Swing weight progression through the ''regular'' irons

[Calvo90 125]

In lockdown boredom I decided to measure swing weight of my irons since I noticed that my 8 iron is significantly lighter than my 6 iron. It turns out swing weight of my regular irons was all over the place, ranging from C9 to D4.2 with no particular pattern (like descending swingweight as the club shortens etc.). I measured swing weight a couple of times but results were the same inside 0,1 SW point. I guess that is what you get when buying second hand...

I decided that I will use my free time and redo my irons. I plan to sort swing weights of my irons with tip weights (fine tuning with lead tape) and inthe process get rid of shaft rattle in two of my irons and regrip the whole set. Lovely project if only I weren't an obssesive type. 

In the past I have built a couple of iron sets at constant swing weight through the set as my friends requested. At the time I didn't even question their decision and respected it with no second thoughts but now I am questioning if that is a good idea/it makes sense. For example, swing weight of my longer clubs is around D1 and sand wedge at D5. There is a significant gap that I think should perhaps be filled gradually in 0,5 SW points per club (D4.5 in GW, D4 in PW, D3.5 in 9I, D3 in 8I, D2.5 in 7I, D2 in 6I, D1.5 in 5I, D1 in 4I).

Has anyone done anything like this in perhaps smaller increments, perhaps in 0,3 SW points or so? I find pros and cons for both options.

 

 

[fixyurdivot 16,545]

2 hours ago, Calvo90 said:

In lockdown boredom I decided to measure swing weight of my irons since I noticed that my 8 iron is significantly lighter than my 6 iron. It turns out swing weight of my regular irons was all over the place, ranging from C9 to D4.2 with no particular pattern (like descending swingweight as the club shortens etc.). I measured swing weight a couple of times but results were the same inside 0,1 SW point. I guess that is what you get when buying second hand...

I decided that I will use my free time and redo my irons. I plan to sort swing weights of my irons with tip weights (fine tuning with lead tape) and inthe process get rid of shaft rattle in two of my irons and regrip the whole set. Lovely project if only I weren't an obssesive type. 

In the past I have built a couple of iron sets at constant swing weight through the set as my friends requested. At the time I didn't even question their decision and respected it with no second thoughts but now I am questioning if that is a good idea/it makes sense. For example, swing weight of my longer clubs is around D1 and sand wedge at D5. There is a significant gap that I think should perhaps be filled gradually in 0,5 SW points per club (D4.5 in GW, D4 in PW, D3.5 in 9I, D3 in 8I, D2.5 in 7I, D2 in 6I, D1.5 in 5I, D1 in 4I).

Has anyone done anything like this in perhaps smaller increments, perhaps in 0,3 SW points or so? I find pros and cons for both options.

 

 

I just recently measured swing weight of my gamer 7i and that of the Cobra FT's I'm experimenting with.  I used the DIY measuring and gram scale method. My G410's have the AWT 2.0 Nippon shafts that are PING's "ascending weight technology".  I only measured the 7i and it was the D2 weight on my specs.  I probably should measure the others to see what they are - trust, but verify.  A couple of our forums club gurus have mentioned that we'd all be quite surprised how many clubs built by the major OEM's are not to spec on loft, lie, and/or swing weight.

[cnosil 24,359]

2 hours ago, Calvo90 said:

In lockdown boredom I decided to measure swing weight of my irons since I noticed that my 8 iron is significantly lighter than my 6 iron. It turns out swing weight of my regular irons was all over the place, ranging from C9 to D4.2 with no particular pattern (like descending swingweight as the club shortens etc.). I measured swing weight a couple of times but results were the same inside 0,1 SW point. I guess that is what you get when buying second hand...

I decided that I will use my free time and redo my irons. I plan to sort swing weights of my irons with tip weights (fine tuning with lead tape) and inthe process get rid of shaft rattle in two of my irons and regrip the whole set. Lovely project if only I weren't an obssesive type. 

In the past I have built a couple of iron sets at constant swing weight through the set as my friends requested. At the time I didn't even question their decision and respected it with no second thoughts but now I am questioning if that is a good idea/it makes sense. For example, swing weight of my longer clubs is around D1 and sand wedge at D5. There is a significant gap that I think should perhaps be filled gradually in 0,5 SW points per club (D4.5 in GW, D4 in PW, D3.5 in 9I, D3 in 8I, D2.5 in 7I, D2 in 6I, D1.5 in 5I, D1 in 4I).

Has anyone done anything like this in perhaps smaller increments, perhaps in 0,3 SW points or so? I find pros and cons for both options.

 

 

Specs from Srixon show D2 through the set and then D3 for PW, GW.  You can search google but I linked the MGS article below that has the detailed specs. 

https://mygolfspy.com/first-look-srixons-2017-driver-iron-lineup/

 

 

[Calvo90 125]

56 minutes ago, cnosil said:

Specs from Srixon show D2 through the set and then D3 for PW, GW.  You can search google but I linked the MGS article below that has the detailed specs. 

https://mygolfspy.com/first-look-srixons-2017-driver-iron-lineup/

 

 

Thank you cnosil, I have already seen this chart.

I was just wondering whether someone plays, played or was fit in a set of irons with progressive swing weight. Considering there are shafts like DG AMT, it is possible.

At the end I will probably make my set per OEM specs.

[Urbs_Valhalla 127]

On 11/26/2020 at 7:44 AM, Calvo90 said:

In lockdown boredom I decided to measure swing weight of my irons since I noticed that my 8 iron is significantly lighter than my 6 iron. It turns out swing weight of my regular irons was all over the place, ranging from C9 to D4.2 with no particular pattern (like descending swingweight as the club shortens etc.). I measured swing weight a couple of times but results were the same inside 0,1 SW point. I guess that is what you get when buying second hand...

