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When to (realistically) upgrade your driver?


TBS

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I know MGS says tech significant tech improves every 4 or 5 years. Makes sense to me to but realistically when do you all upgrade drivers?

I have had my setup for 3 years but got fit in the middle of taking lessons and my swing has much improved. Although I hit it fine and relatively accurate, at what point would you say it's time to see if a different setup would be produce better results?

 :taylormade-small: M6 12* Oban Kiyoshi Purple 65g stiff

:titelist-small: TS2 16.5* HL Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75g stiff

:ping-small:  G410 Hybrid 19* Tour stiff 

:ping-small: i210 KBS tour stiff 4-GW

:cleveland-small: 54* RTX Zipcore

:ping-small: 58* glide 3.0

:taylormade-small:  TP Black Copper Juno 34in

Oncore elixr or Snell MTBx

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If you're still in the process of taking lessons and making changes, I'd hold off a bit longer. It's always a good idea to reevaluate your equipment (regardless of age) after making any big changes to your swing because how you load the shaft and impact dynamics could change depending on what you're working on. 

Under normal circumstances I'll probably go about two seasons before making a driver change, but it doesn't mean I always purchase the latest and greatest (rarely does that happen actually). Sometimes I simply want to try a club I hadn't before and will look for NOS or used on eBay. If I had a bigger wallet, I'd go do a fitting and get whatever current model is recommended - probably within the same timeframe. 

Driver: :mizuno-small: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S
Fairway Wood: :mizuno-small: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S
Hybrid: :mizuno-small: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB
Irons: :bridgestone-small: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100
Wedges: :taylormade-small: Milled Grind 2 54* & 58* Dynamic Gold S200
Putter: :odyssey-small: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34"
Bag: :titleist-small: Players 5 Stand Bag
Ball: Maxfli Tour

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At the highest level, I think the 4-5 years horizon feels about right.  For me it's the combination of technology improvements, the desire to get a different look and a cost/benefit analysis.  Is $500-600 investment for X number of yards off the tee (minus yardage right and/or left off center) worth it for my game at this time?  Over a year ago I was fitted for a new driver in Orlando, Florida.  Of all the drivers, the Callaway Mavrik performed the best when compared with other candidates and my existing Ping G400.  For me the incremental 5+ yards were not worth the $100/yard investment.  So, I stuck with the G400. 

I guess that's the nice thing about fittings.  For a fraction of the cost of risky driver purchase, you can try out a large number of options and be able to make an educated decision. 

Ping G430 Max driver 10.5 degrees with an Alta Quick45 gram senior shaft
Callaway Epic 3 wood, Project X Evenflow Green 45 gram senior shaft  
Callaway GBB Epic Heavenwood, with a Mitsubishi Diamana 50 gram senior shaft
Ping G 20.5 degree 7 wood, with a stock Alta 65 gram senior shaft
Ping G 26 degree hybrid, stock Alta 65 gram senior shaft
Callaway Paradym X irons, 7-AW with Aldila Ascent Blue 50 graphite shafts
Edison wedges:  50, 55 and 60 degree, KBS Tour Graphite A flex shafts
Putters:  L.A.B. Direct Force 2.1 putter, 34.5" long, 67 degrees lie
 
2022 MGS Tester:  Shot Scope Pro XL+ with H4  
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As a general guideline I'd say technology improves to the point that it "could" be visible in your game after your driver is in the 3-5 yr old range.  Doesn't mean you have to upgrade by any means and obviously results may and will vary from person to person.

I'd say a better question is how often you should be fit for a driver.  I'd probably recommend the same time frame, but also with an addition of sooner if you have went through any big swing changes or body changes (working out, injury, swing speed training etc..)

FWIW I got fit for a Taylormade SLDR when they were released on a trip to The Kingdom through MGS.  Almost every year since then I've tried to kick it out of the bag with a new setup but inevitably I have always come back to the SLDR.  I have noticed lately that I've found newer drivers to maybe be a little longer, but nothing I've tried has been able to deliver on consistent distance like my SLDR.  

