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What does the 'draw' hosel setting ACTUALLY do?


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I have the same issue as you - path is in-to-out but with an open face so the ball starts right and goes more right. I've had more success tweaking the loft up a degree to close the face instead of using the draw setting on the hosel adapter.

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14 hours ago, JimmyShanks415 said:

I have the same issue as you - path is in-to-out but with an open face so the ball starts right and goes more right. I've had more success tweaking the loft up a degree to close the face instead of using the draw setting on the hosel adapter.

I was thinking about that too, but I was struggling with generating too much spin. The 9° driver head with a stiff shaft is new-ish to me and actually fixed a lot initially.

BTW! How do you like the Mizuno Fli-Hi? I've been eyeing those to replace hybrids

Driver:   :cobra-small: RadSpeed 9°
Fairway: :ping-small: G410 14.5°
Irons:     :mizuno-small: JPX 921 Forged
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1 hour ago, smohan215 said:

I was thinking about that too, but I was struggling with generating too much spin. The 9° driver head with a stiff shaft is new-ish to me and actually fixed a lot initially.

BTW! How do you like the Mizuno Fli-Hi? I've been eyeing those to replace hybrids

Really like the Fli-Hi. Not as great from the turf as a hybrid, but love it off the tee - got it specifically for a 215 yard par 3 at my home course, but can also hit low bullets that just run out forever on tighter driving holes. Doesn't seem draw biased the way most hybrids are, so at least when I hook it the ball isn't off the planet left. Only knock is that it doesn't seem like the finish will hold up very long, but not really any different than any other non-chrome finish.

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To my knowledge from what i've learned lately concerning drivers and adjustable clubs.

Callaway or other adjustable hosel with D setting... Draw setting on those hosel will make the club UPRIGHT which means you will generally draw the ball more.

Increasing loft on your driver will also close a little bit the club face.

Moving weight in the Heel will increase your draw.

You need to experiment what work best for you and your game...

It can be some weird combo that make no sense but it work for you, or simply it could be standard everywhere.

if it's Draw setting with weight in the toe that work for you, then it is, it would make no sense for most people but for you it work...

 

 

 

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You might also play with adding loft, this actually closes the face.  
 

try different combos of loft and more upright lie.  See what works. 

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Posted (edited)

When one adjusts the loft of a driver, with the adjustment on the hosel, you are actually changing two things. One obviously, is the effective loft of the driver and secondly, and it isn't as obvious, is one is either opening or closing the face angle. When you increase the loft of a driver, you actually close the face angle slightly. It's somewhat counterintuitive but it does change the angle. The opposite is true when one decreases the loft, one opens the face angle slightly. 

Moving adjustable weights on either side of the driver face is a different matter. One can make the driver close or open slightly at impact, given a consistent swing path,  by changing the weights at the heel and toe if your driver is so equipped. 

When doing a fitting, most launch monitors will indicate the swing path, face angle, etc. which is an invaluable tool in any fitting. Yet another reason to do any club fitting with an accurate launch monitor.

Edited by Birdieputt13
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Posted (edited)

I'm relatively new to playing a 10.5° PXG 0211 driver. Standard lie angle is 58°.

Because it's new and there's no PXG fitter anywhere close to where I live I've been going through the adjustments myself. This has been done through a combination of indoor and outdoor range work.

After mostly indoor work with a simulator with a launch monitor which gave me launch angles, spin rates etc., I ended up playing the "Small Minus" – This setting decreases the loft by 1° and decreases the lie angle by 0.5°.

After some time on the outdoor range and a couple of rounds I realized I was still getting the occasional big miss left. At that point I decided to go to the "Flat Minus" setting which decreases the loft by 1° and decreases the lie angle by 2.5°. This is the same loft as the "small minus" setting but a 2° flatter lie angle. That has helped a lot to take away the left side of the fairway / rough.

It's also worth noting that I've added about 6g of lead tape to the sole, taking the swing weight from D1 to D4. The lead tape is also biased slightly towards the toe, helping to stop the club face from closing.

All things considered the 0211 PXG is the best driver I've ever had.

P.S. I'm 6'2" with long arms (37" sleeve length). 

Edited by cycleguy55
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As one response here has alluded to, many adjustable drivers not only make the lie angles more upright, they also close the face angle when you adjust the adapter to the “draw” setting. Adapters that have “higher” and “lower” loft settings (e.g. TaylorMade and Sub 70 Golf) usually adjust the lie angle and face angle in conjunction with the loft. The higher you adjust the loft, the more upright the lie and more closed the face angle, and the lower you adjust the loft the flatter the lie angle and the more open the face angle. The exception to this is with those adapters with multiple cogs, such as Callaway and Krank Golf.

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Have used weights in the past...in fact my Ping G400 has it..though prefer to used natural and let hands/body do the work.

 

IMO.

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There is an option to change the tip to a left handed tip or right handed what ever is opposite of what hand you golf and then draw setting will flatten it of making it fade biased. 

Rouge st, Mizuno JPX 919 tour, anser putter. 

