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Looking for a good Callaway Epic Max driver


IONEPUTT
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After doing some research on drivers with adjustable hosels I've decided to get a Callaway Epic Max driver. Right handed with either 10.5* or 12* of loft. NOT the Max LS as i do not need a low spin design. If you have a Callaway Epic Max in good condition and would be willing to sell it please let me know. I've been doing some online looking and most drivers being sold do NOT come with the head cover for some reason. Seems like a lot of golfers collect the fool things for some reason. I'd like to get a use driver with both the head cover and the wrench if possible. Please let me know if you have one for sale when you get a chance.  Thanks in advance for your help in this. 

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I just did a Trade-In check to see what a used 2012 Epic Max would be worth at trade-in and I got a figure of $151.20.  That was at Dick's Sporting Goods. Not sure what other stores might be willing to offer but it's a good idea of what a used Callaway would be worth if you were to trade it in. I"m looking for one with a Stiff or X flex shaft should you have one you would be willing to sell. IF you have one in good condition I'd be willing to go above that $151 price Dick's would offer. Let me know if you have on for sale please. 

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I don’t have one and definitely don’t want to tell you what you should spend but from my experience last years driver will go for substantially more than the trade in value. Even g400’s from a few years ago go for north of $200. I hope you find something but don’t be surprised if guys get scared off from offering knowing that is where you may be at price wise.

 Just a quick check on eBay the average sale price for the epic max is $281.50

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What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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I have seen a few Epic Max drivers on E-Bay sell for just over $200, so I can hope to find one from a person that does NOT want to hassle with selling a club on E-Bay. And as we all know E-Bay charges a few to sell a club, so the seller does NOT get the full sales price, so that can be figured into the mix on what an Epic Max is worth when sold.  And I'm open to buying just a head without a shaft if that would bring the price down to what I'd be willing to pay. Since I plan the re-shaft the head anyway, just a head and head cover would work fine for me. Most of the Epic drivers for sale on E-Bay are the LS model which is not a good match for my game, which is why I'm looking to pick up the regular version of the Epic Max and not the LS. 

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Have to agree with blankngold here.  Trade-in values are in no way indicative of the price you can expect to pay for a used club.  Trade-in prices are what a retailer will give you so that they can turn a (large) profit after all of their overhead, etc.  For example, a new Epic which is still available in stores everywhere is $400+tax and a used one at 2nd swing is $350 in good condition.  Reality is a used one via private party would probably be $250-350 depending on the condition and whether a shaft is included or not. 

You may have found some on Ebay around $200, but imo the chances of a counterfeit club are substantially higher when buying from there unless you're buying from large reputable seller, in which case they aren't selling it for $200.  The Epic will probably be a little cheaper than other used clubs due to all of the free ones that were put onto the market after the US open contest last year but that would probably only be like a $20 difference or so. 

My observations from watching the used club market both here and on another much larger forum's classifieds section is if you can do $50-100 less than 2nd swing you're getting a good deal.  Occasionally a beat up club will show up for less or someone will try to offload one at a dirt cheap price but those usually get sold in 10 min or less so you need to be Johnny on the spot.  I have seen a couple Mavrik drivers (head only) go for the price you're looking for but that definitely isn't the norm and haven't seen any 2021 Epic's anywhere near that cheap.

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7 hours ago, IONEPUTT said:

I have seen a few Epic Max drivers on E-Bay sell for just over $200, so I can hope to find one from a person that does NOT want to hassle with selling a club on E-Bay. And as we all know E-Bay charges a few to sell a club, so the seller does NOT get the full sales price, so that can be figured into the mix on what an Epic Max is worth when sold.  And I'm open to buying just a head without a shaft if that would bring the price down to what I'd be willing to pay. Since I plan the re-shaft the head anyway, just a head and head cover would work fine for me. Most of the Epic drivers for sale on E-Bay are the LS model which is not a good match for my game, which is why I'm looking to pick up the regular version of the Epic Max and not the LS. 

I wish you luck sir. 

 

 

 

What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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I went to Golf Galaxy last week and they had about a dozen used Epic Max drivers in their used club racks. So the fact is that some golfers do trade them in and get a lot less than what you are saying is what they go for online. And as I stated last post here not all golfers want to hassle with selling a used club online, they just trade them in, And that is the golfer I'm hoping to find on this site with a good used Callaway Epic Max to sell. May not happen but I'm willing to make the effort to see what can be found here. If the only way I can get an Epic Max for the price I'm willing to pay is just buying a head, then I'm willing to go that route. Since every OEM driver I've seen online comes with a cheap low quality shaft, buying just the head is not a bad way to go. I intend to replace the low quality OEM shaft with a much better after market shaft anyway, buying just the head is very much an option for me. I've looked online for about 2 weeks now and every driver listed has a high torque shaft that is pretty much worthless to me. I'd be willing to bet that those cheap OEM shafts are the main reason I'm seeing so many one year old drivers listed for sale online. They just don't perform very well as they come from the factory. And let's not forget what I posted before, what a club sells for is NOT what the seller gets, after they pay the fees they have to pay to the online dealers. E-Bay doesn't do there part for free as we all know. 

