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Why should I get new irons?


Peter-T

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10 hours ago, funkyjudge said:

There are a multitude of features that make today's irons easier to hit (and easier to hit straight) than irons that were manufactured even ten years ago.  Those foam-injected hollow bodies and the increased low-and-back weighting are among those features, and they make even some irons that look an awful lot like blades, or at the least like better-player's irons, more forgiving than some so-called "game improvement" irons of only a decade or so back.

If you don't see significant performance improvements with the TM P790 (and even P770), Tour Edge Exotics C721 and E721, and virtually every PXG iron that has ever been made, then there is nothing that I can say to convince you.  Believe me, as a clubfitter, I see tremendous improvements in these, and many other, modern irons.

Doug

I don’t get the easier to hit straight. Isn’t straight based on path and face orientation? To my knowledge irons don’t have bulge and roll like on drivers.  I’ll agree that the designs look like blades of old but really aren’t blades based on weighting and construction.  I guess the foam filled/hollow bodies allow more weight to be placed on the extremes to reduce rotation on miss hits and help launch the ball higher.
 

having hit all those clubs you do see distance increases and if performance =distance then these clubs do perform “better”.   What creates that distance increase appears to be low spin?   What I don’t seem to see is better total dispersion; maybe short long but not left right.   
 

Thanks for the response,  maybe it’s more swing related or something I need to dig into deeper.  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

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44 minutes ago, Riverboat said:

I think most players acknowledge that it's easier to work the ball, both trajectory and curve, with blades than with game improvement irons. So why doesn't it make sense that as the weight is moved even more to the extremes of the head, this would reduce even more so the tendency to curve the ball, i.e. hit it straighter. I know that my new pxg 0211s have virtually eliminated the raging hook that has always been my most annoying and costly miss.

YOu didn’t answer the original question.  And I don’t acknowledge your fact; hence my asking for more details.  I know overanalyzing, but I don’t see comparable clubs going straighter.  Impact conditions determine ball flight.  Dynamic loft influences backspin and face angle and path influence left/right curve.  Answer this: Given the same launch conditions, why would a GI travel straighter than a players iron? For a center strike there should be no difference other than backspin and vertical launch which means more distance not decreased curve.   On an off center strike with same conditions, the players iron will want to twist which reduces ball speed and maybe increases curve.  actual performance impact  would be getting into how much the person misses the center of the face.  The perimeter weighting should influence the clubs rate of rotation.  So a GI club should rotate in the swing more slowly which could help a player deliver the face angle more consistently.   Maybe that last part is actually the answer to my original question on older GI vs new GI clubs.  The hollow body designs and lighter metals, clubs have more perimeter weighting than 10+ years ago which helps control face angle so once a player figures out how to deliver the club close to square it is easier to repeat?  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

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43 minutes ago, Riverboat said:

So all the good players who avoid gi irons because they are more difficult to work are wrong?

You say "On an off center strike with same conditions, the players iron will want to twist which reduces ball speed and maybe increases curve." Exactly!! Since I and most amateurs miss the center of the face most of the time, this happens, so the gi irons fly straighter. You made my case for me. 

The raging hook I referenced earlier was almost always a toe strike. That same strike with the 0211s is a draw that is still playable. 

I personally think it is more related to feedback.  Good players want to know why a ball,reacted the way it did.  I find with GI and SGI clubs is that it is more difficult to tell where you strike the ball on the face not that it is more difficult to work. 

But again, you aren’t addressing my original question.  I don’t disagree that by switching categories of clubs that performance is different.  Stay in the same category of clubs.  Why is a 2021 players iron better than a 2000 players iron?  Why is a 2021 GI iron better than a 2000 GI iron?  If both clubs were in pristine condition what makes the newer club so much better?  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

Backups:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W

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1 hour ago, Riverboat said:

I'm not as deep into the science of this as you seem to be, but I can see results. When I bought my Taylormades 8ish years ago, they reduced my miss hits over my previous set.

that is what I want to get into and you don’t seem able to provide an answer other than saying you might be right on your assumption.  The individual that originally answered and I quoted is a long time club fitter which is why I am hoping he might be able to provide some detailed insight.   For what it’s worth, I have tried various sets over the years within the same club category and don’t see the same benefits you are.  When I hit clubs on the course, I am able to move the ball when i need too so there isn’t a lack of workability and I don’t see any better ball flight or straightness. 
 

