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Draw biased drivers vs working on swing


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Just did truefit online and it gave me two draw based drivers (also not low spin which I need).  I also saw a golf coach that said stay away from draw biased drivers. So what does everyone else think? Is it selling out getting a draw biased driver or should you work on your swing to not need driver help? 

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Driver: :callaway-small:   Epic Max LS with RDX Blue 70g S (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 6s 45")

2H: :callaway-small: Super Hybrid with Tensei Orange Pro Hyb 80 Stiff (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 8s Hyb)

3H: :Sub70: 939X UST proforce V2 black F5 hybrid soft stepped

4-AW: th.jpg.d6e2abdaeb04f007fd259c979f389de6.jpg  0211  with KBS Tour Stiff 2.5* up 1/4" long Unofficial Review

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Putter: TAII #2  Review here: TAIII Impact #2 Putter 

Ball: :Snell:MTB-X and :OnCore: vero X1 (Winter ball :titelist-small: proV1 )

 

 

 

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I think you need to work on the swing.  The problem with today's society is that we all look for the QUICK FIX.  We want to blame something else instead of ourselves.  Look, you are a golfer, golf is hard and takes a long time to get good.  It's not the driver that will fix any problem, it's the swing path or an open/closed face at impact.  Now, don't get me wrong, a biased driver may help a bit, but it's not the end all be all solution.  Take some lessons, hit the range and put the time in to improve.  Enjoy the process.

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   Driver:  :callaway-small: Epic Flash Sub Zero Hzdrs Smoke x flex 70g

3 Wood:  :titelist-small: 917 w/ Diamana Whiteboard stiff

5 Wood : :callaway-small: Epic Flash 18* Hzdrs Smoke stiff

4 Hybrid: :callaway-small:  Apex w/Kuro Kage stiff

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                         9-A Apex Pro 19 w/ Modus 120 X

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A few years back I bought an adjustable driver - GBB, and thought by adjusting the sliding weight it would help my slice. Nope - slice was just as bad. Today I game a 410SFT, and generally don't slice but it's because I worked on my swing. On the other hand I haven't tried a new adjustable driver to see how much of the slice elimination was due to the SFT and how much to the swing change. My sense is that the swing change made the biggest difference. 

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54 minutes ago, jlukes said:

I hear all the time - on here, from my friends, from random people I play with - that someone is working on changing there swing.  When i start asking questions about how they are going about it, I can see that is is more a hope and a prayer more than an actual plan.  Swing changes are HARD and take time.   Most amateurs do not have the time required to drastically change their swing.  Now some are capable of changing things with much less work put in than others, but those people are not the norm.

If you are TRULY going to be working on changing your swing, then yes - I would say your coach is right.  But be honest with yourself.  If changing your swing is just watching a bunch of youtube videos, going to the range a few times and hoping to see results, then no, you shouldn't stay away from draw biased driver 

 

 

This post nails especially the last paragraph.

 

Just my $.02

most golfers have a swing that results in a ball flight that goes left to right for rh golfers and vice versa for lh. The draw bias driver isn’t going to make them start automatically hitting the ball right to left. It’s going to help minimize the amount of right to left, for some it could make the pull shots they hit even worse.

This is why getting a proper fit is better than going down the rabbit hole of draw vs fade bias drivers, low vs high launch and/or spin heads and shafts. 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

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Love when the system merges two replies. 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

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I'm in the process of making a swing change and I can assure you it takes work and time to see the results pay off.  While a draw biased club may help some people with a fairly decent swing turn a slight fade into a draw, it's not going to magically turn a huge slice into a nice baby draw.  I see nothing wrong with draw biased clubs being used to help a minor issue, but don't expect such adjustments to fix fundamentally bad swings.  

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Driver: :ping-small: G400 Max 9 degree set to +1, Aldila Extreme Green 55 gram R shaft 

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Work on the swing and don’t buy the marketing crap. With 5 lessons (first time ever getting lessons) I’m hitting the ball the straightest ever, and more consistently too. The coaching has made a huge difference for me to the point where my swing actually feels comfortable! I haven’t added much distance, but I swinging easier and haven’t lost any either. My advice is invest in a local pro!


