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Everything posted by VanTrago

  1. 1. Bob Wilks -- Batavia, Ohio 2. I've owned and used the following golf GPSs & laser rangefinders, in chronological order: Original Sky Caddie, GPS Callaway Golf "uPro" GPS Garmin "Approach G3" GPS Suaoki "PF3" Rangefinder CaddyTek "CaddyView V-2 + