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DQOTD: Altering Swing Weights?


Middler

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I really don't have a problem getting my irons through square at impact. But with my 3h, 3w and especially my driver - I have to consciously bring the head around on the downswing, or my hands go through ahead of the club head and my drive is a push slice. I assume that's not necessarily typical, and I was wondering if adding to my swing weight might improve my swing sequence with woods/hybrids? I can just experiment with lead tape or heavier weights, but am I on the right/wrong track?

[I've been to Club Champion, and they sold me a shaft and kept my swing weight exactly the same as it was off the rack. Not a fan of CC.]

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Based on reading some information on this topic that had feedback fromTom Wishon:

when the swingweight is changed, for some golfers that can induce a change in our swing or our release such that the swing weight change could cause a golfer to rotate the head around more or less. But that is not something that happens with all golfers, not even close. And it happens only when the change in the swingweight feel to the golfer is such that it just happens to fall in synch with the golfer's tempo and swing timing. 

The only sure way that all golfers could see a change in the face angle position of the clubhead at impact is to play with a face angle that is MORE CLOSED than what the golfer used before. 

 

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Wouldn't adding weight to the head exaggerate the problem? 

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1 minute ago, THEZIPR23 said:

Wouldn't adding weight to the head exaggerate the problem? 

Not sure, that's why I am asking?

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7 minutes ago, THEZIPR23 said:

Wouldn't adding weight to the head exaggerate the problem? 

It could but it might not. More weight/change in feel could engage the bigger muscles more and improve sequencing for some. For other it may not change things at all or could make it worse.  I’ve been fit to heavier shafts and d3-4 drivers to improve tempo as I’m one who has had an aggressive transition 

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39 minutes ago, THEZIPR23 said:

Wouldn't adding weight to the head exaggerate the problem? 

 

37 minutes ago, Middler said:

Not sure, that's why I am asking?


It would also depend on where you placed the weight.  Heel side would slightly move the CoG toward the heel which would give the club a little more gear effect toward the toe.  Won’t eliminate right but maybe reduce by a couple of yards.   Feeling heavier might also make you feel the face being open and cause you to shut it more.   
 

only way to know for your swing is to try.  

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10 minutes ago, cnosil said:

only way to know for your swing is to try.  

Yup. And there’s threads and comments in threads on wrx for how to go about doing it in a methodical way to find if it works or not.

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35 minutes ago, cnosil said:

 


It would also depend on where you placed the weight.  Heel side would slightly move the CoG toward the heel which would give the club a little more gear effect toward the toe.  Won’t eliminate right but maybe reduce by a couple of yards.   Feeling heavier might also make you feel the face being open and cause you to shut it more.   
 

only way to know for your swing is to try.  

That’s what I was thinking. Some lead tape and a trip to the driving range to experiment. I can’t figure out why it happens with my woods/hybrids and not my irons? The swing weights on my irons are lower, so I may be looking at this all wrong, but no harm in trying.

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27 minutes ago, Middler said:

That’s what I was thinking. Some lead tape and a trip to the driving range to experiment. I can’t figure out why it happens with my woods/hybrids and not my irons? The swing weights on my irons are lower, so I may be looking at this all wrong, but no harm in trying.

The other thing to look at is what are the shafts that you are playing your irons and what shafts you are playing in your driver/fairways; specifically the weight of the shafts.  The balance point of your iron shafts is likely different than your diver/fairway shafts inducing this lighter feeling.  Something to look at.  Also playing with the lead tape on your driver/fairways is a good exercise.  Do you have a swing weight scale?

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44 minutes ago, Middler said:

That’s what I was thinking. Some lead tape and a trip to the driving range to experiment. I can’t figure out why it happens with my woods/hybrids and not my irons? The swing weights on my irons are lower, so I may be looking at this all wrong, but no harm in trying.

Have you checked ball position on those clubs? 

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I've adjusted the swing weight on my driver after I shortened it, and you have to experiment with tape until you get the result you're looking for. I remember seeing Palmer's clubs when he played in a tournament I attended and there was tape everywhere...but he was a pro and perfectionist. I would recommend seeing a PGA pro at one of the better clubs near by and discussing your issue and getting his opinion for a solution. It may be tape or a lesson to correct.

