What length of driver do you use?

[dooboo]

So, I've been using a 46" long driver up until couple of months ago, thinking that the longer driver will give me few more yards.

Even Mygolfspy lab has done an article on this topic, however, I just was somewhat 'brainwashed" with major brands marketing/ads.

 

Of course, I was spraying the ball all over the place, very hard to control where my ball was going.

 

After reading the spy lab article, I decided to cut the driver length down to 44.5", and to see how that would play. I didn't do the "swing weight" mods, just played with cut down shafts. My driver accuracy has been so much better, even the bad misses are somewhere I am able to find a ball. Since ball travels straighter, I feel like I gained few yards off the tee as well. More I swing, more confidence it brings. I was, "man, why didn't I do this?"

 

Then visit the sporting goods store, I still find driver that plays 46"+ off the shelf. Why in the world would the club manufacturers still do this? Why don't they promote more accuracy off the tee than 10 yards longer?

My playing buddy who plays the 46" driver, tried mind and loved it. I told him to cut it off 1 1/2" off to make it 44.5, however, he still feels that with few more practice, he can get his driver to hit accurately and longer than if he would cut it down. Something about length of the driver and doesn't want to lose the "potential" distance he could get.

 

do you guys think that the shorter drivers will make a come back? I know even fairways woods are getting to that 43-44" range of a drivers from few years back.

 

I think this game is frustrating enough, I think club manufacturers makes it even worse, in my opinion. Average golfers just want to hit longer with longer clubs...I guess.

 

so, I want to know what driver length you hit to get some idea what people are hitting.

[JBones]

I play two drivers, one for tournament play and the other for bombing away. While I switch out the heads often, the tournament shaft I keep at 44.25" and the other I keep at 45"; those lengths change slightly when using different heads. I haven't found that I'm a whole lot more accurate, but I am hitting the center of the club face more, so my distance is more accurate. I'm only missing dead center of the face a couple times a round, opposed to only catching it 3-4 times a round at 46", and those that aren't dead center are only off enough to cost me a few yards. I have been playing those lengths for a while now; now that I pair those lengths with an accurate shaft, I'm hitting more fairways at a more consistent distance, which in turn has given me more confidence and has me playing great. As the labs article showed, the little distance given up with a shorter shaft is well worth the consistency gained.

[GolfSpy WD]

Last year I was playing a 47" shaft for the 1 in 50 shots that went really far. I went down to 46" and am now a hair shorter than 45". No way I'd go back to a longer shaft, I'm even considering trimming down my 3w so I can hit that better.

[Kanoito]

I play 45" and it's great! On a bad day I'll choke down 0.5".

But I would never go over 45".

[Flv02]

I love mine and it is 45". Been having trouble lately and choke down like Steven .5" at the most. Those are my personal maximums and minimums. 45 and 44.5.

[BK in TEXAS]

44.0" Driver

42.5" 3 wood

41.5" 5 wood

 

I am much more consistent (both accuracy and distance) with the shorter lengths.

 

 

BK

[apprenti23]

45.5" driver here but im pretty good so don't have too many problems hitting fairways. Give me a club and I'll find a way to make it work. My 45.5 driver is made to my specs though so no need to change my swing to fit it. I miss fairways because of bad swings not bc my club is too long.

[GolfSpy Barbajo]

My 910 D2 is standard length - 45." Usually choke down about a half an inch at least -- sometimes more.

[fairwaygolfusa]

I play a 44.5 inch driver but recently got a driver at 45inches because I didnt see a huge difference in accuracy between those two.

 

Might as well use the the 45 than ya kno?

 

-Ryan

FairwayGolfUSA.com

facebook.com/fairwaygolf

[Super Tuna]

44.5 for my driver

42.5 for the my 3 wood

 

My accuracy seriously goes down the longer the shaft gets due to my funky release. These are where we found the sweet spot for me.

[Matt Saternus]

Been playing 44" or 44.5" for a number of years.

[revkev]

45" because it's what I was fit for -

 

Like lots of others I tried the 46" stock shaft for a while - lost one of my best attributes which is driving accuracy for what? The pomise of a few yards. Frankly I hit the 45" just as far as the 46" when they're both flushed and I flush the 45" way more frequently than the 46". The bigger difference comes on misshits - because it's easier to swing the 45" properly my misshits are playable.

