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Does it always make sense to get professionally fit?


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I had to cancel my fitting appointment due to scheduling conflicts with work, but I am torn with this question, does it make sense to get fitted when I have no intention on changing the woods/hybrid/iron heads I have? Also, I doubt I would buy most of the major market shafts and I already know what grips I like.

 

The shafts I'm interested in mainly are the Arthur Extereme Xcaliber and now the USPG Black Ops. I can rent a simulator for an hour, try out my current shafts against these in my driver since I can swap out shafts (once it gets here). For my irons, I'll probably go with FST or another Apollo shaft, so I can get my numbers from the similar, compare it to the DSFI chart, and probably as Jeff Summit for input.

 

For those of you who've had professional fittings, what do you think?

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In this particular situation, it makes zero sense to "get fit". If you are going into the fitting process with preconceived ideas about what you are going to end up with, you are wasting you time and $$$. JMO..

Driver -   :srixon-small: ZX 7 9.5° Ventus VeloCore Blue S
Fairway -  Tour Edge Exotics CB2 15° Grafalloy Prolite 35  S

Fairway - Tour Edge Exotics CB2 18° Grafalloy Prolite 35  S

Hybrid - :srixon-small: ZX 18° GD Tour IZ S

2 Iron - :srixon-small: ZU65 18° AeroTech SteelFiber 110icw S

Irons -  :srixon-small: ZX7  Aerotech SteelFiber 110icw  4-Pw 1° flat
Wedges - :cleveland-small: RTX Zipcore Raw 50° 54° 58°  TTGDTI S400 1° flat

Putters -   Cameron Phantom 5x/Odyssey Toulon Stroke Lab Austin/Odyssey 2 Ball DFX/ TaylorMade Spider
Tour Black/Ping Anser F/Scotty Cameron TeI3 Sole Stamp Newport 2. All with different grips, weights, and lengths.
 

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I have gone through some very in-depth fittings and some very basic ones.

 

Majority of the time what I do is considered basic fittings. Iron loft / lie checks and adjustments, Putter length and lie adjustments, there is not a whole lot of in-depth fitting that happens anymore mostly just tweaks making sure equipment still fits my swing / stroke.

 

The longest fittings that I go into are normally for graphite shafts in my clubs, some companies don't make a smooth feeling shaft that has the playing characteristics that I need.

 

Sorry I have to kind of pimp out RT Technologies a little, I got lucky in finding RT Technologies. It really is not a brand that I went into the fitting thinking about at all, honestly I had never heard of the brand before that fitting. However the fitter / builder that I use from that day until now happens to be a distributor for the shaft so I gave it a whirl. I had been hitting a White Board 73 X-Stiff for a long time but was looking to replace it with something that had slightly tighter dispersion not that the White Board isn't a great shaft I just was seeing if there was something better for my game. I feel in love with the RT Technologies Zeus LT it had a great recovery for a sub-70 gram shaft in my swing, no over flipping and the face didn't stay wide open recover fast and beautifully.

 

That promoted me to give the Zeus 85g (no longer produced, I literally bought the last uncut one on the market) a try that has the same profile as the Zeus LT. It was a Stiff so the builder tipped it to a X-Stiff for the fairway wood, now it is still my gamer in the 4wood I carry. Again felt great, was easily workable and a good weight for the fairway wood, I don't like light weight shafts in fairway woods and hybrids. It had the same smooth feel to the shaft as the Zeus LT just heaver in weight.

 

After playing those for about 6 months when I got my new hybrid I of course was logical to give the RT Technologies Midas a try. I got blown away by the Midas, best hybrid shaft I have hit to date. It has a very SMOOTH feeling to it as the two other shafts that I have an 88g with good recovery and workability. That shaft only comes in a 0.370 so it can be tipped to specs if needed just watch out for the OEMs that make their hybrids different size hosel. TM is notorious for making fairway woods and hybrids odd sizes.

