The Perfect Driver

[A.Short]

So I'm looking at getting a new driver over the summer and i want to combine the stuff most everyone else looks for. and no matter what website I go to I cant get the answer that I'm looking for. I want adjustability, forgiveness and of course distance but i don't have the money to buy a $400 driver. At first i was thinking RBZ because its adjustable with pop nut i heard it's not the most forgiving. So I was thinking the R11 but I don't want to leave distance out there when I know the R11s is longer. I also had the Cobra AMP in mind. So heres where i come to all of you, who's hit all of these and what would be the best option? Much appreciated!!

[JMiller]

So I'm looking at getting a new driver over the summer and i want to combine the stuff most everyone else looks for. and no matter what website I go to I cant get the answer that I'm looking for. I want adjustability, forgiveness and of course distance but i don't have the money to buy a $400 driver. At first i was thinking RBZ because its adjustable with pop nut i heard it's not the most forgiving. So I was thinking the R11 but I don't want to leave distance out there when I know the R11s is longer. I also had the Cobra AMP in mind. So heres where i come to all of you, who's hit all of these and what would be the best option? Much appreciated!!

 

Well I have a few tips for you that I can share in getting something that works at a lower price.

1) To save a little $$$ look for 'last years model' (one model older then the current) you can find them new for 1/4 to 1/2 the price of the newest model and that is brand new they always go on sale once the newest model hits the self, used about 1/2 to 3/4 of the price depending on condition.

 

2) The adjustable part of a driver is more a selling point, USGA / R&A rules do not allow the adjusting of a club head during a round. You just find a position that you like your ball flight for and leave it in that position. NOTE: if you are looking at some non-adjustable drivers then find one that has a square face probably last you the longest and most workable if that is something you are interested in. If you looking for a slice fix find one that is a closed face, hook fix open face.

 

3) R11s vs R11s TP = shaft options, if you don't care about the 'made for' shafts and plain to put an after market shaft in the club then don't get the TP model. NOTE: on older TM non-adjustable heads the TP model was a 1* open face typically and the regular version was a 1* closed face. I don't know why the heck they didn't just make one model at a square face personally, guess to make more money off people.

 

4) If you are a high swing speed player (110mph and over) you should spend a little more money up front for a fitting on loft, shaft, etc to get the proper combination, you can lose 10 - 50 yards in distance just from improper driver / shaft higher the swing speed the more important it becomes.

 

5) If you are a good player single digit handicap or better, get fit for all equipment (more money up front) and trust that it works for you, save the money you would have spent on clubs for when the equipment is worn out and absolutely needs replaced or something drastic has changed in your swing that can't be fixed by simple lie or loft adjustments or a re-shaft / re-grip.

[JohnBarry]

You need to go and hit all the drivers, can't stress enough, no one's opinion will matter vs you hitting them in person.

[Matt Saternus]

Not trying to be contrary, but can I ask why you want adjustability? Not that I'm against it (I play an adjustable driver), I'm just curious why it 's on the "must have" list.

 

I haven't hit enough of the new drivers enough to have definitive, comparative opinions about one against the other. I can say based on my fittings that the RAZR Fit is a beast. You could try to find one used for under $400. If adjustability is not a must have, then I'd look at the G20 or G15 for long and forgiving.

[BK in TEXAS]

I like to tinker. I use the TM line of heads simply because of that. All the heads & all the shafts are interchangeable (R9,R11,R11S,RBZ). I like that. The adapters are readily available & cheap too.

 

Anyway, the R11 is a good head. But don't overlook the R9 Supertri either. It too is a darn good head with the right shaft (and can be had for a song on fleabay nowadays).

 

That said, getting fit, in the long run, will end up saving you money.

[GolfSpy WD]

If you're looking to save money, the R11 is a decent way to go. Personally if I didn't get my R11s for a stupidly low price I would have gotten the Maltby BM3: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_MA0220_A_quick_order_E_true_A_c2p_E_hp. It's adjustable in the only way that really matters, weight port and face open/neutral/closed.