The key is that it's very well fit to my swing.  If you've been through a quality driver fitting and ended up with a well fit club then the distance gains from a new driver are going to be very minimal.  I think Golfspy T once said everybody can get that magical 10-15yd bump with a new driver.  But it's through being fit and we only get it once, everything after that is small incremental gains.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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Whenever you want. There’s nothing wrong with upgrading to upgrade. 
 

The other way is when there’s a driver you feel improves on your current setup. What that parameter is is dependent on you. If 2-3 yards is important and you achieve that then upgrade. If you find better dispersion and don’t lose distance then upgrade. If you find a better looking or sounding driver and there’s no improvement in numbers and want to upgrade then upgrade.

Your instructor should have a good idea of whether you are in an optimized setup or not. Also your swing is your swing and if you didn’t a fitting now while still taking lessons the setup from your fitting isnt going to significantly change in 6 months or a year

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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Everyone "upgrades" for different reasons.  Some just like new equipment,  some lost confidence in their driver and feel like they need a new club,  some evaluate new clubs whether personally or via professional fitting and find enough improvement to justify the expense.  

Me personally:  I have played a G400 Max since they came out and haven't found a reason to switch to something else.   Partially because I don't want to spend the money and partially because I haven't found anything better.   But I am planning on hitting my G400 on a GC Quad and comparing it to some of the newer drivers to see where it stands.  Based on those numbers I may think about switching....which could happen when the driver I want hits the used market.  

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

Backups:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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I only upgrade when I can see a significant benefit. But I'm the one who decides what significant is. I was fit into a G400 4 years ago and it is a fairway finder. But I also hit a very straight ball to begin with. I can pretty much place the ball in the fairway where I need it to be and my distance is not bad for my age (230 ish).  So why would I change? Well now that there are super light models coming out so I got fitted again in hopes to increase swing speed. Which equates to more distance. I was fitted into a Titleist TSi1 and the results were visible on a distance gain. It was outside on a range and I hit my G400 after warming up then hit the Titleist. So the dilemma is as mentioned by @hckymeyer, is the 15 to 20 yard gain I had worth $550.00? The next option would be, can I upgrade the shaft in my G400 and gain any additional distance? Or do I say, well the G400 is going into its 5th season. It's time and it has served me well and it will be my back up. 

The pondering has been going on since May. But I want to duplicate my testing again. Verify the data. The Trackman numbers at the time, verified that change would help. I have been slowly putting aside money in case I decide to pull the trigger. The club hasn't come down in price and the used market is only about $20 bucks different than new because Titleist is mid cycle.

Decisions, decisions.

:titleist-small: Driver, TSi 1 S Flex

:cobra-small: 3 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex

:cobra-small: 5 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 7 Wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 5 Hybrid King Tec MMT R Flex

:cobra-small: Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap)

:cobra-small: Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60*

:cobra-small: Agera 35"

image.png Ultralight 14-way Cart Bag

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I've been told it's a little longer than most others on here, in the 5-7 year range. That's about how long it takes for the miniscule year to year changes to accumulate and make a real difference. And this goes for all clubs, not just driver.

Take Dead Aim

Driver: PXG 0211 10.5* 

Fairway: Titleist 917 F3 15*

Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro Boxer Gold 18*

Irons: MacGregor MT-86 Pro

Wedges: Vokey 50/54/58

Putter: SeeMore X2 Costa del Mar

Ball: Srixon Z-Star

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When the old one breaks is usually a good time to get a new one..

At my club, I hit driver on four or five holes.

It's a low priority club for me, so I get one when I get new fairway woods.

It's sort of like going back to 1970 and buying a set of woods.

Louisville Golf Persimmon___2, 4, 5, 7-woods;    Epon AF-906___driving iron;   Titleist T100 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-irons; 

Titleist T100S___48°;     Edison 2.0___53º;     Titleist SM-9 (T)___58º;   Tad Moore Otto Hackbarth___putter;   

Titleist Pro V1x___ball

 

 

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I guess it really depends on a lot of factors. 

