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I would like to have the members to share their actual experience and insight for re-shafting the P-970 irons.

One of the guys broke his 5 iron trying to imitate Tiger hitting from under a tree.  I had never re-shafted one of these in the past and upon research it tapered to need 0.355 for replacing TTDG X-100.  There is the unfamiliar injection of polyurethane in the cavity of the head, plus there might be the "bullet" tip weight in the hosel which will require a lot of heat to have it removed.

Right away, sorting out the polyurethane does not like a lot of heat, but the tip weight might require a lot of heat to be removed.  I had dealt with other stuff in the past but not with an iron which has face injection of poly urethane in the cavity.  I had advised the guy to send it back to TM since they might have a replacement head handy if they damage the head during the process of removing the broken shaft and the tip weight.   However, the long waiting time to get this done and the cost involved with OEM charges plus the shipping cost made him to think twice. 

Unfortunately, since it was not a manufacturer's defect, he might have to pay for the re-shafting even the set is fairly new ( like within months of delivering directly from the OEM ).

Especially a shout out to Jim at McGolf.  

I know all the basic of applying cooling gel, or wet towel to the head while heating up the hosel to extract the broken shaft but, unfamiliar with the extra heat required for removing the bullet tip weight, while dealing with the injected polyurethane in the head cavity. .  Someone had recommended submerging the head in a shallow pool of water while heating up the hosel...... that sounds interesting but, I had never used that method personally.

Any advise from actual experience will be greatly appreciated.  Welcome tips on what Not to do .

Thanks.

 

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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4 hours ago, McGolf said:

 

Hi Jim,  Thanks for the reply and the link.  I had seen that one as I subscribed to your YouTube.

The question is not how to build one, the issue lies of how to extract the broken shaft and the "bullet" tip weight without risking any damage to the injected "speed form" in the cavity of the head.

Polyurethane  does not like heat, even with care of heating up the hosel, the heat will transfer ( by conduction ) from the hosel to the head even long after the source of heat is terminated.

I understand the removal of the bullet tip weight needs lots of heat, and more heat, plus perhaps banging the hosel on a 2x4 to shake the weight loose.

Normal shaft extraction will not worry me that much, but to heat overtime for the tip weight is the part that worried me.  Any idea ?

I still wish to know the answer.  However, TaylorMade had just responded and they will repair the shaft under warranty, even the damage was caused accidentally during the play.   

Still curious of dealing with the speed form in the head cavity.  

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If you mean by "bullet weight" a smaller tip weight for the shaft. It takes a bit more work and a little more heat. There are two methods I use.

1) heat the hosel out and in much like a shaft extraction, clean out the hosel as much as you can, use an AWL to move the weight around and loosen the weight from the hosel. tap it out, this is shown in the video below.

2) most of the tip weights are either lead or brass. Mostly brass to stay away from handling lead. after applying heat  in the same manner as described above. use a small drill bit to start a pilot hole in the tip weight. Then move to a larger bit. It is here where the bit typically bites and grabs the weight and simply pull it out. You are making heat with the drill bit to also help loosen the weight from the hosel. You may have to use 3 bits but usually only 2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKA6_QSAQBM 

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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8 hours ago, McGolf said:

If you mean by "bullet weight" a smaller tip weight for the shaft. It takes a bit more work and a little more heat. There are two methods I use.

1) heat the hosel out and in much like a shaft extraction, clean out the hosel as much as you can, use an AWL to move the weight around and loosen the weight from the hosel. tap it out, this is shown in the video below.

2) most of the tip weights are either lead or brass. Mostly brass to stay away from handling lead. after applying heat  in the same manner as described above. use a small drill bit to start a pilot hole in the tip weight. Then move to a larger bit. It is here where the bit typically bites and grabs the weight and simply pull it out. You are making heat with the drill bit to also help loosen the weight from the hosel. You may have to use 3 bits but usually only 2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKA6_QSAQBM

Thank you Jim.  Exactly what I was looking for.  Better to confirm with someone who knows what he is doing than trying to figure it out and possibly cause damage.  I don't carry error and omission insurance to cover the accidental breakage. 

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On 5/12/2021 at 6:40 PM, McGolf said:

 

These video's are awesome. Would have loved to see more time spent on the tip weights, why you chose that weight, how to install them, etc. I thought Pure grips were supposed to be installed with air, why did you use tape & solvent? 

Driver: :cobra-small: Speed Zone 9* HZRDUS Smoke Yellow Shaft

3 Wood: :cobra-small: King Speedzone 13.5* HZRDUS Smoke Black Shaft

2 & 3 Hybrids: :cobra-small: Speedzone Recoil 480 ESX Shaft

Irons: :cobra-small: Speedzone 5-GW Recoil 460 ESX Shafts

Wedges: :cobra-small: MIM 54* Versatile/60* Widelow

Putter: :odyssey-small: Dual Force Rossi II

Ball: Whatever I find in the woods

:Arccos:

HCP:18

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thanks for the compliment, tip weight selection is really determined by the shaft that is used for the build. Pure grips are easily installed with air but I am an old schooler and it works the same

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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