I read articles that claim distance and forgiveness.  They show charts that compare 70s/80s clubs vs current and newer ones have slightly higher launch and higher peak and more distance.  I’ve also read that you may not see much difference from irons over the past 15 years.  Yes improvement but unless worn out you may not see significant benefit.  They say weight has been moved more distance more forgiveness, etc. I have also seen that all of this allows for a smaller club head…which people like the looks of.   How much forgiveness does this advancement give me?  Has my are of forgiveness grown from 1” to 1 1/8” and is that meaningful?  
 

back to the original question..when should I get new irons? I guess keep trying them and when you see a difference that is meaningful to you then you know it is time.   

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

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Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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In the last year I’ve switched from relatively new Players distance irons (Titleist AP3) to forged cavity back irons (Corey Paul) to forged blades (also Corey Paul).  

What I’ve learned is that loft has been the biggest determiner of distance. My current 9 iron and my old Pitching wedge have very similar lofts and they go pretty much the same distance.

The shafts I’m using now are heavier steel 120 g stiff vs the previous steel 110 g stiff and the ball is not curving as much while giving me the trajectory that I want.

I bought the AP3s new after having been fitted for them in 2018.  They had about 700 rounds played and are still in very good shape albeit a little dinged up.

The Corey Paul forged cavity backs felt better, have very clean lines but the top line was a little boxy and I just did not like the shape of the pitching wedge.  The transition from the hosel to the face also made it appear that there was more offset than actually what was measured.  

Despite hitting them well I had the chance to put together a set of Corey Paul minimalist blades and am glad that I did because they are everything I had hoped they would be.  Love the way they look, feel and perform so far and expect I will be playing them for awhile.

So, when is it the right time to get a new set of irons?  

Lots of possible answers based on performance, feel, confidence, economics, etc.

In general though I would say get a new set when the current set is not allowing you to achieve whatever your goals are in playing golf whether that be carry distance, peak height, trajectory and shot shape, landing angle and spin, dispersion, feel, looks, lower scores, or status.

Best wishes to you in finding a set of irons that tick all of the boxes!  

 

Tour Edge C723 8.0 MCA Tensei AV Blue Xlink 65S

Cobra LTDx 3W lofted to 16.5 Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Tour Edge E723 21 degree MCA Tensei AV Blue 65 S

Cobra LTDx 24 degree 5 hybrid Fujikura Fuel 85g Stiff

Corey Paul - 5-PW Japan Forged Minimalist Blades KBS $-Taper 120 Stiff

Corey Paul Functional Art 52, 56 & 60

Odyssey O Works Black #7 with BGT Stability Tour Shaft, SuperStroke Traxion 3.0 & 75g CounterCore

Bridgestone Tour BRX or MaxFli Tour

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4 hours ago, Riverboat said:

Last response since I seem to be bothering you. 

You are very good at answering your own questions. The last paragraph you wrote is the correct answer for any purchase. 

Otherwise, your inconsistency is interesting. From me, you say I am just giving you experience, when you want scientific reasons. But as I pointed out, you've already given the scientific reasons and club improvements, but you trust your experiences that those things haven't panned out for your swing. You clearly want to keep your old irons, so keep them. Nobody can convince you otherwise when you already have all the answers. 

Final question, and it's not meant to offend... If you can work the ball, I'm assuming you mean both ways, when necessary, shouldn't you be seeing better scoring results? I haven't been able to move it left to right since I stopped paying blades 25 years ago, but when I could do it effectively, I was in the very low single digits, as is almost everyone I know who can do that. What is holding you back? Judging by all I've read from you, could it be that you just make everything too complicated? Maybe you should try simplifying for awhile. I really think it might improve your play. 

Really not bothering me.  Maybe I am correctly answering my own questions and looking for something more objective.  Probably will never get the exact response I am looking for and would have to do my own comparisons on a launch monitor and on the course.   Also,  I don't have old irons,  don't know if you looked at my signature,  but my irons are only a a couple of years old.    My ultimate answer might be age 🙂   I just feel like my game has really dropped off since I switched away from my old Cleveland  TA-7 Tours in about 2015.   At that time I was hesitant about switching but wanted new irons for no other reason that I wanted new irons.  