- Cost v. benefit

- taking lessons and improving swing

- Change in swing speeds

- Do you wanna have the latest and "greatest"

And not all new drivers are going to provide a benefit year over year. Some people hit older drivers as far as the newer ones. I recently saw a video of a guy hitting the past like 7yrs of Taylormade drivers and he hit the TM M1 driver as far as the SIM; it didnt change anything for him. 

Charleston, SC

HDCP 13.0

  • Driver: :taylormade-small:  M6 9* with 65g Stiff Mitsubishi Tensei Red shaft
  • 3 wood: :ping-small:  G425 stiff shaft
  • 5 wood: :taylormade-small: Stealth 2 stiff shaft
  • 4-gw irons:  :mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal w/ X-stiff KBS 130gr shafts (soft stepped)
  • Wedges: :taylormade-small: MG3 52, 56, 60 
  • Putter: 34" Scotty Cameron 12.5
  • Ball: :titelist-small: ProV-1x
  • Tracked By: :Arccos:

MGS Tester '20 - :ping-small: G710 Iron Review

MGS Tester '19 - :918457628_PrecisionPro:Precision Pro NX9 HD Pro laser rangefinder

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10 hours ago, Tom the Golf Nut said:

I only upgrade when I can see a significant benefit. But I'm the one who decides what significant is. I was fit into a G400 4 years ago and it is a fairway finder. But I also hit a very straight ball to begin with. I can pretty much place the ball in the fairway where I need it to be and my distance is not bad for my age (230 ish).  So why would I change? Well now that there are super light models coming out so I got fitted again in hopes to increase swing speed. Which equates to more distance. I was fitted into a Titleist TSi1 and the results were visible on a distance gain. It was outside on a range and I hit my G400 after warming up then hit the Titleist. So the dilemma is as mentioned by @hckymeyer, is the 15 to 20 yard gain I had worth $550.00? The next option would be, can I upgrade the shaft in my G400 and gain any additional distance? Or do I say, well the G400 is going into its 5th season. It's time and it has served me well and it will be my back up. 

The pondering has been going on since May. But I want to duplicate my testing again. Verify the data. The Trackman numbers at the time, verified that change would help. I have been slowly putting aside money in case I decide to pull the trigger. The club hasn't come down in price and the used market is only about $20 bucks different than new because Titleist is mid cycle.

Decisions, decisions.

You are probably the only person in golf who wouldn’t jump at making a purchase for 15-20 yards. That’s a huge difference and takes a long irons to a mid iron or a mid iron to a wedge.

As for the shafts if you were fitted for your current setup a shaft isn’t going to add 15+ yards. Probably not going to give you 5-10.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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26 minutes ago, Riverboat said:

A 5 yard gain is a no go for me. 15-20.... that's 2 less clubs into the green. Bye bye 550 bucks, hello new driver. 

 

3 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

You are probably the only person in golf who wouldn’t jump at making a purchase for 15-20 yards. That’s a huge difference and takes a long irons to a mid iron or a mid iron to a wedge.

As for the shafts if you were fitted for your current setup a shaft isn’t going to add 15+ yards. Probably not going to give you 5-10.

And that's the encouragement I needed 😃. I already have 3/4 of the money put aside. I want to time the delivery for the start of golf season. It would hurt to much to have to sit and look at it for the next 1 1/2 months. 

:titleist-small: Driver, TSi 1 S Flex

:cobra-small: 3 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex

:cobra-small: 5 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 7 Wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 5 Hybrid King Tec MMT R Flex

:cobra-small: Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap)

:cobra-small: Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60*

:cobra-small: Agera 35"

image.png Ultralight 14-way Cart Bag

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1 hour ago, TBS said:

I know MGS says tech significant tech improves every 4 or 5 years. Makes sense to me to but realistically when do you all upgrade drivers?

