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Wedge Stamping


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On 11/8/2020 at 9:27 PM, Chip Strokes said:

anvil on a work bench. wedge was clamped to the anvil with vice grips (with a towel for protection)

i know what you mean about not trusting myself. i tried really driving one home on the test club head i bought. caught my thumb real flush. 

Can we see some pics of your set-up?

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I use a piece of 1/2" steel that I sanded to a flat surface, and a set of steel stamps I bought from my local Fastenal. Double sided grip tape on the steel to the wedge face, and some masking tape to cover the back of the wedge area I plan to stamp, and whammo. Stamped wedge. 

Edited by Shank Aaron
Because I cant spell....
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1973743991_Wegestamping1.jpg.2b838325aef8f257a383e0b5e95360c6.jpg96917932_Wedgestamping2.jpg.ef9f5b1bf792640a3c1f86365c28d804.jpg

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15 minutes ago, Shank Aaron said:

1973743991_Wegestamping1.jpg.2b838325aef8f257a383e0b5e95360c6.jpg96917932_Wedgestamping2.jpg.ef9f5b1bf792640a3c1f86365c28d804.jpg

I like the double sided tape idea .. def going to try that

 

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43 minutes ago, Nolan220 said:

I like the double sided tape idea .. def going to try that

 

It works really well unless you get all caveman on it and try to drive the stamp through the wedge. Then the head might lose grip and actually bounce off of your anvil. 

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2 minutes ago, Shank Aaron said:

It works really well unless you get all caveman on it and try to drive the stamp through the wedge. Then the head might lose grip and actually bounce off of your anvil. 

does the 2 sided tape work better than clamping the wedge to the anvil? 

 

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1 minute ago, Chip Strokes said:

does the 2 sided tape work better than clamping the wedge to the anvil? 

 

Nothing beats a properly built clamp, but if you don't want to spend a couple bills on one...

 

In my experiences with stamping clubs/wedges using the double sided tape has worked very well for me. Never had a mishap while doing it this way. 

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10 minutes ago, Shank Aaron said:

Nothing beats a properly built clamp, but if you don't want to spend a couple bills on one...

 

In my experiences with stamping clubs/wedges using the double sided tape has worked very well for me. Never had a mishap while doing it this way. 

gonna have to try that for next time. 

and does the masking tape keep you from mis-hitting or bouncing the stamp?

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7 minutes ago, Chip Strokes said:

gonna have to try that for next time. 

and does the masking tape keep you from mis-hitting or bouncing the stamp?

I usually do a very light tap with each stamp. Just enough to make an imprint on the tape so I can see how the letter/character will line up without making an imprint on the wedge itself. If you look at the picture I put up a little closer you'll see that the masking tape on the wedge back is actually more double sided tape with the paper backing still on. Makes the tape a little thicker and helps to keep the wedge back clean of marks until I'm ready to make the final stamp, and the imprint will also be thick enough to give you a reference point for your character to slide into once you're ready to make your marks. 

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I usually do a very light tap with each stamp. Just enough to make an imprint on the tape so I can see how the letter/character will line up without making an imprint on the wedge itself. If you look at the picture I put up a little closer you'll see that the masking tape on the wedge back is actually more double sided tape with the paper backing still on. Makes the tape a little thicker and helps to keep the wedge back clean of marks until I'm ready to make the final stamp, and the imprint will also be thick enough to give you a reference point for your character to slide into once you're ready to make your marks. 

I like the idea! I might have to try that as well!


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  • 2 weeks later...

Double sided tape is the way to go for securing the putter, make sure you have a sturdy, rigid bench. For hand stamps, check Mcmaster-Carr. They will have many different sizes, fonts, etc. I would get stamps that are rated for around 28 - 36 Rockwell C hardness so they will work with any kind of putter material.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This thread is awesome. Might be my next project. 

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This thread is awesome. Might be my next project. 

Glad you enjoy it! It’s a frustrating, but fun adventure to go on!


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I was asked via PM to take some step by step pics of how I'm stamping and post them. I said I would, and since I'm a man of my word.....scroll away. 
 

When I first started this, I got a nice straight piece of 3/8 x 4" flat stock and milled half of the bar nice and flat for an anvil. Here is how I get set up to stamp. First is the obvious vise, and once secure I throw on a piece of double sided grip tape as my "clamp".

