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Where did you learn club building?


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I started with asking questions and reading on forums, watching YouTube videos, etc. It's like most other things, you just can't be afraid to dive it. There isn't anything in club building that's terribly complicated; the thing that separates good builders from average is precision. The big jump in my building ability, such as it is, was caused by working with some really top shelf builders who taught me some of the little tricks.

Follow me on Twitter: @MattSaternus

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I learned pretty much on here, just asked lots of questions and practiced until i felt i was ready to work on my gamers

Driver:   :callaway-small: Epic 10.5 set to 9.5 w/ Tour AD-DI 44.5

FW:   :cobra-small: F6 baffler set at 16º

Hybrid:  NONE
Irons:   :taylormade-small:  3i 2014 TP CB  4-PW 2011 TP MC w/ TT S400

Wedges:   :nike-small: 52º :nike-small: 56º  :edel-golf-1: 60 º w/ KBS C-Taper XS Soft-stepped

Putter:   :ping-small: Sigma G Tyne 34 inches Gold dot

 

 

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MGS. Has played a huge part in my club building the forums are very helpfull for any questions you might have you can alway PM the guys that have the most experience Rookie Etc.

MY BAG-

Driver- Taylormade SLDR 12* (Speeder 7.2vc tour spec S)

3 Wood- Taylormade R11(bimatrix prototype S)

3 Hybrid- Ping I20(stock S)

Irons-Taylormade Tour Perferred MC ( C Taper S)

Wedges- 50, 54, and 58 SCOR4161( KBS)

Putter-Taylormade Ghost Corza.

 

All Left Handed!

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Yup, what the other guys said. Started off with doing small things, mostly on backup clubs. Then gradually made my way into building my set of gamers.

 

Youtube has tons of great videos and ask lots of questions of the forums. Like Matt said there isn't anything that's terribly complicated with club building, just take your time and decide how precise you want to be that will make you happy.

 

For me it also helped to get fit for my clubs first because then I had a set of specs to build off of.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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Yup, what the other guys said. Started off with doing small things, mostly on backup clubs. Then gradually made my way into building my set of gamers.

 

Youtube has tons of great videos and ask lots of questions of the forums. Like Matt said there isn't anything that's terribly complicated with club building, just take your time and decide how precise you want to be that will make you happy.

 

For me it also helped to get fit for my clubs first because then I had a set of specs to build off of.

 

Following hckymeyer's program. Learned a lot here and watched a ton of YouTube videos. Started by reshafting some old backup clubs, scoured eBay for shaft and component deals and started putting stuff together to see what happens. Built a set of inexpensive backup irons and hybrids, a backup driver and reshafted my hybrid gamers. Just finished another driver (FT-9 head with a new shaft) and a backup 3-wood last night.

 

As Matt says, the actual "doing it" is pretty easy. As with any skilled trade, experience and knowledge is the difference between making something that's serviceable and something that's really custom-made and high performing. Right now I'm striving for serviceable. biggrin.gif

 

What's in the bag:
 
Driver:  :titelist-small:TSR3; :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR Carbon
FW Wood: :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR 3-wood; :titleist-small: TSR 2+
Hybrids:  PXG Gen4 18-degree
Utility Irons: :srixon-small: ZX MkII 20* 
Irons:;  :Sub70:699/699 Pro V2 Combo; :wilson_staff_small: D9 Forged;  :macgregor-small:MT86 (coming soon!); :macgregor-small: VIP 1025 V-Foil MB/CB; 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX6 Zipcore
Putter: :cleveland-small: HB Soft Milled 10.5;  :scotty-small: Newport Special Select;  :edel-golf-1:  Willamette,  :bettinardi-small: BB8; :wilson-small: 8802; MATI Monto

Ball: :bridgestone-small: Tour B RXS; :srixon-small: Z-STAR Diamond; :wilson_staff_small: Triad

Stat Tracker/GPS Watch: :ShotScope:


 
Follow @golfspybarbajo

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I personally like Matt read forums, researched concepts but most of my knowledge up to this point on building / equipment comes from my friend that's a certified master builder / fitter. I just asked questions and stepped back watched and learned. I just like picking his brain for information. It is really the little things that separates the really good builders from the average ones. I couldn't agree more with Matt on that one.