When I played the TA-7s,  I was a 4 and my handicap was trending down;  since then it has slowly been rising.   When I play I don't try to work the ball;  one shot shape unless I need to hit something from out of the trees. That is what I mean when I say that I am able to move it both ways when necessary.   I try to play a pretty simple game strategically so I am not sure what I am making too complicated.   My short game totally collapsed and I was losing significant stroke due to bladed and chunked chips/pitches even when the goal was to just get it on the green.  Since I have been focusing on the short game,  my full swing took a backseat and I now have a big miss that pops up through the round  that causes blow up holes.   From your perspective what do you think I am doing that is too complicated?

 

 

 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

Backups:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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I agree with the other comment that you should hit some side by side with your irons. If you haven’t played for that long you may find that the modern day irons will help with mis-hits and will have possibly better shaft options. Don’t dismiss the idea of looking at used drivers and f-woods. You can find good quality equipment for a lot less money. 

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Two very good pieces of advice have been offered: 1. Newer shafts will probably be your best investment and; 2. Take you clubs and hit them along with new and used irons. Iron technology has not changed that much in the last 5 years and you may be able to get a 'newer set at a discount.

I also have a Ping Anser and went to a putter fitting. The fitter watched a few putts and said you don't need a new putter just better alignment and aim routine. Gave me a lesson and I was good to go. 

My point is go to a fitter who will provide an honest evaluation.

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On 11/26/2021 at 9:19 PM, Riverboat said:

Absolutely. Irons don't have to cost 1300. You can get pxg 0211s, with fitting, for half that., and they are fantastic clubs. 

Did the same  6-pw superb! £420  or $620 helped my game, great fitting experience too. 

More importantly will spending big money help you enjoy the game more? I would say Yes!

"They called it golf because all of the other four letter words were used" Raymond Floyd

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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38 minutes ago, MacMan said:

Did the same  6-pw superb! £420  or $620 helped my game, great fitting experience too. 

More importantly will spending big money help you enjoy the game more? I would say Yes!

With a Macgregor avatar, don't tell me you replaced Macgregor irons with PXGs!!  😱

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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I find this to be an interesting thread.  I have had my current irons since April 2018, and while I cannot justify replacing them,  I do 'lust' after some new ones.  I have tried telling my wife that I would play so much better if I spent a lot more $money, but she is not buying into that LOL!

  • Bag             1590477705_SunMountain.png.3391233ea391e8b6fde951d09bc76f6b.png  C130, 14 way Cart Bag
  • Driver         Titleist2.png.8b09d3ee0000870a77d83dce357a0efd.png      TSR1
  • Fairway      default_callaway-small.jpg.aef84328349c576af498d3d5dca1addb.jpg               GBB Epic 5
  • Hybrid        default_callaway-small.jpg.aef84328349c576af498d3d5dca1addb.jpg               Epic Flash 4H
  • Iron             lazarus.png.24092c99689747a2f7bd9cb786badde7.png              2 iron
  • Irons          635785482_Cleveland3.png.bafd9f7d003e9f8afcafc6c28e307467.png      Launcher HB, 4 through PW
  • Wedges     635785482_Cleveland3.png.bafd9f7d003e9f8afcafc6c28e307467.png      CBX2, 54 & 60 degree
  • Putter        Seemore3.jpg.1cb64ec83d2511c1ee1a386340a04d4e.jpg    Seemore Si1 Putter
  • Ball            Titleist2.png.8b09d3ee0000870a77d83dce357a0efd.png       Titleist pro v1x
  • Other        2000014788_ArccosSig.jpg.af5434230b907b708eb89aebd4125f95.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, Paul Hedrick said:

I find this to be an interesting thread.  I have had my current irons since April 2018, and while I cannot justify replacing them,  I do 'lust' after some new ones.  I have tried telling my wife that I would play so much better if I spent a lot more $money, but she is not buying into that LOL!

2018 wasn't very long ago, Paul. 

I did get new irons this year, but my last ones were bought in 2009.

The times before that?

1997, and it was 1984, I'm pretty sure, before that.

 

And if we're being very honest, I wish that I could play as well as I did in 1984!

I still have the 1984 irons as well as all the others, but trying to play them doesn't turn back the clock, unfortunately.

 

But I do hear you.  Wives usually have a pretty influential position on the family budget committee.

 

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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I currently play JPX900 forged with PX LZ 6.0 steel shafts. 

I notice a toe mishit with these irons does not cost as much distance as with the TC Forged which were more forgiving than the Palmers.  The JPX900's improved my distance over the TC's which is mostly due to stronger lofts but also probably due to design.  However I am about a club shorter now than I was with the Palmers way back when even with todays jacked lofts.  So there is something to be said about youth, strength & flexibility factoring into the equation when deciding on new clubs.

