RookieBlue7

I use a green marker and connect 3 dots to make a clover and then draw a short stem. The rest of the guys in my group use red, black, and blue markers and had been before I started playing regularly. Green was the only color left, so I went with it and developed using a clover mark.

As far as the corrosive properties of Coke are concerned, take a steak and submerge it in Coke overnight (it's a science experiment for the kids even, as we did it at school). It'll be gone or nearly gone the next morning. It'll be a good way to try to get the kids to drink less Coke and more nutritious stuff as well. As for what it does to your stomach, your stomach is more acidic than the Coke is, so it does not eat the lining of your stomach. The natural acids in there protect against that, which is also how you're able to digest food.

Coke nor any other household chemical will not strip the chrome. You could try to etch the chrome with muratic acid (which is pretty much the same thing as hydrochloric acid) in your home, but I wouldn't recommend it. It is very corrosive and will eat your skin if it comes into contact with it. Another bad thing about it is that you have to have a hazmat license to dispose of it and you have to find a place that will take it. Ever heard of Erin Brockovich? The chemical byproduct when using muratic acid to etch chrome is what she became famous for (hexavalent chromium). It's much easier to take it to a chrome plater and have them strip it. If they can apply chrome and rechrome parts, they can strip it. They have to be able to. They'll charge you about $10 a head. But, also be advised that you will lose weight, thus altering the club's swingweight. Stainless and raw carbon are the only materials that can readily be torched. The carbon will slightly harden as well, so your clubs will go from feeling buttery to a little clicky upon torching them. Just a little information for those that are feel players and like their clubs to feel a certain way. You will alter the feel of carbon clubs by torching them.

A few things I noticed and didn't agree with. First, the clubs have to be raw to start with, they won't end up raw. You can't flame finish a plated or coated club. Well, you could flame them but you're not going to change the color any. Second, I don't like Coking the clubs. It's messy for one, and takes too long for point #2. Another thing is if you miss a spot and don't get all of the coke off, you're going to end up with brown or black spots where the syrup was at. I prefer to use either CLR, Bar Keeper's friend or naval jelly. CLR is my first choice because it's easy, you mix the concentrate with water according to the directions. Then, you simply submerge the head for 5-10 minutes and rinse it off and towel it dry. No messy clean up. I also recommend wearing latex gloves when handling the head afterward to keep your hands clean, and to keep the oil and pollutants from your skin from transferring to the club, as those will cause browning and uneven finishes. Next, it never mentions to remove the paintfill, but that's a necessary step because the paing will melt and run and cause smoky black spots where it's at. It has to be gone. I also prefer to use a spray on silicone because you can get to places that the cloth won't get to. I prefer CRC's spray silicone, or their new product I like is SP-350 Rust Preventer. It's silicone based, but also prevents rust longer. Both work great. Another tip for those that don't already have a torch, you don't have to buy one unless you're wanting to smoke the club to black. You can get the wheat colors and purples and blues using your oven set on broil, plus you get to watch it through the window. As always, make sure not to grab the hot club. Using the oven also allows for a more even heating and more even finishes. Unless you're wanting a fade finish, that's really the simplest way IMO (and I torch a lot of stuff). I also like to advise to stop slightly short of the desired color because it will continue changing after the heat is removed because of heat being held in the metal. Just a few other tips from over the years. The original method will work fine, but I do my projects a little different the OP. Good topic and good beginner DIY though. One last thing I forgot. Instead of Testors, I prefer Tamiya X-Acrylic paints. They seem to hold up much better for me and are available in lots more colors.

16 clubs? No, no, no... I'd rather see less clubs, especially for amateurs. I'm of the firm belief for beginners and lots of higher handicap players, it'd be more beneficial for them to carry less clubs, and simplify the game. They don't need 4 or 5 wedges to choose from because they likely already struggle with the ones they carry. The same can be said for the rest of the bag. On the flip side, for manufacturers, it'd be of greater benefit to them for the club rule to be expanded. It would provide them more opportunities to sell clubs, which would be good for them. It really depends on what side of the coin you're on I suppose. If you're selling equipment, you want it to expand because the bottom line increases. If you want to see golfers improve or not get frustrated with the game, then you want it to remain where it is or even grow smaller.