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Pull current shafts for Maltby Heads?


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Thinking WAY in advance here, but I am curious if there is a way I can tell if my current shafts would be usable in a set of Maltby iron heads.

I have Nike VR-S Forged irons. I cant seem to find a hosel bore depth listed online anywhere.

(Should also mention I've never pulled or installed shafts, but I dont see why I couldnt learn)

Tiger is the GOAT, change my mind.

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Shouldn't be a problem.  The Maltby forged heads have a universal hosel bore that accepts both .370 parallel and .355 taper shafts.  Your Nikes are .355.  You will need to get the Golfworks recommended ferrule for the iron you select.  Since the shafts are steel, it doesn't take a special shaft puller needed for graphite shafts.  

The only issue I can see might be a difference in head weight between your Nikes and the Maltbys.  It could change the swingweight.  Check with the people at Golfworks; they should be able to help with that.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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Thanks for the response @Kenny B

Maltby lists the Nike VR-S Forged 6i head at 257g and the TS-1 6i head at 259g

I think my concern was hosel depth... how far the shaft seats inside the club. The TS-1 looks like it is 1.375" (assuming I am looking at the right measurement)

I cant seem to find it listed for the Nike.

http://ralphmaltby.com/mpf/nike/page/2/

Tiger is the GOAT, change my mind.

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Hosel depths are relatively the same across the board save bore thrus and some cobra models.  Kenny gave some good advice in numbers and where to good for parts.

as far pulling a shaft here ya go

 

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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23 hours ago, McGolf said:

Hosel depths are relatively the same across the board save bore thrus and some cobra models.  Kenny gave some good advice in numbers and where to good for parts.

as far pulling a shaft here ya go

 

Dude, wonderful video! Thanks for filming and sharing! 

Tiger is the GOAT, change my mind.

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On 8/19/2021 at 7:46 AM, KurtActual said:

Thanks for the response @Kenny B

Maltby lists the Nike VR-S Forged 6i head at 257g and the TS-1 6i head at 259g

I think my concern was hosel depth... how far the shaft seats inside the club. The TS-1 looks like it is 1.375" (assuming I am looking at the right measurement)

I cant seem to find it listed for the Nike.

http://ralphmaltby.com/mpf/nike/page/2/

What you really need to know is the bottom bore to ground measurement (BBTG) which will tell you how long your irons will play with the new heads.  If the BBTG is a larger number in your new heads, then your clubs will play slightly longer and can be butt trimmed to length.  If the BBTG is less in your new heads, the irons will play shorter than your current set and you would need to add an extension to get them to the proper length.  

Unfortunately, there is no good resource for finding the BBTG measurements of different clubs.  You pretty much need to have both loose heads in hand to figure it out which is past the point you want to get to before deciding what you want to do.  

If you know the hosel insertion depth of your current irons you can determine the BBTG by measuring the overall club length and then subtracting the visible shaft length and then subtracting the insertion depth.  I'm sure golfworks could tell you the BBTG measurement of the Maltby's if you emailed or called them.

 

As an example, I picked up a set of Z355 heads to build.  They have an insertion depth of 1 1/4".  I also picked up a set of shafts from a newer set of Srixon Z585 or ZX4 irons (not sure which) and those clubs had an insertion depth of 1" based on where the ferrules were set.  Once I removed the ferrules and fully insert the shafts into my Z355 heads, the clubs play the same stock lengths as the 585 irons because the BBTG of the Z355 is less than in the 585 irons.  

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The more I think about it, the more I lean towards just having GolfWorks build a set of TS-1s. My grips are wearing, I'd need ferrules, epoxy, and a torch. 

My current set is only 5-PW, so a set from GW adds a 4 and GW.

Thanks for all the feedback gents!

Tiger is the GOAT, change my mind.

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3 hours ago, KurtActual said:

The more I think about it, the more I lean towards just having GolfWorks build a set of TS-1s. My grips are wearing, I'd need ferrules, epoxy, and a torch. 

My current set is only 5-PW, so a set from GW adds a 4 and GW.

Thanks for all the feedback gents!

Good luck! Pulling and replacing shafts isn't necessarily hard but can be a bit of a pain and sometimes it's easier to just let the pros do it, especially if you don't already have the equipment to do it. The right tools make it rather easy but trying to do everything with just a vice and torch can be straight up messy. You have to make sure the shaft and hosels are properly clean then you have to have the discipline to not put entirely too much epoxy on the shaft when installing. Then you will have to pull a head back off when you inevitably forget to put a ferrule on and the black epoxy goes absolutely everywhere. Just a royal mess. I wouldn't discourage anyone from doing it but it's just one of those things that is going to be harder than it has to be if you don't have the right tools and it will take longer than you imagine.

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On 8/26/2021 at 8:33 AM, KurtActual said:

I lean towards just having GolfWorks build a set of TS-1s

I've dabbled enough with shaft pulling and have built a number of single clubs like a wedge here and a shaft swap there. That said, if it's not going to break the bank to have GW build you a set, go that route! Also, a queue from the 1 mistake I made when I had my TS-1s built is I totally forgot to have them built with the logo down. Now I've got my entire set with Dynamic gold 105 staring me in the face at each shot. It's not a sticker either. It's like a screen printed decal so it won't just peel off. Definitely a 1st world problem so I'm not too sore about it. 

Either way, good luck with the project and don't forget to post here 😄

 

 

 

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