The workability of shots is the reverse with the JPX900's harder to move either direction than the TC's which were harder to work than the Palmers.  Quite a bit of the lack of workability is (again) a decrease in strength in my hands, wrists and forearms but some is attributable to the club design.

I have played the JPX900's for 2 seasons and improved my 'cap by 3 or 4 shots in that time.  I also upgraded the driver and putter in that time period and rehabbed my body a bit so improvement isn't all equipment related.  Prior set was Tour Cavity Forged (Wishon design) from early 1990's with various shafts over the years.  Those replaced a set of Palmer First Flight blades from about 1979 with DG x100 shafts and at that time I was maybe a 1 or 2 'cap.  My 'cap gradually rose over the years to an 8 or 9 about 3 years ago. 

About then I was getting frustrated with the scoring slide and wasn't having fun playing and decided to go through an equipment upgrade and workout / stretching program to see if I could get back to what I considered fun golf scores.  After a couple months of the workouts I started with a fitting and landed the irons first, then a driver.  I'm hanging around a 4-5 'cap these days and that is in the fun range for me.  

Modern Bag:  :ping-small: G410 LST 10.5*, Hzrdus Smoke RDX 6.5 Flex;   :titelist-small:  915F 3w, Diamana S+ 70 S flex;  Snake Eyes 18* 2h, 23* 4h & 27* 5h; :mizuno-small: JPX 900 Forged 6 - PW, PX LZ 6.0;  Edison 2.0 49*, 53*, 57* KBS Tour 120 S;   :ping-small:  Heppler Fetch;  Ball - :Snell: MTB-X; Bag - Jones MyGolfSpy Edition! 

Shot Scope H4, MG600 Rangefinder

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10 minutes ago, Shapotomous said:

I notice a toe mishit with these irons does not cost as much distance as with the TC Forged which were more forgiving than the Palmers.  The JPX900's improved my distance over the TC's which is mostly due to stronger lofts but also probably due to design.  However I am about a club shorter now than I was with the Palmers way back when even with todays jacked lofts.  So there is something to be said about youth, strength & flexibility factoring into the equation when deciding on new clubs.

 

... Yup, so many factors involved in finding the right irons. The most interesting aspect about todays irons vs irons from the past is distance pretty much maxed out years ago, which is one of the reasons for jacked lofts. There are other design factors involved so it isn't as simple as just being longer but distance is a factor. OEMs began focusing on individual tendencies. Muscle back blades could move the cg a little higher or lower as well as moving it closer to the center instead of the heel. Simple perimeter weighting made shots hit off the sweet spot more forgiving with less loss in distance and accuracy. But current irons can increase and decrease spin, produce more or less trajectory and fine tune shots for where you miss the center. It is possible to figure this all out on your own if you are an equipment aficionado but much easier to diagnose during a fitting. Qualified fitters can certainly attest to many coming into the fitting with a specific iron in mind only to find it is not as good a fit as another iron that is designed to maximize their personal tendencies. 

Driver:     :taylormade-small:  Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R
Fairway:  :cobra-small: Aerojet 3/5 ... Kai'li Blue 60R
Hybrids:  :ping-small:      430 Hybrid 22*... Steelfiber 780Hy 
                  :taylormade-small:  DHy #4 ... Diamana LTD 65r 
Irons:       :titleist-small:         '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:  :taylormade-small: Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:     :cobra-small:  Sport-60 33" 
Ball:           Maxfli     Maxfli Tour

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On 11/24/2021 at 5:07 PM, Peter-T said:

Hi,

I just started playing again after almost 30 years.  I have a relatively new driver (TaylorMade r7 quad), but my irons are over 40 years old.  I regripped them but steel shafts and heads are original.

I know a lot has changed in 40  years but what am I going to gain.  As I haven't played much in the last 30 years, I am not that good.  Now that I am retired I plan to play more often.

What are the benefits of the new technology?

If I can't replace the whole set at once, where do I begin?  I don't have a fairway wood but have pretty much everything else.  I bought a used 4 hybrid earlier this year just to have one in the bag.  My putter is also 40 years old and I think I only paid $25 for it back in 1980.

Thanks.

I’m gonna circle back to the original post for a second.  Why should you get new irons? Because you deserve them and they’ll make you happy.  The benefits are you’ll get more distance, forgiveness, and a more fulfilling life.  Mic drop….