 

Go get fit, the fitter will get you into the proper shaft length, flex, kick point, head type, swing weight, grip size, etc., etc., etc. You'll think you went out and purchased a brand new club.

[RoverRick]

Then visit the sporting goods store, I still find driver that plays 46"+ off the shelf. Why in the world would the club manufacturers still do this? Why don't they promote more accuracy off the tee than 10 yards longer?

 

.....

 

I think this game is frustrating enough, I think club manufacturers makes it even worse, in my opinion. Average golfers just want to hit longer with longer clubs...I guess.

 

 

 

Callaway billed the FT9 as the "Shotmaker's Driver". It supposedly gave players the ablility to "work" the ball. Well, I had one. I could work the ball with it. However, it allowed me to do it, my ablility came from good fundamentals.

 

The problem with marketing this way is that golfers are more worried about 300 yards drives than hitting the fairway. Which is OK because I make money off of those people all the time.

 

Bottom line, Distance claims sell. Accuracy claims do not sell.

 

 

 

 

To answer your question though, my Callaway Razr Fit Driver measures 46". I did hit every fairway (12) today, and was long and deep. This was not the case yesterday, but yesterday was not the drivers fault.

[TwoSolitudes]

The CG Black is 46 and so far so good. My Rapture V2 is 45.75 and I hit that pretty well for along time. I find that once I use drivers less than 45 I see a drop in average distance, while anything over 46 (Hello Cleveland XL270) just kills my ball speed numbers as well as my accuracy.

 

45-45.5 is probably the best fit for me overall. But its hard to find stock lengths at that length these days- and I just hate cutting down and putting lead tape on the head. A slight choke down does the trick.

[revkev]

@ Two Solitudes - why not just order a driver with a shorter shaft? Trust me wherever you're buying your clubs from will be glad to assist you with a special order.

 

I remain amazed that lower scores isn't what sells in regards to golf but there is no doubt in my mind that Rick rover's observation is right. The big manufacturers have figured out that most people would rather brag about driving distance and the club hit into a green than about the score that they shot or how low their handicap is.

 

Oh well they can have their bragging rights and I'll be happy to stand in line for my share of their cash too.

[GolfSpy WD]

@ Two Solitudes - why not just order a driver with a shorter shaft? Trust me wherever you're buying your clubs from will be glad to assist you with a special order.

 

I remain amazed that lower scores isn't what sells in regards to golf but there is no doubt in my mind that Rick rover's observation is right. The big manufacturers have figured out that most people would rather brag about driving distance and the club hit into a green than about the score that they shot or how low their handicap is.

 

Oh well they can have their bragging rights and I'll be happy to stand in line for my share of their cash too.

 

It's also very easy to remove the grip, butt trim the shaft, and put on a new grip. Not too expensive either and very cheap if you do it yourself.

[JMiller]

First I want to rant about the bulls*** "longer is better" mentality in all clubs, that only holds true IF you can hit the sweet spot still. I am a firm believer that 99% of golfers would benefit from a shorter shaft. However, I will give the following advise... Play the longest length that you can consistently pull a 1.47 smash factor or higher from it. MGS did a cool article on this in their "labs" section --> http://www.mygolfspy.com/mgs-labs-is-longer-really-longer/

 

With that said I will say this... play the longest Driver shaft that you can pull a 1.47 or higher smash factor on it 90% of the time. I currently play a 45.00" Driver but have been seriously considering going down to a 44.75" or even a 44.50" Driver. I might add the PGA Tour Driver length is 44.50", that includes Mr. Bubba Watson and he is 6'3" from what I have read. Tiger is 45" (used to play a 43" steel shaft when first on tour), Phil 45" (but has experimented with longer). Maybe they know something that we don't about ball striking and the length of driver they need?

 

I have heard of guys playing anything from 43.50" to 45.00" rare to see a 46.00" or longer on anything but the REMAX LDA Tour.

[TwoSolitudes]

@ Two Solitudes - why not just order a driver with a shorter shaft? Trust me wherever you're buying your clubs from will be glad to assist you with a special order.

