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Testers Wanted! Titleist SM10 and Stix Golf Clubs ×

UlfBane

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  1. From Ralph Maltby's Golf Club Design, Fitting, Alteration and Repair, 4th edition page 864 (Loft Men's - Late 1980's) RAM Tour Grind Axial Iron Lofts: #1: 15 #2: 18 #3: 21.25 #4: 24.5 #5: 27.5 #6: 31 #7: 35.5 #8: 40 #9: 44 PW: 48 SW: 55
  2. The main difference between cast and forged clubs is the presence of AIR BUBBLES in the casting due to liquifying the steel in order to pour it into molds. Modern forgings that are first cast, MUST contain these air bubbles. The unanswered question is: does the steel mixture that is smelted into bars which are then forged in the traditional process get hot enough to form air bubbles? If so, the argument is moot. If NOT, then the traditional forged blades have a smoother internal structure, as purists will argue. I play BOTH in my mix and match set. Wilson RM MIDSIZE traditional forged cavity backs as well as FG62 blades (8620 cast then forged) Lofts are identical (with the exception of the RM 1 & 2 irons). I throw into the mix modern Wilson Staff Model Utility irons with c300 maraging steel faces and identical lofts to the FG62s (Maraging 300 alloy is a very high strength iron base, nickel , molybdenum, cobalt alloy). Wedges are also a mixture of RM, FW6 (8620 cast then forged) and vintage 60-64 Staff pitching wedges (at 51 degrees they make great Gap Wedges). I have been playing golf since 1982 and (with the exception of the Staff Model Utility irons) I honestly cannot tell a difference when switching between THESE clubs. Now if you want to discuss TaylorMade cast STAINLESS (like the original tour preferred with hollow long irons) or the Entirely hollow (Foam filled) ICW (inner cavity weighting) blades I played in the 80's and 90's you can definitely tell that THEY are not forged carbon steel of ANY grade (but that's for another thread).
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