  • :ping-small: G425 Max driver
  • :ping-small: G425 SFT 3 wood
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  • :callaway-small:  B21 irons 6-PW
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On 11/26/2021 at 4:19 PM, Riverboat said:

Absolutely. Irons don't have to cost 1300. You can get pxg 0211s, with fitting, for half that., and they are fantastic clubs. 

And if you are a Vet, you get significant discounts making new irons very affordable plus the forgiveness that your 40 yr old clubs do not have.

Driver: image.png.6ba1c8a254ad57aa05e527b74c2e04ba.png0311 XF 10.5* w/Project X Cypher 40 gram Senior shaft or 0811 XF 12* w/Evenflo Riptide CB Senior shaft

Fairways:  image.png.80321f01fc46450b6f428c7daf7b3471.png0211 5W & 7W w/ Evenflo Riptide CB  regular shaft and Tour Edge E521 9W w/Fubuki HD50 regular shaft

Hybrid: None in bag at the moment

IronsTitleist T300 5-PW w/Fubuki MV Senior graphite shafts w/Golf Pride Tour

Wedges: Edison forged 49*, 53* and 57* wedges with KB PGI Senior shafts(80 grm).

Putter: 33” Evnroll ER6R or  ER2 or Bellum Winmore Model 707,   or Nike Method Core Drone  w/Evnroll Gravity Grip

Bag: Vice cart bag(Black/Lime). 

Ball: Snell MTB Prime X, Maxfli Tour/S/X CG, Titleist Pro V1x or Titleist TruFeel

Using Shot Scope X5 and Pinned Rangefinder

 

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On 12/4/2021 at 5:11 AM, Kenny B said:

With a Macgregor avatar, don't tell me you replaced Macgregor irons with PXGs!!  😱

If Macgregor still made clubs like they did 20 years ago I'd be all over them!

V-Foil VIP 1025 CM's Forged, S300 shafts, Cavity Back's 3-6, Pure Blades 7-PW +GW, SW & LW!!! BEST IRONS I HAVE EVER USED!! 

Schools out on the PXG 0211's,  good so far, but not 100% sure.... Still keep going back to my Cleveland CG1 Tour Irons.

Form Forged Japan Spec, 6-PW, DG S300... narrow sole  low bounce minimal offset - Almost as good as the Macs!!!

"They called it golf because all of the other four letter words were used" Raymond Floyd

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 12/4/2021 at 1:03 PM, chisag said:

 

... Yup, so many factors involved in finding the right irons. The most interesting aspect about todays irons vs irons from the past is distance pretty much maxed out years ago, which is one of the reasons for jacked lofts. There are other design factors involved so it isn't as simple as just being longer but distance is a factor. OEMs began focusing on individual tendencies. Muscle back blades could move the cg a little higher or lower as well as moving it closer to the center instead of the heel. Simple perimeter weighting made shots hit off the sweet spot more forgiving with less loss in distance and accuracy. But current irons can increase and decrease spin, produce more or less trajectory and fine tune shots for where you miss the center. It is possible to figure this all out on your own if you are an equipment aficionado but much easier to diagnose during a fitting. Qualified fitters can certainly attest to many coming into the fitting with a specific iron in mind only to find it is not as good a fit as another iron that is designed to maximize their personal tendencies. 

chisag has taken us deep into the weeds with interesting but technical  considerations on iron choice.

As a   "plus" capper, he's an expert and I'm clearly not.   Let's get that clear right away.

 

My method in choosing my new irons was so much more simple.   As I reveal it, please remember all the while that I have a 1990s flip phone and have never sent a text message or taken a picture with a telephone. That's where I am with technology.   And my primary phone is a land line.  Ready?

 

First, I eliminated every model with a nine iron stronger than 42º.   

That was so I could have an overall set configuration in a familiar format with which I was comfortable.

 

That left me with a lot of pure blades with no GI features at all so I eliminated them as well.

That in turn left me essentially with Titleist T100s, Mizuno JPX 921 Tours, Hogan PTx Pros, and Wilson Staff CBs.

Callaway Apex Pro came in at a 41º 9-iron.    Bye bye, Callaway.

 

Then I looked at what those manufacturers offered for shaft and grip options.

Deep breath and on to wedges.

 

Then I looked for who could give me wedges at 48-54-60 to synch with a 42º 9-iron,

and which manufacturer offered those lofts that I just mentioned with the lowest bounce angles.

Then I looked at the shaft and grip options offered by the wedge manufacturers.