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2 hours ago, Middler said:

I really don't have a problem getting my irons through square at impact. But with my 3h, 3w and especially my driver - I have to consciously bring the head around on the downswing, or my hands go through ahead of the club head and my drive is a push slice. I assume that's not necessarily typical, and I was wondering if adding to my swing weight might improve my swing sequence with woods/hybrids? I can just experiment with lead tape or heavier weights, but am I on the right/wrong track?

[I've been to Club Champion, and they sold me a shaft and kept my swing weight exactly the same as it was off the rack. Not a fan of CC.]

From the minimal information that you provided here, I am not sure that a swingweight change is necessarily in order, although it may be part of your driver and FW solution. What may provide more positive results could be a shift in the clubhead/sole weight closer to the heel — or a slightly heavier shaft — in those clubs.  The heavier shaft may be all that you need, but I suspect that this alone won’t help you to naturally square-up the clubface in your downswing.  If you have the ability to move weight around in your driver [and fairway club(s)], I would suggest that you put the heaviest sole weight in the heel position rather than in the back of the head(s).  If you have access to a heavier head weight, you might also try installing that in the heel position, which WILL add to the club’s swingweight.

The above suggestion(s) should at least provide a starting point to see if switching to heel-biased club weighting will help you to square the face at impact.

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I had similar problems.... 

one is you may not be squaring the clubface at impact.  more weight, various places may help....

you might have a slight outside in swing path.   your irons create more backspin that might mask your

sidespin.  your longer woods, have less backspin, allowing the sidespin to raise it's ugly head....

=======

try some practice swings with your hands apart (right hand gripping couple inches below left)

this promotes the right hand turning over at impact.   

this "feel"  may help you square club face.

might also help your swing become more inside out ???

good luck.

also, use a very light grip, which allows wrists to break.

a tight grip may not allow a full release.

===============

took me two years of experimentation.... changing grips, ball placement, testing weight adj on clubs;

more lower body effort to help release club.....

now my misses are big draws/hooks --- big change from push/slice

ahahahaha

 

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52 minutes ago, funkyjudge said:

From the minimal information that you provided here, I am not sure that a swingweight change is necessarily in order, although it may be part of your driver and FW solution. What may provide more positive results could be a shift in the clubhead/sole weight closer to the heel — or a slightly heavier shaft — in those clubs.  The heavier shaft may be all that you need, but I suspect that this alone won’t help you to naturally square-up the clubface in your downswing.  If you have the ability to move weight around in your driver [and fairway club(s)], I would suggest that you put the heaviest sole weight in the heel position rather than in the back of the head(s).  If you have access to a heavier head weight, you might also try installing that in the heel position, which WILL add to the club’s swingweight.

The above suggestion(s) should at least provide a starting point to see if switching to heel-biased club weighting will help you to square the face at impact.

I won’t jump to conclusions and I’ll experiment, but that sounds  interesting. CC recommended a lighter regular flex shaft to replace the stock (10g heavier) stiff shaft I was using. The swing weight was the same with both. I bought and used the CC shaft for 6 weeks, determined to make it work, but my dispersion was measurably worse. So I sold the CC shaft for about 25 cents on the dollar. I’ve been using the original stiff shaft for more than a year, maybe it’s a little light. Something else for me to ponder.

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25 minutes ago, mywong23 said:

I had similar problems.... 

one is you may not be squaring the clubface at impact.  more weight, various places may help....

you might have a slight outside in swing path.   your irons create more backspin that might mask your

sidespin.  your longer woods, have less backspin, allowing the sidespin to raise it's ugly head....

=======

try some practice swings with your hands apart (right hand gripping couple inches below left)

this promotes the right hand turning over at impact.   

this "feel"  may help you square club face.

might also help your swing become more inside out ???

good luck.

also, use a very light grip, which allows wrists to break.

a tight grip may not allow a full release.

===============

took me two years of experimentation.... changing grips, ball placement, testing weight adj on clubs;

more lower body effort to help release club.....

now my misses are big draws/hooks --- big change from push/slice

ahahahaha

 

I go with this. If you're 0 or 1or2 degrees out to in it  and set up slightly closed  some shots with longer clubs may look like a push.  Do you know generally what your path and face to path is?

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But your swing with a wood and hybrid are supposed to be different than irons. It’s the nature of the beast.  If thinking that they would remain the same, then that’s completely wrong.  The shafts are longer, swing is more of a sweep and flatter then up and down while taking a divot.  

take a lesson and it will get better.  