 

I have seen so many times that builders in big box stores and even little ones will cut a lot of corners or just not have the knowledge. One of my favorite things to do is keep my mouth shut when I go into a golf store and act like I don't know anything to be able to gauge where the persons insight on a subject sits. By me acting stupid I learn a lot more about what people really know then what they can bullshit about if I don't feed them information.

 

I personally don't do any real building anymore, I just re-grip my own clubs that's about it. If I need a fitting of shafts installed built for me I just pay my good friend that knows more then me to do the work. It is a win, win situation for us, he gets a little bonus money and I get really great work.

Callaway Epic Max 12.0 (-1/N) @ 44.50" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7 Stiff

Callaway Epic Speed 18.0* @ 42.75" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-8 Stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro 23.0* @ 40.00" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 95 HYB Stiff

Sub-70 639 Combo (5-P) w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Stiff, Standard Length, Weak Lofts (27-47, 4* gaps)

Callaway MD5 Raw 51-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 55-13 X-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 59-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 63-09 C-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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I went to Golfworks and took their five day program out of interest.

 

I was toying with the idea of doing that too. Any insight into the value vs the expense?

Driver: Bridgestone J40 - 445

Woods: TEE - 4

Hybrids - Adams Super 19*/22*

Irons: Adams CB2

Wedges: Mizuno MP-T11 54*/58*

Putter: Scotty Cameron Sonoma

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I went to Golfworks and took their five day program out of interest.

 

I've been kicking this idea around for a while given that they're located a half hour away. How was the program?

In Nick's Ogio Edge Stand Bag
Driver: Taylormade Rocketballz 9.5* Aldila Rip'd NV Stiff
Fairway: Tour Edge CB4 15* Rip Gamma Stiff
Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro A12 18* KBS Tour X
Irons: Mizuno MP-53 3-PW DG X100
Wedges: Mizuno MP R-12 52* & 56* DG Spinner
Putter: Taylormade Ghost Spider Si 38"

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I got into building clubs as a way to save money when I ordered my first real set. This was from components from Hireko.

 

I don't think I actually saved anything because I had to buy the tools, but now that I have everything I need, I'm happy to keep working things.

 

Then, a while back, BK posted a thread of a DIY shaft puller which I copied and can now pull graphite shafts. I haven't ruined one yet!

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How much would it cost to get the basic tools for regripping and reshafting?

 

Kind of depends on how in-depth you want to go. For regripping you don't really need much for tools. A box cutter with a hook blade for removing the old grips and that's about it. Personally i blow my grips on with an air compressor. If you already have an air compressor then you are set. If you want to use solvent and grip tape then you just need the supplies, not really any tools.

 

For reshafting it kind of depends on if you are talking steel or graphite shafts. Also if you will be pulling the shafts or just installing the new ones. If you are pulling steel then you just need a blow torch. I would also recommend some heavier leather gloves to grab the club head as it can get pretty warm. If you are pulling graphite then I would recommend a shaft puller and a heat gun.

 

For the reshafting it also depends how far you want to take it. If you just want to stick in a shaft and go then you don't need any tools, just the epoxy. If you want to get into building to a specific swing weight and length then I would recommend some soft of swing weight scale, various tip weights and a club ruler.

 

A lot of these tools can be done in a DIY fashion to save money vs buying the actual tool. Also a lot of tools you find in a typical 'handiman' garage can be used without having to buy more stuff.

 

Sorry this isn't a real exact answer with $$$ amounts, but it really depends on what you already have that you can repurpose, if you want to DIY the tools, or if you are buying stuff outright.

 

Personally I probably spent around $100 between a swing weight scale, tip weights, epoxy, metal ruler, hosel cleaning brushes and ferrules. Well, I should say that is about what it cost, most of it I put on my Christmas list.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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How much would it cost to get the basic tools for regripping and reshafting?

 

I started out pretty small. I bought a vice from lowes for 20 bucks and a blow torch and gloves for about 30. Then it was just supplies which aren't as expensive as you'd think. After I built my first set I got my swing weight scale and a nicer ruler for measuring finished clubs. I mostly kept an eye out for any sales Golfsmith or Golfworks were having to save some money.

Driver:   :callaway-small: Epic 10.5 set to 9.5 w/ Tour AD-DI 44.5

FW:   :cobra-small: F6 baffler set at 16º

Hybrid:  NONE
Irons:   :taylormade-small:  3i 2014 TP CB  4-PW 2011 TP MC w/ TT S400

Wedges:   :nike-small: 52º :nike-small: 56º  :edel-golf-1: 60 º w/ KBS C-Taper XS Soft-stepped

Putter:   :ping-small: Sigma G Tyne 34 inches Gold dot

 

 

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I'm mechanically inclined (work as a power plant mechanic). I said "this doesn't look so hard". Then sought out advice from talented and veteran club guys like Joe Kwok, Howard Jones, Tom Wishon, Ralph Maltby, etc and read as much as possible about techniques, etc. Bought the tools and started doing my own work. My first club I ever worked on? Refinishing my old Scotty Studio Design 1. Nerve racking, but why start with practice clubs? If you don't give yourself room for error, you'll be more meticulous and take your time and be patient. That's always been my philosophy anyway. If you screw up, they make more of whatever it is, just buy another one. That's the way I've always operated.

 

That said, I'm going to give you some advice to save you time and money. DON'T START BUILDING CLUBS. You might think you're a club ***** now, but just wait till you see how easy it is to make things work that didn't before. Talk about buying stuff you don't need. I've bought 6 drivers this season, 4 wedges and 3 putters. None have unseated my gamers.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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That said, I'm going to give you some advice to save you time and money. DON'T START BUILDING CLUBS. You might think you're a club ***** now, but just wait till you see how easy it is to make things work that didn't before. Talk about buying stuff you don't need. I've bought 6 drivers this season, 4 wedges and 3 putters. None have unseated my gamers.

 

+1 to that. I went 15 years playing the same irons, then played the next set for three more. After getting into club building I now have 3 different sets in the past 6 months and I find myself constantly on the lookout for more.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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I finally got myself out of being a club hoe last year. I finally started to realize that I have equipment that perfectly fits me as a player and maximizes my ability. Bad scores are not the fault of my equipment they are the fault of myself operating them.

 

I'll try driver shafts here and their and try different clubs for fun but I never really have the desire to buy anything anymore. If it does make it into my bag it means the product is earth shattering or something in terms of performance / feel :)

Callaway Epic Max 12.0 (-1/N) @ 44.50" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7 Stiff

Callaway Epic Speed 18.0* @ 42.75" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-8 Stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro 23.0* @ 40.00" w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 95 HYB Stiff

Sub-70 639 Combo (5-P) w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Stiff, Standard Length, Weak Lofts (27-47, 4* gaps)

Callaway MD5 Raw 51-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 55-13 X-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 59-11 S-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Callaway MD5 Raw 63-09 C-Grind w/ Nippon Modus 125 Wedge

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

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I started off with a cutoff saw ($60), vice ($20), rubber clamp ($5) to hold shafts, and the various materials needed (epoxy, grip solvent, grip tape, ferrules, sand paper, hook blades for utility knife)

 

I bought a SW scale ($80) and spine finder ($30) off ebay, an air compressor ($60), and repurposed a workbench and another vice that were lying around to create a shaft puller. I tried using a heat gun for removing shafts, but switched to a torch since it's much much faster.