 

Well, I usually buy used or demo clubs so custom ordering is not really available. I have thought about just trimming down myself but I worry (maybe too much?) about the swing weight changes. The CG Black is D2 (and the V2 was as well) cutting an inch off that would be -6 weight points if I am not mistaken. So a C-6 weight driver? Wouldn't the weight of the head just vanish? Then we are back to adding lead tape- but that is an awful lot of tape to add up to 6 points.

 

Might be an interesting experiment to see if average Joe golfer will be adversely affected by significant changes in swing weight. But I don't want to do that experiment on my new driver!

[BK in TEXAS]

Might be an interesting experiment to see if average Joe golfer will be adversely affected by significant changes in swing weight. But I don't want to do that experiment on my new driver!

 

When I cut mine down to 44" I experimented adding weight to the head to offset it, and it felt funny. After several weight changes I ended up with the head weighted just the same as with the standard length shaft. Go figure. You might hate it though because most likely everyone feels weight differently.

 

BK

[GolfSpy WD]

Well, I usually buy used or demo clubs so custom ordering is not really available. I have thought about just trimming down myself but I worry (maybe too much?) about the swing weight changes. The CG Black is D2 (and the V2 was as well) cutting an inch off that would be -6 weight points if I am not mistaken. So a C-6 weight driver? Wouldn't the weight of the head just vanish? Then we are back to adding lead tape- but that is an awful lot of tape to add up to 6 points.

 

Might be an interesting experiment to see if average Joe golfer will be adversely affected by significant changes in swing weight. But I don't want to do that experiment on my new driver!

 

I had the same predicament when I was gaming an Acer Leggera, which is a 190g club head. You have a few options if you don't want to use lead tape:

 

1) Remove the shaft from the club head and add a 8g tip weight to offset 4 points for D0 or 12g tip weight for D2. The issue with tip weights is they add weight at the wrong place. The ideal place is at the bottom of the club head, place forward or back depending on desired launch characteristics.

 

2) Replace the shaft with something heavier, each 9g of shaft weight adds 1 point. The CG Black has a 39g shaft, so this may be your easiest option. You can get some very good shafts pretty cheap from ebay or Xcaliber.

 

3) Replace the grip with something lighter, each 5g of grip weight is 1 point. I'm not sure how much of an option this is since they probably already use a very light grip.

 

4) Sell the club in the classifieds, use the money to buy a new (used) club that is heavier

 

• Club weight: 265 g

• Club length: 46”

• Swingweight: D2

• Shaft: Miyazaki C. Kua 39 Limited Edition (A, R, S flexes)

• Head volume: 460 cc

• Face angle: Square

[RookieBlue7]

I play mine at 44.75" and choke down 1/4".

 

As for why manufacturers don't sell clubs at shorter lengths to promote accuracy. Accuracy doesn't sell, but distance does. With the heads maxed out as much as they can legally get to at this point, the only way to add distance is to increase shaft length. People go into stores looking for more distance, not more accuracy, so they naturally market to what people want.

[dooboo]

I might add the PGA Tour Driver length is 44.50", that includes Mr. Bubba Watson and he is 6'3" from what I have read. Tiger is 45" (used to play a 43" steel shaft when first on tour), Phil 45" (but has experimented with longer). Maybe they know something that we don't about ball striking and the length of driver they need?

Exactly my thought.

[TwoSolitudes]

2) Replace the shaft with something heavier, each 9g of shaft weight adds 1 point. The CG Black has a 39g shaft, so this may be your easiest option. You can get some very good shafts pretty cheap from ebay or Xcaliber.

 

I am using the stiff 47gr shaft now. 39 is the model, not the weight. I would need a nearly 100 gram shaft to stay at D2 with 45".I would imagine that I would be able to feel that change pretty dramatically. Anyway I am still loving this driver so no need for any drastic action.

 

Of the newer drivers it was the Callaway FTiz that really showed me what a 45" shaft could do. I could hit that as far as any 46" shafted driver of the time. Too bad the head fell apart.

 

It's easy to point at the tour guys and say they use 44 or 43 so we should too- but I think that is as wrong as simply saying more length equals more distance. The pros have massive club head speed even at those shorter lengths, they don't need more. They are also routinely hitting the sweet spot and getting near maximum returns from each swing. So with zero worries on ball speed or swing speed of course they focus on control and shorten the length.

