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Reshafting


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So I'm thinking about doing my own reshafting (irons)... I won't go so far as to buy a shaft extractor, though I want to pick up a heat gun, of course. Anybody have any tips?

Driver: TaylorMade R9 9.5* with a Diamana Kai'li 70 S shaft

Fairway: TaylorMade R9 TP 13* with Graphite Design Tour AD YSQ-st X flex

 

UtilityWilson Staff FYbrid 19.5* Aldila RIP Sigma Stiff

 

Irons: Wilson Staff FG Tour V2 KBS Tour X flex 4-pw (soft-stepped)

Wedges: Wilson Staff FG Tour TC 50* (standard grind, bent to 51*) TT DG Spinner, 56* and 60* (tour grinds, bent to 55* and 59*) Dynamic Gold Wedge flex

Putter: Yes! Abbie Tour Forged Pro Series 33" 

Ball: Wilson Staff FG Tour, Maxfli U4

 

Bag: Wilson Staff NeXus 100th Anniversary carry bag

 

Backup Irons: Wilson Staff FG-17 Tour Blades with TT Dynamic Stiff 3-PW

 

Backup Utility: Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron TT Dynamic Gold R300

 

Backup Putter: Pro Gear CG 100 33" (Pro Gear is what turned into Yes!)

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Irons are pretty easy, I'm guessing you are still sticking with the steel shafts so you don't really need to worry about how much heat you use to pull them. Personally on irons I just used a torch because I'm impatient and I wasn't trying to save ferrules.

 

As far as putting them back together it's pretty simple, as with any DIY project prep work is very important. Make sure you rough up the tips of the shafts and clean out any residual goo from inside the iron hosel. Then it's just a matter of applying glue and sticking everything back together. If the ferrules are really tight you can soak them in some hot water before putting them on to make them slide a little easier.

 

I would recommend building to a consistent swing weight though. Usually this will involve dry fitting everything together and taking the weight, then you add tip weights until you get the desired weight that you want. I ended up getting an inexpensive swing weight scale and set of various tip weights off golfworks.com when I built my set this winter. You also want to make sure you are using the grips that will end up on the clubs as that can affect swing weight as well.

 

I'm sure there are some folks on here who have done a lot more club work than I have that can give some additional advice, but if you have any specific questions I'm sure we can help.

 

Good luck with the build!!

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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You don't need a shaft extractor for irons, but I highly recommend a butane torch over a heat gun. You'll also need a knife to cut off the ferrule. Beyond that, there's not much to it, just make sure to keep moving the flame when heating so you don't burn the hosel.

 

For more info, BK made a very nice post for a DIY shaft extractor. I then copied him with what I had:

 

http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/7329-diy-shaft-puller

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You don't need a shaft extractor for irons, but I highly recommend a butane torch over a heat gun. You'll also need a knife to cut off the ferrule. Beyond that, there's not much to it, just make sure to keep moving the flame when heating so you don't burn the hosel.

 

For more info, BK made a very nice post for a DIY shaft extractor. I then copied him with what I had:

 

http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/7329-diy-shaft-puller

why torch over heat gun?

 

Also, what works best for cleaning the hosel and tip? I'm assuming a wire brush and sand paper, but I suppose that I could be wrong.

Driver: TaylorMade R9 9.5* with a Diamana Kai'li 70 S shaft

Fairway: TaylorMade R9 TP 13* with Graphite Design Tour AD YSQ-st X flex

 

UtilityWilson Staff FYbrid 19.5* Aldila RIP Sigma Stiff

 

Irons: Wilson Staff FG Tour V2 KBS Tour X flex 4-pw (soft-stepped)

Wedges: Wilson Staff FG Tour TC 50* (standard grind, bent to 51*) TT DG Spinner, 56* and 60* (tour grinds, bent to 55* and 59*) Dynamic Gold Wedge flex

Putter: Yes! Abbie Tour Forged Pro Series 33" 

Ball: Wilson Staff FG Tour, Maxfli U4

 

Bag: Wilson Staff NeXus 100th Anniversary carry bag

 

Backup Irons: Wilson Staff FG-17 Tour Blades with TT Dynamic Stiff 3-PW

 

Backup Utility: Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron TT Dynamic Gold R300

 

Backup Putter: Pro Gear CG 100 33" (Pro Gear is what turned into Yes!)

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why torch over heat gun?

 

Also, what works best for cleaning the hosel and tip? I'm assuming a wire brush and sand paper, but I suppose that I could be wrong.

