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About dan_t

  • Birthday 01/13/1973

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    Halifax, NS, Canada
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  1. and yes shaving the face changes the COR of the clubface which in turn, makes it NON USGA CONFORMING Remember those interga soo-long driver heads? same idea
  2. I think for a guy who can boom it, sure it will work For the average joe who swings a driver say 95 I don't think the difference will be that noticeable The face will crack a lot faster as well
  3. BLUE.... I have the maltby exact measure tool what I ended up on doing is buying a protractor from the dollar store and setting the angle of the sole plate to 60* and measuring from there. I got them all perfectly exact. I know there is differences due to bounce profiles in the soles from the 4 to the P head. Anyways dude, got them 110% bang on now so I can pursue getting them SST pured now.... I want this experiment to be the most accurate ans sickest set to date. I run a KBS 130 g .370 shaft in my main MMB blades cut to 5.5 and I have them tipped accordingly 3 to the 60*
  4. Rookie Blue I am going to go with the gut and do wedge + on the 54* and regular wedge on the 60* I think I will be FINE Looking forward to trying the lower launch and added RPM Ordered the stuff today and I am like you. I use KBS shafts in my gamers' but this set I am building now well, again I am just like you I want it to be built to exact and prefect tolerances. I measure and cut and weigh multiple times. It is a sickness. You just never know until you build it right? Plus it's fun. I had a UST .350 stiff shaft in a driver here... wow didn't fit it (head) at all
  5. Hi All Does anyone know where one can find Adams pro Gold boxer headweights? I re shafted my 20* and planning on re shafting my 18* with KBS steel hybrid shafts. I know the 20* has to drop to about a 2-3 G from the 7 it has in it stock. I need a 2 gram for the 20* for sure and haven't measured the other (18*) yet... Can someone reply to topic or PM me to let me know??? I tried to set something up with a guy on ebay (adams tour van guy) but we somehow lost communication. Thanks in Advance Dan
  6. Wedge 124 G shaft is for sand and lob wedges and wedge + (131 g) is for gap and pitching wedges OK so the wedge shaft... is the one for the 54* and up club...... so i'd play two of the same flex in both my clubs correct? Now I can run these shafts in a .370 tip head.... I just need to shim it correct???? Thanks again
  7. Hi Sorry for not being clear I own a few sets of wedges I had a set of x tours (.355) with the s300's they were way too firm for me I had some cleveland cg12's last year with the cleveland traction true temper wedge shaft I really liked them because they felt softer then the s300 in the older x-tours. I am using component clubs now because I really have good luck and like them Maybe it was in my head the flex issue, Your information is excellent BTW THANK YOU this is the exact info I needed to go by. Now I went with a HL in my irons because I want to try a different kin
  8. No the wedge heads are .370 tip I was thinking what shaft would perform similar to the pitch wedge? And the 60 I would play that a little softer for feel and spin The shafts I am running are discontinued. I was told though that the shorter clubs shafts were standard PX. Is this correct? What shaft would play similar to what I am setting up? Thanks in advance
  9. Got cut off. Btw I meant x tour wedges..... iPhone...... Anyway like I meant to say earlier, I will either run a .370 or run a .355 tip shaft with shim for my wedges as they are parallel tip heads I was thinking on going 47 pitch 53 sand and 58 lob this time or may just stick with a 54/60. I always use the 60 out of the sand because of the nice big flange. Thanks again guys
  10. Hey guys. One more question..... If I Running project x high launch in. 5.0 flex taper tip, what would be a good shaft to compliment the shafts and flex? I am settled on the wedge heads already and I normally run with a 54 ( full shot 100 yard club) however I use a 60* for more feel shots (1/2 @ 3/4 swings) I know with rifle spinners they say to move down 1/2 flex point or so I have been told. So my thinking is to go something similar to my iron shafts in the 54* and say more a "wedge shaft" in the 60* am I correct in my thoughts here???? I had two clevelands with wedge flex shaft
  11. I measured the center of the sole and clubface and went from there.... I tried a protractor and the exact measure tool but wanted to get them 110% on bang lengths Just want this set as tight and accurate as I can be I think these will be a delight to hit
  12. I measured the center of the sole and clubface and went from there.... I tried a protractor and the exact measure tool but wanted to get them 110% on bang lengths Just want this set as tight and accurate as I can be I think these will be a delight to hit
  13. I figured the board would be best which I already have but my issue there was getting the lie close to what the soles are...... Thank you
  14. HI All As the topic says I am doing a dry build on a set of forged cavity backs (new) and PX taper tip shafts (new) and I am running with a 38 1/2' 4 iron. I was contemplating rough cutting the shafts then dry installing each head onto it's shaft then laying the clubs toe down on a table butted up against the hosel (to get all clubs the exact same length) then using a 1/2 gauge and going 1/2 space shaft to shaft on the butt end. To get them accurate for 1/2" difference sand the butts on a 90* flat sander then re measure butt of club to club hosel(s) evenly against the edg
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