 

I'm guessing on the above prices since it's been a while, but roughly $250-$300 for tools sounds about right. The workbench I have wouldn't have been cheap if I had to buy it though.

 

That said, the only reason I ever need to use a golf shop is for bending clubs since those machines are crazy expensive.

 

Also, +1 to what Rookie said, once you realize how easy it is to tinker with clubs, it's stupidly addicting.

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I would eagerly recommend Golfworks, great value and experience. I went to the one in Canada not the main one though. Mitchell has a very good one as well as Golfsmith, really can't go wrong with any of them.

 

If anyone has an Yahoo email account under their discussions group there are some good clubmaking discussion groups and there is one that is called Spinetalkers but you have to be invited by a member into it.

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That said, I'm going to give you some advice to save you time and money. DON'T START BUILDING CLUBS. You might think you're a club ***** now, but just wait till you see how easy it is to make things work that didn't before. Talk about buying stuff you don't need. I've bought 6 drivers this season, 4 wedges and 3 putters. None have unseated my gamers.

 

Oh my goodness yes. Every time my wife walks into my office, she rolls her eyes.

 

I already had a compressor and picked up an airgun attachment at Northern Tool & Hardware for about 8 bucks, along with a vice for about $20 and started regripping.

 

Bought a spine aligning tool on ebay for another $20, and mickey-moused a shaft-pulling tool out of an old Ikea assembly wrench I had lying around. Worked with the 3 graphite shafts I've pulled -- as Rookie says, slow down and be meticulous...

 

The reshafted Mashie hybrids are in the bag. Gotta finish up Driver #4 and 3-wood #2 today. If the snow ever leaves, we'll see if they're any good....

 

What's in the bag:
 
Driver:  :titelist-small:TSR3; :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR Carbon
FW Wood: :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR 3-wood; :titleist-small: TSR 2+
Hybrids:  PXG Gen4 18-degree
Utility Irons: :srixon-small: ZX MkII 20* 
Irons:;  :Sub70:699/699 Pro V2 Combo; :wilson_staff_small: D9 Forged;  :macgregor-small:MT86 (coming soon!); :macgregor-small: VIP 1025 V-Foil MB/CB; 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX6 Zipcore
Putter: :cleveland-small: HB Soft Milled 10.5;  :scotty-small: Newport Special Select;  :edel-golf-1:  Willamette,  :bettinardi-small: BB8; :wilson-small: 8802; MATI Monto

Ball: :bridgestone-small: Tour B RXS; :srixon-small: Z-STAR Diamond; :wilson_staff_small: Triad

Stat Tracker/GPS Watch: :ShotScope:


 
Follow @golfspybarbajo

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Well I did my first shaft pull and reshaft ever this weekend. Took the MP-62s apart to shift them all up by one shaft and it was a great experience. It was very easy, though definitely a learning experience. Next time I really think I'll want shafting beads or shims, because I'd like the heads to be a hair (literally) more snug before the epoxy dries. It may affect the lie angle. Either way, I saved a lot of money, and I'm assured that the quality of my work is up to my standards because I know where my level of attention to detail is (somewhere around OCD). Plus, if nothing else, I can just pull the heads and try again if I find anything wrong.

 

I have a more ambitious plan for my W/S FG Tour V2s, though I wouldn't even dream of enacting the plan until the next version come out so I can see if the new ones have a different sole. I'd like to grind off (or bevel, ideally) a small bit of the trailing edge to give them a more aggressive sole. We'll see. For now, I'll stick with they way things are now.

Driver: TaylorMade R9 9.5* with a Diamana Kai'li 70 S shaft

Fairway: TaylorMade R9 TP 13* with Graphite Design Tour AD YSQ-st X flex

 

UtilityWilson Staff FYbrid 19.5* Aldila RIP Sigma Stiff

 

Irons: Wilson Staff FG Tour V2 KBS Tour X flex 4-pw (soft-stepped)

Wedges: Wilson Staff FG Tour TC 50* (standard grind, bent to 51*) TT DG Spinner, 56* and 60* (tour grinds, bent to 55* and 59*) Dynamic Gold Wedge flex

Putter: Yes! Abbie Tour Forged Pro Series 33" 

Ball: Wilson Staff FG Tour, Maxfli U4

 

Bag: Wilson Staff NeXus 100th Anniversary carry bag

 

Backup Irons: Wilson Staff FG-17 Tour Blades with TT Dynamic Stiff 3-PW

 

Backup Utility: Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron TT Dynamic Gold R300

 

Backup Putter: Pro Gear CG 100 33" (Pro Gear is what turned into Yes!)

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Keep in mind Paul, that as you do the grind, you'll be taking the chrome off. Either be prepaired to have them refinished, strip the chrome entirely or have the grinded spots blotchy.

 

I got into club building by helping a local fitter that does high end clients with shafts he wasn't familair with. Then ended up helping with some other tasks.

 

I loathe doing loft/lie changes as simple as they are so I'll pay someone else to do them. I take care of everything else now though. The investment in tools isn't huge and all it takes it changing your own grips for a couple of years instead of someone else to pay them off.

I laught at your claims to fight a zombie apocalypse when most of you can't stand up to a Spider

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Keep in mind Paul, that as you do the grind, you'll be taking the chrome off. Either be prepaired to have them refinished, strip the chrome entirely or have the grinded spots blotchy.

I would be inclined to strip them and leave them, though I've read that stripped heads feel slightly less soft. If that's the case, then I'll cross that bridge when I get to it... I'd probably bevel the edge, and see how it looks, then I'd make the decision on stripping.

Driver: TaylorMade R9 9.5* with a Diamana Kai'li 70 S shaft

Fairway: TaylorMade R9 TP 13* with Graphite Design Tour AD YSQ-st X flex

 

UtilityWilson Staff FYbrid 19.5* Aldila RIP Sigma Stiff

 

Irons: Wilson Staff FG Tour V2 KBS Tour X flex 4-pw (soft-stepped)

Wedges: Wilson Staff FG Tour TC 50* (standard grind, bent to 51*) TT DG Spinner, 56* and 60* (tour grinds, bent to 55* and 59*) Dynamic Gold Wedge flex

Putter: Yes! Abbie Tour Forged Pro Series 33" 

Ball: Wilson Staff FG Tour, Maxfli U4

 

Bag: Wilson Staff NeXus 100th Anniversary carry bag

 

Backup Irons: Wilson Staff FG-17 Tour Blades with TT Dynamic Stiff 3-PW

 

Backup Utility: Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron TT Dynamic Gold R300

 

Backup Putter: Pro Gear CG 100 33" (Pro Gear is what turned into Yes!)

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I would be inclined to strip them and leave them, though I've read that stripped heads feel slightly less soft. If that's the case, then I'll cross that bridge when I get to it... I'd probably bevel the edge, and see how it looks, then I'd make the decision on stripping.

 

Seems to be a debateable opinion about the feel change. Lots of people says it feels harder, then hits a raw club and says that's softer.

 

If you do end of striping them and want them refinished, have an eye ball for custom car shops. Lots of them are more then happy to chrome anything up you'd like for a fairly reasonable fee.