 

For us mortals, getting more distance is just as important as the control. In fact most like me would be happy to give up a bit of dispersion to pick up some yards. Moving from 260 averages to 275 averages won't have much impact on a round, but moving from 190 to 215 will mean the difference between breaking 90 or shooting over 100.

 

I would second jmiller065's comment. If you are an amateur, play the longest shaft you can comfortably control and keep in the fairway.

[Matt Saternus]

Two Solitudes: I think our conclusion is the same (play the longest shaft you can control), and I wouldn't advise people to play a club that's unnecessarily short, but don't discount the impact of center-face contact on distance. The math is pretty clear: adding an inch is much less valuable than hitting the center of the face. If distance is at a premium, that means hitting the center of the face is priority #1.

[JMiller]

EDIT Matt beat me to the punch:

Two Solitudes: I think our conclusion is the same (play the longest shaft you can control), and I wouldn't advise people to play a club that's unnecessarily short, but don't discount the impact of center-face contact on distance. The math is pretty clear: adding an inch is much less valuable than hitting the center of the face. If distance is at a premium, that means hitting the center of the face is priority #1.

 

Swing speed does not directly factor into distance. Ball speed is directly related to distance not swing speed, you have to efficiently transfer swing speed into ball speed or more commonly known on a LM as "smash factor".

 

Let me give you a perfect example, all of the 150 mph ball speed would be about a 250 yard carry:

150 mph ball speed / 1.5 smash factor = 100mph swing speed

150 mph ball speed / 1.36 smash factor = 110.29 mph swing speed.

150 mph ball speed / 1.25 smash factor = 120mph swing speed.

 

You are more likely to actually gain distance by playing the longest shaft you can still hit the sweet spot 8 or 9 times out of 10 with and get a 1.47 or higher smash factor.

 

This means for majority of Amateurs including professionals 99% of the time it is going to be in the neighborhood of 44.50" +/- 1", like I was saying we shouldn't play it just because the pros do, we should play what works for us and most likely that is actually going to be "under standard" and not "over standard" in terms of length.

 

I want to add again length is not the only thing that factors into contact and energy transfer, shaft weight does as well. you can have a 44.5" roughly 85g, 75g, 65g, 55g, 45g weights and get different smash factors from them and possibly different swing speeds.

 

In short "longer" and/ or "lighter" only works to your advantage IF AND ONLY IF you can keep a good smash factor.

 

Tour Pros are not immortals they just have proper sequencing in the down swing to build more energy.

[BK in TEXAS]

I want to add again length is not the only thing that factors into contact and energy transfer, shaft weight does as well. you can have a 44.5" roughly 85g, 75g, 65g, 55g, 45g weights and get different smash factors from them and possibly different swing speeds.

I did not know that. How does the shaft weight influence the smash factor?

 

Bk

[revkev]

I have to weigh in (pun intended) on JMiller's remark. I look long and hard at smash factor when picking a driver - I actually find that I hit the ball the fartherest when my swing speed is at 94 with the proper launch angle and spin because that's the speed I can hit the center of the ball most frequently at thereby producing the highest smash factor - there are probably multiple clubhead/shaft/swing weight combinations that could be used to get me there - I'm finding that it's fairly easy for me to keep it there and under control with my current maltby shaft and Adams F11 10.5 loft (1 degree closed) head - I'm starting to get very confident with that club.

 

@ Two Solitudes I feel your pain - it's very scary for me to be competing against guys who hit it 260-270 when I hit it 230-240 - I can tell you that there is a difference between 260 and 275 though - it's the same 15 yards or a club to a club and a half into the green as it would be for the guy looking to go from 190-205.

 

I'd say the difficulty of the longer shaft is that you are most likely going to go 180, 160, 215, 175, 180, 207, 150 than the 180, 190, 185, 190, 195, 185 you'd get with the club you can hit consistently - which club are you longer with?

 

I've had to come to grips with the fact that I don't hit the ball very far for a low handicap golfer and so I've learned how to compenstate by being accurate, consistent and playing position very well - kind of like shooting pool.