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Thanks everyone for the replies. As an aside I am doing swing work with the planemate daily and my miss with driver is two way and tends to change as the round goes on, right around the turn. I was never a fan of draw biased ( have an old burner draw that was terrible for me) yet feel my EF SZ may be hurting me more than helping. Will keep grinding on my changes and see what improvements this year brings. Hopefully a full season with a shorter shaft does me some good. 

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Driver: :callaway-small:   Epic Max LS with RDX Blue 70g S (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 6s 45")

2H: :callaway-small: Super Hybrid with Tensei Orange Pro Hyb 80 Stiff (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 8s Hyb)

3H: :Sub70: 939X UST proforce V2 black F5 hybrid soft stepped

4-AW: th.jpg.d6e2abdaeb04f007fd259c979f389de6.jpg  0211  with KBS Tour Stiff 2.5* up 1/4" long Unofficial Review

Wedges     :cleveland-small: Zipcore Tour Rack 54/full and 58/mid (review here)  (Backup 54*,60*: :ping-small:  S Tour KBS Tour Stiff 3* up)

Putter: TAII #2  Review here: TAIII Impact #2 Putter 

Ball: :Snell:MTB-X and :OnCore: vero X1 (Winter ball :titelist-small: proV1 )

 

 

 

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If you're going to go with the driver route, do your homework. TXG did a review a little bit ago looking at draw biased drivers. Some really forced a change whereas others just neutralized and minimized the slice. So even buying a driver might not be a good thing if you get a draw biased driver that focuses on bug changes when you just want a minimization to neutral. 

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I picked up a Rogue draw bias driver last year.  Before I continue I will say that I only played 45 holes last year.  While it seemed to help a bit in keeping shots straighter, I also ripped off some wicked hooks that I have NEVER done before.  I just got fitted for a new (used driver for this year as I decided the draw driver was not for me.  I’ve joined a club and plan on getting lessons with the pro (which I also have never done before). I believe that there are surely some fundamental things I am doing wrong (grip, stance, set up) that may help me. In short I think taking a little time to fix the fundamental flaws is the real first step, so I’m back to a more neutral setup. If after that, I think a little tweaking of equipment would be beneficial, then I will rethink it. 

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Why not find what you hit the best and most consistently and not worry about what it's called or labeled as?  

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If you go down the route of buying it, test it out to first to see if it has the results that you are expecting it to. Things that should theoretically help don't always play out the way you expect them to.

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I like it but not sure if it's the slice killer that they make it out to be .. I can still slice it and do once in a while on bad swing mechanics. I actually learned how to draw the ball and feel like the driver does help on some miss hits makes it an offline left to right instead of a slice. 

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4 hours ago, rbsiedsc said:

Thanks everyone for the replies. As an aside I am doing swing work with the planemate daily and my miss with driver is two way and tends to change as the round goes on, right around the turn. I was never a fan of draw biased ( have an old burner draw that was terrible for me) yet feel my EF SZ may be hurting me more than helping. Will keep grinding on my changes and see what improvements this year brings. Hopefully a full season with a shorter shaft does me some good. 

If you truly have a 2 way miss, then why look into a draw bias? Your misses left will be even worse? 

I would say that you may be better served by a better fitted shaft which can help stabilize the head to get a more consistent impact and miss.

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Just now, The 19th Hole said:

If you truly have a 2 way miss, then why look into a draw bias? Your misses left will be even worse? 

I would say that you may be better served by a better fitted shaft which can help stabilize the head to get a more consistent impact and miss.

That is also part of the search 🙂 Experimented with a Fuji pro TS 7X at 44.5" and helped my misses but distance was down. Now testing a Tensei Pro Orange 6S tipped 1" at 44.75" to see if that helps. First time out was rough but with more practice will see how it looks.