 

The benefit of the swappable shafts is it's cool and makes things easier for tinkerers. The downside is you're adding weight at the wrong part of the head. Most OEMs have gotten it down to 8g or so, so it's negligible, but 8g would still be better somewhere else.

 

I'm also not sure I'd believe that the R11s is longer than the R11 or that the RBZ is less forgiving than the R11. As John said, you have to go out and try them. Force yourself to try something other than TM too, you might be surprised.

 

Another very good option in the Titleist 910 lineup. There are two different drivers to choose from, the D2 and D3.

[A.Short]

I want adjustability because im a developing player. I know my swing is going to change as i develop and i don't want to get fit then my swing change and it be fitted the wrong way. I also like the concept of being able to change the loft, if its windy then i can lower it a bit. Im not good enough yet to be able to hit stingers consistently when i want to all the time.

[JMiller]

I want adjustability because im a developing player. I know my swing is going to change as i develop and i don't want to get fit then my swing change and it be fitted the wrong way. I also like the concept of being able to change the loft, if its windy then i can lower it a bit. Im not good enough yet to be able to hit stingers consistently when i want to all the time.

 

Like I was saying in my original post, it is against USGA / R&A rules to adjust a driver during a 'stipulated round' which is pretty much all 18 hole rounds. Here is the rule if you want to read it --> http://www.usga.org/Rule-Books/Rules-of-Golf/Rule-04/#4-2

 

There is not really a quick fix in golf, if you want to get better and really develop your game get any driver with a square face and learn to control the shot shape and trajectory over time, take lessons and develop your game properly. My suggestion if you want to go that direction is to get a Adams Fast 10 or Adams 9032LS both have square club faces and are good heads, the Fast 10 has better 'forgiveness' and 9032 is a touch more workable if you want to know the difference. Both would be dirt cheap at this point less then $100 in good condition.

[GolfSpy WD]

I want adjustability because im a developing player. I know my swing is going to change as i develop and i don't want to get fit then my swing change and it be fitted the wrong way. I also like the concept of being able to change the loft, if its windy then i can lower it a bit. Im not good enough yet to be able to hit stingers consistently when i want to all the time.

 

I'm in the same boat as you. I'm trying everything I can to lower my handicap. One question I would have is how long have you been playing and how fast can you swing your club well? If you're better suited for 10.5* degree driver, but later as you gain swing speed need a 9*, no adjustability will help because changing a 9* head to 10.5* is going to close the clubface by 1.5*, which may give you a bad swing. So you may find yourself needing a new driver before you know it anyway.

 

Personally I like knowing how to build my own clubs, so as I progress as a golfer, I can adjust my clubs by swapping out shafts myself. It's cheaper in two ways: 1) You can often buy the shafts cheaper than retail off ebay from reputable merchants and 2) You don't have to pay someone to pull and install the shaft. It's easy with practice, but does have an upfront cost of buying some equipment.

 

If you still want the latest and greatest. Try out different clubs, if you like the Titleist 910D2 or D3, you can get them 18% off at golf discount for their stock offerings (coupon code golfspy). Along with the R11 series and Razr Fit Tour Authentic, their clubs are the most adjustable.

 

Edit: What I meant to say is no adjustability beats getting the right shaft. The other than to consider is you can "adjust" by simply changing balls. So go for higher compression balls when the wind is high, they'll spin less and roll farther without as much carry.

[GolfSpy WD]

Like I was saying in my original post, it is against USGA / R&A rules to adjust a driver during a 'stipulated round' which is pretty much all 18 hole rounds. Here is the rule if you want to read it --> http://www.usga.org/Rule-Books/Rules-of-Golf/Rule-04/#4-2

 

There is not really a quick fix in golf, if you want to get better and really develop your game get any driver with a square face and learn to control the shot shape and trajectory over time, take lessons and develop your game properly. My suggestion if you want to go that direction is to get a Adams Fast 10 or Adams 9032LS both have square club faces and are good heads, the Fast 10 has better 'forgiveness' and 9032 is a touch more workable if you want to know the difference. Both would be dirt cheap at this point less then $100 in good condition.

