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DIY: Regripping with an Air Compressor


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As I promised, here is a DIY thread on how to regrip your clubs using an air compressor instead of the traditional double-sided tape and solvent method. Since I am not terribly savvy with inserting pictures, I will just do this as a series of posts and describe each picture and what I'm doing.

 

I'll start with the equipment needed:

 

Air compressors

New grips

Masking tape

Utility knife

Air compressor grip tool

 

Suggested equipment:

 

Vice w/rubber shaft holder

Solvent

 

First, you will need a vice and a little rubber piece that holds the shaft without damaging it. These should be pretty easy to find at any golf store with clubmaking equipment. In truth, you probably don't NEED a vice, but it sure makes life easier. Put the shaft into the rubber holder and clamp it into the vice.

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Next, cut off the old grip. This will require some force. Safety tip: always point the blade AWAY from you. It is likely that while trying to cut down the length of the grip, the blade will pop lose. This is annoying, but it will be annoying and painful if the knife pops out and comes towards you. Pull off the old grip.

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#6: Attach your grip tool to your air compressor. Set your output regulator to 50 psi. Slip the tip of the grip onto the shaft, START PUSHING THE GRIP FORWARD, then give it the gas. I capitalized that section about pushing the grip forward because if you are not holding the grip in place, the air pressure will blow the grip right back in your face. Then your wife, who is taking pictures of this, will laugh at you.

 

***Not pictured: my tool came with a sleeve that you can put around the grip when you are giving it air pressure. If the grip were to explode during installation, the sleeve would prevent the grip shrapnel from hitting you in the face. It's probably a good idea to use this instead of just throwing it in a drawer.

 

Once it's all the way on, you can use bursts of air to change the alignment.

 

COMPLETE! You now have a club that is gripped and ready to be swung. No more sticky grip tape, no more gallons of solvent, no waiting for the grip to dry.

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Excellent. Outside of the solvent in a kegger cup it looks safe and easy.

Do you need the solvent just to provide a little lubrication at the start?

Have you looked into the hooked grip knife rather than the utility knife?

Volvo Intorqueo

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Excellent. Outside of the solvent in a kegger cup it looks safe and easy.

Do you need the solvent just to provide a little lubrication at the start?

Have you looked into the hooked grip knife rather than the utility knife?

 

Hey hey hey, there are many uses for red solo cups besides keggers, beer pong, and shop applications. I just don't know any.

 

The solvent just makes everything work a little easier. You could just rely on the air to get the grip started, but the solvent make it easier.

 

I know that there are knives out there for removing grips and cutting off tape that would make life simpler, but like Alton Brown, I hate uni-taskers. Good Eats...anyone...anyone?

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I know that there are knives out there for removing grips and cutting off tape that would make life simpler, but like Alton Brown, I hate uni-taskers. Good Eats...anyone...anyone?

 

Do you still keep a fire extinguisher? That is his only uni-tasker.

 

Like Sactown said, at first I thought you were going to chug the solvent, it's probably better you didn't.

 

It looks great though. Since you didn't use double sided tape, what keeps the grips stuck to the shaft?

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Do you still keep a fire extinguisher? That is his only uni-tasker.

 

Like Sactown said, at first I thought you were going to chug the solvent, it's probably better you didn't.

 

It looks great though. Since you didn't use double sided tape, what keeps the grips stuck to the shaft?

 

Fire extinguisher is just inside the door for workshop meltdowns.

 

I actually had the same thought about the grips not sticking this morning while I was teaching. Then I remembered that I tried to to adjust the grips without using the air and they wouldn't budge. I guess it's just good old friction.

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I know quite a few club makers that use the tapeless system and have little to no problem with slippage. Although some people do prefer to have their grips built up in different manners.

 

Say someone may occasionally hits fat... :)

Do you think that the air only adhesion will be enough to prevent grip slippage?

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First of all I want to congratulate MSaternus for providing some excellent pictures that help explain this method of changing grips.

 

Now that I said that... ;)

 

I own all the tools necessary to install with air (I am a carpenter) but still go at it the old fashioned way.

Now maybe I am not as dexterous as most however it always takes me more than a few seconds to properly align the grip. That I would have to keep shooting air into the grip to get the seam straight and whatever alignment mark is on the grip to be where I want it seems like too much work. As long as the solvent is still wet I am able to make the adjustments quickly and accuratley.

 

rob

 

ps - MGS - you posted:I know quite a few club makers that use the tapeless system and have little to no problem with slippage. Although some people do prefer to have their grips built up in different manners.

 

Little to me seems that there is at least one problem. As a clubmaker if I could not be 100% confident that the grip that I installed was not going to slip I would not do it.

In my 10 years of installing grips with fresh tape and solvent I have never,ever had a problem of a grip slipping/twisting.

In fact the only instance I can think of turned out to be a bad epoxy on a head and it was mistaken for a loose grip.

rbm

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I still prefer the tape and solvent method... sorry. I had a pro once who taught me to use rubber cement and masking tape. Worked like a charm. Took forever to dry though.

Driver - Ping G430 Max 9° | Ventus Blue TR 
Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 16° & 18° | GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 17° | AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7 MKII  4-Pw | TTDGTI S400, std length  1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX 6 Tour Rack 50° 54° 58° | TTDGTI S400, std length 1° flat

Putter -  L.A.B. Golf Link.1 | LA Golf P135 shaft | Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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I still prefer the tape and solvent method... sorry. I had a pro once who taught me to use rubber cement and masking tape. Worked like a charm. Took forever to dry though.

 

Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?

 

FWIW, I pulled out the clubs that I regripped yesterday and swung them, pulled at them, did everything I could to move the grip and...nothing. If anyone wants a solvent tray w/mounting hardware and tubes for reclaiming the used solvent, let me know. I can tell you for sure that I will never be using solvent & grip tape again.

