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Grip Solvent VS Mineral Spirits


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Let me start out by saying that I am not a club builder. I have however re gripped around 100 clubs with zero issues. I have always used “grip solvent”. I re gripped a putter this winter and used mineral spirits as i was out of “solvent”, and they are the “same thing”. I used the same roll of tape as always. Today while putting i noticed my grip had twisted. I was shocked that i was able to twist it back. Out of curiosity, i pulled the grip all the way off in about 5 minutes of twisting 🤯. The tape underneath was still gooey. Its been on for 2 months. Clubs have been in my conditioned garage all winter. I regripped a driver that same day, with the same tape, but used the last of my “grip solvent” on that one. Checked today, and its on super tight as youd expect. Any insight from any of you?

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Mineral spirits does not evaporate like grip solvent so it stays gooey for months and months.  If you run out of solvent, use a small amount of gas.

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This is interesting. After running out of grip solvent many years ago I read that paint thinner and mineral spirits are good substitutes. Other than the odor being a downside the information I read thru different golf sites states that it only takes about 3 hours to totally evaporate / dry.  I have been using Jasco paint thinner for over 10 years without any issues. I just checked the can I finished and the ingredients were 100% mineral spirits. When I regrip clubs I usually do it in the evening and they are fine for play the next morning. 

If it was an issue I would have thought it would have shown up by now. I haven't had a problem but now you have me wondering! 

 

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3 hours ago, Shapotomous said:

Mineral spirits does not evaporate like grip solvent so it stays gooey for months and months.  If you run out of solvent, use a small amount of gas.

Its interesting because “Grip Solevent” is mineral spirits and lots of people on the internet talk about using mineral spirts.

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Yes I use mineral spirits for regripping and the club can be played with in an hour as long as you do not use too much, I buy it by the gallon from local home improvement store.

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I've used odorless mineral spirits for about 40 years with no "twisting" or slipping issues whatsoever.

I found the label on the Golfworks product interesting in that the front said naptha (lighter fluid) and the back said mineral spirits followed by a word that might well mean "hey, dummy, this is the naptha version of mineral spirits...".

I've used naptha as lighter fluid for 50 years as well, generics for the win!

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1 hour ago, Riverboat said:

It's also the best thing I've found for removing sticker goo from guitars. What a versatile liquid. 

And I use acetone on cheesecloth to "polish" ferrules if I have to turn them down to get the diameter I need.  That takes practice to perfect.

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7 hours ago, Shapotomous said:

Mineral spirits does not evaporate like grip solvent so it stays gooey for months and months.  If you run out of solvent, use a small amount of gas.

The pro at my first golf course always used gas to install grips...it was always available.  I made sure I wasn't anywhere near him when he did it.  

I used Golfworks grip solvent for many years; still have 1/2qt left that hasn't been used in 3-4 years since I started putting grips on with my air compressor.  I'll never go back to the mess.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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18 minutes ago, Kenny B said:

The pro at my first golf course always used gas to install grips...it was always available.  I made sure I wasn't anywhere near him when he did it.  

I used Golfworks grip solvent for many years; still have 1/2qt left that hasn't been used in 3-4 years since I started putting grips on with my air compressor.  I'll never go back to the mess.

I prefer using the air compressor method as well, at least for my own clubs.

For customers, I use Brampton solvent because its probably the least toxic grip solvent choice. 

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Maybe there are different compositions of mineral spirits?  I use it for cleaning paint brushes often and can have an inch or so in an open jar for months and it does not evaporate.  I did try using it many years ago on a couple grips and they stayed in twisty mode for a few days before I gave up and redid them with gas.  

Modern Bag:  :ping-small: G410 LST 10.5*, Hzrdus Smoke RDX 6.5 Flex;   :titelist-small:  915F 3w, Diamana S+ 70 S flex;  Snake Eyes 18* 2h, 23* 4h & 27* 5h; :mizuno-small: JPX 900 Forged 6 - PW, PX LZ 6.0;  Edison 2.0 49*, 53*, 57* KBS Tour 120 S;   :ping-small:  Heppler Fetch;  Ball - :Snell: MTB-X; Bag - Jones MyGolfSpy Edition! 

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Well im stumped. Picked up some new “solvent” yesterday. Re gripped club. 14 hours later the grip slid right off with zero effort. 🤯. I have used the same components near 100 times and never had a single grip do this. They have always stuck super tight. I did a wedge the same time as i did the first grip that came off, the wedge grip is on tight. Its even a different putter grip this go around and still came off. Tape stays on shaft but grips slides off. Im gonna try again when i get home with as little solvent as possible and see if that does it. If that doesnt work i guess ill try new tape. The roll ive been using has been kept inside a conditioned space and is 2 years old. Cant believe it would be bad…….