 

My irons I got fitted to by the same person as the Driver, fairway wood and hybrid. The guy knows what he is doing has 20+ years experience in doing fittings and building equipment, don't mess with something that is working well :). We did the Mizuno fitting cart and went through a bunch of shafts, He just went straight to the X-Stiff in the irons having seen my swing a few times before. It is pretty easy to put me in a X-Stiff iron shaft with a a lot of load/ lag and a lot of club head speed. This was back before the KBS C-Taper had been released, I had been playing PX shafts for a long time and the one thing I didn't like about them is the fact they feel harsh. I loved the smooth feel of the KBS Tour but had too much spin and too high launch angle for me. He recommended the KBS C-Taper (that was being released in a month or so back then). I was not sold completely on pre-ording a shaft I have never hit before, the decision to spend $35 a shaft was weighing on my mind but I eventually pulled the trigger when he told me he needed to place his first order. I got them built within 1 or 2 days of them being shipped to the distributors :) I was extremely happy with the results, Smoothest dang X-Stiff I have ever played and its playing characteristics. It doesn't even feel like and X but is stable like one and preforms like one.

 

Wedges, I was going to put the C-Tapers in but when I got my Gen 1 C.o.C. wedges I realized the C-Taper wasn't going to spin enough went with the DG x100s instead for increased spin. When I replace my wedges later this season I am going into the DG x200 just for added weight. Selecting a wedge shaft right for you is a different beast, you have to take into account if you ever swing them full for any reason. If so you need to play something as stiff as your irons with the same weight or a little heavier weight then the irons. It is more a personal thing and a fitter might be able to help you in picking a shaft right for you to maximize playability to your style of a player in the wedges. For me I swing them full, 3/4, 1/2 pitches, flops, bunks on the 52*, 56* and 60* I need something that will preform well in all conditions and swing types.

 

Putter, until recently and working with Burnt Edges Consulting I really didn't think much about putter fittings, I just knew I liked the style of the blade putter like the Scotty Cameron Newport 2 that I have and used to game. I bought a newer putter that is the same style and as it turns out it is the right style putter for my natural putting stroke :) However, I did learn that the length was wrong and lie angle is about right at 69* lie. Putting is very individual, so for me my set up is 33.5" length, 2* flat of standard, and a iomic midsize putter grip. Once you have your specifications for your putter fit to you it can act as a guide in getting you into a set up position more often. I highly recommend working with Burnt Edges Consulting on your putting and fitting guidelines.

 

Properly fitted equipment plus it being well assembled just takes one variable out of the equation you know that a missed shot is not because of the tool it is because of whom is using the tool. I find that my fittings over the years have let me be more confident in my equipment that it will preform the same on every swing, I can simply focus on just making the tool work :)

 

I don't see fittings as just for players of single digit handicaps either, I think that for some mid to high handicappers they might benefit from a good fitting and a set of clubs in that regards more then a lower handicap. You can prolong irons and equipment just by changing the shafts and lie angles as you get better and practice / play more. It is cheaper that why in terms of game development. Only time you would really need to get something new is for different playing characteristics such as cg, workability, minimal offsets, etc or that the face cracked on the driver, irons grooves are gone, wedge grooves gone, putter found the lake ;)

 

Getting fit with the equipment you got will turn into making it feel like a new set of clubs all over again. You have to go into the fitting open minded about brands and shafts. It should be personal to you not what I play or anyone else might recommend. That is how I found RT Technologies, I was open minded about it.

KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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In this particular situation, it makes zero sense to "get fit". If you are going into the fitting process with preconceived ideas about what you are going to end up with, you are wasting you time and $$$. JMO..

 

I don't have any preconceived notions as far as shafts go, I'm just not willing to shell out $300 or compromise on a "lesser" shaft for $100-200, which is what most shafts go for. One of the reasons I mentioned the Xcaliber and USPG shafts is their money back guarantee, so if they don't fit, I can return them. Fitting seems to be getting the shaft that's closest to the optimal spin/LA for your swing speed and angle of attack.

 

As for the heads, I'm not interested in changing them unless there's no shaft out there that would fit my swing with the heads I already have.

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I have gone through some very in-depth fittings and some very basic ones.

