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Putting together a new shaft for my Ping hybrid.  I've got the shaft and the right connector but have a question for you club builders. Is there any difference between the 2 part epoxy you find in the hardware store or in a marine supply house? I can get the same size epoxy tube in Home Depot for $7. that costs $18. at PGA Superstore, or Golfworks for $13. (but the shipping costs as much as the epoxy). I can't imagine there's much difference. 

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:taylormade-small:SIM 2 D Max with Fujikura Air Speeder Shaft 

Cobra  Radspeed 3W/RIptide Shaft
:ping-small:  410  Hybrids 22*, 26*

Cobra Speed Zone 6-GP/Recoil ESX 460 F3 Shafts 

:titelist-small: SM7 54* Wedge

:ping-small: Glide 3.0  60* Wedge

:odyssey-small: O Works putter

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:CaddyTek: - 4 Wheel 

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2 hours ago, tony@CIC said:

Putting together a new shaft for my Ping hybrid.  I've got the shaft and the right connector but have a question for you club builders. Is there any difference between the 2 part epoxy you find in the hardware store or in a marine supply house? I can get the same size epoxy tube in Home Depot for $7. that costs $18. at PGA Superstore, or Golfworks for $13. (but the shipping costs as much as the epoxy). I can't imagine there's much difference. 

I  am not a club builder but Look at the shear strength of the epoxies; that is where they differ.

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :touredgeexotics: XCG7 Beta 15*  w/Fujikura Fuel
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe

Backup Putters:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W, :taylormade-small:TM-180

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3 hours ago, tony@CIC said:

Putting together a new shaft for my Ping hybrid.  I've got the shaft and the right connector but have a question for you club builders. Is there any difference between the 2 part epoxy you find in the hardware store or in a marine supply house? I can get the same size epoxy tube in Home Depot for $7. that costs $18. at PGA Superstore, or Golfworks for $13. (but the shipping costs as much as the epoxy). I can't imagine there's much difference. 

I use the Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy and have had no issues.

gorilla_epoxy_clear_white_bg-450x450-c-default.webp.f03319c16dc1f1c81b1b04df7b8fbff3.webp

:taylormade-small: SLDR 10.5 Oban HB

:taylormade-small: R11s Rip Phenom

:callaway-small: Apex Pro 16

:cleveland-small: 588 RTX Rotex 2.0 54

:cleveland-small: CG10 58

:EVNROLL: EV 5.3 Duo

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47 minutes ago, cnosil said:

I  am not a club builder but Look at the shear strength of the epoxies; that is where they differ.

This. I think the recommended is around 3-4,000 psi. 

Driver:            :cobra-small: Aerojet 9* | Hzrdus Black Gen 4
Fairway:         :ping-small: G410 3W 13* | Alta CB 65
Hybrid:           :titleist-small: TS2 18* | Tensei AV Blue 70 S
Hybrid:           :ping-small: iCrossover 20* | Kai'li White 80
Irons:              :taylormade-small: P790 5-PW | DG S300
Wedges:         :titleist-small: Vokey SM9 | 52, 56, 60 | DG S200
Putter:            :L.A.B.: Link.1 | Accra x LAB

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You want something that will go to 5000 psi or close to it. This will allow up to 125 mph club speed without failure. You also want to make sure the breakdown temperature is around 250 degrees. Anything less could break down in the trunk of your car. At 250 you can still get the components apart if necessary with a heat gun. The 2 part epoxy is best but fully cures in 20 hours.  JB Weld and the Gorilla Glue fit the application if you don't want to get golf specific epoxy for much more.

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:cobra-small: Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap)

:cobra-small: Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60*

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Why not just get some golf epoxy that you know is designed for the job.  Will the other big box store stuff work, probably.  But you're spending good money on a hybrid head and shaft.  Is saving $10-$15 really that big a deal.  

I like the 3M DP line, and I know that it is expensive.  So I'm not saying go that route.  But if you look at my sig, every club in the bag with the exception of the driver adapter and putter were assembled by me (and I think I've pulled that driver adapter once and put it back once).  I've spent a lot of those shafts and clubs/heads.  Why would I want to cheap out on some $7 JB weld, that might give me all kinds of hell if I need to pull one of the shafts (all graphite).

So get the stuff at PGASS or order some Golfworks, or pick up some at Golf Galaxy.  And consider that extra $10-$15 peace of mind.  You have to admit you are concerned whether it will work.  So just buy it and move on.

Edited by dbdors

Woods:  :callaway-logo-1: Rogue ST Max LS 9*,  :Fuji: Ventus Blue 6S / :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+, 15* (set to 17*), Stealth 2, 22*, both w/MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: :PXG: 0317 X Proto 4H, Xcaliber RTI75 S  

Irons: :Takomo: IRON 101 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges:  :cleveland-small: CBX ZipCore 48*, Accra T90i, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: LAB Golf EF3, Accra graphite, 34", Press II 3*

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Well, been using 2 part store bought epoxy for at least 20 years here in Central valley CA where the summers are 100-110 pretty much from June through August and haven't had a problem.   If it gives you peace of mind by all means buy the golf specific epoxy was just giving my experience. 

:taylormade-small: SLDR 10.5 Oban HB

:taylormade-small: R11s Rip Phenom

:callaway-small: Apex Pro 16

:cleveland-small: 588 RTX Rotex 2.0 54

:cleveland-small: CG10 58

:EVNROLL: EV 5.3 Duo

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My only caveat to the discussion is that if you have to remove the shaft adapter for any reason, you may regret not using a more golf-specific epoxy like the GolfWorks Tour Set Beaded epoxy or the 3M DP810NS because some of the non-golf epoxies take too much heat to remove. 

 

The 3M is my favorite, even at the exorbitant cost, because it's so efficient.  Just 2 pumps of the dispenser gun, and I have enough to build a club and have a little left over in the disposable mixing cup off to the side to test my cure rate.  This last part is an important step I didn't always do, but after a couple of failures with a different epoxy I was using, I just got a little OCD about losing a $300-400 driver head and want to know beyond a shadow of a doubt that my ratios of the 2 parts of the epoxy were perfect, that I let the epoxy cure for the right length of time for the environmental conditions, and that there's no chance I screwed up by not stirring the mix enough to evenly distribute the 2 parts of the epoxy before bu.

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/29/2024 at 7:11 PM, Tom the Golf Nut said:

You want something that will go to 5000 psi or close to it. This will allow up to 125 mph club speed without failure. You also want to make sure the breakdown temperature is around 250 degrees. Anything less could break down in the trunk of your car. At 250 you can still get the components apart if necessary with a heat gun. The 2 part epoxy is best but fully cures in 20 hours.  JB Weld and the Gorilla Glue fit the application if you don't want to get golf specific epoxy for much more.

This!

Get the golf specific epoxy if you want to disassemble the parts later.  I had run into someone else's build which would not budge even heat up close to 400 degree F.  That will cause damage to graphite shaft for sure.

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On 6/3/2024 at 8:45 PM, release said:

This!

Get the golf specific epoxy if you want to disassemble the parts later.  I had run into someone else's build which would not budge even heat up close to 400 degree F.  That will cause damage to graphite shaft for sure.

This is 100% the correct answer. If you ever need to change this shaft to another adapter, or God forbid you realize you didn't quite get the adapter on straight and need to adjust it later, you are going to want to be able to get it off.  This is the #2 reason the DP810NS epoxy is the best stuff in the world for golf clubs.  The #1 reason of course being that it has NEVER failed me or anyone else I know when mixed properly and allowed to cure for 24 hours before being used to hit a golf ball.

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