I decided that I will use my free time and redo my irons. I plan to sort swing weights of my irons with tip weights (fine tuning with lead tape) and inthe process get rid of shaft rattle in two of my irons and regrip the whole set. Lovely project if only I weren't an obssesive type. 

In the past I have built a couple of iron sets at constant swing weight through the set as my friends requested. At the time I didn't even question their decision and respected it with no second thoughts but now I am questioning if that is a good idea/it makes sense. For example, swing weight of my longer clubs is around D1 and sand wedge at D5. There is a significant gap that I think should perhaps be filled gradually in 0,5 SW points per club (D4.5 in GW, D4 in PW, D3.5 in 9I, D3 in 8I, D2.5 in 7I, D2 in 6I, D1.5 in 5I, D1 in 4I).

Has anyone done anything like this in perhaps smaller increments, perhaps in 0,3 SW points or so? I find pros and cons for both options.

 

 

I didn't get fit with progressive weighting but I do use different weights through my irons. My wedges and short irons being heavier than my long irons.  I feel it gives me more constant ball striking. 

[Kansas King 593]

Progressive swing weighting is normal but usually the heavier swing weights on only with the short irons. I would avoid being obsessive about swing weights because it's unlikely your going to be able to tell the difference between D1 and D2. Your current swing weight range is probably a little wide but I would recommend going out with your set and spend some time on the range determining which weight you like the most. I wouldn't strongly encourage the use of tip weights as they can mess with your clubs COG and playability. Lead tape is almost always the best way to go for performance but it doesn't always look the best. I would avoid adding too much weight to any one club as you may up the total club weight too much and hurt your performance. 

I recently took apart a set of MP68s I purchased last year and was stunned at the amount of glue in the hosel. I estimate their was a few grams worth of glue in each iron, along with the hard stepping (modus 3 120s) that may have been what made the irons feel like sledgehammers because the head weights were all close to spec. I literally had to use a drill bit up the shaft at least two inches to drill out all the glue, it was insane. Used clubs really are an absolute mystery on what you're going to get, regardless of the measurements. 

 

[Buffly 563]

On 11/26/2020 at 4:44 AM, Calvo90 said:

In lockdown boredom I decided to measure swing weight of my irons since I noticed that my 8 iron is significantly lighter than my 6 iron. It turns out swing weight of my regular irons was all over the place, ranging from C9 to D4.2 with no particular pattern (like descending swingweight as the club shortens etc.). I measured swing weight a couple of times but results were the same inside 0,1 SW point. I guess that is what you get when buying second hand...

I decided that I will use my free time and redo my irons. I plan to sort swing weights of my irons with tip weights (fine tuning with lead tape) and inthe process get rid of shaft rattle in two of my irons and regrip the whole set. Lovely project if only I weren't an obssesive type. 

In the past I have built a couple of iron sets at constant swing weight through the set as my friends requested. At the time I didn't even question their decision and respected it with no second thoughts but now I am questioning if that is a good idea/it makes sense. For example, swing weight of my longer clubs is around D1 and sand wedge at D5. There is a significant gap that I think should perhaps be filled gradually in 0,5 SW points per club (D4.5 in GW, D4 in PW, D3.5 in 9I, D3 in 8I, D2.5 in 7I, D2 in 6I, D1.5 in 5I, D1 in 4I).

Has anyone done anything like this in perhaps smaller increments, perhaps in 0,3 SW points or so? I find pros and cons for both options.

 

 

What you have is more similar to a MOI matched set it CPM matched set because the swing weights consistently decrease to the long irons. Some people pay a lot of extra money to get their clubs MOI matched. One cheap way to do it is 3/8" increments instead of 1/2" length gaps. 

If it jumped from D5 to C9 to D3 to D0 then D4 then it would be a problem. 

When all is said and done: how do you hit them? Is the lie angle correct for you? Is the length correct for you? 

[Calvo90 125]

16 hours ago, Buffly said:

What you have is more similar to a MOI matched set it CPM matched set because the swing weights consistently decrease to the long irons. Some people pay a lot of extra money to get their clubs MOI matched. One cheap way to do it is 3/8" increments instead of 1/2" length gaps. 

If it jumped from D5 to C9 to D3 to D0 then D4 then it would be a problem. 

When all is said and done: how do you hit them? Is the lie angle correct for you? Is the length correct for you? 

Thank you for your input. I don't think my irons were MOI matched or there is some higher reason for random swing weights as they are now. I think the irons were simply botched at assembly.

In the end I agree with your bottom line. It all comes down to performance and I believe there is place for improvements. Funny enough I tested all my irons this weekend to determine which swing weight I prefer. It turned out I hit (and like) 5 and 8 iron a bit better then the rest and they measured within 0.3 SW of each other so at least I have target swing weight I will try to achieve for the rest of the set. I don't expect massive changes but if I am completely honest, headworms are at work and I will not sleep until this swing weight thing is sorted. God knows what lies beneath the surface...

Iron length is spot on and I had lie angles and lofts checked about 6 months ago. I am not certain about the lie angles but since they are not far off and they better protect me from my misses, I will let them be. At least until headworms strike again...

 

[RobbyT 61]

I think at most your 4 iron should be 2 swing points lighter than your gap wedge, but you should try it that way, and then if it does not work well, just make it where the irons are all around D4.5.