 

Majority of the time what I do is considered basic fittings. Iron loft / lie checks and adjustments, Putter length and lie adjustments, there is not a whole lot of in-depth fitting that happens anymore mostly just tweaks making sure equipment still fits my swing / stroke.

 

The longest fittings that I go into are normally for graphite shafts in my clubs, some companies don't make a smooth feeling shaft that has the playing characteristics that I need.

 

Sorry I have to kind of pimp out RT Technologies a little, I got lucky in finding RT Technologies. It really is not a brand that I went into the fitting thinking about at all, honestly I had never heard of the brand before that fitting. However the fitter / builder that I use from that day until now happens to be a distributor for the shaft so I gave it a whirl. I had been hitting a White Board 73 X-Stiff for a long time but was looking to replace it with something that had slightly tighter dispersion not that the White Board isn't a great shaft I just was seeing if there was something better for my game. I feel in love with the RT Technologies Zeus LT it had a great recovery for a sub-70 gram shaft in my swing, no over flipping and the face didn't stay wide open recover fast and beautifully.

 

That promoted me to give the Zeus 85g (no longer produced, I literally bought the last uncut one on the market) a try that has the same profile as the Zeus LT. It was a Stiff so the builder tipped it to a X-Stiff for the fairway wood, now it is still my gamer in the 4wood I carry. Again felt great, was easily workable and a good weight for the fairway wood, I don't like light weight shafts in fairway woods and hybrids. It had the same smooth feel to the shaft as the Zeus LT just heaver in weight.

 

After playing those for about 6 months when I got my new hybrid I of course was logical to give the RT Technologies Midas a try. I got blown away by the Midas, best hybrid shaft I have hit to date. It has a very SMOOTH feeling to it as the two other shafts that I have an 88g with good recovery and workability. That shaft only comes in a 0.370 so it can be tipped to specs if needed just watch out for the OEMs that make their hybrids different size hosel. TM is notorious for making fairway woods and hybrids odd sizes.

 

My irons I got fitted to by the same person as the Driver, fairway wood and hybrid. The guy knows what he is doing has 20+ years experience in doing fittings and building equipment, don't mess with something that is working well :). We did the Mizuno fitting cart and went through a bunch of shafts, He just went straight to the X-Stiff in the irons having seen my swing a few times before. It is pretty easy to put me in a X-Stiff iron shaft with a a lot of load/ lag and a lot of club head speed. This was back before the KBS C-Taper had been released, I had been playing PX shafts for a long time and the one thing I didn't like about them is the fact they feel harsh. I loved the smooth feel of the KBS Tour but had too much spin and too high launch angle for me. He recommended the KBS C-Taper (that was being released in a month or so back then). I was not sold completely on pre-ording a shaft I have never hit before, the decision to spend $35 a shaft was weighing on my mind but I eventually pulled the trigger when he told me he needed to place his first order. I got them built within 1 or 2 days of them being shipped to the distributors :) I was extremely happy with the results, Smoothest dang X-Stiff I have ever played and its playing characteristics. It doesn't even feel like and X but is stable like one and preforms like one.

 

Wedges, I was going to put the C-Tapers in but when I got my Gen 1 C.o.C. wedges I realized the C-Taper wasn't going to spin enough went with the DG x100s instead for increased spin. When I replace my wedges later this season I am going into the DG x200 just for added weight. Selecting a wedge shaft right for you is a different beast, you have to take into account if you ever swing them full for any reason. If so you need to play something as stiff as your irons with the same weight or a little heavier weight then the irons. It is more a personal thing and a fitter might be able to help you in picking a shaft right for you to maximize playability to your style of a player in the wedges. For me I swing them full, 3/4, 1/2 pitches, flops, bunks on the 52*, 56* and 60* I need something that will preform well in all conditions and swing types.