 

Then I matched irons and wedges

by the ability to get the same shafts and grips on both the numbered irons and the wedges.

 

All of this could be done without so much as seeing a golf club in person and touching it,

never mind going near a launch monitor / simulator.

 

For my purposes as a player just coming back up to a two figure cap due to my age and physical condition,

and who never even sniffed a "plus" cap,

this method works perfectly.

 

Everything one degree flat with R-flex graphite and a wrap-type grip and there you have it--I'm good to go.

 

Try it at your own risk.   I have a feeling that chisag won't, right chi?

Actor dude can play.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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On 12/5/2021 at 2:04 AM, MacMan said:

If Macgregor still made clubs like they did 20 years ago I'd be all over them!

V-Foil VIP 1025 CM's Forged, S300 shafts, Cavity Back's 3-6, Pure Blades 7-PW +GW, SW & LW!!! BEST IRONS I HAVE EVER USED!! 

Schools out on the PXG 0211's,  good so far, but not 100% sure.... Still keep going back to my Cleveland CG1 Tour Irons.

Form Forged Japan Spec, 6-PW, DG S300... narrow sole  low bounce minimal offset - Almost as good as the Macs!!!

One wonders if it would be worth it to MacMan and Stu to have vintage Mac irons completely rebuilt by somebody like The Iron Factory.  It would be at least as as expensive as buying something brand new, but it would be getting them gear that they really liked.  Repaired and welded.  Re-grooved.  Re-chromed.  Re-paint filled.  Re-shafted and gripped.  Re-swingweighted.

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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On 12/4/2021 at 11:04 PM, MacMan said:

If Macgregor still made clubs like they did 20 years ago I'd be all over them!

V-Foil VIP 1025 CM's Forged, S300 shafts, Cavity Back's 3-6, Pure Blades 7-PW +GW, SW & LW!!! BEST IRONS I HAVE EVER USED!! 

Schools out on the PXG 0211's,  good so far, but not 100% sure.... Still keep going back to my Cleveland CG1 Tour Irons.

Form Forged Japan Spec, 6-PW, DG S300... narrow sole  low bounce minimal offset - Almost as good as the Macs!!!

 

2 hours ago, BostonSal said:

One wonders if it would be worth it to MacMan and Stu to have vintage Mac irons completely rebuilt by somebody like The Iron Factory.  It would be at least as as expensive as buying something brand new, but it would be getting them gear that they really liked.  Repaired and welded.  Re-grooved.  Re-chromed.  Re-paint filled.  Re-shafted and gripped.  Re-swingweighted.

Sal makes a good point.  I've been playing my Mac VIP 1025M irons for the past month.  I'd forgotten how good they feel.  However, since I can't handle the S300 shafts anymore, I reshafted them with Nippon N.S. Pro Zelos 8 regular flex, adjusted the lie 2º flat, and strengthened the loft by 2º which made the PW 46º and 9i 41º (sorry Sal).  

They are still in pretty good shape, but one of these days I think I'd like to have them completely refinished.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/8/2021 at 12:31 AM, BostonSal said:

One wonders if it would be worth it to MacMan and Stu to have vintage Mac irons completely rebuilt by somebody like The Iron Factory.  It would be at least as as expensive as buying something brand new, but it would be getting them gear that they really liked.  Repaired and welded.  Re-grooved.  Re-chromed.  Re-paint filled.  Re-shafted and gripped.  Re-swingweighted.

Hey BostonSal, good point in terms of getting VIPs refinished  but the cost of doing it the UK is crazy! If I could find an OK set I may consider it. But since trying Cleveland CG1 Tour irons, also with S300 shafts I'm gonna stick with them. Uncannily accurate for dispersion, superb distance control. Form Forged feel almost as good as the VIPs. Surprisingly forgiving for Muscle Back Blade? 

Look nice too!!!

"They called it golf because all of the other four letter words were used" Raymond Floyd

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 11/25/2021 at 7:56 AM, Shapotomous said:

Why should you get new irons?? 

Asking that here is like a lion cub asking the pride why should we eat gazelles.....Because you CAN!!!!    🤣

Just kidding!  

What irons do you currently have?  My answer will be different if you have an old set of Ping Eye's versus a set of Sam Snead Blue Ridge Korvette's specials.  

Price doesn't equate to a quality club and what you can do with it.  Each of my Cleveland wedges were bought used for less than $30.  My Ping Anser & the various Bullseye wide flange putters from teh 70's & 80's were bought used for less than $25.  I still go back to them from time to time when the new Heppler needs a time out.