I have had my setup for 3 years but got fit in the middle of taking lessons and my swing has much improved. Although I hit it fine and relatively accurate, at what point would you say it's time to see if a different setup would be produce better results?

The biggest consideration is your budget. If you have the money, then you would upgrade drivers when a new model provides measurable improvement over your current club during a fitting and whether that improvement is worth the cost less any possible trade in value or resale. The "improvement" could be due to a variety of factors: swing changes, ball changes, equipment improvements. At the end of the day it is how many dollars are you willing to spend to achieve that improvement, if any?

:ping-small: G425 MAX 9* Driver

:cobra-small: Baffler Rail-H 3H-4H

:touredgeexotics: CBX 119 16* 2 hyb

:callaway-small: APEX CF19 6-AW

INDI Wedges 52, 56, 60 

:odyssey-small: Stroke Lab Tuttle / :edel-golf-1: EAS 2.0

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I would have never ordered my TSi3 had my TS3 weight cartidge not broken loose inside the head. I was perfectly happy with that driver and could see having that in the bag for at least a few years.

I was also content in buying a used 915D3 with the $100 gift certificate that Titleist gave me for my broken driver... Until i won $500 on a scratch off the night before i was going to pick up that 915. So i said WTH and ordered the TSi3... on Dec3... and still haven't gotten it yet, lol... but i don't plan on buying another driver for several years...

 

Though... If someone later this year or next decided they didn't like their Stealth and wanted to trade... I'd have to consider it😉

Edited by brutal brutus

Driver: :titelist-small: TSi3* 10° HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 60g 6.5 D2**

3 Wood: :titelist-small: TSi2 16.5° HZRDUS Smoke Black 70g 6.5 A1**

Hybrids:  :titelist-small: TSi3* 20°  EvenFlow White 90HY 6.5X A1** 

               :titelist-small: TSi2 24° HZRDUS Smoke Black 90HY 6.5 D4** 

Irons:  :titelist-small: 716 AP2 5-GW TT S300 (GW is S100) 

Wedges: :titelist-small: SM8 Jet Black 54°14F, 58°08M Wedge Flex

Putter: image.png.2cffbf846f1ed639b15f40483d11670d.png White Hot OG #7s

*All clubs with an adjustable weight, are set to neutral  **Hosel setting

Ball: Kirkland V2 or Chrome Soft Truvis Yellow

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That's always my internal battle.  Stick with what's working or buy that new toy.   My 3 or 4 year old Epic GBB is just fine per a fitting I did last summer but the price decrease on the PGX drivers is calling my name!

:callaway-small: Rogue ST MAX, Project X Cypher Black 40 Graphite 5.5

image.png.5437ebe1f69b3330b39e21119440731c.png G425 Max 5-wood

:ping-small: G425 Max 7-wood

:mizuno-small: Hot Metal 921, 5-GW, UST Mamiya Recoil 95 Graphite

image.png.6d1f61c2c733ddfac4c3094a971ed4fb.png CBX ZipCore Chrome 52* 56* 60* Wedges

:wilson_staff_small: Infinite Buckingham putter

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21 minutes ago, ClarkWGriswoldIII said:

That's always my internal battle.  Stick with what's working or buy that new toy.   My 3 or 4 year old Epic GBB is just fine per a fitting I did last summer but the price decrease on the PGX drivers is calling my name!

Similar for me!  I have Nike VR Pro circa 2012.  But it corrected a discirnible fade/slice.  I now tee off and don't really think at all,  confident it will find the fairway, or be just off!  15 more yards sounds appealing, but will  the ones that aren't in the fairway, now be further off the fairway, requiring more punch outs per round. I can fade it if I need to even though it is set for draw bias.

Will the different driver and shaft etc, bring back the "slice" that I've now put soundly in the rearview mirror, sure I could figure it out but is the aggravation of zeroing the new driver back in worth it.  Afterall the adjustable Nike VR Pro which  I won at an outing was literally like a miracle cure, I teed off with a 3 iron for the first 4 years I played the game, driver was a struggle, aiming left trying not to get into the trees and drift the ball back to the fairway.