 

Putter, until recently and working with Burnt Edges Consulting I really didn't think much about putter fittings, I just knew I liked the style of the blade putter like the Scotty Cameron Newport 2 that I have and used to game. I bought a newer putter that is the same style and as it turns out it is the right style putter for my natural putting stroke :) However, I did learn that the length was wrong and lie angle is about right at 69* lie. Putting is very individual, so for me my set up is 33.5" length, 2* flat of standard, and a iomic midsize putter grip. Once you have your specifications for your putter fit to you it can act as a guide in getting you into a set up position more often. I highly recommend working with Burnt Edges Consulting on your putting and fitting guidelines.

 

Properly fitted equipment plus it being well assembled just takes one variable out of the equation you know that a missed shot is not because of the tool it is because of whom is using the tool. I find that my fittings over the years have let me be more confident in my equipment that it will preform the same on every swing, I can simply focus on just making the tool work :)

 

I don't see fittings as just for players of single digit handicaps either, I think that for some mid to high handicappers they might benefit from a good fitting and a set of clubs in that regards more then a lower handicap. You can prolong irons and equipment just by changing the shafts and lie angles as you get better and practice / play more. It is cheaper that why in terms of game development. Only time you would really need to get something new is for different playing characteristics such as cg, workability, minimal offsets, etc or that the face cracked on the driver, irons grooves are gone, wedge grooves gone, putter found the lake ;)

 

Getting fit with the equipment you got will turn into making it feel like a new set of clubs all over again. You have to go into the fitting open minded about brands and shafts. It should be personal to you not what I play or anyone else might recommend. That is how I found RT Technologies, I was open minded about it.

 

I try to keep an open mind, and the RT stuff is intriguing, but my wallet does have a bottom and I still want top grade stuff :). I'll have to scope out what sort of shafts are available at the local fitter.

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I don't have any preconceived notions as far as shafts go, I'm just not willing to shell out $300 or compromise on a "lesser" shaft for $100-200, which is what most shafts go for. One of the reasons I mentioned the Xcaliber and USPG shafts is their money back guarantee, so if they don't fit, I can return them. Fitting seems to be getting the shaft that's closest to the optimal spin/LA for your swing speed and angle of attack.

 

As for the heads, I'm not interested in changing them unless there's no shaft out there that would fit my swing with the heads I already have.

 

I think the point of a fitting is to go in open minded.

 

I can tell you right now that 'Stiff Flex' could really mean anything from a 'Senior Flex' on a frequency machine to a 'X-Stiff flex' in terms of CPM numbers. The problem is not lower quality material or manufacturing a lot of times it is lower quality control from large companies shelling out 1000s of shafts an hour.

 

It is a pretty big myth that you need a $300 shaft to have really great quality and performance, you just need one that has the right CPM numbers for your swing speed which is what a real in-depth fitting that I did for my driver shafts was mostly about.

--> Finding a CPM stiffness that fits my transition load and swing speed.

--> Finding a good profile (Stiff Butt, Medium Mid section, Stiff Tip, High Kick point) to optimize launch angle and spin

--> Finding a shaft that recovers properly for my swing (torque rating and recovery rate) for my swing

--> Finding a shaft that does all of that and doesn't feel like a board has a nice smooth feel to it, I hate feeling like I swing a 2x4 piece of wood as a shaft.

 

The shafts I play run retail at $200, RT Technology stands for Rigorously Tested (RT) Technology.

 

No shaft leaves the warehouse without the owner (Robbie) personally frequency checking the stiffness that he wants for each flex and writes the CPM on the butt of the club. Normally it has two numbers on it, the manufactures number and then the Robbie's number. You an pretty much custom order a CPM if you wanted to. My X-Stiff Zeus LT came out a 263 CPM raw and 268 CPM cut to 45" It works perfect for me and not compromising anything on a $200 shaft I wouldn't do that to my game.

 

If you get fitted properly in-depth to the stuff I listed above in your swing then you wouldn't need a money back promise. The shaft will just work, $50 or $500 price doesn't matter. The brand sure as heck doesn't matter either. It is all about the profile and stiffness that matches your swing is the important thing.

KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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It is a pretty big myth that you need a $300 shaft to have really great quality and performance, you just need one that has the right CPM numbers for your swing speed which is what a real in-depth fitting that I did for my driver shafts was mostly about.

