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Pulling Tip from BGT Stability Tour shaft


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Anyone have any recommendations on pulling the straight steel tip section from a BGT stability tour shaft?  Wanted to try one and picked up a used one, but I need to remove the ~7" steel section in order order to put it on my single bend evnroll.  

From what I can find online the two options are to heat up the steel tip section and let the heat travel up into the main carbon fiber section and then pull once the epoxy gives or heat up a steel rod until it's red hot and then insert it inside the steel section and let the heat transfer that way until the epoxy gives.  

Also, finding conflicting information on the web about whether or not there is a piece of plastic inside the tip portion of carbon fiber section that may act as a "damper" or something which could obviously be damaged/melt if I go with the steel rod option.

Anybody done this before?

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I know I'm stating the obvious, which I'm famous for BTW, but I would call the manufacturer and ask them how to go about it. 

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7 hours ago, Headhammer said:

I know I'm stating the obvious, which I'm famous for BTW, but I would call the manufacturer and ask them how to go about it. 

Their recommendation is to not do it and to buy a new shaft from them.

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Well, they are nothing if not capitalists!😅

Driver: :cobra-small: Speed Zone 9* HZRDUS Smoke Yellow Shaft

3 Wood: :cobra-small: King Speedzone 13.5* HZRDUS Smoke Black Shaft

2 & 3 Hybrids: :cobra-small: Speedzone Recoil 480 ESX Shaft

Irons: :cobra-small: Speedzone 5-GW Recoil 460 ESX Shafts

Wedges::callaway-logo-1: PM Grind 54* & 58*

Putter: :odyssey-small: Dual Force Rossi II

Ball: Whatever I find in the woods

:Arccos:

HCP:18

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It is notoriously difficult to pull a graphite shaft from metal golf club head (without the lever that shaft puller provides) because there is a fine line between the temperature that is usually needed to break down the epoxy that was used to glue the head to the shaft and the temperature at which the resin that holds the layers of graphite together starts to break down and cause the graphite shaft to delaminate. If pulling graphite shaft from metal golf head is considered expert job, pulling metal insert from BGT is God tier level stuff because the graphite is on the outside. You cannot use heat directly from the outside because the graphite portion of the shaft would delaminate before the heat would reach metal portion.

Theoretically the only chance of pulling the metal portion of the shaft from BGT is to evenly heat up the metal portion of the shaft from the inside. Forget about heat gun or torch and don't even think about twisting. You would probably need something like a soldering iron with a long heated rounded end that would reach all the way into the metal shaft and while doing this somehow mount the shaft into shaft puller. I just don't see how this could be done with reasonable success rate and in reality I would expect to destroy the shaft in 99% of attempts.

I would entertain the idea of using lathe. I would consider cutting the metal portion of the shaft at the end of BGT, mounting the graphite portion in the spinning vice (if that would be possible without breaking the shaft) and slowly either bore out the metal part or, if there is enough room, spirally turn the metal portion of the shaft from the inside. Epoxy would break as soon as the metal shaft would be punctured. Even in this case I would not expect this method to be reasonably succesfull and personally I would not even try it. 

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On 8/9/2022 at 8:54 AM, Calvo90 said:

It is notoriously difficult to pull a graphite shaft from metal golf club head (without the lever that shaft puller provides) because there is a fine line between the temperature that is usually needed to break down the epoxy that was used to glue the head to the shaft and the temperature at which the resin that holds the layers of graphite together starts to break down and cause the graphite shaft to delaminate. If pulling graphite shaft from metal golf head is considered expert job, pulling metal insert from BGT is God tier level stuff because the graphite is on the outside. You cannot use heat directly from the outside because the graphite portion of the shaft would delaminate before the heat would reach metal portion.

I hear what you are saying, but I think this is a little different.  The stability shaft has a metal collar on it that the tip fits into, so it's not exactly the same as pulling a graphite shaft.  There are also plenty of people who have successfully done this using one of the methods I mentioned above.  I was just looking for some more detail on the process and/or first hand advice from someone who has done it before.

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i've done it, successfully once, failed once. i would recommend heating the steel tip approach. the time i failed, the inner aluminum piece came out

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