Jump to content

The build begins, component club.


Recommended Posts

different shafts have different flex profiles.  weight alone isn't the key.  I pick up 3 clubs same weight, and 1 feels like it is me, the others feel too much like it is you or some other guy 2 blocks away.   I absolutely love the flex and feel of my 2011 blue Matrix HD Radix 5.1 reg flex 16 sided internal structure on Adams Speedline LP 3 frwy with velocity slot tech.  by now it ought to be obsolete, but it works for me.  I am going to try some rifle style shafts next time around, probably KBS since Braley senior invented it.

  • Like 1

Driver  Callaway Epic on Recoil F2 (senior) flex

Three wood is TM Burner Superfast 3.0 on M (mature) flex

3H Old Adams A3OS red boxster on stock Graffaloy Platinum reg shaft

3 MP 18 MMC and 4 GFF hybrid Mizuno irons

5 Mizu hybrid Fli-hi

6 - W Ping I 500 irons on Recoil F3 reg flex shafts

Wedges:  Mizuno blue 52 09, 60 06, and old original Hogan Sure-out 56 14 sand

Chipper (yep I carry a chipper) old Don Martin Up n In bronze 

Putter Musty wood mallet, sometimes switch with my Scotty Cameron Futura X counter weight face balanced

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

No I can’t work with you directly but I can take the input from a good launch monitor and see if you are getting the right launch characteristics and if not see what can be improved or possibly save you testing time with a shaft or head.

I could also use video of a swing to see what’s going on and compare with the numbers to get a better idea. 
 

Without a fitting the most that can be done is tweak your current setup if not optimal.

First of all dicks doenst have golf experts and would never be considered a professional fitting. Going to a big box store for a fitting is only asking for a bad experience, one might get luck at a dicks or golf galaxy but chances are slim. 
 

PGA tour superstore non tour van fitting would be a better option same with 2ndswing golf. Do their tour style fitting and you have a better chance at a good fitting.

Good fittings are only as good as the skill of the fitter

So I'll go through the Puring Data sheets and select one of the NV 75 R flex shafts and install it in another of the 10.5 ISO-T heads.The trim guide doesn't have much leeway. Either straight in, or 1 inch trim. I'll tip trim 3/4 of an inch and add the 6G 1/4 inch shaft weight so it should feel a little firmer than R-flex. Once I get a chance to range test it, I'll set up another session at Masterfit so that I can better pass along Launch Angle and ball speed. Not to sure I have much faith in spin data off the big screen.  I am concerned that none of the NV 75 2.8 torque shafts poured below a vertical deviation of 0.536. None of the VS Proto's or HZRDUS Black shafts came in over 0.3 vertical deviation after puring. Wonder how that's going to effect feel & more importantly performance?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, A J Ziggy said:

Not to sure I have much faith in spin data off the big screen.  I am concerned that none of the NV 75 2.8 torque shafts poured below a vertical deviation of 0.536. None of the VS Proto's or HZRDUS Black shafts came in over 0.3 vertical deviation after puring. Wonder how that's going to effect feel & more importantly performance?

What lunch monitor does master or use? 
 

Is it indoor or outdoor?

Purine if shafts isn’t something that everyone in the industry agrees on as being beneficial. 

  • Like 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, A J Ziggy said:

OMG, drove to the corner and got a fitting at Dick's. It's going to take me awhile to pass this information along. But he decided to fit me with the 46 and a half inch a flex shaft that I never hit on the center of the face for 50 swings. Excuse me if the computer fitting on the big screen doesn't match reality in my opinion. This is not an example of what I consider to be a professional fitting. JMHO.

I am sorry, but getting a fitting at your local Dick's is like getting your broken foot repaired by your dentist. Dick's has it's place in retail, but not in fitting golf equipment if you are serious.

  • Like 3

Driver: :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus - 10.5*, Oban Kiyoshi Purple O4Flex-65 Grams Purred
3 Wood: :taylormade-small: SIM - 15*, Graphite Design Tour AD DJ5 Stiff
Hybrid: :titelist-small: TS3 - 19*, Hzrdus Smoke 6.0 Stiff
Irons: :titelist-small:  7 - PW T100S, 4 -6 T200 all with Nippon NS Pro 880 AMC Chrome Stiff 

Irons: :cobra-small: 4 - PW King Forged Tec with Aerotech Steelfiber I95 Stiff

Wedges:  :titelist-small: Vokey SM 8 - 50*, 56*, 60*  Standard Wedge Shafts   

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Phantom X 5.5           
Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Studio Select Newport 1.5
Ball: :titelist-small: Pro V1 or Maxfli Tour

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

What lunch monitor does master or use? 
 

Is it indoor or outdoor?

Purine if shafts isn’t something that everyone in the industry agrees on as being beneficial. 

Masterfit has both indoor & outdoor setups. The one on the corner closest to me is indoor. I haven't got any idea of what the equipment is that they use, 😐.                               Everything but my Putter has Pured Shafts. Perhaps that's why it's the poorest performing club in the Bag.LOL. No matter how many Putter fittings I get, eventually that club misbehaves and gets tossed into the Old Power built barrel sized storefront display bag never to be seen again.LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, GaDawg said:

I am sorry, but getting a fitting at your local Dick's is like getting your broken foot repaired by your dentist. Dick's has it's place in retail, but not in fitting golf equipment if you are serious.