Fact is I'm NOT in any hurry to build up a new driver so I can wait as long as it takes to get what I want at a price I'm willing to pay. I do not NEED a new driver so if no one is willing to sell me a use one at a decent price, I can live with what I have, which is much better than what the OEM's are selling off the rack with those low end shafts. 

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7 hours ago, IONEPUTT said:

I went to Golf Galaxy last week and they had about a dozen used Epic Max drivers in their used club racks. So the fact is that some golfers do trade them in and get a lot less than what you are saying is what they go for online. And as I stated last post here not all golfers want to hassle with selling a used club online, they just trade them in, And that is the golfer I'm hoping to find on this site with a good used Callaway Epic Max to sell. May not happen but I'm willing to make the effort to see what can be found here. If the only way I can get an Epic Max for the price I'm willing to pay is just buying a head, then I'm willing to go that route. Since every OEM driver I've seen online comes with a cheap low quality shaft, buying just the head is not a bad way to go. I intend to replace the low quality OEM shaft with a much better after market shaft anyway, buying just the head is very much an option for me. I've looked online for about 2 weeks now and every driver listed has a high torque shaft that is pretty much worthless to me. I'd be willing to bet that those cheap OEM shafts are the main reason I'm seeing so many one year old drivers listed for sale online. They just don't perform very well as they come from the factory. And let's not forget what I posted before, what a club sells for is NOT what the seller gets, after they pay the fees they have to pay to the online dealers. E-Bay doesn't do there part for free as we all know. 

Fact is I'm NOT in any hurry to build up a new driver so I can wait as long as it takes to get what I want at a price I'm willing to pay. I do not NEED a new driver so if no one is willing to sell me a use one at a decent price, I can live with what I have, which is much better than what the OEM's are selling off the rack with those low end shafts. 

Another alternative if you really want an epic max is to look at the Callaway pre-owned site, they occasionally run sales and you may be able to get one on there for less than some other used options.

Also, FWIW, there is nothing wrong or cheap about the PX Hzrdus im10 shaft that comes in the epic max, it's a $300 shaft if you wanted to buy one.  It may not work for you, but it does work well for a lot of people.  Pretty much every manufacturer now includes a couple of premium "aftermarket" shafts as a stock no charge option with their drivers & fwy.  Cobra is offering the RDX blue this year or the AV White Raw and had the Motore X F1 or F3 last year and the rogue silver before that. Ping will give you an AV Raw Orange in the driver or fwy for free as well.  Each manufacturer just cuts different deals each year.  If you want an AV orange from Callaway it's $250 but free with ping and they are all "real deal" shafts and not the made for options.  The only big made for option out there right now is the non-velocore Ventus that TM and now Callaway are offering. 

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I checked the specs for the PX Hardus im10 shaft and the torque rating is way too high to be a good shaft for most anyone. High torque shafts give a much wider left to right shot pattern if your swing speed is over about 60, so that means it's pretty much useless for any good golfer looking to find the fairway. I've done the testing and I know from experience this is true. 

And if you really believe you are getting a $300 shaft when you buy a $500 driver you are dead wrong and just kidding yourself. There are dozens of articles online that will tell you the same thing if you care to do the research. 

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You can expect to pay $250 minimum for good condition Epic Max on EBay and that would be a great deal.  I know because I had been hunting for a Epic Max LS variety for a several weeks on Ebay until I picked one up on Ebay last week.   It had a senior flex shaft, but I just swapped it with the gamer shaft from my Mavrik.

I traded in the Mavrik with the senior shaft to Callaway for $175 and picked up a 'new' Odyssey OG #1 for $2 after the trade.   At that time, I noticed that the Epic Max trade in value was $240.   I check today after reading this thread and saw that it was $200.   Callawaypreowned.com routinely has the best trade in values.

 

 

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Good luck on finding an Epic Max under $275 - $300

Just recently I sold my old Rogue for $200, my old Mavrik Sub Zero, head only for $200 and those are older generation club. Hello I sold my g410 with stock alta shaft for $300. 

You could find an old epic flash or GBB Epic in your price range, but not last year's model. 