I understand all of that was likely a technical flaw, but I am not a lesson, fitting, or technical golf guy.  I have reigned in the swing, the good the bad and the ugly of it, that I have, and I am really afraid that trying to get 15 more yards with a new driver, will open a pandora's box of problems!  Maybe I need to have a little more confidence that I am certainly a better golfer than I was 10 years ago! 

 

Driver: Cobra King Speedzone

Irons:  :callaway-small: Mavrik 4-GW

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: CG-14 56 & RTX 52

Putter:  :ping-small: Scottsdale Wolverine

Woods:  Gigagolf  3W, 2H, 3H

Ball:  Srixon Z-Star XV 

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12 hours ago, Tom the Golf Nut said:

 

And that's the encouragement I needed 😃. I already have 3/4 of the money put aside. I want to time the delivery for the start of golf season. It would hurt to much to have to sit and look at it for the next 1 1/2 months. 

Better that than to have to wait till august! Just do it! Oh and I love your “duplicate it” thought.

Mavrik Max Driver

M2 5W

818 hybrids

Steelhead XR Irons

ZipCore wedges

SeeMore PR M7X

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I upgrade every 4-5 years. I feel the technology over that timeframe really bumps up especially on forgiveness and adjustability. I just switched from a Titleist 917D2 to a Mizuno ST-G220 primarily for the adjustability of the weight combinations.  So far so good, I also picked up a little ball speed. 

 :mizuno-small: STZ 230 9.5 degree; :projectx: HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 60G, 6.0 Flex

:titelist-small: TSI 2, 3W 15 degrees

:titelist-small: TSI 2,  3 Hybrid 18 degrees

:titelist-small: TSI 2, 4 Hybrid 21 degrees

:titelist-small: T200 5 Iron

:titleist-small: T150 6 thru PW

:titelist-small: :vokey-small: SM8 48 & 52; SM9 58 degrees

:titelist-small: :cameron-small: Special Select Fastback 1.5 Putter; :EVNROLL: ER5v Hatchback Putter

:titelist-small: Pro V1-2023 & :maxfli: 2023 Tour Ball 

:titleist-small: Players 4 Plus Stand Bag
Bushnell Tour V5 Rangefinder 

:Arccos: Caddie 

:SuperSpeed:  Training System 

 

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The first driver I got professionally fit for was a Ping G30 LST model that replaced a Taylormade R11 that I always struggled to hit consistently.

Over the next few years, seduced by the latest and greatest, I tried subsequent new model drivers and they just couldn’t improve on the performance of the G30.  The only bad thing about the G30 was that it was loud.  It wasn’t until the Ping G410 LST came along that I switched because it delivered better performance. I did not try just Ping drivers I also tried Titleist, Taylormade, Callaway, Tour Edge and Cobra as well.  

A couple of months ago I went for a driver fitting with the intention of trying some different shafts in my current driver.  They didn’t have the G410 LST so I tried the newer G425 LST, the Taylormade SIM2, the Callaway Epic and a few others and I did not find one that performed better than my 10.5 degree G410 LST with the Alta CB shaft.

So I decided to do some experimenting on my own by trying some different shafts with my current driver.

My swing speed is right at 100 MPH.  All the shafts are Stiff flex and have similar weights around 60 grams except the KBS at 70 grams. The shafts are: an Oban Kiyoshi HB, Aldila Xtorsion Copper, KBS TD, and a Grafalloy Prolaunch Blue Supercharged.  All of these shafts are also counterbalanced like my stock Alta CB except for the KBS shaft.  I bought some Ping 410 adapters to go with the shafts.

The KBS shaft was purchased for a fairway wood experiment but it had the Ping tip on it already so I tried it too, but it was not a good fit for me with my driver. 

