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Have Modern Iron Lofts Put FIVE Wedges In Your Bag?


BostonSal

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It seems that if I wanted to use a classic 52-56-60 matched wedge set,

I'd need, with many of the newer iron sets,  both the matching PW and  GW to get to it.

Not a problem for me, but longer players need more longer clubs above the 5-iron than I do.   

Do you go with five wedges,

gap your wedges wider,

or adopt another solution?

What's the current trend?

 

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

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You basically need 2 gap wedges with modern irons lofts.  Thats one of the many reasons why I reject modern iron lofts and instead play older irons.  Especially if you are playing expensive wedges like Vokeys, you are basically looking at spending $500+ just on wedges.  To me, thats just crazy.

"I suppose its better to be a master of 7 than to be vaguely familiar with 14." - Chick Evans

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Woods: Tommy Armour Atomic 10.5* 

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 3H

Irons: Mizuno T-Zoid True 5, 7 and 9-irons

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It really doesn't matter what the lofts or number on any club is.   Hit your longest and shortest club.  Usually driver and a sand/lob wedge.   Then fit clubs in between that have about a 15 yard gap.  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
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1 hour ago, ZenGolfer said:

You basically need 2 gap wedges with modern irons lofts.  Thats one of the many reasons why I reject modern iron lofts and instead play older irons.  Especially if you are playing expensive wedges like Vokeys, you are basically looking at spending $500+ just on wedges.  To me, thats just crazy.

Wedge is cheaper than a hybrid or fairway. Two wedges are cheaper than fairways and some hybrids

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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14 hours ago, cnosil said:

It really doesn't matter what the lofts or number on any club is.   Hit your longest and shortest club.  Usually driver and a sand/lob wedge.   Then fit clubs in between that have about a 15 yard gap.  

That's the most popular, and for most people, probably the most logical way to configure a set--- but not the only way.

I choose every club that I want for specific shots, and then, with whatever number of slots are left, I fill in as best I can.

I'm going to include clubs that I particularly like whether they fit into a linear distance progression or not.  I'm not recommending it, but that's what I like to do.

 

But we're not talking about lofts and numbers, per se.   Wedges don't often have numbers other than their lofts or a letter designation.  

We're talking about if your nine iron is less that forty degrees, how many wedges do you need?

Just a curiosity thing, because if you buy irons in "sets" like many people do, you may need both the matching PW and GW PLUS three add-on wedges.

Custom ordered clubs can be bought one at a time, of course.

 

If one simply assumes linear loft progression or linear distance progression, then yes, how many wedges you bag doesn't matter, of course.  I was merely curious as to how many clubs people are bagging that are designated as wedges.

 

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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5 wedges?  Well, yes and no.  My club that is stamped with PW is a 9 iron 20 years ago, or an 8 iron 60 years ago.  I then have a 48 degree gap wedge, or PW 20 years ago, then a 54 degree sand wedge and then a 58 degree sand/lob wedge and then a 62 degree lob wedge.  60 years ago, I would have had 42, 46, 50 and 55 degree clubs; or even 44, 48 and 52 degree clubs plus the sand wedge.  The 2 lob wedges are just my own craziness.  If you want to play traditional lofts, just forget the number on the club and build a set that stops at 55 or 56 degrees.  People go nuts about strengthened lofts, but if you think of your 7 iron as a 5 iron, then it's not a problem.

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Callaway 2023 Big Bertha 3 wood set to 17 degrees

Cobra F9 Speedback 7/8 wood set at 23.5 degrees

Callaway Epic Max 11 wood

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Mizuno 923 JPX HM HL 6-GW

Hogan sand wedge 56 degree bent to 53

Maltby M Series+ 54 degree

Ping Glide 3.0 Eye2 58 degree

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Evnroll ER2

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10 minutes ago, Hook DeLoft said:

5 wedges?  Well, yes and no.  My club that is stamped with PW is a 9 iron 20 years ago, or an 8 iron 60 years ago.  I then have a 48 degree gap wedge, or PW 20 years ago, then a 54 degree sand wedge and then a 58 degree sand/lob wedge and then a 62 degree lob wedge.  60 years ago, I would have had 42, 46, 50 and 55 degree clubs; or even 44, 48 and 52 degree clubs plus the sand wedge.  The 2 lob wedges are just my own craziness.  If you want to play traditional lofts, just forget the number on the club and build a set that stops at 55 or 56 degrees.  People go nuts about strengthened lofts, but if you think of your 7 iron as a 5 iron, then it's not a problem.