Callaway Preowned is a great reference for what people will sell for. The cheapest they have listed is around $330 in the lowest condition rating

Good luck on your search

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On 3/15/2022 at 9:36 PM, IONEPUTT said:

I checked the specs for the PX Hardus im10 shaft and the torque rating is way too high to be a good shaft for most anyone. High torque shafts give a much wider left to right shot pattern if your swing speed is over about 60, so that means it's pretty much useless for any good golfer looking to find the fairway. I've done the testing and I know from experience this is true. 

And if you really believe you are getting a $300 shaft when you buy a $500 driver you are dead wrong and just kidding yourself. There are dozens of articles online that will tell you the same thing if you care to do the research. 

Either that or torque rating is an almost meaningless number because there is no standard on measuring it and you have no idea what you're talking about.  I'm not a fitter but clearly have done more research on the topic than whatever anecdotal evidence you have figured out for yourself.  The swing speed of the average golfer is under 100 mph and if you think that someone who swings in the 80-90 range needs an ultra low torque shaft then feel free to believe that but know that you are wrong. 

I suppose Mitsubishi's entire Blueboard line is trash as well then and can't possibly work for any golfer out there?  It's torque rating is even higher yet somehow it's one of the longest running series of shafts used by a ton of "better" players.

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On 3/15/2022 at 10:36 PM, IONEPUTT said:

I checked the specs for the PX Hardus im10 shaft and the torque rating is way too high to be a good shaft for most anyone. High torque shafts give a much wider left to right shot pattern if your swing speed is over about 60, so that means it's pretty much useless for any good golfer looking to find the fairway. I've done the testing and I know from experience this is true. 

Your experience is just that it’s your experience and it’s not actually truth as a whole.

Like flex there is not industry standard for torque. It’s measured differently by the various companies and they also use different machines. Unless you know that shaft A from Company X was measured in the same way as shaft B from Company Y the comparison in The number is useless.

If you want to go with anecdotal evidence I was fit by UST Mamiya into their helium shaft when it came out. It was 59g with 5.4 torque and produce great results for me. They were even better than the gold shaft which was 63g and 3.8 torque. It also performed as well as my hzrdus yellow 60 6.0 in the same head.

Torque while it relates to the twisting is used more these days for feel. That is directly from Don Brown of PX when I was there in 2017 for two days.

And you can hear it hear from experts that it doesnt impact dispersion 

 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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27 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

And you can hear it hear from experts that it doesnt impact dispersion 

 

and here is a contradictory statement that torque influences dispersion in addition to feel.   
https://tptgolf.com/learn/what-testing-reveals-about-torque/

 

can’t make blanket statements about anything in the golf industry. As a golfer the best option is to actually try what you plan on buying and not just go by website numbers 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15* set  to 16.5* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 816H1 19* set at 18* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
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53 minutes ago, cnosil said:

and here is a contradictory statement that torque influences dispersion in addition to feel.   
https://tptgolf.com/learn/what-testing-reveals-about-torque/

 

can’t make blanket statements about anything in the golf industry. As a golfer the best option is to actually try what you plan on buying and not just go by website numbers 

The interesting thing in that article is about fitting to torque. That has be never been something I’ve seen in any fitting I’ve done or watched. The profile of shaft is what fitters look at based on what the golfer gives in feedback and what they see in ball flight. Could be a softer or stiffer tip, or same for butt end. Changing kick/bend point. 
 

When I was at PX my feedback to DB was I wanted a softer feel. He changed torque to slightly softer in the design with it changing the ei profile of the shaft. 
 

Edit: also never came up in the conversation with UST when it comes to fitting golfers. Danny looked at ball flight, swing and launch monitor numbers to determine shaft.

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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Interesting that you posted a link to TPT Golf, as I did a shaft fitting with their line of shafts about 3 years ago. In the fitting the fitter picked a mId torque shaft as being best for me, even when the Trackman numbers clearly showed that I had a much tighter ball pattern with the Lo torque version of the same shaft. Carry distance was 2 more yards with the Lo torque shaft and total distance was 1 yard less with the Lo torque shaft. With the Lo torque shaft I hit 80 % of fairway and with the Mid torque shaft I hit 50%, so I have no idea why the fitter picked the Mid torque shaft as being the best fit for me. After the fitting, I sent the Trackman results directly to TPT and then talked to the head shaft designer at TPT and the designer agreed with ME and NOT with the fitter. He then sent me one of theire Lo torque shafts, same shaft as I hit in the driver fitting, and I'm still using that low torque shaft in a Ping driver  The head shaft designer also told me that a lower torque shaft WILL give a golfer a tighter left to right shot pattern just about every time. My driver head speed is around 104 MPH and for me I get a shot pattern that is TWICE as tight when I hit the Lo torque TPT shaft compared to the Mid torque version of the same shaft. I"ve been building golf clubs for close to 20 years now, and my experience is that a lower torque shaft always gives a tighter shot pattern than a higher torque shaft will. That has been MY experience and the gentleman at TPT fully agrees with me. 