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The longer clubs require more rotation of the clubhead to square the clubhead.  The BEST thing you can do is test by adding weight, BUT use some spray on the clubhead because you will find that adding weight will change the shaft's bend profile so u have to get the weight that allows you to hit the ball off the middle or toe side to get the draw spin / gear effect you need

Heavier weight on a draw model in the right place will help

 

I love the Ping G425 SFT with heavier weight than the stock weight, I am using a 35 gram weight and it helps me hit a draw which I never could do, the stock weight is a 26 gram, but mess with the head adding lead tape and see if your centerness of contact improves or worsens with added weight

 

Good luck

 

Clubmaker Steve

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16 hours ago, Shinnman said:

But your swing with a wood and hybrid are supposed to be different than irons. It’s the nature of the beast.  If thinking that they would remain the same, then that’s completely wrong.  The shafts are longer, swing is more of a sweep and flatter then up and down while taking a divot.  

take a lesson and it will get better.  

My long clubs swing is decidedly different than my irons, I know the principles, that’s probably not it.

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8 hours ago, Golfnut0226 said:

my thought exactly, usually heavy club is harder to square up

 

Not necessarily so.  Some golfers respond better and are able to square the club/clubface better with a heavier club, while others fare much better with a lighter club.  This is why, as professional clubfitters, we have a mantra that goes “test, test, and then test some more”.

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7W (if played) - Callaway Epic Flash, ACCRA Tour X 80S

Irons - Cobra Forged Tec X (5-GW), KBS TGI 75-R

Wedges - Edison 2.0, 53* and 57* (bent to 58*), KBS TGI 100

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The lead tape is a good and inexpensive way to go. Changing shafts may help but at a considerable cost to expieriment. Go with the lead tape first. I am curriently swinging a D8 driver, up from the stock D1. It has made a huge difference. After determining what swing weight I wanted, I went to ebay and bought heavier club weights and changed out the stock weights. Effective and cheap. I also bought a much lighter shaft that also increased the swing weight.

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5 hours ago, wbn said:

The lead tape is a good and inexpensive way to go. Changing shafts may help but at a considerable cost to expieriment. Go with the lead tape first. I am curriently swinging a D8 driver, up from the stock D1. It has made a huge difference. After determining what swing weight I wanted, I went to ebay and bought heavier club weights and changed out the stock weights. Effective and cheap. I also bought a much lighter shaft that also increased the swing weight.

OK, This is probably a noob question, but I am a person who doesn't tinker much weights and changing things around.  

Are you talking about the weight in the club head itself? Hope that makes sense and yes I feel the eye rolls through the wires. Not trying to highjack this thread, I just didn't realize I could take the weight out and use a heavier/lighter weight.  

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6 minutes ago, JFish350 said:

OK, This is probably a noob question, but I am a person who doesn't tinker much weights and changing things around.  

Are you talking about the weight in the club head itself? Hope that makes sense and yes I feel the eye rolls through the wires. Not trying to highjack this thread, I just didn't realize I could take the weight out and use a heavier/lighter weight.  

Many drivers/woods have one or more screw in weights, you can buy lighter and/or heavier weights and replace. If not you can use lead tape to experiment, and then a fitter can add subtract weight using other methods (bottom of the shaft, inside the club head, etc.) to alter your swing weight accordingly. Lead tape isn’t supposed to be a permanent solution, but some players do it.

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14 minutes ago, JFish350 said:

OK, This is probably a noob question, but I am a person who doesn't tinker much weights and changing things around.  

Are you talking about the weight in the club head itself? Hope that makes sense and yes I feel the eye rolls through the wires. Not trying to highjack this thread, I just didn't realize I could take the weight out and use a heavier/lighter weight.  

With the clubs that have removable weights you can buy different ones and change the weight. Hot melt is also another way to influence weight and sound

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Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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2 hours ago, JFish350 said:

OK, This is probably a noob question, but I am a person who doesn't tinker much weights and changing things around.  

Are you talking about the weight in the club head itself? Hope that makes sense and yes I feel the eye rolls through the wires. Not trying to highjack this thread, I just didn't realize I could take the weight out and use a heavier/lighter weight.  

