I screwed up my new club build. Anyway to fix quickly and cheaply?

[Nolan220]

3 minutes ago, Shapotomous said:

I'd guess a badly mixed batch of epoxy since all were from the same build.  I always keep the piece of cardboard I mix the batch on around so I can see how it sets up the next day.  I had one batch stay soft one time and pulled the head, cleaned things up and re-epoxied it with a fresh batch.  I think that one would have flown off.  

Yeah that’s what the builder said, he built other irons for me before and no prob .. I still go to him but I was just saying even professionals hinge could happen … with that being said I would rather take my graphite shafts to a pro to get the heads removed .. I would be scared to damage the shafts 

[fixyurdivot]

On 10/18/2021 at 7:40 PM, dlow206 said:

Never thought I would be "upgrading" from the Mitchell commercial puller, but got this thing on the way. 3000 pounds of thrust plus 700 pounds of compressed spring. 

https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-reverse-thrust-shaft-puller/p/gm1068/

Maybe I missed it in a previous post, but why the need to upgrade - primarily the spring pre-load?  

[dlow206]

1 hour ago, fixyurdivot said:

Maybe I missed it in a previous post, but why the need to upgrade - primarily the spring pre-load?  

For me, that was the primary driver. Needed to see for myself if that spring pre-load would provide a lot of benefit and it does. You just crank it to get the spring loaded, start heat, and the spring will push (actually pull for the reverse thrust) it off as soon as the epoxy is broken.

To me, it the spring-loaded style has the following benefits:

• Overall, less heat required. 
• If you get in a situation where a graphite shaft was installed too tight into a hosel or adapter, the spring will help.
• I have actually had an instance where a steel shaft was a bit too tight (bad tolerances on the hosel), and twisting didn't help, the spring got it off

[fixyurdivot]

2 hours ago, dlow206 said:

For me, that was the primary driver. Needed to see for myself if that spring pre-load would provide a lot of benefit and it does. You just crank it to get the spring loaded, start heat, and the spring will push (actually pull for the reverse thrust) it off as soon as the epoxy is broken.

To me, it the spring-loaded style has the following benefits:

• Overall, less heat required. 
• If you get in a situation where a graphite shaft was installed too tight into a hosel or adapter, the spring will help.
• I have actually had an instance where a steel shaft was a bit too tight (bad tolerances on the hosel), and twisting didn't help, the spring got it off

That was my thinking as well when I opted for the Golfworks version.  It made sense to have some force working against the bond as it was heated - lowering the risk of overheating.  I looked at the unit you bought, and it looks well built, but just a bit more than I wanted to spend.  I haven't even tried mine yet but plan to when we get back to Montana next spring.

[ChitownM2]

On 10/30/2021 at 2:21 AM, Pro-V-None said:

.... I need to cut them off about an inch now, which won't work for my project. Luckily my friend wants to reshaft his old Bertha's and he's a good 1 to 2" in shaft length less than me, so it works out for both of us.  I'm just going to have him buy me new shafts and I'll just swap them in.

 

Just be aware that cutting 1-2" off the tip end of the shaft is going to have a dramatic effect on how that shaft plays for your friend.  If these are parallel tip shafts and you're going to use the cut down shafts in the short irons then you're probably ok, but you definitely don't want to put a shaft that has been tipped 2" into a 5 iron....