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I've used mineral spirits and lighter fluid for 20 years with no issues. Grips never come off or twist once their on. Used a number of different brands too. The only thing I ever noticed was when I put the Super Stroke grip on my putter. I had to use considerably more spirits than usual.

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11 hours ago, DiscipleofPenick said:

I've used mineral spirits and lighter fluid for 20 years with no issues. Grips never come off or twist once their on. Used a number of different brands too. The only thing I ever noticed was when I put the Super Stroke grip on my putter. I had to use considerably more spirits than usual.

Yeah, there's a lot less flexibility around the core of the oversize putter grips than a regular club grip so the tape and the grip's internal surface both benefit from being very well lubricated with whatever the solvent of choice happens to be.

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Well i stopped and grabbed a new roll of tape on my way home. Re gripped it, for the 3rd time, with new tape. 🤞 The new tape doesnt really feel any different but what do i know. Will see if its stuck on there tomorrow AM.

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Alright… WHAT THE *%!*%#!!!!!!!! New tape, new solvent, 15 hours at 70°, and the grip slides right off. Its like the solvent doesnt evaporate/dry. I used barely any. Coated inside of grip and thats it.

Im just gonna hockey tape it. Screw this 🤣

Edited by Tyler86

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1 hour ago, Kenny B said:

Sounds like a poor fit.

What's the shaft diameter?  What grip?  What's the grip's inside diameter?

Its the same grip i had on there last year that was stuck on ridiculously tight. I changed it on a whim to a pistol and then decided to go back. The pistol, that was the first one that slid off, is the factory grip for this putter.

after 15 hours of “cure” time, when the grip slides off, the tape is still gooey, not even a little tacky.

Edited by Tyler86

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Thought about this all day. Checked a wedge that i gripped recently when i got home. No matter how hard i try i cant get it to spin. Its the same tape as what i used with the ones in question and a different “grip solvent, but still a solvent and not something generic. So i guess the real variable is the shaft/grip diameter as @Kenny B brought up. The factory grip that i put BACK on, was the first to twist after about 7 weeks. When i removed it originally (i took it off on purpose a year ago for a different grip)  i didnt notice if they had put multiple tape layers on it or something. The Super Stroke that ive had issues with now, i had built up with tape on part of it due to length of grip and shaft taper. Im wondering if i had put more layers on last time. So tonight i put as much tape as i could fit under the grip and used as little grip solvent as possible. If this doesnt work, im gonna  try isopropyl alchohol or lighter fluid. 

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14 minutes ago, Tyler86 said:

Thought about this all day. Checked a wedge that i gripped recently when i got home. No matter how hard i try i cant get it to spin. Its the same tape as what i used with the ones in question and a different “grip solvent, but still a solvent and not something generic. So i guess the real variable is the shaft/grip diameter as @Kenny B brought up. The factory grip that i put BACK on, was the first to twist after about 7 weeks. When i removed it originally (i took it off on purpose a year ago for a different grip)  i didnt notice if they had put multiple tape layers on it or something. The Super Stroke that ive had issues with now, i had built up with tape on part of it due to length of grip and shaft taper. Im wondering if i had put more layers on last time. So tonight i put as much tape as i could fit under the grip and used as little grip solvent as possible. If this doesnt work, im gonna  try isopropyl alchohol or lighter fluid. 

Worth a shot.  Most putter grips are .580 ID, I assume that's so they fit very snug.  You will need enough solvent to activate the grip tape.

I once tried the water-activated grip tape from Golfworks; it's crap, and the only install that slipped on me.

All this is why I went to installing grips with an air compressor; easy on, easy off and they have never slipped.  Putter grips are a little trickier, especially if they have a collar but they can be done.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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12 hours ago, Tyler86 said:

Its the same grip i had on there last year that was stuck on ridiculously tight. I changed it on a whim to a pistol and then decided to go back. The pistol, that was the first one that slid off, is the factory grip for this putter.

after 15 hours of “cure” time, when the grip slides off, the tape is still gooey, not even a little tacky.

Please excuse my reading comprehension skills but are these re-used grips?   Is there residual goo on the inside of these grips from when they were first removed?  Could this be why you aren't getting good contact? 