That's basically true, Hook, but forgetting the number stamping, the length / loft correlation is also changed.

 

I figured out how to set up my bottom end.

The Titleist T100 9-iron is 42° and the PW is 46°

The Titleist T100S gap wedge is 48°.

If you choose the T100S gap wedge INSTEAD of the T100 pitching wedge when you order,

you can go with just three wedges with 6° gaps from 9-iron to lob wedge. [ 42, 48, 54, 60°] 

That's how I did it to make room for a tee-shot-only driving iron.

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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27 minutes ago, BostonSal said:

That's the most popular, and for most people, probably the most logical way to configure a set--- but not the only way.

I choose every club that I want for specific shots, and then, with whatever number of slots are left, I fill in as best I can.

I'm going to include clubs that I particularly like whether they fit into a linear distance progression or not.  I'm not recommending it, but that's what I like to do.

 

But we're not talking about lofts and numbers, per se.   Wedges don't often have numbers other than their lofts or a letter designation.  

We're talking about if your nine iron is less that forty degrees, how many wedges do you need?

Just a curiosity thing, because if you buy irons in "sets" like many people do, you may need both the matching PW and GW PLUS three add-on wedges.

Custom ordered clubs can be bought one at a time, of course.

 

If one simply assumes linear loft progression or linear distance progression, then yes, how many wedges you bag doesn't matter, of course.  I was merely curious as to how many clubs people are bagging that are designated as wedges.

 

While you say it is the most popular, I would say it isn’t what most people do as they just buy a set of clubs.   I know people that build sets like you described; they typically play one or two courses and build the set to play the shots they need.  That approach could potentially leave distance gaps or a clubs that is not frequently used because it is so specialized; such as a club used only for flop,shots. Not wrong just one way to approach building a set.  
 

Currently Most manufacturers sets are simply a specific number of clubs and not a something that starts at a particular number.    Really not different than “traditional” lofts where it stated at a 3 iron and players added a 2 or 1 iron as add-ons.  
 

in my current setup I have a PW, GW, SW, and a LW.  I could drop the LW and play just the SW.   So even with “modern” lofts I could effectively play 3 wedges.  Back when I started in the late 70s I had a PW and SW.  I could potentially build a set of clubs that is hybrids and 7 wedges with no “irons” but why does the number odiferous wedges really matter?  If anything, it is better in the current marketplace because wedges have different grinds and bounces that make then more effective unless the player chooses to take a grinder to their traditional lofted set.  
 

we continually get into discussions about club lofts and at the end of the day what does it matter?  Pick the clubs that let you play golf the way you want. 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
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8 minutes ago, cnosil said:

While you say it is the most popular, I would say it isn’t what most people do as they just buy a set of clubs.   I know people that build sets like you described; they typically play one or two courses and build the set to play the shots they need.  That approach could potentially leave distance gaps or a clubs that is not frequently used because it is so specialized; such as a club used only for flop,shots. Not wrong just one way to approach building a set.  
 

Currently Most manufacturers sets are simply a specific number of clubs and not a something that starts at a particular number.    Really not different than “traditional” lofts where it stated at a 3 iron and players added a 2 or 1 iron as add-ons.  
 

in my current setup I have a PW, GW, SW, and a LW.  I could drop the LW and play just the SW.   So even with “modern” lofts I could effectively play 3 wedges.  Back when I started in the late 70s I had a PW and SW.  I could potentially build a set of clubs that is hybrids and 7 wedges with no “irons” but why does the number odiferous wedges really matter?  If anything, it is better in the current marketplace because wedges have different grinds and bounces that make then more effective unless the player chooses to take a grinder to their traditional lofted set.  
 

we continually get into discussions about club lofts and at the end of the day what does it matter?  Pick the clubs that let you play golf the way you want. 

csnil makes an excellent point about set composition.

I do play almost all of my rounds on the same track and club accordingly.

I wasn't making any comments on modern lofts, but was merely curious about how many wedges people tend to play with the modern lofts.

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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I got the T200 from Titleist, for a MGS review.  Those have strong lofts, but came with two wedges in the set, 43 and 48 degrees.  These took the place of my previous PW and 9-iron.  My irons now stop at 5-iron, rather than 4 previously.  I have the same number of irons (including 3 "specialty" wedges and 2 wedges in the set) as I did before, its just that 5 of them are now labelled as "wedge".  I really don't care.

