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Bench cutter/sander question


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I'm looking to find a bench cutter and sanding belt combo. I know I can easily find one on Golfworks but, I was doing some research mainly for cost purposes. I noticed that most setups only come as a grinder/sanding belt combo. My question is, on these setups, can the grinding wheel be replaced with a cutting wheel?

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TM Stealth+ 5 (17*) Tour AD IZ 7X

TM SIM Max 3 Nippon GOST 90S

TM P7MC 4-6, P7MB 7-P Modus Tour 105S HS

TM MG3 52, TM MG3 TW 56, 60 Modus Wedge 115

Spider X CS

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3 hours ago, RedBear90 said:

I'm looking to find a bench cutter and sanding belt combo. I know I can easily find one on Golfworks but, I was doing some research mainly for cost purposes. I noticed that most setups only come as a grinder/sanding belt combo. My question is, on these setups, can the grinding wheel be replaced with a cutting wheel?

Normally you can find a cut off wheel with the same diameter hole as the grinding wheel. You just might have to add some spacers as the cut off wheel is much thinner than the grinding wheel. 

:titleist-small: Driver, TSi 1 S Flex

:cobra-small: 3 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex

:cobra-small: 5 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 7 Wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 5 Hybrid King Tec MMT R Flex

:cobra-small: Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap)

:cobra-small: Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60*

:cobra-small: Agera 35"

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I can be done you need to know the size of the arbor as Tom said above and how the grinder or future cutting wheel is secured to the shaft. 

I can be free wheeling or it wont cut.  In the past I had an arbor extension that held the cutting wheel. I put the wheel a bit further from the body of the unit which helped me. 

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Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

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I've always felt safer, for some reason, using an inexpensive cutoff or "chop" saw that has a base on which I can rest the shaft I'm cutting rather than doing it as a freehand on the wheel process.

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Ping G430 SFT 3 wood and Ping G430 HL 7 wood SR flex

Ping G430 4,5,6,7 hybrids  SR flex

Cleveland Launcher XL Halo 8,9,P,G, SW irons   A Flex

Cleveland Smart Sole S wedge  A Flex

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On 4/8/2022 at 6:52 AM, Bobbers said:

I've always felt safer, for some reason, using an inexpensive cutoff or "chop" saw that has a base on which I can rest the shaft I'm cutting rather than doing it as a freehand on the wheel process.

If I was a novice at club repair and building, that is probably something that I would look into. I would consider myself intermediate/advanced in club repair and building. 

Most setups, wheel and belt combos aren't  "freehand" per se. In the setups that I have seen and used with a cutting wheel on one side and a belt on the other, the cutting wheel has a small platform that you put the shaft on as you push towards the wheel. 

 

Nonetheless, I appreciate all the advice!

TM Stealth+ 9 (8.25) Tour AD IZ 6X

TM Stealth+ 5 (17*) Tour AD IZ 7X

TM SIM Max 3 Nippon GOST 90S

TM P7MC 4-6, P7MB 7-P Modus Tour 105S HS

TM MG3 52, TM MG3 TW 56, 60 Modus Wedge 115

Spider X CS

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I got a cheap cut off saw from Harbor Freight which works great for me for steel and graphite.   I also have a upright belt sander I can prep tips on but prefer to do it by hand at least on graphite as  I don't do a ton of graphite anyways.  This particular belt sander doesn't turn slow enough for ferrules so I do them by hand.  

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Irons- Mizuno JPX 919 Tours with S KBS Tour shafts

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