As part of the driver experiment a few different screw in weights were purchased so that I could try lighter and heavier weights in different configurations to obtain different swing weights.

 

I ended up switching to the Grafalloy shaft with a lighter screw in weight than standard and with the adjustable hosel loft setting turned down 1 degree because that is what performed the best for me.  Slightly higher ball speed, better launch, decent spin, more carry and greater total distance while giving me equal dispersion.  A bonus is that it is also the least expensive shaft of the bunch!

In researching the Grafalloy shaft I discovered that the Handcrafted Project X LZ has a similar EI bend profile but was made of higher end materials and since I have one Ping adapter left I have bought a shaft off of EBay to try as well.  I believe the comparable current model shaft with a similar butt stiff, soft mid, stiff tip shaft bend profile and also counterbalanced would be the Project X Hazrdus Smoke RDX Blue.

My total outlay for the shafts are less than I would have spent on a new driver and now that I’ve narrowed it down I will likely sell off the shafts that didn’t fit me the best to recoup some of my costs to put towards something else.

You may be able to achieve similar results by optimizing your current driver.

 

 

Tour Edge C723 8.0 MCA Tensei AV Blue Xlink 65S

Cobra LTDx 3W lofted to 16.5 Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Tour Edge E723 21 degree MCA Tensei AV Blue 65 S

Cobra LTDx 24 degree 5 hybrid Fujikura Fuel 85g Stiff

Corey Paul - 5-PW Japan Forged Minimalist Blades KBS $-Taper 120 Stiff

Corey Paul Functional Art 52, 56 & 60

Odyssey O Works Black #7 with BGT Stability Tour Shaft, SuperStroke Traxion 3.0 & 75g CounterCore

Bridgestone Tour BRX or MaxFli Tour

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Bushnell V4

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I upgrade my driver every one or two years because I want to and usually get the new one as they bring out something new. I play more than half my games with hickory or classic clubs and have so many drivers from the early 1900’s to my recently acquired SIM2 Max.

In my opinion chasing distance is not the best strategy especially as we age. I am now in my late sixties and have learned that keeping the drive in play is more important than distance. A smooth tempo and a club that suits your game breeds confidence. A controlled swing also reduces the chance of injury.

Back to the topic. Get a new one when it suits you, but have realistic expectations. Personally, I would not make a decision based on hitting into a bay. I have a trusted fitter that knows my swing and has helped me for almost twenty years. He and I know what works best for me and can pick the shaft and head due to his knowledge of the shafts properties. For me, I learned that a driver needs to be at least D3 and I prefer a heavier shaft. By the way, the SIM2 Max has been a fairway finder, just what I wanted. I have won a lot of toonies ($2 coin) from guys chasing distance.

I like nice shiny toys like anyone else and it is fun with a new toy whether it is hickory, classic steel or modern.

 

Play everything from the hickory era to modern equipment.

 

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I recently reshafted my F9 for the second time. First time I researched all the information I needed and bought my shaft online and had it installed, loved it. Being in my 60s my swing changed enough that I was wondering if a lighter shaft would benefit me. I did a fitting and was correct in my assumption, so even after reshafting it twice, I still saved a little instead of writing a big check for one club. 

Cobra F9 driver and 3 wood, Mitsubishi Tensei CK Blue regular flex 60 shafts in both. PXG 5 wood, Diamana S+ regular flex 60 shaft. Ben Hogan 4-PW irons, regular flex Recoil shafts, 70g. Ben Hogan Equalizer wedges, 48, 52, and 56 degrees, Recoil shafts. Scotty Cameron Futura 5S putter. Ping Pioneer bag. Garmin G80 range finder. Maxfli tour golf balls. 