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:callaway-small:Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X

:mizuno-small: T22 54 and 58 wedges

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:Sub70: 5-wood

 B60 G5i putter

Right handed

Reston, Virginia

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Just wait until you have 9 wedges and few or no irons with stamped numbers. If the current trend continues that's what you'll find offered. 2 and 3 irons have all but disappeared but you can still buy irons with similar lofts - that's nonsense. Manufacturers, driven by naive customers, have rendered the numbers stamped on the bottom of irons almost meaningless. There was no reason they couldn't have kept the iron # vs loft correlation as it was, but that's been debated endlessly here already.

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10 minutes ago, Middler said:

Just wait until you have 9 wedges and few or no irons with stamped numbers. If the current trend continues that's what you'll find offered. 2 and 3 irons have all but disappeared but you can still buy irons with similar lofts. Manufacturers, driven by naive customers, have rendered the numbers stamped on the bottom of irons almost meaningless. There was no reason they couldn't have kept the iron # vs loft correlation as it was, but that's been debated endlessly here already.

I've got no argument for that at all, but it sets some people off when it's brought up.

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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4 minutes ago, BostonSal said:

I've got no argument for that at all, but it sets some people off when it's brought up.

I does and all for something that doesn’t really matter.  Whenever club lofts are talked  about; and this thread is about club lofts,  there is a divide.  That is generally why the threads get closed and people get warnings about what they post.  Even what people call “traditional” lofts are stronger lofted than the clubs that proceeded them.  I will be a never ending debate and in my opinion any thread that goes down the loft debate should be closed.  

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1 hour ago, cnosil said:

While you say it is the most popular, I would say it isn’t what most people do as they just buy a set of clubs.   I know people that build sets like you described; they typically play one or two courses and build the set to play the shots they need.  That approach could potentially leave distance gaps or a clubs that is not frequently used because it is so specialized; such as a club used only for flop,shots. Not wrong just one way to approach building a set.  

Nailed it. Outside of some avid golfers there are not at the driving range I go to or have been randomly paired with or even in the long time group of former coworkers I play with that have setup their bag using something other than buying a full set of irons. Using a 5 hybrid to replace a 5i, same for a 4 or 6. They buy 3w because that’s how it’s always been. They play same wedge lofts they did 20 years ago regardless of what their pw loft is. Most play the same course every week or rotate between a few near their house. 

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

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1 hour ago, cnosil said:

I does and all for something that doesn’t really matter.  Whenever club lofts are talked  about; and this thread is about club lofts,  there is a divide.  That is generally why the threads get closed and people get warnings about what they post.  Even what people call “traditional” lofts are stronger lofted than the clubs that proceeded them.  I will be a never ending debate and in my opinion any thread that goes down the loft debate should be closed.  

The strong lofts are here to stay, and only the oldest players among us remember 32º 5-irons like I do.

But the post wasn't to complain about the modern club number/loft  correlations or the modern length /loft correlations.

It was merely a curious inquiry as to how many wedges people play with the modern lofts.

 

Yes, Middler and I liked the weaker lofts in terms of how they affected putting together a set,

but that's not to say that I would want to impose older standards on a generation of younger players who don't care about them.

 

I will admit that I don't understand how little patience some pre-retirement age players have for our even bringing it up.

 

In any case, it's really not something to fight about or get angry about.

We'll all be dead soon, and you won't have to put up with our reminiscing!

I play with the modern lofts just like you do.  No super problem.

 

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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I have Srixon ZX565s and bought 3i to AW. Over the last 15 years I migrated to using 3 matching wedges 52,56, and 60 with a 3i-PW. With my recent irons I found it was more the the  lighter Nippon 850 shafts that was giving me 5-10 yds extra distance 5i to AW. Original my thoughts were to drop the 52 but with the extra yardage on the std set I carry PW, AW, 52, 56 and 60. The issue I have found is that the shafts seem optimised for 5i to PW. I hit my 5i => 180yds, 4i => 180 yds and 3i => 183yds. The 4i and 3i are now in the garage replace with Epic 3h and 4h. The 60' tends to get swapped out depending on course conditions with the 3h i.e fast greens and fairways usually means the 60' is in my bag and vice versa for the 3h. 

