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Extending a graphite shaft


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Has anyone extended a graphite shaft using an old graphite shaft? I've read on a few other forums that it's a pretty widely used procedure. I've tried my drivers at 44.25" and I'm not hitting any more fairways than I do at 45", so I'm wanting to extend my driver by about 1". Any thoughts on this?

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The only problem extending this way is you're going to have a significant rib from the graphite shaft. Remember, steel you can do this with because they're much thinner walls. Graphite can be as thick as 3/16" at the butt (some more, some less). You're better off using a graphite shaft extender so there's no huge gap at the butt. They're cheap too, if I had any lying around I'd send you one for free, but I don't have any more. This is what you want to extend graphite: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GSE Notice it has a lip on it so it'll be even with the butt of the graphite shaft. You'd have problems slip fitting a shaft inside a graphite shaft and have the grip not twist at the butt.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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double post

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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How far down into the shaft do you insert the extension?

 

Cut an old graphite shaft and give it a lip about half an inch reasonably fit to the inside butt diameter. You can make the lip with a grinder, a hacksaw or a knife. The grinder is easiest. Use epoxy to attach. Don't worry too much about the extension, there is no pressure on it in normal use if you are only extending inside of an inch and a half. A layer of tape will cover the work and installing the grip gets you good to go.

 

 

Shambles

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The only problem extending this way is you're going to have a significant rib from the graphite shaft. Remember, steel you can do this with because they're much thinner walls. Graphite can be as thick as 3/16" at the butt (some more, some less). You're better off using a graphite shaft extender so there's no huge gap at the butt. They're cheap too, if I had any lying around I'd send you one for free, but I don't have any more. This is what you want to extend graphite: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GSE Notice it has a lip on it so it'll be even with the butt of the graphite shaft. You'd have problems slip fitting a shaft inside a graphite shaft and have the grip not twist at the butt.

 

This also would be my recommendation, good post RookieBlue

Callaway Epic Max 12.0 (-1/N) @ 44.50" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7 Stiff

Callaway Epic Speed 18.0* @ 42.75" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-8 Stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro 23.0* @ 40.00" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 95 HYB Stiff

Sub-70 639 Combo (5-P) w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Stiff, Standard Length, Weak Lofts (27-47, 4* gaps)

Callaway MD5 Raw 51-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 55-13 X-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 59-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 63-09 C-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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I was going to go with a GolfWorks extender, but I have a tourney this weekend and this is a backup driver I wanted to try this with. I put a Talamonti PD-80 in my Adams 9032LD, but it's only 44.25" total length. The course I'm playing has 3-4 par 4's that are driveable and the 44.25" just isn't going to get there. I'm not worried about the driver "failing" in any fashion as I can get around this course no problem without a driver. If this does work out, I'm going to get some "real" extenders and extended my other two drivers back out to 45-45.5".

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

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I was going to go with a GolfWorks extender, but I have a tourney this weekend and this is a backup driver I wanted to try this with. I put a Talamonti PD-80 in my Adams 9032LD, but it's only 44.25" total length. The course I'm playing has 3-4 par 4's that are driveable and the 44.25" just isn't going to get there. I'm not worried about the driver "failing" in any fashion as I can get around this course no problem without a driver. If this does work out, I'm going to get some "real" extenders and extended my other two drivers back out to 45-45.5".

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

I extended all my steel iron shafts on my Fourteens that way, a one inch extension each. It's real. Old wisdom is that there is no effect and all I wanted was a longer shaft, but my shafts all ended up a bit softer and luckily, the flex suits me better. The fit is so good I might replace my precious Eye 2's, at least for a reasonable period of time.

 

The added length took me a few rounds getting used to and learning the changes.

 

 

Shambles

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Here's what will happen if you don't turn them down right of using graphite (find one with thick walls as you're gonna remove a good bit of material for it to fit inside). Using steel in this example for the contrast for pictures so you can see the lip formed by slip fitting it:

 

 

4145e4c2.jpg

da4a4625.jpg

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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Rookie,

 

I understand your point about the rib but it can be fixed easy with epoxy build up or tape, when using steel on graphite. I find it a lot easier to simply use old graphite shafts and grind or sand down any ribs, or build up with epoxy or tape. Naturally you don't want to do too much building because of the weight penalty and also using up your epoxy supply. However you can pick up a lot of graphite discards from the club makers and usually end up with more than you can use.

 

The thing to watch out for is adding too much weight to the butt end as that can firm up the flex. However it's not even a real danger because you need about 20 grams or more to make the change enough for people to feel it. Adding an inch changes the swing weight a bit but it should not be significant. It also changes the lie a bit but that too isn't significant in my experience.

 

It does not take long to get used to the different feel or the changes in performance.

 

 

Shambles

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The only problem extending this way is you're going to have a significant rib from the graphite shaft. Remember, steel you can do this with because they're much thinner walls. Graphite can be as thick as 3/16" at the butt (some more, some less). You're better off using a graphite shaft extender so there's no huge gap at the butt. They're cheap too, if I had any lying around I'd send you one for free, but I don't have any more. This is what you want to extend graphite: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GSE Notice it has a lip on it so it'll be even with the butt of the graphite shaft. You'd have problems slip fitting a shaft inside a graphite shaft and have the grip not twist at the butt.

that's why God made epoxy

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You epoxy your grips on? How do you change them? Must be a bear to cut them off.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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