As mentioned newer clubs / shafts could be fit to your swing better than your current set and get you more consistent performance.  I like the suggestion of taking your gamers to a demo day or local fitter to get some comparison data.  Pay the fitter for their time and data then take the data and look for used clubs to match up.  If you are patient you can save a good bit of $$.  Besides it's just plain fun to try new stuff! 

Wow a Korvettes reference! That’s truly epic

Few people need new irons yet they

sell thousands every year lol

Edited by Deepred
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11 minutes ago, Deepred said:

Few people need new irons yet they

sell thousands every year lol

 

... I plead Guilty your honor.  I needed new irons when I played my first set, Spalding Executives with soles the size of a skateboard. Then I needed new irons after playing Tiger Shark Great White irons with a scalloped sole and a cavity you could grill burgers on. The roughly 50 or so sets I have played since then were not needed, only desired. 🤪

Driver:     :taylormade-small:  Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R
Fairway:  :cobra-small: Aerojet 3/5 ... Kai'li Blue 60R
Hybrids:  :ping-small:      430 Hybrid 22*... Steelfiber 780Hy 
                  :taylormade-small:  DHy #4 ... Diamana LTD 65r 
Irons:       :titleist-small:         '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:  :taylormade-small: Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:     :cobra-small:  Sport-60 33" 
Ball:           Maxfli     Maxfli Tour

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On 11/24/2021 at 2:07 PM, Peter-T said:

Hi,

I just started playing again after almost 30 years.  I have a relatively new driver (TaylorMade r7 quad), but my irons are over 40 years old.  I regripped them but steel shafts and heads are original.

I know a lot has changed in 40  years but what am I going to gain.  As I haven't played much in the last 30 years, I am not that good.  Now that I am retired I plan to play more often.

What are the benefits of the new technology?

If I can't replace the whole set at once, where do I begin?  I don't have a fairway wood but have pretty much everything else.  I bought a used 4 hybrid earlier this year just to have one in the bag.  My putter is also 40 years old and I think I only paid $25 for it back in 1980.

Thanks.

I started back recently after a 20 year absence.  Had Ping Eye 2's that had all rusted shafts.  So I went to Roger Dunn & got 2nd hand irons.  Honma Beres 07 2 star set (6-11, AW , SW).  Shafts are Nippon 750GH wrap tech.  Best thing I ever did.  The new irons rekindled my interest in clubs again.  Plus with the jacked lofts it feels that I am hitting further than ever.  Granted the Honma's  are 7-8* stronger.  But it is great hitting new clubs.  So by all means get new ones to inspire your journey.

TaylorMade Sim2 Max 10.5 Driver - Tensei AV Blue 55 R

Callaway 4+ Wood Steelhead XR - Tensei CK 65 R

Callaway 5 Wood Steelhead XR - Tensei CK 55 R

Callaway Heavenwood Steelhead XR - Tensei CK 55 R

TaylorMade Rescue Mid 3 (19*) - SteelFiber i95 R

TaylorMade Rescue Mid 4 (22*) - SteelFiber i95 R

TaylorMade Rescue Mid 5 (25*) - SteelFiber i95 R

Honma Beres irons (2020) 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, AW - Nippon 750GH Wrap Tech R 

Vokey SM8 56* D grind & Vokey SM8 54* bent to 52* D grind

Scotty Cameron California Monterey Putter

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  • 3 weeks later...

Your post caught my eye as I was at the same point a few months ago.  I had just retired at 58 and had not played golf seriously for 25 years.  I was still using some older Wilson Staff Dyna Power blades that were given to me in high school.  I still hit them well but have lost distance.  So my plan was to buy a new set after spending a lot of time and research and a club fitting.  But after significant thought, I decided I did not want to make the move to new and a fitting until my game stabilized.  I needed to shake off 25 years of rust in my game.  I was concerned any choice I made for new irons would possibly be wasted as my game changed and improved.  So I researched enough to decide a general club type and looked for used sets. You can find much out there at places like rock bottom golf, 2nd swing, among others.  I came across a good deal and bought a set of Titleist 718 AP2 irons in very good condition for just over $500.  I plan to use them to get my game closer to where it needs to be and then look at a fitting and new clubs.  I have found that I gained about 15 yards on a 7 iron by doing this with some degree of more forgiveness.  I suggest you consider the used route for a while so you can make a better decision before spending over $1300 on new ones.

