Pmullin7

It is. On steel, you can use a blow torch (lightly), then a scrapping tool, lastly acetone. I can strip and clean a shaft very easily this way. For graphite, patience is the only technique.

If you're using the solvent method (either because you don't have a compressor, or perhaps your grips won't work with that method because they have an internal core), I'd get a painters tray and a funnel. Pour the solvent over the tape. Pour it into the grip. Forget spraying. Too much solvent is impossible, too little will cause the grip to seize part way on, requiring you to cut it off. Or you might force the grip on but in the process stretch it into an undersized grip. The funnel allows you to pour solvent from the tray back into the bottle easily. If you watch a video of a tour van installing grips you'll see the equipment they use essentially soaks the tape and the grip end. It can't be overstressed how important it is not to worry about how much solvent you use if you recycling it. Cover the end of the grip with your hand as you push the grip on. That will block the solvent from spraying all over you, and encourage a push rather than a pulling technique. For build up, 2 inch masking tape works nicely. Bonus, it's perfect for blown on grips too.

For me, the 6 iron is the cutoff point. I will play an iron or a hybrid depending on wind and course conditions, but longer than that I no longer think about it. Age and injury leave me remembering my beloved 2 iron, but it's on display now. My bag is 10.5 driver, 13.5 mini, 5 wood, 9 wood, 5 hybrid. I can deloft the 9 wood if I need a little extra, and it's amazing out of the rough. Height is not a problem at my slow swing speed (90mph driver).

If you haven't already, I wish suggest comparing the swing weights of your irons with this club. If they are more than three points different, you could experiment with some old-fashioned lead tape on it to match swing weights, and then see what that does to your timing. Might be an interesting experiment before you spend major money on a new shaft, and its certainly very inexpensive and easily reversible.