robbo32 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 So I really want to get into club building. I've been doing my own grips for about two years now and I'm about to do a little caswell treatment on my scotty but I want to do more. I'd like to build a putter, reshaft an old driver and even build a set of blades once I know what I'm doing. I've got the space for it but I just need the tools. I've been looking at golfsmith and golfworks and clearly there are a lot of tools, not many of them cheap but thats ok. Some of the sites I see they have building kits but I don't know if thats a good buy or if I should buy individual tools that I need. So I'm curious which of you have been building clubs and if so what advice do you have for me. ANY advice would be appreciated. Titleist 905R 9.5* w/ RIP Beta 60x Adams 4060 16* w/ Matrix F7M2s Maltby KE4 Tour 19* w/ AXE Xcaliber Tour Hybrid TS Adams CB1 3-PW w/ KBS Tour S Hardstepped 1x Scratch 8620 DS TNC grind 53* & DS EGG grind 58* w/ Dynamic Gold S300 Ping Redwood D66 w/ KBS Tour Black Nickel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPY VIP GolfSpy Dave Posted August 31, 2011 SPY VIP Share Posted August 31, 2011 Here is a guy in Sacramento selling everything you would need to set up a shop. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/spo/2572442910.html Looks $$$ but it may be worth an email to him. Volvo Intorqueo All the cool kids follow me on twitter: @GolfspyDave If you are not a cool kid, following me on twitter will make you cool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolfSpy WD Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I built my entire set and am happy to help with advice... The only real power tool you need is a cutoff saw. I bought this from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cut-off-saw-41453.html You'll need a blade for this, I bought the one from Hireko since I got my clubs from there, but you can probably find a similar saw blade with the $8 shipping they charge. Other than that, get some 80 and 120 grain sandpaper (for steel and graphite shafts respectively). Ferrules can be banged on by forcing the ferrule slightly on the shaft, then banging the shaft + ferrule into the floor on a towel. Once the ferrule is on, use the club head to knock it the rest of the way. For epoxy, get some wood sticks for stirring. I've been told you can use sugar in place of glass beads to help center the shaft, but I haven't tried this myself. If you want to get fancy, you can get a shaft spine finding tool off ebay and build your own FLO tool using a laser pointer. @GolfSpy_WD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverickping Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 One thing you might want to consider is going here: http://www.golfworks.com/article.asp?ai=494 I took their Fitting, Assembly & Repair program and the information gained was great and a fun experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGolf Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 For small projects and low volume a vice is a must. a shaft clamp to hold the project is also a must. A cut off wheel for shaft trimming. Ferrule turning can be done by hand. However if the hobby grows consider a 1 x 42 belt for sanding shaft tips and finishing ferrules. A ruler is a must for consistency. Now if you are a picky a frequency machine is also needed. Including a loft and lie machine. That can get you established and on your way. If you are going to grind clubs then another machine will be needed Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce Putter - Makefield VS LH Ball - truvis Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD. HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBone Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I'd just like to start with, Clubmaking/clubbuilding is fun and adictive, and the projects you have laid out sound very achievable, good luck I've reshafted multiple drivers, irons, woods etc. now, built up a nice set of irons for myself and refurb'd multiple putters. Here's what I bought/have and in what I would say is a somewhat "order of importance": 1. Regripping kit (good utility knife w/ a hooked blade, shaft clamp, grip tape stripper, grip tape, solvent etc.) 2. Good ruler (48" aluminum, home depot or similar) 3. Vice 4. A set of verniers, very handy for measuring bore depths and tip diameters 5. Swingweight scale (as soon as you start building clubs you'll want to ensure consistent swingweights) 6. A digital scale (I bought mine, a nice digital one in the cooking section at a local hardware store, more than accurate enough) 7. A propane torch or good heat gun (to pull shafts) and a good pair of leather work gloves 8. Cut off saw, any saw with a metal cutting blade, work for graphite also (for trimming shaft tips/butts, hacksaw works well too though on steel) 9. Belt sander (for tip prep, but sanding by hand is just as good unless you do alot of builds) Consumables: Epoxy comes in some great small batch setups, one pack does 3-4 clubs and costs about $1, if you are just doing s a few clubs at a time. Acetone, does a great job cleaning up ferrules, much easier than turning them, removes paintfill also. A "hosel cleaning kit", some wire brushes and cotton swabs for cleaning out the bores before you reshaft/shaft the heads Miscellaneous sandpaper, emery clocth and scotchbrite. Don't bother with a "cloth" belt for the belt sander and turning ferrules unless your willing to practice, and ruin a bunch, its just as easy to hand sand the ferrules then wipe with acetone; just a personal opinion and my experience. Testors works great for touchups on paintfil. Buy ferrules, and tip weights as you need them for each build, not worth having an inventory unless you are getting into a repair shop scenario. The fit in brass tip weights are much nicer than the glue in lead ones, or pouring lead down the shaft and then corking it. If you have a compressor thats a nice way to install grips, they come off and on much easier, and unless you play in a lot of rain or humidity they stay just as good as if they were taped on. Don't waste your monet on Ralph Raltby's book Golf "GOLF CLUB DESIGN, FITTING, ALTERATION & REPAIR by Ralph Maltby", it's OLD and out of date now, unless you are working on some old clubs, like permison etc. The internet is a great resource for help with builds and refubs, especially sites like this one. A lie / loft machine is alot of money to forkout and most places will happily check the lie and loft and for a small fee and adjust as required, unless you are getting really serious its more than the average home buidler needs, but there are some good deals out there too. I'm sure I forgot some tools but thats a solid start, good luck, its easier than you might guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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