--> Finding a CPM stiffness that fits my transition load and swing speed.

--> Finding a good profile (Stiff Butt, Medium Mid section, Stiff Tip, High Kick point) to optimize launch angle and spin

--> Finding a shaft that recovers properly for my swing (torque rating and recovery rate) for my swing

--> Finding a shaft that does all of that and doesn't feel like a board has a nice smooth feel to it, I hate feeling like I swing a 2x4 piece of wood as a shaft.

 

This answers my question pretty well. I guess I should have phrased it, "Can I get fit without spending a fortune". I'm hoping the answer is yes, but it does seem like there's no way I could figure this all out self fitting on a launch monitor.

 

The shafts I play run retail at $200, RT Technology stands for Rigorously Tested (RT) Technology.

 

You had mentioned RT before and I forgot to mention it in my list above. I like this type of company that build quality where the cost is justifiable.

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WD,

If you have never been to a fitting I suggest going to do it at least once.

 

A professional fitting will cover much more than just the shaft. As you are aware. proper length, flex, loft , lie etc...

 

In addition to the equipment concerns you will learn about your swing too. Quite possibily how to fix some of the swing issues, assuming you are willing to listen.

 

Not all professional fittings include 300 shafts. In my neck of the woods , or I should say hills, my highest priced shaft is $150. Now, I have access to much more expensive shafts as I am a mitsubishi dealer too. However we must taylor our business to the customer and the customer here like my current pricing and offerings.

 

We too affer the Xcal stuff but also offer the tourspex shaft too. We cover the spectrum.

 

Additionally, a fitting is NOT about testing the latest and greatest just because it is shinny and new. It is about the shaft actually fitting.

 

So, I would say find some time and schedule the fitting and get all info you can out of it,.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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WD,

If you have never been to a fitting I suggest going to do it at least once.

 

A professional fitting will cover much more than just the shaft. As you are aware. proper length, flex, loft , lie etc...

 

In addition to the equipment concerns you will learn about your swing too. Quite possibily how to fix some of the swing issues, assuming you are willing to listen.

 

Not all professional fittings include 300 shafts. In my neck of the woods , or I should say hills, my highest priced shaft is $150. Now, I have access to much more expensive shafts as I am a mitsubishi dealer too. However we must taylor our business to the customer and the customer here like my current pricing and offerings.

 

We too affer the Xcal stuff but also offer the tourspex shaft too. We cover the spectrum.

 

Additionally, a fitting is NOT about testing the latest and greatest just because it is shinny and new. It is about the shaft actually fitting.

 

So, I would say find some time and schedule the fitting and get all info you can out of it,.

 

That's a relief to hear :). My biggest fear is having to pay a grand based on what I'm fit for. I'm happy with a few hundred, but shaft price ranges are so vast that it boggles the mind how some can cost $300 or even $1000.

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Well, here is a quick answer. Whenever a question is asked with modifiers like always, or never, the answer is always NO,

 

In my case and the case of bcgolf who was asking about I20's vs AP1's it makes no sense in getting "professionally" fit. He is going through major rehabilitation and many of you said "get fit" before you buy. In my case, just traveling to "get fit" means that by the time I get there, I do not have my normal swing. In your case, you have no intention of buying so why do it. I played today and rode for over two hours to get there. Luckily we were there two hours early, so I was able to have some time to recover but even then, I shot 10 over for the day. 6 over on the first 4 holes. I feel like had I been able to start over after the first three holes I could have played much better. When I went at the first of the month I never did get into the groove. But I was able to gather enough information for me to know what I wanted. But it was not what a "Professional"would have come up with. Why? Because they would only see me that one time. When in reality, I drove the ball, 278 today, and hit 10 of 14 fairways, on a course I had never even seen before, I hit 9 GIR. Which is pretty good with the wind.

 

If you would look at my numbers from the fitting there is no way I could do that. So there are extenuating circumstances for many things.

 

Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

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If you're not willing to change your components, then why do a fitting.

 

If there are components you're willing to switch, then by all means, do it.