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I’m set at A3 in a 915 d2 and every drive is a fade this year. No distance. I am hitting my TM 7 wood just as far. I can’t hit a controlled draw since the 983 K. I think these hosel adjustments are gimmicks for the most part 

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1 hour ago, Nodivots said:

I’m set at A3 in a 915 d2 and every drive is a fade this year. No distance. I am hitting my TM 7 wood just as far. I can’t hit a controlled draw since the 983 K. I think these hosel adjustments are gimmicks for the most part 

If you are hitting 7w further then driver then you have launch condition issues with the 915. Just because you have it set to draw doesn’t mean the ball is automatically going to not go right or be a draw.

Without any numbers can’t say whether it’s too much spin or not enough, or launch is off. Also can’t say if it’s low or high contact on the face. But just because you are having an issue doesn’t mean the adjustable adapters a gimmick. 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

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Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

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This is a great thread and question.  I've wondered about the lie changes that accompany a loft adjustment and whether, depending on the players swing mechanics, it could be a detriment.  PING states that the lie angle in the club specs is "the average lie angle through the range of 5 setting positions" (56.5*), but not how much.  So in the case of the SFT, which is a draw biased design, principally my internal weighting towards rear and heel, it's unknown how much of the weight based draw bias is offset by using the large minus setting (-1*). I wouldn't think much but really don't know.  

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38 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

This is a great thread and question.  I've wondered about the lie changes that accompany a loft adjustment and whether, depending on the players swing mechanics, it could be a detriment.  PING states that the lie angle in the club specs is "the average lie angle through the range of 5 setting positions" (56.5*), but not how much.  So in the case of the SFT, which is a draw biased design, principally my internal weighting towards rear and heel, it's unknown how much of the weight based draw bias is offset by using the large minus setting (-1*). I wouldn't think much but really don't know.  

It can be a detriment depending on how the golfer delivers the club. Left misses or balls th at start left and move right (rh golfer) doesn’t need a more upright lie or the draw setting. This is where a fitting comes into play and looking at ball flight, what happens when a change is made to loft and/or lie and how it also affects the golfers swing and setup. Fitters can also see the data points and how they change as well

For someone who is self fitting it’s going to be a trial and error and nobody can guess how it will impact the golfer. 

 

 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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1 hour ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

It can be a detriment depending on how the golfer delivers the club. Left misses or balls th at start left and move right (rh golfer) doesn’t need a more upright lie or the draw setting. This is where a fitting comes into play and looking at ball flight, what happens when a change is made to loft and/or lie and how it also affects the golfers swing and setup. Fitters can also see the data points and how they change as well

For someone who is self fitting it’s going to be a trial and error and nobody can guess how it will impact the golfer. 

 

 

No argument having a fitter and using a LM to facilitate adjustments is best but it still would be nice to know how the lie changes with adjustments from nominal.  I have seen a PING G series woods adjustment chart in various threads, blogs, etc. but there is nothing on the PING website that I can find other than the note I shared above.  Again, I doubt it's much but it would be nice to know which direction lie angle moves with loft changes. 

Sounds like Callaway does not provide a secret de-coder ring either; do any of the mfg.'s clearly describe this?

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17 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

No argument having a fitter and using a LM to facilitate adjustments is best but it still would be nice to know how the lie changes with adjustments from nominal.  I have seen a PING G series woods adjustment chart in various threads, blogs, etc. but there is nothing on the PING website that I can find other than the note I shared above.  Again, I doubt it's much but it would be nice to know which direction lie angle moves with loft changes. 

Sounds like Callaway does not provide a secret de-coder ring either; do any of the mfg.'s clearly describe this?

I don’t think any really go into it. I’ve seen someone post a formula before. Only one I know that has something close is TaylorMade. Also keep in mind due to manufacturing tolerances the stated loft and even lie angle probably aren’t exact and loft can be upwards of 1.5* off

https://www.taylormadegolf.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-TMaG-Library/default/v1578349685920/manuals/2020_tuning_manual.pdf

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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On 5/11/2022 at 9:44 PM, Fitter81 said:

I think adjustable drivers are a hype and make guys comfortable with bad swing mechanics.

Im not plugging any companies on here as I do not get compensation for it,But when I fit guys/gals I use the few brands that are left that offer non adjustable drivers I feel it promotes consistency in the driver swing.

If you hit your drivers straight down the middle every time and your ball flight doesn’t put you in trouble, then you might not need an adjustable driver, but we all know those golfers are rare!  That is why golf companies such as Titleist, Callaway, Taylormade, Ping and Cobra have adjustable drivers.  Personally I like to have the option and it seems that those are the brands that are winning the dollars on the tours worldwide.  That is why I choose fitters who offer these clubs.  The two I use have over thirty years of experience and are in high demand.  And these companies have great customer service to back up the products.  What brands do you offer?

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I hvemy Mizuno driver I  upright setting which changes lie and not loft. Then I have a little lead tape on the heel to help turn it over. 

 

 

 

 

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