1635477119_1Stampsetup.jpg.cc6f57b27afb751bb454c5d794f1c505.jpg

 

 

 

I press the wedge firmly into the tape and get a nice grip.

1324654235_2-2xtape.jpg.71177a167d7d16a86c24e2add666189a.jpg

 

 

Next, more double sided grip tape to cover the "working" are of the wedge I'm going to stamp. I roll this pretty good making sure it has a tight grip. I don't want the tape shifting while I stamp, I'll explain more in later steps.

1983463409_3-Wegestamping1.jpg.e823bd866312e0052c05e09936b64f05.jpg

 

Once I'm satisfied with the tape, I like to mark "no-go" areas so I don't try to stamp over, or in an existing impression/milling. 

97724610_4-no-gomarking.jpg.f90637c15615ca6739b1adf84146d6ab.jpg

 

Now for the first strike. Not a typo, I hit multiple times. The first hit is always a light tap. Just enough force for the stamp to make an impression into the tape, but no where near the force to mark the steel of the wedge. This gives me the opportunity to mess around with different stamps and patterns without doing anything permanent, however this is where you want the tape to be good and gripped on the wedge. This is definitely not the time for the stamp, or the tape to slide around. If I don't like it, tear off the tape, throw more on, and try again. As you can see, the tape has a slight depression. This is just what I want to see. 

1891871571_5-1ststrike.jpg.92b92cb79fae2503678d3c110bc36103.jpg

 

If I like the pattern then its time to make things as permanent as marriage to a lawyer. With the 1st strike I created a depression into the thick grip tape that makes it very easy for the stamp to slide right back into and self align to the original patterns I set. Make sure your stamp is straight up and down, make a firm, intentional hit to the stamp and move on to the next area. In this pic you can see the first depression at the top very clearly after hitting it more firmly a second time around. 

299309599_6-2ndstrike.jpg.d4f9968873dd1ed134d9410414ecacca.jpg

 

After I've made all of the hits I planned on, time to take the tape off. Its at this point where I can do some touch up strikes if I didn't get it hard enough while the tape was on. 

903249568_7-Finished.jpg.2f8dc5e29e6dd2d1b0b53d489c8333b4.jpg

 

There will be at least one person who reads this and has the question "how hard do I hit it?". I use a 3 pound machinists hammer, and you'll always see me making strikes with my hand gripping the neck of the hammer very close to the head. I never drive the hammer to the stamp. Instead, I let the hammer fall on the stamp and let gravity do the job. If it helps you to understand, think of it like I'm dropping the hammer on the stamp without ever letting go.

 

This isn't a strong mans process. You don't have to, and in fact, you shouldn't stamp with heavy handed strikes. There's no need for that kind of force. Hit it like you mean it, not like it owes you money and you'll be fine. I hope this helps someone who's thinking about trying this. 

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FW- Callaway UW 17*/Atmos TS X7

4H- Epic Speed Super Hybrid/Ventus Blue 8X

5-AW- Apex 21 $-Taper 120S Blackout

Spoons- Vokey Jet Black SM9 50.08 F/54.10 S/58.08 M Jet Black/DG 120 S300

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14 minutes ago, Shank Aaron said:

I was asked via PM to take some step by step pics of how I'm stamping and post them. I said I would, and since I'm a man of my word.....scroll away. 
 

When I first started this, I got a nice straight piece of 3/8 x 4" flat stock and milled half of the bar nice and flat for an anvil. Here is how I get set up to stamp. First is the obvious vise, and once secure I throw on a piece of double sided grip tape as my "clamp".

1635477119_1Stampsetup.jpg.cc6f57b27afb751bb454c5d794f1c505.jpg

 

 

 

I press the wedge firmly into the tape and get a nice grip.

1324654235_2-2xtape.jpg.71177a167d7d16a86c24e2add666189a.jpg

 

 

Next, more double sided grip tape to cover the "working" are of the wedge I'm going to stamp. I roll this pretty good making sure it has a tight grip. I don't want the tape shifting while I stamp, I'll explain more in later steps.

1983463409_3-Wegestamping1.jpg.e823bd866312e0052c05e09936b64f05.jpg

 

Once I'm satisfied with the tape, I like to mark "no-go" areas so I don't try to stamp over, or in an existing impression/milling. 