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First off, thanks for posting the step by step. I think its an interesting alternative method. I need to go the more traditional route first since I'm a newbie, but I'm going to bookmark this post for future reference.

 

Tell the Mrs. she took great pics. Nice assist from her. Oh, and I would have laughed at you too. ;)

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Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum

Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore

Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core

Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore

Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT

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I know quite a few club makers that use the tapeless system and have little to no problem with slippage. Although some people do prefer to have their grips built up in different manners.

 

I believe what you say, but the last thing I want to be worrying about are my grips. So, you kind of lost me at "litte to...".

 

Plus I do have my grips built up. I like to get regular grips and do two extra wraps of tape to put them between a regular and a mid sized. Through experimentation, that is the perfect grip size for me.

Callaway FT-9 Driver 10.5* Grafalloy Prolaunch Axis Blue

Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum

Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore

Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core

Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore

Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT

Ping Tour-W 56*,60* DG Spinner

Ping Redwood ZB Putter, WRX Starshot, 35"

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Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?

 

FWIW, I pulled out the clubs that I regripped yesterday and swung them, pulled at them, did everything I could to move the grip and...nothing. If anyone wants a solvent tray w/mounting hardware and tubes for reclaiming the used solvent, let me know. I can tell you for sure that I will never be using solvent & grip tape again.

 

So what holds them on? Was is the grip being stretched or something?

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So what holds them on? Was is the grip being stretched or something?

 

Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

 

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

 

rob

I Can't Help It If I'm Lucky...

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Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

 

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

 

rob

 

I would think the grips would tend to slip around more on steel than graphite.

 

I guess what I don't get about the green movement is nobody would mess with solvents and tape if it really wasn't required. So what am I missing?

Callaway FT-9 Driver 10.5* Grafalloy Prolaunch Axis Blue

Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum

Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore

Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core

Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore

Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT

Ping Tour-W 56*,60* DG Spinner

Ping Redwood ZB Putter, WRX Starshot, 35"

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First off, thanks for posting the step by step. I think its an interesting alternative method. I need to go the more traditional route first since I'm a newbie, but I'm going to bookmark this post for future reference.

 

Tell the Mrs. she took great pics. Nice assist from her. Oh, and I would have laughed at you too. B)

 

Thanks, she's a good sport about nonsense like this.

 

If you want some grip replacement equipment for the "old" method, just swing by my house. Shoot me a PM if you want.

 

I believe what you say, but the last thing I want to be worrying about are my grips. So, you kind of lost me at "litte to...".

 

Plus I do have my grips built up. I like to get regular grips and do two extra wraps of tape to put them between a regular and a mid sized. Through experimentation, that is the perfect grip size for me.

 

You can still build up the grips, you just use plain masking tape instead of grip tape.

 

Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

 

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

 

rob

 

 

The environmental point is a good one, hadn't even thought of it. I just like it because it's faster and I won't have to deal with cutting off grip tape when I remove the grips.

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Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

 

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

 

rob

 

Thanks for the description. I've never done it myself, so sorry if I am a asking too many questions. I'm done though, no more questions. ;)

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Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?

 

 

Rubber Cement was alot easier to clean up than solvent, and you could still line up the grip when it was wet.

 

Question. Does this compressor technique work on Winn Grips?? I wonder if they might split??

Driver - Ping G430 Max 9° | Ventus Blue TR 
Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 16° & 18° | GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 17° | AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7 MKII  4-Pw | TTDGTI S400, std length  1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX 6 Tour Rack 50° 54° 58° | TTDGTI S400, std length 1° flat

Putter -  L.A.B. Golf Link.1 | LA Golf P135 shaft | Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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Rubber Cement was alot easier to clean up than solvent, and you could still line up the grip when it was wet.

 

Question. Does this compressor technique work on Winn Grips?? I wonder if they might split??

 

I have only done this with GPTV's, so I don't know. Is there a particular reason why you think Winns would split?

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If you want some grip replacement equipment for the "old" method, just swing by my house. Shoot me a PM if you want.

 

Thanks Matt. I think I might take you up on that. I'm getting tired of paying "the man" for re-grips.

Callaway FT-9 Driver 10.5* Grafalloy Prolaunch Axis Blue

Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum

Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore

Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core

Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore

Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT

Ping Tour-W 56*,60* DG Spinner

Ping Redwood ZB Putter, WRX Starshot, 35"

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Say someone may occasionally hits fat... ;)

Do you think that the air only adhesion will be enough to prevent grip slippage?

 

We have club pros here who don't use tape and use plain water to fit the grip. When the water dries, the grips are solid. THEY ONLY DO THIS WITH NEW GRIPS. Some of my clubs were re-gripped this way and I used them until the grips wore out, i.e., kept getting too dirty too quickly. If a gip is re-used, it's necessary to use at least one layer of tape and contact cement.

 

 

Shambles

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I have only done this with GPTV's, so I don't know. Is there a particular reason why you think Winns would split?

Winn grips have that underlisting that is very still, and susceptible to splitting.

Driver - Ping G430 Max 9° | Ventus Blue TR 
Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 16° & 18° | GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 17° | AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7 MKII  4-Pw | TTDGTI S400, std length  1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX 6 Tour Rack 50° 54° 58° | TTDGTI S400, std length 1° flat

Putter -  L.A.B. Golf Link.1 | LA Golf P135 shaft | Garsen Quad Tour grip
 

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Winn grips have that underlisting that is very still, and susceptible to splitting.

By still you mean rigid? One thing I read too about using air is that a grip with an imperfection may grow a bubble at the site of weakness. Maybe this is best left to quality grips.

Volvo Intorqueo

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