WIMB

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3W Callaway Epic 15' Fujikura Stiff

3-AW Srixon Z565 Nippon Stiff

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On 9/30/2021 at 10:55 AM, Hook DeLoft said:

5 wedges?  Well, yes and no.  My club that is stamped with PW is a 9 iron 20 years ago, or an 8 iron 60 years ago.  I then have a 48 degree gap wedge, or PW 20 years ago, then a 54 degree sand wedge and then a 58 degree sand/lob wedge and then a 62 degree lob wedge.  60 years ago, I would have had 42, 46, 50 and 55 degree clubs; or even 44, 48 and 52 degree clubs plus the sand wedge.  The 2 lob wedges are just my own craziness.  If you want to play traditional lofts, just forget the number on the club and build a set that stops at 55 or 56 degrees.  People go nuts about strengthened lofts, but if you think of your 7 iron as a 5 iron, then it's not a problem.

Yup, lofts are stronger and shafts are longer.  They just have the wrong numbers / letters on the bottom!  

------------------------------

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Fairway: Titleist TS2 16.5 and 21 - Evenflow Riptide CB R

Irons: Titleist U505 4U and T300 5-GW - Aerotech SteelFiber i80 R

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On 9/30/2021 at 2:13 PM, BostonSal said:

Yes, Middler and I liked the weaker lofts in terms of how they affected putting together a set, but that's not to say that I would want to impose older standards on a generation of younger players who don't care about them.

I'd agree except where does it stop, when a 9 iron has a 21º loft and the rest of the irons are wedges? So far 2 and 3 irons have been all but eliminated, some iron sets start at 5 now...

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1 hour ago, Middler said:

I'd agree except where does it stop, when a 9 iron has a 21º loft and the rest of the irons are wedges? So far 2 and 3 irons have been all but eliminated, some iron sets start at 5 now...

When I got fitted in the spring, I started my iron set at a 6 iron.  My 5 is a hybrid now.  For wedges, I have the set PW.  I have Cleveland CBX2 52 and 58 degree wedges for my GW and SW.  I’ve wondered about adding a forth wedge between my PW and the 52 as the set PW is 43 degrees, but in the end, I carry my PW 115 yards and my 52 103 yards.  Personally, I think the iron numbers should be replaced with lofts only, but it will never happen because too many people have egos. 

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2 hours ago, Middler said:

I'd agree except where does it stop, when a 9 iron has a 21º loft and the rest of the irons are wedges? So far 2 and 3 irons have been all but eliminated, some iron sets start at 5 now...

Part of the problem is that seniors like myself tend to be neither tech savvy nor big spenders.

That's not me, but it's almost ALL of my friends.

Seniors in particular, due to our slower swing speeds, would benefit from wider gapped irons sets.

Manufacturers know this, but they also know that they won't sell many if they make them because seniors don't keep track of tech and are slow to spend four grand on a new set of clubs because they remember when a good set cost four hundred.

Just for the sake of an exercise, consider the following.

5-iron,   27º, 38¼" [extra quarter inch for smaller loft gap--could even go three-eighths]

6-iron,   30º, 37½"

7-iron,   35°, 37"

8-iron,   40°, 36½"

9-iron,   45º, 36"

PW,         50°, 35½"

These are the gaps that would work best for most slower swinging senior players, and the manufacturers know it.

But why make it if you're not going to be able to sell it?

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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^^^ That’ll never happen, when you can now buy a “7” iron with a 27* loft. No senior is going to accept a 7 iron with a 35* loft anymore - even though that’s pretty close to traditional lofts, and what todays tour blades still are. All most players ultimately care about is saying I hit my new “7” iron 10-20 yards further than my old one. I see seniors who are kidding themselves about how far they hit there new shovel MAX irons, most oblivious to how lofts have changed for GI/SGI irons. They really think they’re hitting it farther…

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1 minute ago, Middler said:

^^^ That’ll never happen, when you can now buy a “7” iron with a 27* loft. No senior is going to accept a 7 iron with a 35* loft anymore - even though that’s pretty close to traditional lofts, and what todays tour blades still are. All most players ultimately care about is saying I hit my new “7” iron 10-20 yards further than my old one…

True enough, but the fault lies with the unsophisticated consumer, not the manufacturer.

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Loft is more important to me than the club name. Ben Hogan did it right several years ago when they loft was stamped on the club instead of 9, 8, etc. But they did not carry on with this as the public did not identify with a 150 yard shot needing the 42 degree instead of a 9 iron.

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4 minutes ago, Titleist87 said:

Loft is more important to me than the club name. Ben Hogan did it right several years ago when they loft was stamped on the club instead of 9, 8, etc. But they did not carry on with this as the public did not identify with a 150 yard shot needing the 42 degree instead of a 9 iron.