 

You want a torch over a heat gun because the guns take much much longer to reach high temperatures than a torch does

Driver:   :callaway-small: Epic 10.5 set to 9.5 w/ Tour AD-DI 44.5

FW:   :cobra-small: F6 baffler set at 16º

Hybrid:  NONE
Irons:   :taylormade-small:  3i 2014 TP CB  4-PW 2011 TP MC w/ TT S400

Wedges:   :nike-small: 52º :nike-small: 56º  :edel-golf-1: 60 º w/ KBS C-Taper XS Soft-stepped

Putter:   :ping-small: Sigma G Tyne 34 inches Gold dot

 

 

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You don't need a shaft extractor for irons, but I highly recommend a butane torch over a heat gun. You'll also need a knife to cut off the ferrule. Beyond that, there's not much to it, just make sure to keep moving the flame when heating so you don't burn the hosel.

 

For more info, BK made a very nice post for a DIY shaft extractor. I then copied him with what I had:

 

http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/7329-diy-shaft-puller

 

Why Torch over gun for you?

 

I find my heat gun is just as fast for irons unless they're really stubborn, and I won't use a torch on graphite shafts. I have one, but rarely bring it out.

I laught at your claims to fight a zombie apocalypse when most of you can't stand up to a Spider

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Why Torch over gun for you?

 

I find my heat gun is just as fast for irons unless they're really stubborn, and I won't use a torch on graphite shafts. I have one, but rarely bring it out.

 

I like the torch for graphite too

 

My heat gun may just be crap though, it seriously took a long time for it to heat an iron where the epoxy melted.

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I could see somebody really wanting good condition 33's, I'll say 365.

WITB

 

Driver: Calloway Diablo Octane Tour, UST VTS Silver

Hybrids: 16* Taylormade RBZ Tour 16*, 21* TEE XCG-3

Irons: Adams CB1 4-PW, KBS C Taper Lite S

Wedges: Nike VR Pro Forged 52*, 58*

Putter: Odyssey White Hot XG3

 

Grips: Lamkin Crossline Midsize

Ball: Whatever I find, prefer Bridgestone

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Ok here's my last question... What do you use for epoxy? I've never looked for it, is it easy to find?

Driver: TaylorMade R9 9.5* with a Diamana Kai'li 70 S shaft

Fairway: TaylorMade R9 TP 13* with Graphite Design Tour AD YSQ-st X flex

 

UtilityWilson Staff FYbrid 19.5* Aldila RIP Sigma Stiff

 

Irons: Wilson Staff FG Tour V2 KBS Tour X flex 4-pw (soft-stepped)

Wedges: Wilson Staff FG Tour TC 50* (standard grind, bent to 51*) TT DG Spinner, 56* and 60* (tour grinds, bent to 55* and 59*) Dynamic Gold Wedge flex

Putter: Yes! Abbie Tour Forged Pro Series 33" 

Ball: Wilson Staff FG Tour, Maxfli U4

 

Bag: Wilson Staff NeXus 100th Anniversary carry bag

 

Backup Irons: Wilson Staff FG-17 Tour Blades with TT Dynamic Stiff 3-PW

 

Backup Utility: Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron TT Dynamic Gold R300

 

Backup Putter: Pro Gear CG 100 33" (Pro Gear is what turned into Yes!)

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Ok here's my last question... What do you use for epoxy? I've never looked for it, is it easy to find?

 

You have to buy two solutions and mix it, for your first go around, I'd recommend the slow setting epoxy

 

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1024_A_cn_E_33

 

It takes a day to dry, but you can still tweak it up to an hour or so after you put in the shaft. Nice when you realize you didn't align the spine properly. Also makes cleaning the excess epoxy easier.

 

BTW, I highly recommend a spine finder. I use the non-tube kind. You should be able to find them pretty easily on ebay.

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Paul - just hit up any Golfsmith or Golf Galaxy in town and they all carry the epoxy.

 

The only other recommendation I have is to leave the clubs inside to dry once you put the glue on. With the weather we've been having leaving them in the garage will take forever for the glue to set.

 

For cleaning the tip of the shaft just use sand paper. For the inside of the hosel a drill bit will work, but I use a wire brush. I couldn't finally anything local that was the proper fit, so I ended up buying one from home depot and then grinding it down with a bench grinder to the proper size for iron hosels. Otherwise Golf Works sells actual iron hosel brushes

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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Paul - just hit up any Golfsmith or Golf Galaxy in town and they all carry the epoxy.

 

The only other recommendation I have is to leave the clubs inside to dry once you put the glue on. With the weather we've been having leaving them in the garage will take forever for the glue to set.

 

For cleaning the tip of the shaft just use sand paper. For the inside of the hosel a drill bit will work, but I use a wire brush. I couldn't finally anything local that was the proper fit, so I ended up buying one from home depot and then grinding it down with a bench grinder to the proper size for iron hosels. Otherwise Golf Works sells actual iron hosel brushes

 

Good point. I use 80 grit for steel and 120 grit for graphite.

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