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Reshafting irons with graphite shafts


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When a person is installing new shafts and uses a plug on the shaft to prevent glue travelling up the inside of the shaft . The air compresses and forces the shaft out of the head , any tips to prevent this from happening? I would like to keep the plug in play as there is nothing worse than having epoxy break off and rattle around in the shaft .

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Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for the OP,

but I'm not sure if protocol calls for starting a new thread on a very similar subject or adding on to this one.

 

I apologize if I've guessed wrong.

 

I don't do my own work, but I'm curious how to restore swingweight when reshafting steel shafted irons and wedges with graphite.

Is lead tape the only way?  

 

Edited by BostonSal

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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I've never used a plug, but have you tried spinning the shaft as you insert it slooooowly?  

How often do you get the epoxy rattling around?  I don't think I've ever had it happen and I have put quite a few clubs together over 40 years.  I intentionally push some epoxy up into the shaft when slathering it on, maybe I am getting enough up there to give a strong enough bond that it doesn't break off.

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6 hours ago, Sparkee said:

When a person is installing new shafts and uses a plug on the shaft to prevent glue travelling up the inside of the shaft . The air compresses and forces the shaft out of the head , any tips to prevent this from happening? I would like to keep the plug in play as there is nothing worse than having epoxy break off and rattle around in the shaft .

In won't always airlock, but to be safe, you can try putting epoxy on 3/4 of the shaft and hosel to start and push the shaft straight into the hosel. That should give it a bit of room to release the air. Then twist the shaft around so that epoxy gets on all parts of the shaft and hosel. 

5 hours ago, BostonSal said:

 

Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for the OP,

but I'm not sure if protocol calls for starting a new thread on a very similar subject or adding on to this one.

 

I apologize if I've guessed wrong.

 

I don't do my own work, but I'm curious how to restore swingweight when reshafting steel shafted irons and wedges with graphite.

Is lead tape the only way?  

 

No, there are tip weights of varying diameters that can fit depending on the inner diameter of the shaft. I would say its more of a pain with graphite shafts, but it is doable to use tip weights. 

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16 hours ago, dlow206 said:

In won't always airlock, but to be safe, you can try putting epoxy on 3/4 of the shaft and hosel to start and push the shaft straight into the hosel. That should give it a bit of room to release the air. Then twist the shaft around so that epoxy gets on all parts of the shaft and hosel. 

No, there are tip weights of varying diameters that can fit depending on the inner diameter of the shaft. I would say its more of a pain with graphite shafts, but it is doable to use tip weights. 

Thanks.  I often wondered about that.

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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If you use enough beaded epoxy, there shouldn't be an issue of the epoxy breaking off in the head, regardless if it's steel or graphite.  I've been building clubs for over 30 years and have never had this happen.  

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I'm not a pro at this but I've been doing my own club work for about 25 years.

I don't use plugs to keep epoxy out of the tip. Never had an epoxy plug come loose of any size. I've had rattles in the shaft but they were quickly dispatched with a quick grip removal my air compressor.

I've seen various OEM plugs/tips that have a tiny hole going thru the center that were there, I imagine, to relieve the pressure built up by the exothermic reaction of the epoxy. In my early, naive days of club work, I had a head raise during curing because there was no where for the heat/pressure to go. Never let that happen again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As previously posted, work the epoxy and shaft slowly to allow the air to escape and you should not have an issue.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

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HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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