97724610_4-no-gomarking.jpg.f90637c15615ca6739b1adf84146d6ab.jpg

 

Now for the first strike. Not a typo, I hit multiple times. The first hit is always a light tap. Just enough force for the stamp to make an impression into the tape, but no where near the force to mark the steel of the wedge. This gives me the opportunity to mess around with different stamps and patterns without doing anything permanent, however this is where you want the tape to be good and gripped on the wedge. This is definitely not the time for the stamp, or the tape to slide around. If I don't like it, tear off the tape, throw more on, and try again. As you can see, the tape has a slight depression. This is just what I want to see. 

1891871571_5-1ststrike.jpg.92b92cb79fae2503678d3c110bc36103.jpg

 

If I like the pattern then its time to make things as permanent as marriage to a lawyer. With the 1st strike I created a depression into the thick grip tape that makes it very easy for the stamp to slide right back into and self align to the original patterns I set. Make sure your stamp is straight up and down, make a firm, intentional hit to the stamp and move on to the next area. In this pic you can see the first depression at the top very clearly after hitting it more firmly a second time around. 

299309599_6-2ndstrike.jpg.d4f9968873dd1ed134d9410414ecacca.jpg

 

After I've made all of the hits I planned on, time to take the tape off. Its at this point where I can do some touch up strikes if I didn't get it hard enough while the tape was on. 

903249568_7-Finished.jpg.2f8dc5e29e6dd2d1b0b53d489c8333b4.jpg

 

There will be at least one person who reads this and has the question "how hard do I hit it?". I use a 3 pound machinists hammer, and you'll always see me making strikes with my hand gripping the neck of the hammer very close to the head. I never drive the hammer to the stamp. Instead, I let the hammer fall on the stamp and let gravity do the job. If it helps you to understand, think of it like I'm dropping the hammer on the stamp without ever letting go.

 

This isn't a strong mans process. You don't have to, and in fact, you shouldn't stamp with heavy handed strikes. There's no need for that kind of force. Hit it like you mean it, not like it owes you money and you'll be fine. I hope this helps someone who's thinking about trying this. 

This was great thank you

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On 12/17/2020 at 7:00 PM, Nolan220 said:

This was great thank you

Appreciate it, hopefully it will help someone out with their project. All I need to do now is get the stamps paint filled and it'll be all done except for the build work. 

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Spoons- Vokey Jet Black SM9 50.08 F/54.10 S/58.08 M Jet Black/DG 120 S300

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1 minute ago, Shank Aaron said:

Appreciate it, hopefully it will help someone out with their project. All I need to do now is get the stamps paint filled and it'll be all done except for the build work. 

yes this will def help ... post pics when the paint is filled would love to is it .. 

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:cobra-small: Speedzone Driver Tensei AV Blue or  :ping-small: G400 SFT 10. KBS TD 50 Category 3 shaft 

:cobra-small: King Speedzone Black Yellow Fairway 3 wood Tensei AV Blue 65 

:cobra-small: F9 SpeedBack Black Grey Fairway 5 Wood   :Fuji: ATMOS Tour Spec Blue 7 shaft

:titelist-small: T300 4i-GW - Tensei AV Blue AM2 Regular Flex  or :mizuno-small: JPX 900 Hot Metal 5 - GW Project X Lz 4.5 Regular Flex Graphite 

:ping-small:   Glide 2.0 SS Wedges 54 & 58 

:taylormade-small: TP Red White Ardmore Putter - BGT Stability Tour Black shaft 

:918457628_PrecisionPro:Precision Pro NX7 range finder 

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2 minutes ago, Nolan220 said:

yes this will def help ... post pics when the paint is filled would love to is it .. 

You betcha. I'll post info for what I use to paint fill as well. Good info to have. 

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You guys have the right idea. Used to own a metal machine shop and in my opinion, the thicker the metal plate and the sturdier it is makes a world of difference. Make sure it does not give or move when hitting the stamp. Also, don't use a claw hammer, it needs to be at least a 4lb dead blow hammer. Just my thoughts.

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  • 1 year later...

Reviving this thread. Anyone try stamping based on the info here? How'd it turn out for you? Pics?

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O.B. Finder- Rogue ST 3🔹9*/Oban Kyoshi Black 65X

FW- Callaway UW 17*/Atmos TS X7

4H- Epic Speed Super Hybrid/Ventus Blue 8X

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Spoons- Vokey Jet Black SM9 50.08 F/54.10 S/58.08 M Jet Black/DG 120 S300

Flat One- Bettinardi Hive Poison Kool-Aid Innovai 6.0

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