Hey I walked in and the guy asked me what I wanted. I told him I needed a new driver cuz my old ones just weren't making it anymore.By gosh he had a whole arsenal of $500 drivers that would just suit me to the tee. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ever notice that the world is full of conflict. If you use the golf works swing speed chart 152 yd 7-iron drops you dead in the three category. If you go to Aldila web site an R flex max is 91 mph and 92-105 is a stiff flex in a Driver. So when the club head speed monitors measure a 99 mph give or take who are you supposed to believe is the correct Tecknowiee? Looks like I'm ordering another HZRDUS Black for the STW 10 degree forgiving head in 5.5 to match up with the HZRDUS 75 Black slated for the 3 wood. Decisions/ decisions, is it really supposed to be this hard? LMAO 🤣.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, A J Ziggy said:

Ever notice that the world is full of conflict. If you use the golf works swing speed chart 152 yd 7-iron drops you dead in the three category. If you go to Aldila web site an R flex max is 91 mph and 92-105 is a stiff flex in a Driver. So when the club head speed monitors measure a 99 mph give or take who are you supposed to believe is the correct Tecknowiee? Looks like I'm ordering another HZRDUS Black for the STW 10 degree forgiving head in 5.5 to match up with the HZRDUS 75 Black slated for the 3 wood. Decisions/ decisions, is it really supposed to be this hard? LMAO 🤣.

This is why you can’t base shaft flex selection on swing speed. These are gents guideline for those who just want to buy off the rack.

Aldia is only basing off their flex standard. Golfworks is doing in general.

In a true fitting swing speed is just a starting point and the fitter will use the golfers swing, the ball flight, what they hear on contact and confirm with the numbers along with the golfers fees back to start making changes. Again it starts with the head to get in the right launch window then find the shaft that gives the golfers a good feel and keeps the ball flight optimized.

Also wny blind buying, self fitting can be fun but frustrating and expensive. 
 

Unless you know what shaft fits you already it’s a guessing game and not all 9.5 heads are the same or any other lofted heads. The design of a Ping driver is going to produce different results from a Callaway, titlesrt, TaylorMade and so on

  • Like 1
  • Hmmm 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

This is why you can’t base shaft flex selection on swing speed. These are gents guideline for those who just want to buy off the rack.

Aldia is only basing off their flex standard. Golfworks is doing in general.

In a true fitting swing speed is just a starting point and the fitter will use the golfers swing, the ball flight, what they hear on contact and confirm with the numbers along with the golfers fees back to start making changes. Again it starts with the head to get in the right launch window then find the shaft that gives the golfers a good feel and keeps the ball flight optimized.

Also wny blind buying, self fitting can be fun but frustrating and expensive. 
 

Unless you know what shaft fits you already it’s a guessing game and not all 9.5 heads are the same or any other lofted heads. The design of a Ping driver is going to produce different results from a Callaway, titlesrt, TaylorMade and so on

I do know what shaft fits me, but they no longer make DG s300 wood shafts. I could take any 10° head that will make swing weight and put it on a steel dynamic gold s300 shaft had 43 to 43.25 in cut length and heavy driver that works. But the folks that can hit that over 240 yd have made it so that you can only get graphite shafts and you need a 45-in driver that you can't hit in the middle of the club to be considered standard nowadays. I can build a lot of drivers that perform better than $500 factory clubs for those $500. Not to mention it's a lot of fun to work with your hands and make things that nobody else has on the course. Just my humble opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, A J Ziggy said:

But the folks that can hit that over 240 yd have made it so that you can only get graphite shafts and you need a 45-in driver that you can't hit in the middle of the club to be considered standard nowadays.

There is a lot more that can be done with graphite than with steel including making a 39g shaft that is as stiff as a heavier graphite shaft, PX has done it. Simply by changing the orientation of a flag in a graphite shaft build the designer can change the torque of the shaft. By taking out an stiffer flag and replacing with several lighter weight flags they can manipulate torque and weight and keep the same playing characteristics of the shaft from and EI profile. 
 

The bolded part isn’t even remotely true. A well fit driver at 45-46” can be playable for many. Just read this forum and others to see the results people get from a good fitter. But one can also have a driver built to whatever playing length they choose and have it produce as good as if not better results than a longer driver.

1 hour ago, A J Ziggy said:

I can build a lot of drivers that perform better than $500 factory clubs for those $500.

Show me the numbers of a stock driver you’ve been fit to and one you built that performs better than the fitted stock driver.