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Driver: :callaway-small:   Epic Max LS with RDX Blue 70g S (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 6s 45")

2H: :callaway-small: Super Hybrid with Tensei Orange Pro Hyb 80 Stiff (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 8s Hyb)

3H: :Sub70: 939X UST proforce V2 black F5 hybrid soft stepped

4-AW: th.jpg.d6e2abdaeb04f007fd259c979f389de6.jpg  0211  with KBS Tour Stiff 2.5* up 1/4" long Unofficial Review

Wedges     :cleveland-small: Zipcore Tour Rack 54/full and 58/mid (review here)  (Backup 54*,60*: :ping-small:  S Tour KBS Tour Stiff 3* up)

Putter: TAII #2  Review here: TAIII Impact #2 Putter 

Ball: :Snell:MTB-X and :OnCore: vero X1 (Winter ball :titelist-small: proV1 )

 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, rbsiedsc said:

That is also part of the search 🙂 Experimented with a Fuji pro TS 7X at 44.5" and helped my misses but distance was down. Now testing a Tensei Pro Orange 6S tipped 1" at 44.75" to see if that helps. First time out was rough but with more practice will see how it looks.

I also think @The 19th Hole has a point I bought the PING SFT because I got a really good deal on it and bought it with out getting fitted so I ended up getting fitted for a new shaft and it definitely made a difference. 

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Unless you predominantly strike it between the heel and center of face, I would avoid a draw biased head. They shift the CG toward the heel and makes toe side misses hook more and you can start hitting ducks that drop out of the air with no spin. 

A lot of comments about swing fixes on here... Each player will have a tendency for a left or right swing path which is better than trying to hit 0 degrees or straight and then have misses to each side. Is switching from a fade to a draw or vice versa going to make you a better player? A draw head is for someone who's pattern is out to in with a heel bias and they want the ball to cut less. These heads don't magically eliminate slices, they just bias the ball to the left (for righties). Meaningful swing changes takes 5000+ reps to engrain, with deliberate focus on the new motion as opposed to 5000 7 irons at the range to the same flag. Not everyone has the time, effort, or interest level for that commitment which is why this product is created; to play better with your current or similar swing. 

I would personally avoid draw heads, they are generally less forgiving and adjustable than their neutral flight counterparts. Between adjustable weights and hosels, you can tune a neutral driver to adequate fade bias that can be dialled back as needed. 

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19 minutes ago, BMart519 said:

Unless you predominantly strike it between the heel and center of face, I would avoid a draw biased head. They shift the CG toward the heel and makes toe side misses hook more and you can start hitting ducks that drop out of the air with no spin. 

A lot of comments about swing fixes on here... Each player will have a tendency for a left or right swing path which is better than trying to hit 0 degrees or straight and then have misses to each side. Is switching from a fade to a draw or vice versa going to make you a better player? A draw head is for someone who's pattern is out to in with a heel bias and they want the ball to cut less. These heads don't magically eliminate slices, they just bias the ball to the left (for righties). Meaningful swing changes takes 5000+ reps to engrain, with deliberate focus on the new motion as opposed to 5000 7 irons at the range to the same flag. Not everyone has the time, effort, or interest level for that commitment which is why this product is created; to play better with your current or similar swing. 

I would personally avoid draw heads, they are generally less forgiving and adjustable than their neutral flight counterparts. Between adjustable weights and hosels, you can tune a neutral driver to adequate fade bias that can be dialled back as needed. 

To answer your question,  my miss is between heel and center. After talking with others, likely due to a casting move in my swing along with being OTT. So if I do 200 days at 30 reps a day, I should be able to engrain. Although that doesn't count the 100s of swings ill make on the course that may not be ideal. Thanks for the perspective. My EF SZ is adjustable so I will be tinkering with that setup

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Driver: :callaway-small:   Epic Max LS with RDX Blue 70g S (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 6s 45")

2H: :callaway-small: Super Hybrid with Tensei Orange Pro Hyb 80 Stiff (Testing Ventus Velocore Blue 8s Hyb)

3H: :Sub70: 939X UST proforce V2 black F5 hybrid soft stepped

4-AW: th.jpg.d6e2abdaeb04f007fd259c979f389de6.jpg  0211  with KBS Tour Stiff 2.5* up 1/4" long Unofficial Review

Wedges     :cleveland-small: Zipcore Tour Rack 54/full and 58/mid (review here)  (Backup 54*,60*: :ping-small:  S Tour KBS Tour Stiff 3* up)

Putter: TAII #2  Review here: TAIII Impact #2 Putter 

Ball: :Snell:MTB-X and :OnCore: vero X1 (Winter ball :titelist-small: proV1 )

 

 

 

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