 

Divot.com is selling the F11 today for $99. If you're really a beginner, I'd suggest the 10.5* head with regular flex.

[JBones]

If you're looking to save money, the R11 is a decent way to go. Personally if I didn't get my R11s for a stupidly low price I would have gotten the Maltby BM3: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_MA0220_A_quick_order_E_true_A_c2p_E_hp. It's adjustable in the only way that really matters, weight port and face open/neutral/closed.

 

The benefit of the swappable shafts is it's cool and makes things easier for tinkerers. The downside is you're adding weight at the wrong part of the head. Most OEMs have gotten it down to 8g or so, so it's negligible, but 8g would still be better somewhere else.

I am also a fan of the component companies. Wishon has come out with an adjustable driver also and I will probably be gaming it next year.

 

http://wishongolf.com/designs/drivers/739-ccg/

[JMiller]

Divot.com is selling the F11 today for $99. If you're really a beginner, I'd suggest the 10.5* head with regular flex.

 

F11 is actually a even better head didn't know they were down to $100 that's a great deal

[Matt Saternus]

I want adjustability because im a developing player. I know my swing is going to change as i develop and i don't want to get fit then my swing change and it be fitted the wrong way. I also like the concept of being able to change the loft, if its windy then i can lower it a bit. Im not good enough yet to be able to hit stingers consistently when i want to all the time.

 

Just so you're aware "lowering the loft" means opening the clubface, too.

 

My inclination is to say that as you grow into "your" swing, the adjustability of the club may help you with regard to direction, but it may or may not keep you optimized for distance. Things like angle of attack are likely to change, which may require a shaft or head change more than a "loft" tweak.

 

Again, not trying to be contrary, but what is your S2 doing or not doing that you are unhappy with? Despite what the OEMs would like you to believe, there's not a lot of difference between drivers from two years ago vs. the ones on the shelf today.

[JMiller]

Just so you're aware "lowering the loft" means opening the clubface, too.

 

My inclination is to say that as you grow into "your" swing, the adjustability of the club may help you with regard to direction, but it may or may not keep you optimized for distance. Things like angle of attack are likely to change, which may require a shaft or head change more than a "loft" tweak.

 

Again, not trying to be contrary, but what is your S2 doing or not doing that you are unhappy with? Despite what the OEMs would like you to believe, there's not a lot of difference between drivers from two years ago vs. the ones on the shelf today.

 

Great point the -1 position of my Adams Speedline Fast 12 LS is 1* open, -1* loft, 0.5* more upright, you have to square the face to get the effective loft otherwise you'll watch it go way to the cut / slice side. If you have a slice already this is a disaster.

[RookieBlue7]

I'd advise a fitting. Opinions are out there all over the place on every club you can imagine (and some you didn't likely even knew existed). But, with that said, nothing is going to replace a good fitting. And, most places will credit at least part of the fitting fee toward the purchase of the club if you purchase from them. Me, personally, I trade clubs as often as some people change underwear, but I also am a club ***** that loves to tinker. I tinker in the winter/offseason and once spring rolls around, my bag stays set until at least the fall (might change a wedge or fairway in or out here or there for conditions or set-up of the course).

 

I could give you my thoughts on the 13 drivers I tried again this season to find the one, but it's likely not going to do you a bit of good unless your swing is identical to mine.

[JBones]

Just so you're aware "lowering the loft" means opening the clubface, too.

Thats why I'm a fan of Wishons new adjustable driver; you can hand select the loft/lie up to 4* difference and the face angle by 2*. Then you can change the overall weight and launch angle, with the changeable weights. The only downfall is that you can't just use a wrench to change the face angle, you have to have it bent, but that's the main reason I love Wishons offerings. As a club builder (for myself, family, and friends) Wishons offerings can't be beat when it comes to adjustability.