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I finally purchased a “new” driver mid 2021 a brand new still in the plastic SLDR TP. My previous driver was a Ping Rapture V2. Honestly, on the monitor and course there is almost zero difference. Always felt though that having another option to switch to helps keep my driver in good spirits knowing it can replaced at any given moment. Lol

My WITB:

Driver - Taylormade SLDR TP 10*

3 Wood - Tour Edge CB2 15*
Irons - Wilson Staff V2 4-pw

Wedges - Wilson Staff 54* & 58*
Putter - Scotty Cameron GoLo 3

Ball - Wilson Staff Duo Spin or Soft

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There is no right answer. If you want a new driver every year and can easily afford it, why not? If you want to spend less, a new driver every 4-6 years is probably just as effective in terms of scoring and reasonably keeping up with tech. I know guys with 20+ year old drivers, even a couple with persimmons, who are perfectly happy with that choice too. We usually wager $5 a round, so we don’t need the latest tech… 🥴

  • Titleist TSR2 11° HZRDUS Red CB 50 6.0 w Lamkin UTx Midsize
  • Titleist TSR2 16.5º HZRDUS Red 60 CB 6.0 & TSR2 21º HZRDUS Black 4G 70 6.0 w Lamkin UTx Midsize
  • Mizuno JPX923 HMP 4-GW, T22 54.12WS, T22 58.04DC w Lamkin ST+2 Hybrid Midsize
  • Evnroll EV5.3
  • Maxfli Tour & ProV1
  • Ping Pioneer - MGI Zip Navigator AT
  • Payntr X 002 LE, Ecco Biom C4, FJ DryJoys
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I buy almost exclusively gently used equipment so upgrading for me is inexpensive and often break even. Just upgraded my Ping G400 LST to the G410 LST and installed a Veylix Mansion shaft. The G400 is available. I expect this upgrade will cost me $100 max. When I upgraded to the G400 from a 2017 Taylormade M1 I made $25. I keep the old club long enough to make sure I like the new one (tried an M2 prior to the M1, hated it, sold it for a $50 profit) so every upgrade has been worth it.

Short game savant, driving disaster...

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On 1/15/2022 at 5:52 AM, Middler said:

There is no right answer. If you want a new driver every year and can easily afford it, why not? If you want to spend less, a new driver every 4-6 years is probably just as effective in terms of scoring and reasonably keeping up with tech. I know guys with 20+ year old drivers, even a couple with persimmons, who are perfectly happy with that choice too. We usually wager $5 a round, so we don’t need the latest tech… 🥴

+1 on this....

Although if you win 100 of those matches in a row you could buy a new driver......🤔

Modern Bag:  :ping-small: G410 LST 10.5*, Hzrdus Smoke RDX 6.5 Flex;   :titelist-small:  915F 3w, Diamana S+ 70 S flex;  Snake Eyes 18* 2h, 23* 4h & 27* 5h; :mizuno-small: JPX 900 Forged 6 - PW, PX LZ 6.0;  Edison 2.0 49*, KBS Tour 120 S; Edison 2.0 53*, KBS Tour 120 S ;  Edison 2.0 57* KBS Tour 120 S;   :ping-small:  Heppler Fetch;  Ball - :Snell: MTB-X; Bag - Jones MyGolfSpy Edition! 

Shot Scope H4, MG600 Rangefinder

Classic Bag:  Driver - :wilson_staff_small: Persimmon; 3w - :Hogan: Speed Slot; 5w - :wilson_staff_small: Tour Block; 3 - pw - :wilson_staff_small: Dynapower; sw - Ram Tom Watson;  putter - bullseye standard or flange.

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I agree with @Riverboat who stated that upgrade should happen when you see a significant distance increase or improvement in dispersion.   We are in an era where the improvements in driver performance are incremental at best year over year.   When new models come out, I look at it as an opportunity to see if the new drivers will fit me better because it matches my swing better not because I expect it to magically give me more yards.

Improvements are hard to come by because unless you want a non-conforming driver, maximum ball speed is capped by the rules of golf.   150mph ball speed for 100mhp club head speed.     Instead manufacturers are working on keeping that max speed across the larger part of the face and providing models/adjustability so you can hit the right spin/launch window to maximize distance. 

 

 

 

 

 

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