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Used irons can be a great way to get a modern set of irons without the high price tag. I just picked up a 3-pw taylormade iron set, excellent condition, with the steel shafts I play, and grips in really good condition. $205 to my door.

Get new irons because you feel they will further add to your enjoyment of the game. 

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At 57 years old, I had my first fitting and new set of irons last season. A gift certificate for a fitting, part of which got credited to the price of new clubs helped seal the deal.  Up to then, I had gotten by quite well by occasionally buying used irons and saving the money.  That can be a reasonable solution.

I ended up with Mizuno 921 Hot Metal irons and I am very happy.  I am still adjusting to the increased distance.  I was over a lot of greens in the second half of the season!

:callaway-small: Rogue ST MAX, Project X Cypher Black 40 Graphite 5.5

image.png.5437ebe1f69b3330b39e21119440731c.png G425 Max 5-wood

:ping-small: G425 Max 7-wood

:mizuno-small: Hot Metal 921, 5-GW, UST Mamiya Recoil 95 Graphite

image.png.6d1f61c2c733ddfac4c3094a971ed4fb.png CBX ZipCore Chrome 52* 56* 60* Wedges

:wilson_staff_small: Infinite Buckingham putter

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  • 3 weeks later...

One thought I would add to the already great responses on this post is the fact that new clubs MAY cause you to want to practice and play more, therefore the cost benefit analysis might change. I know when I got a new putter I was at the practice green every other day for the first year I had it. For me it created some excitement and motivation to play the game more. Depending on your personality this may or may not happen to you, but something to think about.

Avid recreational golfer with a 9 handicap, looking to make major equipment upgrades this year

Cobra Golf Logo - LogoDixCobra Speed Pro X 10.5° with Aldila VS Proto 65g shaft

Cobra Golf Logo - LogoDixCobra S2 3-Wood 15° with Fujikura Regular flex 65g shaft

                                 Founders Club Hybrids (3 & 4) and Irons (5-PW) with Regular shaft

Cleveland Golf - Wikipedia          50° and 56° CG14 with Zip Groves and 8° & 11° bounce with Wedge Flex shaft

                                 60° REG.588 Tour Action with Wedge Flex shaft

Home - TaylorMade GolfTaylorMade Ghost TM 110 Putter 34"

undecided | DevpostUndecided on what Golf Ball to use this year

 

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On 11/24/2021 at 2:07 PM, Peter-T said:

Hi,

I just started playing again after almost 30 years.  I have a relatively new driver (TaylorMade r7 quad), but my irons are over 40 years old.  I regripped them but steel shafts and heads are original.

I know a lot has changed in 40  years but what am I going to gain.  As I haven't played much in the last 30 years, I am not that good.  Now that I am retired I plan to play more often.

What are the benefits of the new technology?

If I can't replace the whole set at once, where do I begin?  I don't have a fairway wood but have pretty much everything else.  I bought a used 4 hybrid earlier this year just to have one in the bag.  My putter is also 40 years old and I think I only paid $25 for it back in 1980.

Thanks.

Original question, “why should I get new irons”

answer… because your 40 year old clubs stink. Heads and shafts. They stink.

everything has changed in 40 years. The r7 driver is old too. Relatively speaking.

you didn’t specify finances. Are you rich or poor? Do you have a problem dropping $3k? Or would you rather keep it around $500? Or $50?

where to begin? Depends… what’s your golf goal? Are you/ were you any good? Did you shoot 90’s? 70’s? How often are you planning on playing?

you’ve got 4 pages of A to Z, of speculation…

give us some specifics about what you want to achieve, and what kind of dough you don’t mind spending. Otherwise you’re gunna get more of the same

 

:titleist-small: TSr2 on tensi blue stiff

:cobra-small: Speedzone 3-wood on Tensi blue S

:callaway-logo-1: Epic Max 5 and 7 woods on HZRDUS  Reg flex

:callaway-logo-1: Paradym 9 wood on HZRDUS reg flex

:taylormade-small: P770 / P790 combo set on Ventus R-6 shafts 6-AW

:mizuno-small:  T22 Denim Copper 54°, 58° on Kinetic X Trajectory 

:EVNROLL: ER3 or,

:edel-golf-1: E.A.S. #4   (“Fang” or “Adele”)
 

:titelist-small: ProV1x, or, Maxfli Tour X

:callaway-small: .Org 14 cart bag

Adidas Tour 360 , or Sketcher shoes

 

 

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