 

You mentioned not switching your heads, but being willing to switch your shafts - in that case, I'd head somewhere to a golf shop that can help you with the shafts and get fit for them.

 

I just did a fitting with Fuji (article coming as soon as the shafts arrive) - probably the most glaring part of the fitting turned out to be that I had the wrong driver head, which in turn meant that there really wasn't a "right" shaft for my current head, I needed to switch heads and shaft. The remainder of the heads in my bag were fine and we were able to find the sweet spot in shafts for each.

 

I've done several full fittings - and at each I've been told that players come in with pre conceived ideas, and in those cases it's rough trying to fit a player correctly.

 

Perfect example would be a guy going in for a fitting, his buddy plays an 8.5 head, so the guy won't settle for a 9.5 or less, but he fits in at a 15... guy won't buy it.

 

If you can go in looking for the best results possible from what's available for you to be fit into at that location, do it.

 

If not, then don't.

 

After my Fuji fitting, I think getting a shaft fitting would be WELL worth it!!! (the results from my driver fitting alone were shocking)

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If you're not willing to change your components, then why do a fitting.

 

If there are components you're willing to switch, then by all means, do it.

 

You mentioned not switching your heads, but being willing to switch your shafts - in that case, I'd head somewhere to a golf shop that can help you with the shafts and get fit for them.

 

I just did a fitting with Fuji (article coming as soon as the shafts arrive) - probably the most glaring part of the fitting turned out to be that I had the wrong driver head, which in turn meant that there really wasn't a "right" shaft for my current head, I needed to switch heads and shaft. The remainder of the heads in my bag were fine and we were able to find the sweet spot in shafts for each.

 

I've done several full fittings - and at each I've been told that players come in with pre conceived ideas, and in those cases it's rough trying to fit a player correctly.

 

Perfect example would be a guy going in for a fitting, his buddy plays an 8.5 head, so the guy won't settle for a 9.5 or less, but he fits in at a 15... guy won't buy it.

 

If you can go in looking for the best results possible from what's available for you to be fit into at that location, do it.

 

If not, then don't.

 

After my Fuji fitting, I think getting a shaft fitting would be WELL worth it!!! (the results from my driver fitting alone were shocking)

 

I wanted to wait until my driver came in to respond. I agree with you completely about needing the right driver head to start off with. Regardless of adjustability, it's best to start off with the correct loft, so I'm going to hold off hitting it until I get fit.

 

For other clubs, is that really true though? Can't you find a shaft that fits a particular club regardless of the brand? I understand some 5 irons are different lofts, but they can be bent. For the most part, assuming the same COR, a 3 wood is a 3 wood. Same for hybrids. I would entertain changing out my hybrids, but I really like my Prophet tour heads.

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I find that a fitting is always a good idea even if it is just to check up on your current specifications. Once a year I check my loft / lie angles on irons, I actually do it every 6 months but I play a lot of golf. I check to see if anything has changed in my swing and my shafts are still a fit for my current shaft / load and swing speed.

 

A fitting can verify you have the right stuff right along with a fitting verifying that you need different stuff.

 

It is ALWAYS worth the cost to find out what works in your game IMHO.

KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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wd, since you like the value versus cost equation, another shaft out there that fits that profile you might also want to give a whirl is the Talamonti PD series of shafts. I've come to know Phil over the last year or so, and to me, there's not another person on the planet that cares about their customers like he does. He offers one on one consultation with him about his product to you from his site to his eBay listings, to his facebook page, to you name it, he's reachable. I've tried a ton of shafts over the past year, and eventually, I've made my way back to his. I've had everything from stuff most people can't get their hands on off of the tour van, to stuff you can buy at retail stores, from price ranges of $25-$1,000, and I always come back telling him "Hey Phil, I've tried everything else, here's the club I'm building and I need a shaft for it". He has his PD line-up as well as his new ultralight series and a new low spin series he is releasing. So, if you're looking for another small company (it's him, and his daughters, maybe a secretary (though she may be his daughter, I don't know I always talk directly with him)) that won't break the bank, he's one to give a shot as well. I'm telling you, I fell in love with the product he offers and the service is phenominal. And his credentials are through the roof, if you want them, I can list them, but I'm sure anyone in the golf industry that has a deeper knowledge than brand recognition knows who he is.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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wd, since you like the value versus cost equation, another shaft out there that fits that profile you might also want to give a whirl is the Talamonti PD series of shafts. I've come to know Phil over the last year or so, and to me, there's not another person on the planet that cares about their customers like he does. He offers one on one consultation with him about his product to you from his site to his eBay listings, to his facebook page, to you name it, he's reachable. I've tried a ton of shafts over the past year, and eventually, I've made my way back to his. I've had everything from stuff most people can't get their hands on off of the tour van, to stuff you can buy at retail stores, from price ranges of $25-$1,000, and I always come back telling him "Hey Phil, I've tried everything else, here's the club I'm building and I need a shaft for it". He has his PD line-up as well as his new ultralight series and a new low spin series he is releasing. So, if you're looking for another small company (it's him, and his daughters, maybe a secretary (though she may be his daughter, I don't know I always talk directly with him)) that won't break the bank, he's one to give a shot as well. I'm telling you, I fell in love with the product he offers and the service is phenominal. And his credentials are through the roof, if you want them, I can list them, but I'm sure anyone in the golf industry that has a deeper knowledge than brand recognition knows who he is.

 

Thanks for the tip RB7. I did some research on Talamonti and even found your review: http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/4175-talamonti-shafts/

 

This is why I'm so torn, there are many great shafts out there that are simply unavailable at most fitters. As far as I can tell, there's no one around who will fit Xcaliber or Talamonti (or USPG/RT Technologies, but those are at a significantly higher price point) and I'm far more interested in these shafts vs the big names and really doubt there's any difference in quality based on reading about Phil and Robin.

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In my case and the case of bcgolf who was asking about I20's vs AP1's it makes no sense in getting "professionally" fit. He is going through major rehabilitation and many of you said "get fit" before you buy.

 

Funny that you mention that RoverRick :-) Just yesterday I played 18 with a physical coach, and guess what he told me, basically the same you are ! He told me in my case I should be patient, ride out the rehab this year with my current gear, and then next year get a professional fitting when my body and swing are close to 100% again ! (that being said, I did shoot my buffer again for the first time since my "accident", yeah)

 

In case of the TopicStarter. Why would you get a pro fitting if you say you don't want to buy new gear, when you allready have made up your mind about shafts, grips and so on ? I doubt you would get the most out of a fitting if you are not openminded about everything ?!

In custom James Stewart golfbag:
Ping Tour-S Rustique 60/TS & 55/13 / Ping CFS Stiff / Ping ID8
Ping i20 4-PW+UW / Ping CFS Stiff / Ping ID8
Ping G15 2H 17° & driver 9° / stiff aldila serrano / ping 703
Odyssey White Hot XG 2-Ball / 33" / 2°up
Srixon AD333 - Oakley Flack Jacket XLJ G30

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One example of a recent fitting discussion I had with the builder / fitter that I use lead to me re-gripping my clubs.

 

The discussion was all about miss tendencies, I am a very right side dominate player when my miss is going to be a big hook on irons and a lot of other clubs really. The 60* LW swing full I can get a draw off the club.

 

Anyways, we talked about the fact you can compromise by opening the face a little at address so that the head is square through impact rather then closed, you could hold of the release a little and make sure it doesn't go left but lose distance from a partial hold off release.

 

What he ended up suggesting is to build the right hand up under the grip with tape. Bubba Watson does this with 13 wraps under his left hand (bottom hand) so that he can work the ball the way he wants to. I didn't go that crazy I just went 3 wraps of double sided under the right hand and one full strip down the shaft so total I have 1 wrap under the left hand (top hand) and 4 wraps under the right hand (bottom hand) to take the right hand out of the swing a little bit more, reducing the taper rate of the grip. When building up a grips on one hand over the other you need to talk to a fitter as to what is going to work best for you and your swing.

KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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