I fully agree.  Hogan had a great idea, but consumers didn't agree.

To survive, manufacturers have to make what consumers will buy.

I have in my mind the perfect set for me, but nobody is ever going to offer it because I may be the only one who would buy it.

MANY seniors, ladies, and juniors would benefit from such a set, but FEW would buy it.

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The traditional loft comments always make me laugh. Most use it in terms of today’s irons compared when they first started playing. A 35* 7 iron is a strong lofted 7i compared to the 80s and even stronger when you compare it to the 60-70s era clubs.

Lofts have gotten stronger as technology and design have improved and keeps the ball in the right launch window. That’s all explained in the video posted earlier from the titleist master fitter.

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18 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

The traditional loft comments always make me laugh. Most use it in terms of today’s irons compared when they first started playing. A 35* 7 iron is a strong lofted 7i compared to the 80s and even stronger when you compare it to the 60-70s era clubs.

Lofts have gotten stronger as technology and design have improved and keeps the ball in the right launch window. That’s all explained in the video posted earlier from the titleist master fitter.

Do you really understand what you're laughing at, Ricky?

First of all, applying modern technology to golf club design made altering the length / loft correlation necessary.

NOBODY IS DISAGREEING WITH THAT!!!!

The industry decided to keep the club number approximately  correlated to the tradition lengths.

They could just as easily have decided to keep the club number approximately correlated to the traditional lofts.

They just decided to go the other way.  It's that simple. The modern clubs would still be exactly the same except for stamping.

If somebody DARES to suggest that the manufacturers had done it the other way around---merely expressing an opinion or preference ---

they are treated on these pages as if they were the moral equivalent of terrorists or child molesters!

 

Further, as the discussion went on, it turned to GAPS between lofts more than lofts themselves.

Senior, juniors, and women might benefit, due to slower swing speeds, to wider gaps.

Attempts at marketing that concept failed in the past, however.  That's what's being discussed.

That might not interest everybody. No Problem.  Just ignore threads on the subject.

No need to argue about it, though.    Follow the threads that interest you.

Please don't take offense.  I think that you're just misunderstanding us.

 

 

 

 

Edited by BostonSal

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51 minutes ago, BostonSal said:

Do you really understand what you're laughing at, Ricky?

Yes I do. I’m well versed in club design and have had the chance to spend multiple weekends with club manufacturers like cobra and bridgestone along with Px and ust on the shaft side of things.

What I’m laughing at is people using terms that make no sense. The term traditional gets thrown around for clubs and attire on a regular basis. Nothing in the modern era is traditional. 

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13 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

Yes I do. I’m well versed in club design and have had the chance to spend multiple weekends with club manufacturers like cobra and bridgestone along with Px and ust on the shaft side of things.

What I’m laughing at is people using terms that make no sense. The term traditional gets thrown around for clubs and attire on a regular basis. Nothing in the modern era is traditional. 

Nothing in the modern era is traditional.  Agreed.

The word traditional remains in the lexicon nonetheless, Ricky.

Your generation is no different than mine or any other.

We all act as if the history of humanity before we arrived is totally irrelevant!

People my age discuss with one another how we may have preferred something to evolve as opposed to how it did.

What's hard to understand is why anybody would find that so offensive!

Just ignore conversations that don't interest you rather than belittle them.

Otherwise, it appears that you're just spoiling for an argument.

Nobody is trying to offend you.

We're just discussing something which doesn't interest you.

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1 hour ago, BostonSal said:

If somebody DARES to suggest that the manufacturers had done it the other way around---merely expressing an opinion or preference ---

they are treated on these pages as if they were the moral equivalent of terrorists or child molesters!

 

Senior, juniors, and women might benefit, due to slower swing speeds, to wider gaps.

 

The issue is that people think that the matching of a number on the club and the loft are extremely important.   No one can explain WHY it is so important.  Golf requires that you hit a club a specific distance.  I can hit a low lofted club with a half swing or I high lofted club with a full swing or I could be a player that has less shaft lean so I deliver less loft at impact.    Why does the number/loft correlation matter?  No one explains that other than saying that current clubs are more delofted than older clubs.  Okay that is try,  but again so what?     

I agree with you 100% that having a "set" with larger loft gaps or by simply carrying less clubs (the starter set that many of learned to play golf with.

 

@Titleist87 said "loft is more important to me than the club name".    Educate me on why having a 27* labeled as a 5 iron is so important and helps you play better golf.  Why is a 45* PW bad?    Importance is more than a preference.  

 

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