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Edit: also never came up in the conversation with UST when it comes to fitting golfers. Danny looked at ball flight, swing and launch monitor numbers to determine shaft.

 

You say that you have never had a discussion about torque with UST. That may be true for you, but I've talked to them about it with their VTS line of driver shafts. The letters in VTS stand for Variable Torque System in case you are not aware of that. What I learned from speaking with UST is that their Lo torque verwion of the VTS shafts DO in fact provide a tighter shot pattern compared to their Mid or Higher torque version of the same shaft, flex for flex. 

You claim that torque is ALL about FEEL. And that may be true for you, But for ME, "Feel" is the "last" thing I look for in a good shaft. What matters to me is "Performance" and pretty much nothing else. 

I've "Read" online in forums like this one that a lot of average golfers do not like the "FEEL" of a low torque shaft when they try one. My BET on this is that after hitting a "HIGH" torque shaft in their drivers for years, a Low torque shat just feels weird to them. BUT if that golfer was to take the time to learn to "Get Used" to the feel of the Lower torque shaft they might just learn to like it and be happy with the improved performance  a low torque shaft can provide in the form of a tighter shot pattern. 

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11 minutes ago, IONEPUTT said:

You say that you have never had a discussion about torque with UST. That may be true for you, but I've talked to them about it with their VTS line of driver shafts. The letters in VTS stand for Variable Torque System in case you are not aware of that. What I learned from speaking with UST is that their Lo torque verwion of the VTS shafts DO in fact provide a tighter shot pattern compared to their Mid or Higher torque version of the same shaft, flex for flex. 

If you actually read the part you quoted I said in the fitting. As for conversation with them while there we talked about it and they showed us how they measure it too.

 

12 minutes ago, IONEPUTT said:

You claim that torque is ALL about FEEL. And that may be true for you, But for ME, "Feel" is the "last" thing I look for in a good shaft. What matters to me is "Performance" and pretty much nothing else. 

If you watched the video I posted from True temper they also claim it as did Don Brown during my visit to PX. And many others who are in the industry with years of experience in club building and fittings.

Anecdotal stuff related to your preference doesn’t make something true or false. Many golfers if something doesn’t feel good it won’t perform for them because they end up manipulating their swing to try and make it work. I have sacrificed feel with the hzrdus yellow because it performed best for me in several fitting. But yes torque these days is for feel.

 

16 minutes ago, IONEPUTT said:

I've "Read" online in forums like this one that a lot of average golfers do not like the "FEEL" of a low torque shaft when they try one. My BET on this is that after hitting a "HIGH" torque shaft in their drivers for years, a Low torque shat just feels weird to them. BUT if that golfer was to take the time to learn to "Get Used" to the feel of the Lower torque shaft they might just learn to like it and be happy with the improved performance  a low torque shaft can provide in the form of a tighter shot pattern. 

Most low torque shafts have a profile that promotes a low launch and low spin ball flight which is not what most amateurs need. I can tell you the vast majority of amateurs hate the hzrdus shaft line up because of the feel and the 3.5 or lower torque. 

And again if you watched the video I posted torque has no correlation to dispersion

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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FACT is I DID watch the video from True Temper about torque, and MY experiece with building golf clubs for almost 20 years tells me the guy is full of BS. ALL of those TT videos are made by a shaft company, NOT by people that build clubs. EVERY OEM claims their new clubs are better than last years model and you the golfer NEED to buy a new one as soon as you can. Just go out and SPEND your money and give it to the OEM's.

Well hear this.  NOT ME, I'M KEEPING MY MONEY AND THE OEM'S CAN GO STUFF IT UP THEIR SIX. 

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4 minutes ago, IONEPUTT said:

FACT is I DID watch the video from True Temper about torque, and MY experiece with building golf clubs for almost 20 years tells me the guy is full of BS. ALL of those TT videos are made by a shaft company, NOT by people that build clubs. EVERY OEM claims their new clubs are better than last years model and you the golfer NEED to buy a new one as soon as you can. Just go out and SPEND your money and give it to the OEM's.

Well hear this.  NOT ME, I'M KEEPING MY MONEY AND THE OEM'S CAN GO STUFF IT UP THEIR SIX. 

Problem that fit and build clubs will tell you the same. Lots of discussion on other forums by very experience club builder and fitters that state that.

Improved dispersion comes form havin a ball flight that’s been optimized via a shaft and head combo that fits the golfer. That’s based on a head that gets the ball in the right launches window and a shaft used to tweak the flight to optimize the flight. Shaft weight and EI profile more important than torque and flex which neither has an industry standard.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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