 

JMiller is saying it by smash factor I'll do it differently - you need to use the longest club you can that you hit solidly at least 80 percent of the time - it might be a strong 3 wood - it might be that you could find that extra 15 yards with a 12 degree loft and a 45 inch senior shaft - don't leave out any possibility.

[JMiller]

I did not know that. How does the shaft weight influence the smash factor?

 

Bk

 

Feel of the head, I can't feel the head worth nothing on super light weight shafts, more then likely will negatively impact smash factor. I might have a slower swing speed with a 85g but get better feel of the head to make better contact. It is mostly a feel thing honestly, not real scientific on that one. Lighter might be faster SS but again lose feel of the head lose contact ability a little.

 

I personally like a 75g in a driver, I play the lightest weight shaft I ever would in a driver currently at 68g. You have guys on the champions tour playing 85 and 95g shafts in the driver because of feel of the head. I like a 85 or 95g in my fairway metal. I like at least a 85g in my rescue (mine is currently 88g) I might even benefit a little from a 95, 105, or higher in the rescue club as my irons are all 130g. It plays more like an iron then a fairway metal anyways.

 

JMiller is saying it by smash factor I'll do it differently - you need to use the longest club you can that you hit solidly at least 80 percent of the time - it might be a strong 3 wood - it might be that you could find that extra 15 yards with a 12 degree loft and a 45 inch senior shaft - don't leave out any possibility.

 

I was focusing on the OP question of driver shaft length. You have a valid point a 11.5 - 13* fairway metal is a great option for a club off the tee, they are "standard" 43.00" (well depends of course that is my consideration for "standard" anyways). The additional loft and 2" shorter shaft makes them an easier club to hit. A lot am Amateurs could use more loft on their Driver to maximize distance anyways. Regardless yes having a strong 3 wood is a good alternative.

[BK in TEXAS]

Feel of the head, I can't feel the head worth nothing on super light weight shafts, more then likely will negatively impact smash factor. I might have a slower swing speed with a 85g but get better feel of the head to make better contact. It is mostly a feel thing honestly, not real scientific on that one. Lighter might be faster SS but again lose feel of the head lose contact ability a little.

 

Got it. It goes back to making the best possible contact....makes sense.

 

I'm with ya on the heavier shafts too. I play an 80g Proto-by-you in my Driver, 3 & 5.

 

BK

[RookieBlue7]

I hit my 13 degree 3 wood as much as I do my driver now, likely more (I know I do at my now reopened home course). I finally found one I love and can pretty much point and shoot with in the original Nike SasQuatch (had one in 13 and 17 a long time ago and sold them. Found one in a bargain bin used, bought it for $25, brought it home and stripped down the skymarked head, sanded it and refinished it in white polymer). I hit that club pretty much anywhere I want 260-265 yards all day long. Now, I find my driver getting less and less use unless it's a long par 4 or par 5. I almost exclusively tee off with the 13 degree 3 wood. I chopped it down to 43.25 inches (1/4" longer than my standard loft 3 wood). It's all about control to me.

 

For those looking for consistency, IMO, I'd much rather a guy give up distance and find the fairway more. Why? Because studies have shown that the average amateur hits the green more often from the short grass. 10 extra yards doesn't really mean much to me, nor most amateurs, IMO, if it's 10 more yards in the rough half of the time. I'm in the controllable length equals more consistency camp. I'd rather a guy consistently hit it 215 and in the fairway than hit is 240 and spray it with a 30 yard dispersion because of a longer shaft. I'd be willing to bet a decent sum of money, as well, that taking the same amateur golfer and having him play all the par 4's and 5's on a given course from 215 yards off the tee in the fairway will score much better than an amateur you take and drop balls all over the place (say 5 of 14 fairways, the rest in the rough and edge of the woods, etc) on the course from 240 yards from the tee. I'll take the wager on the guy playing from 10 of 14 fairways over the guy playing from 5 of 14 fairways all day long.

 

Find a controllable club you can consistently hit the center of the clubface and I'll promise you that you'll score better.

 

Speaking on that, anyone know where I can find a Cleveland HiBore XLS 2 wood? I want to test it against my strong 3.