[GolfSpy WD]

Thats why I'm a fan of Wishons new adjustable driver; you can hand select the loft/lie up to 4* difference and the face angle by 2*. Then you can change the overall weight and launch angle, with the changeable weights. The only downfall is that you can't just use a wrench to change the face angle, you have to have it bent, but that's the main reason I love Wishons offerings. As a club builder (for myself, family, and friends) Wishons offerings can't be beat when it comes to adjustability.

 

I really like that their drivers, fairways, and hybrids all have metal hosels that can be bent. It's simple yet ingenious. The main problem is no one else does it, so finding a fitter that can bend them is very hard. I assume Wishon bend them when you order them?

[JBones]

I really like that their drivers, fairways, and hybrids all have metal hosels that can be bent. It's simple yet ingenious. The main problem is no one else does it, so finding a fitter that can bend them is very hard. I assume Wishon bend them when you order them?

Yes, you can "hand select" your options and they will bend it or you can take it to a fitter.

[A.Short]

Like I was saying in my original post, it is against USGA / R&A rules to adjust a driver during a 'stipulated round' which is pretty much all 18 hole rounds. Here is the rule if you want to read it --> http://www.usga.org/Rule-Books/Rules-of-Golf/Rule-04/#4-2

 

There is not really a quick fix in golf, if you want to get better and really develop your game get any driver with a square face and learn to control the shot shape and trajectory over time, take lessons and develop your game properly. My suggestion if you want to go that direction is to get a Adams Fast 10 or Adams 9032LS both have square club faces and are good heads, the Fast 10 has better 'forgiveness' and 9032 is a touch more workable if you want to know the difference. Both would be dirt cheap at this point less then $100 in good condition.

 

__________

 

I'm not saying mid round I want to change my loft, I can do that before the round starts. And to respond to some other questions I started playing last summer. I fell absolutely in love with the game and I'm 17 with a coach lined up for summer. My average swing speed is between 108 and 110, but if I really want to crank it out there I've reached 117 with the ball going were I want it. And thanks for the help guys, I got myself into golf so at the moment I don't have someone to talk to about questions but hopefully this summer that will change with my swing coach.

[A.Short]

Im also not aware of my handicap, once my school year ends that will be the first thing I do. At the moment I don't have much time to actually play because of school sports but I practice golf after my practice ends. My normal round at the end of last year was low 90's with my lowest round being an 86 on a par 72. And I love my S2 but like a few of you have said, I just want a change of scenery. I'm young and always want the best, especially growing up in a generation where technology is a game changer in every sport. And growing up playing baseball, we always replaced bats because of loss of 'pop'. I have to believe a driver is the same way. It's a composite and metal object that you hit another hard object with, that's another reason I want a new driver, just because I'm afraid of losing yards because I've hit so many balls with my current.

[GolfSpy WD]

Im also not aware of my handicap, once my school year ends that will be the first thing I do. At the moment I don't have much time to actually play because of school sports but I practice golf after my practice ends. My normal round at the end of last year was low 90's with my lowest round being an 86 on a par 72. And I love my S2 but like a few of you have said, I just want a change of scenery. I'm young and always want the best, especially growing up in a generation where technology is a game changer in every sport. And growing up playing baseball, we always replaced bats because of loss of 'pop'. I have to believe a driver is the same way. It's a composite and metal object that you hit another hard object with, that's another reason I want a new driver, just because I'm afraid of losing yards because I've hit so many balls with my current.

 

If you want to go out and buy something, none of us will stop you, but don't worry about losing distance because a driver is a year old. Someone posted in another thread an article written by Tom Wishon, which showed there's essentially no way 99% of golfers will wear out their clubs, especially not in a year or even five years.

 

Be patient and get lessons first, I'm sure you won't regret it.