Got one of these things?   

image.png.7d1a5b44b5ee4a49868b0b6993376f1d.png

 

 

Edited by SlowNLow
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Not sure the reason, but I have found some grips are just more prone to slipping than others, especially when put on with air.  I recently put a set of Lamkin Tour Sonars on an iron set with air and the grips were fine on the bottom half but the top half twisted.  I also have the same problem with a CP2 Pro grip on my driver that I haven't touched since it came new from PXG.  Curious if it has something to do with the more rigid rounded butt caps on those two grips compared to the typical "regular" rubber on a tour velvet or MCC type grip.  It seems like maybe it the cap keeps the rubber from shrinking as much as it otherwise would and creating that firm friction/adhesion.

Could be the same thing going on with OPs superstroke as those have a very rigid end (or at least the counter core models do)

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1 hour ago, SlowNLow said:

Please excuse my reading comprehension skills but are these re-used grips?   Is there residual goo on the inside of these grips from when they were first removed?  Could this be why you aren't getting good contact? 

Got one of these things?   

image.png.7d1a5b44b5ee4a49868b0b6993376f1d.png

 

 

I would think its this as well. If there is some residual crap in there, the tape may not work as well. 

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
Wedges:ping-small: Glide 4.0 54 and 58
Putter:  :ping-small: PLD Custom Kushin 4

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1 hour ago, SlowNLow said:

Please excuse my reading comprehension skills but are these re-used grips?   Is there residual goo on the inside of these grips from when they were first removed?  Could this be why you aren't getting good contact? 

Got one of these things?   

image.png.7d1a5b44b5ee4a49868b0b6993376f1d.png

 

 

Na. The SuperStroke was a new grip. Ive used that exact one on this putter before with no issues getting it to stick. 

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On 3/13/2022 at 7:40 PM, dlow206 said:

I prefer using the air compressor method as well, at least for my own clubs.

For customers, I use Brampton solvent because its probably the least toxic grip solvent choice. 

I use air too because I can easily blow grips on and off. As many vintage clubs as I mess with it is economical for me. I use just a little charcoal lighter fluid which is cheap. I think it is mostly Naptha which dries quickly. I just lube the mouth of the grip and shoot it on. Naptha dries quickly. In fact I can take a club literally in less than a minute out to my mat and hit it. I keep charcoal starter on hand anyhow and it is cheaper than mineral spirits. 

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8 hours ago, BIG STU said:

I keep charcoal starter on hand anyhow and it is cheaper than mineral spirits.

Yes, and I usually just use rubbing alcohol to do the same thing. Have even used Windex and it still works fine. Can use the club immediately with no drying time.

Will say that the leather grips are much more difficult to install - guess the leather does not want to expand as easily but still no major issue just using a $30 auto inflater from Home Depot. Don't need a big compressor.

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  • 2 months later...

First grip I ever did I'd forgot the solvent so used WD40, it's used to loosen tight rusty nuts and it works fine. I've never had a grip move so I've always used it, and I'm out so..

I’m a hacker who loves nothing more than to change how I play, be that grips shafts and heads its all fair game lol…

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  • 4 weeks later...

I used solvents for years but it was becoming not too swift for my lungs.  Now I use rubber cement and 2 inch masking tape- since the grips I use are rubber too the stick is great, even for the higher torque clubs.    It's not much messier than solvents but adhering is not an issue.  I got the idea from a gallon of 'Grip-Loc' from the Orlando golf show about 20 years ago and after analyzing the contents concluded it was rubber cement. 

Good hand action comes from good body action.     

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/24/2022 at 5:59 AM, Bang60 said:

First grip I ever did I'd forgot the solvent so used WD40, it's used to loosen tight rusty nuts and it works fine. I've never had a grip move so I've always used it, and I'm out so..

I have done that in a pinch--- I also use WD-40 to take off lead tape residue. 

Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex- 5W TM V-Steel Fubuki 60r--- 7W TM V-Steel UST Pro Force Gold 65R----- 9 W TM V Steel TM MAS stiff---- Irons 2015 TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R--- GW Callaway Mack Daddy 2 52* shaft unknown junk pile refugee. SW Callaway PM Grind 56*  Modified sole grind--- KBS Tour Wedge-- LW Vokey 58* SM5 L grind--- Putter Ping B90I Broom Stick 

 

 

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10 hours ago, BIG STU said:

I have done that in a pinch--- I also use WD-40 to take off lead tape residue. 

Yeah I can't remember how many different ways I've used wd-40, I started in my teens when I needed to on my bike lol. Great stuff..

I’m a hacker who loves nothing more than to change how I play, be that grips shafts and heads its all fair game lol…

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