Your signature shows that you play a GBB Epic driver.  Here is a source for different weight weights.  

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-gbb-epic-driver-weights/p/bb9102/

To try an clarify your question.  With clubs there are different ways the club can be measured.  First is total weight which is the combination of each components weight.  Swing weight is more about the balance and feel of the club.   Put on a heavier grip and the swing weight drips;  a lighter grip increases swing weight.  Change the shaft, weight of the club head, length of the club, lie angle of the club and you impact the swingweight.   You see swing weight numbers like C8, D5, E2, etc.  These are obtained from a swing weight scale.     Some people are more sensitive to others regarding swingweight and some players can't tell one from another.   Generally it impacts how you feel the club during the swing.  

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If it's a matter of the clubhead being so light you can't feel it in your hands/mind as you take the club back, then it's a weight issue.  If that's not it, it's a club length issue. The longer clubs require a flatter swing (back and downswing), which is harder than a more vertical swing. And it's harder to keep your clubface controlled and tracking in your mind with the longer clubs.

I recently bought a 48" driver and it is the most difficult club to square I've ever hit. It feels like you're swinging horizontal on the way back and down, almost like hitting a tee ball waist high vs a downward vertical strike that you do with your short irons.  And that makes squaring the clubface so much harder, especially if you're not a "hands" type swinger and rely on body rotation to square the club. I have to consciously turn my wrists as hard as I can through the impact zone to have any hope of hitting a straight shot with that club. Otherwise I'll hit a hard push or even a massive banana ball, instead of a nice draw which is my typical flight pattern.  I'm sure it would be even more difficult if I tried an even longer club, no matter the weight.  

I hope you solve your issue.

 

 

 

 

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50 minutes ago, Pro-V-None said:

I recently bought a 48" driver and it is the most difficult club to square I've ever hit. It feels like you're swinging horizontal on the way back and down, almost like hitting a tee ball waist high vs a downward vertical strike that you do with your short irons.  And that makes squaring the clubface so much harder, especially if you're not a "hands" type swinger and rely on body rotation to square the club. I have to consciously turn my wrists as hard as I can through the impact zone to have any hope of hitting a straight shot with that club. Otherwise I'll hit a hard push or even a massive banana ball, instead of a nice draw which is my typical flight pattern.  I'm sure it would be even more difficult if I tried an even longer club, no matter the weight.  

Unlike my irons, that’s what I have to do with my D, 3W & 3H. With my 3W & 3H I have to turn my wrists hard to yield a straight shot. With my driver I have to turn my wrists somewhat, if I turn them hard I smother it left. If I don’t actively turn my wrists, I get a push slice. Finding that tempo and wrist turn that gets me off the tee straight is an “adventure” every time I play…sure would like to figure out something more repeatable. I average 7-8 fairways hit per round, ranging from 2 to 13 of 14 though those extremes are an exception thankfully.

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Sounds more like a swing problem than a swing weight issue.  Possibly improper wrist set in the backswing and having to compensate in the transition and downswing.

 

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I am a hands player now anyway. I make my hands responsible for applying the face to the ball, so I take it back preparing to bring it back with the least amount of manipulation into the ball.  I'm aiming the entire swing, I guess. I gave up on the idea of a mechanical golf swing regulated by the big muscles of the body, since most of the motion is done subconciously anyway, so why focus on it? It makes fixing things so much easier.  Slicing the ball? No need to reconsider your hip turn, shoulder turn, swing plane, elbow position, ball position, etc.  looking for the fix.  The clubface was open at impact. Close it faster so it's square next time. The hands are holding the club, so let them do it. Problem solved. Hitting the ball left. Okay, the clubface is closing early. Have it come in less closed until the ball stops going left and starts going straight. Easy. The hands can do that. And sometimes you hit bad shots, not because of swing faults, but because you're human and don't have perfect eye/hand coordination.  That's life and there's no mechanical fix for that. 

You may want to check out AJ Bonar or even some old clips by Henry Cotton.  Both of those guys advocate the hands controlling the swing helped me more than guys giving swing tips and body positions you must emulate to hit the ball well.  I'd rather just be told what the clubface is supposed to do to the ball and work out how to do it myself instead of turning the golf swing into some elaborate dance move that almost nobody will ever learn how to do successfully no matter how hard you try. 

Edited by Pro-V-None
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