg

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The turf interaction plays into this as well. If the height of the grass on the fairways let the ball sit up you could be hitting a couple grooves higher. If the fairways are mowed tighter you could hit a few grooves lower. If you are taking a big divot you would be hitting higher on the club face and a picker would hit lower on the club face. It looks like you are making great contact from the photo and probably in the sweet spot. However since you mentioned about digging craters,  that is probably why you are hitting higher on the club face than you want. Probably need to shallow out a little. 

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The image below is a typical impact for me with my wedges. 
Is that a good or bad impact location?
That was my 54* Maltby M+ Sand wedge. That swing felt good and had a good amount of forward shaft lean and a descending blow. It launched high and went about 105 yards. 
As you can see, it peels the cover off the balls pretty well. 
Any armchair advice is welcome. Again, I am looking for any and all advice without fear of scrutiny. 
IMG_20200904_193509.jpg.7504eb930db6d5d512df32ffad2c11c1.jpg
Maybe a bit high. Might contact Britt in golfworks forum and ask what the vcog is. If contact point is below that, then well done

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17 hours ago, Buffly said:

The image below is a typical impact for me with my wedges. 

Is that a good or bad impact location?

That was my 54* Maltby M+ Sand wedge. That swing felt good and had a good amount of forward shaft lean and a descending blow. It launched high and went about 105 yards. 

As you can see, it peels the cover off the balls pretty well. 

Any armchair advice is welcome. Again, I am looking for any and all advice without fear of scrutiny. 

IMG_20200904_193509.jpg

I think you are pretty close to where you should be. That model has the optimum mass placement weighting (i.e. weight positioned toward toe area). I use to have this exact model wedge, loved it. Your angle down (AOA) plus the turf affect where on  the grooves (like 3rd groove up, 4th, etc) your strikes are, which imo affects the feel as well.

Here's a process I use when establishing a wedge pattern marking on the face. I measure or find the balance point with this : https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-club-head-cg-locator/p/gm1024/ . Helps me understand what I am feeling and where my strikes are in reference to the balance / center of the face.

With that model  Maltby wedge, if some of the ball marks are a little toward the toe but still some right in the middle of the club head then I would say that model is good for you since the optimum weight placement mass is part of the area you are striking the ball. Of course lie angle adjustments can also dial in more center face contact. But short answer I would say it looks good. 

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Was that with range balls and do you notice the same pattern with regular balls? Range balls spin a lot less off the wedges, so if the cover isn’t grabbing as quickly, I could see that causing the ball to climb a groove or two higher on the face than a normal ball would. Additionally, that lower spin is going to create “flyers” and be part distance discrepancy between range and course.

2024 is the year of the short set!

Driver: TaylorMade BRNR 11.5* stiff

Hybrid: PXG 0311 GEN5 19*

Irons: JustGolf Forged Blades (4, 6, 8, PW)

Wedge: 56* Forged Prototype

Putter: PXG Blackjack Center Shaft 34"

Bag: Sunday Golf Loma XL

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Looks fine to me. Lots of variables like mentioned above. If you really want to compare to pros, they typically hit it a few grooves lower. I myself have a very shallow impact for the most part, and struggle with a thin impact. Creates a ton of spin though. Every once in awhile I hit that one that comes out 10 feet high, but stops on the second bounce. Those can be very nervous shots in the air. 

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I gather you took a nice divot. My perfect impact would be a couple grooves lower but I do hit down on my wedges and take a decent divot.

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15 hours ago, Cory O said:

Was that with range balls and do you notice the same pattern with regular balls? Range balls spin a lot less off the wedges, so if the cover isn’t grabbing as quickly, I could see that causing the ball to climb a groove or two higher on the face than a normal ball would. Additionally, that lower spin is going to create “flyers” and be part distance discrepancy between range and course.

 

6 hours ago, Firebird said:

I gather you took a nice divot. My perfect impact would be a couple grooves lower but I do hit down on my wedges and take a decent divot.

It was range balls on the range with range mats and a descending blow that would have left a healthy divot if it was on turf. 

I hadn't thought about the ball sliding up the face on the range with range balls. I do take chunks out of non-urethane covered balls with my wedges regularly. The tour-type urethane covered balls seem to hold up better on the course. 

Another problem I have regularly is backspin being too much on full shots with my 3 most lofted wedges causing them to backspin 15+ feet turning a good shot into a bad shot. My solution is usually to club up and swing 3/4 to launch a bit lower with less spin. 

I'm not sure if it is the shaft in my wedges that creates so much spin? My 54* & 60* have the Padderson Kinetixs Graphite Wedge shaft and the Maltby Wedge heads built by Golfworks. 

If I am 70-80 yards I would hit a 3/4 54* instead of a full 60* 99% of the time because of how it reacts on the green. 90-100 yards = 3/4 Gap. 110-115 = 3/4 PW. These all drop and stop 90% of the time instead of full shots ripping back too far. 

Golf is simple - people are complicated.

5w Taylormade SLDR S 19* - 220yd, Ping G2 5-U - 190-105, Maltby M+ 54* & MG 60* - 95-75, Evnroll ER8, Titleist 816 H1 4h 21*, Maltby 4 Hybrid Iron 24* - 210-200, Callaway XR16 8* - 235 carry

886809507_image1(5).jpeg.56bc697c3b02b1fb00feb8d4b66389bc~2.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Buffly said:

 

It was range balls on the range with range mats and a descending blow that would have left a healthy divot if it was on turf. 

I hadn't thought about the ball sliding up the face on the range with range balls. I do take chunks out of non-urethane covered balls with my wedges regularly. The tour-type urethane covered balls seem to hold up better on the course. 

Another problem I have regularly is backspin being too much on full shots with my 3 most lofted wedges causing them to backspin 15+ feet turning a good shot into a bad shot. My solution is usually to club up and swing 3/4 to launch a bit lower with less spin. 

I'm not sure if it is the shaft in my wedges that creates so much spin? My 54* & 60* have the Padderson Kinetixs Graphite Wedge shaft and the Maltby Wedge heads built by Golfworks. 

If I am 70-80 yards I would hit a 3/4 54* instead of a full 60* 99% of the time because of how it reacts on the green. 90-100 yards = 3/4 Gap. 110-115 = 3/4 PW. These all drop and stop 90% of the time instead of full shots ripping back too far. 

It’s going to be almost entirely the blow you’re striking that creates that backspin. With say 12000 rpm of spin on a wedge shot (fairly high), club setup and ball choice are maybe 1500-2000 rpm of that. If you aren’t happy with the high backspin, the best thing to do is practice technique to control the bottom of the wedge swing and shallow it out so hitting at a more neutral than overly descending blow. Really this is what you’re probably doing subconsciously with those “3/4” swings, so nothing wrong with just sticking with that. Pros very rarely are taking full out rips with their wedges for the same reason.

2024 is the year of the short set!

Driver: TaylorMade BRNR 11.5* stiff

Hybrid: PXG 0311 GEN5 19*

Irons: JustGolf Forged Blades (4, 6, 8, PW)

Wedge: 56* Forged Prototype

Putter: PXG Blackjack Center Shaft 34"

Bag: Sunday Golf Loma XL

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