I laught at your claims to fight a zombie apocalypse when most of you can't stand up to a Spider

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Just trimmed and gripped my last two clubs of the off-season (not sure when there will be an "on-season" in Minnesota) - a component 3-wood and a new shaft in a use Callaway FT-9 driver. The final inventory after a winter of club making (gamers listed first):

 

4 drivers (Titleist 910D2, 2 spare shafts with adapters, Mizuno MP-600 with a new grip, Weszty "Murder Weapon," Callaway FT-9 with Penley G2-85 shaft)

 

2 3-woods(Ping i20, Weszty FSA 15* with Penley G@-85 shaft)

 

4 Hybrids (Cleveland Mashie 19.5* & 23* reshafts with Talamonti H-100's, Weszty FSA 19* and 23* with Penley 85 Gram hybrid shafts, plus two extra Weszty heads in case I get tired of the Mashies)

 

3 sets of irons (Mizuno MP-59's, Hogan Apex Plus, Weszty Zt-C cavity backs with FST 125 shafts)

 

several wedges and 5 putters.

 

yes, I have become a HO!

 

What's in the bag:
 
Driver:  :titelist-small:TSR3; :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR Carbon
FW Wood: :wilson_staff_small: DynaPWR 3-wood; :titleist-small: TSR 2+
Hybrids:  PXG Gen4 18-degree
Utility Irons: :srixon-small: ZX MkII 20* 
Irons:;  :Sub70:699/699 Pro V2 Combo; :wilson_staff_small: D9 Forged;  :macgregor-small:MT86 (coming soon!); :macgregor-small: VIP 1025 V-Foil MB/CB; 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX6 Zipcore
Putter: :cleveland-small: HB Soft Milled 10.5;  :scotty-small: Newport Special Select;  :edel-golf-1:  Willamette,  :bettinardi-small: BB8; :wilson-small: 8802; MATI Monto

Ball: :bridgestone-small: Tour B RXS; :srixon-small: Z-STAR Diamond; :wilson_staff_small: Triad

Stat Tracker/GPS Watch: :ShotScope:


 
Follow @golfspybarbajo

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I attended the Golfworks 5 day fitting and repair class

Completed the masters class at Golfworks

Completed the Rifle class at swing science.

among other certifications.

 

To learn about clubmaking I would recommend that group for a great atmosphere and great people.

There are however other companies.

Mitchell and Golfsmith.

Mitchell is still active and has a few classes with great equipment.

Golfworks may still have classes but the company is gearing more towards OEM stuff than component stuff.

 

Although not free as in surfing youtube and the forum the courses are packed with info, focus to the tasks and information is readily available without hunt and peck but it costs $$$$. IMO worth every penny

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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I went to the Golfworks school through the PGA and then worked on a tour van for a year.

Ping G410 Plus Oban Kiyoshi Tour Limited
Ping G410 LST 3 Wood Oban Tour Prototype V430
Titleist U500 3 & 4 Oban Kiyoshi Purple Tour Reserve
Titleist 620 MB 5-9 Oban CT 125
Titleist Vokey 47* Oban CT 125, 51*, 55*, and 59* Shimada Tour Wedge Black
Bettinardi Studio Stock SS28

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15 years ago or so I got tired of not being able to find decent left handed clubs without spending crazy amounts of money. S I just decided to build a decent set myself, didn't know much about it, but said what the heck it's gotta be better than Kmart for the price, so went to golfsmith on the Internet, bought some midsize XPC-3, heads, 3-PW 8 bucks a pc. at the time, put them on some pro force 75 gold stiff, I think those were about 13 bucks back then, not sure, but anyway, put some golf pride tour velvet softies on and just went with it. Putting them together was easy, but again, I didn't have them weighted or anything like that, just put the together and went and played, it's actually quite a fun thing to do, I still have them and used them up until a couple of years ago when I bought the Mizunos. My game has progressed beyond my ability to build my own, I don't have the means to properly "fit" them, but for a "usable" set it is quite a fun and rewarding process, and it's fun to brag to everyone that you play with that you built your own set, and only spent about a couple hundred bucks from start to finish. I say build them and have fun doing it.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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Anyone interested in really getting into this I'd suggest joining these people. http://www.clubmakersguild.com/ Many of them are former PCS (Professional Clubmakers Society) which were the best in the business. I know about them because I was on the marketing committee for them (PCS). They are very helpful to anyone.

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