 

  • Like 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's going to be a pretty rough job. Think the last stock driver I used was a Pittsburgh persimmon. Even the Tony Pena Persimmons & Power built's where custom. Before that was when I was so young I played my Mom's Ram Golden Girl woods & irons, but I was less than 5 foot tall way back then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a chance to hit Master fit for a few swings today. Angle of attack 1.1 up. Most of my swings were 1.1 left. The 11.5 with the hazardous Black shaft had a launch angle of 13.1 with a maximum height of 103. Ball speed range from 142 to 148. The NV 75 with the 10.5 head had a launch angle of 13.4 and a maximum height of 120. Both of the heads gave me a spin rate of $3,240 something if you believe the machines. These may not be the heads for me. The quest shall continue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, A J Ziggy said:

Got a chance to hit Master fit for a few swings today. Angle of attack 1.1 up. Most of my swings were 1.1 left. The 11.5 with the hazardous Black shaft had a launch angle of 13.1 with a maximum height of 103. Ball speed range from 142 to 148. The NV 75 with the 10.5 head had a launch angle of 13.4 and a maximum height of 120. Both of the heads gave me a spin rate of $3,240 something if you believe the machines. These may not be the heads for me. The quest shall continue.

Where on the face were you making contact. To have a spin rate in the 3200s with an aoa of +1 and a peak height of 100+ feet sound like you maybe be hitting low on the face.

Would still need face to path, swing path, land or descent angle to really see what’s going on.

Also what launch monitor was used and was this indoor or outdoor.

I wouldn’t rule out the heads because of its low on the face contact every head is going to cause high spin.

  • Like 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This was indoors, and I only took 5 swings with each club. First swing with the HZRDUS Black & 11.5 head low heel side of center. Other four low center, marked on first line. Didn't hit any shots dead center or higher with either club. Didn't have a fitter, just got to take some swings while one of the pads was open, so I am not sure what monitor system.The guy working the counter told me that spin rates don't always register if that's any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, A J Ziggy said:

This was indoors, and I only took 5 swings with each club. First swing with the HZRDUS Black & 11.5 head low heel side of center. Other four low center, marked on first line. Didn't hit any shots dead center or higher with either club. Didn't have a fitter, just got to take some swings while one of the pads was open, so I am not sure what monitor system.The guy working the counter told me that spin rates don't always register if that's any help.

I take the advice if most counter workers with a grain of salt unless I know them.

The know the validity of the spin rates the monitor that is used will be helpful.

Low heel and low center are going to cause high spin rates with any head. This is either a tee height is too low or a swing issue.

Could the swing issue be related to the shaft, shaft/head combo? It’s possible but without swing video can’t say if it’s club or swing. Especially without any previous data.

 

  • Like 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

I take the advice if most counter workers with a grain of salt unless I know them.

The know the validity of the spin rates the monitor that is used will be helpful.

Low heel and low center are going to cause high spin rates with any head. This is either a tee height is too low or a swing issue.

Could the swing issue be related to the shaft, shaft/head combo? It’s possible but without swing video can’t say if it’s club or swing. Especially without any previous data.

 

Since my swing speed is just going to decrease with every passing year, it may be time to look at higher launching shafts and Driver Heads.Even try to find how soft a flex I can play? Since my main concern is Carry distance, which will also decrease as my swing speed goes down, perhaps I should try to get closer to 16* launch angle? Since I am not getting anymore club head speed with 75 G shafts than with steel perhaps the time has come to experiment with 65 or even 55 gram shafts and see if there is any increase in speed, or if I've aged to the point of no return.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, A J Ziggy said:

Since my swing speed is just going to decrease with every passing year, it may be time to look at higher launching shafts and Driver Heads.Even try to find how soft a flex I can play? Since my main concern is Carry distance, which will also decrease as my swing speed goes down, perhaps I should try to get closer to 16* launch angle? Since I am not getting anymore club head speed with 75 G shafts than with steel perhaps the time has come to experiment with 65 or even 55 gram shafts and see if there is any increase in speed, or if I've aged to the point of no return.

Shafts don’t launch or spin. Those are produced by the golfers swing and where the golfer strikes it on the face. Change launch and spin js much easier thru loft, whether that’s adjusting the club to be higher loft or buying a higher lofted head.

With a low strike on the face you will see a low launch and high spin. I would have to go dig thru some old threads on wrx to see what the degree of launch change would be but I suspect that you would be 15-16 with a higher strike. Your spin will come down as well. By getting the contact to be at or slightly above center your spin should be somewhere between 2300-2600. These numbers at 148 ball speed would give you some good carry distance.

For shaft I would try something that is lighter than 75. You may want to stay at that weight if the transition is quick as it could help slow that down. Other things to look at would be a softer tipped shaft so maybe something that is marketed as mid/mid or something like the hzrdus smoke blue rdx, evenflow blue if you wanted to stay in the project x family.

Diamana red or blueboard are possibilities as are atmos blue, tensei blue.

This is the hard part of buying and testing without a fitting, it’s a lot of guess work and trial and error.

 

  • Like 1

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm trending toward Aldila over Project X. The NV and VS Proto deliver a springer feel, while the Project X feels almost like steel. Going forward may need help from the shaft? Perhaps I'll pull the shaft in the 11.5 ISO-T and try the 65 NVS? The 11.5 should have had a higher launch than the 10.5, so I can only attribute the 11.5 @13.1* vice the 10.5 @14.5 to the HZRDUS Black shaft, at least in my hands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...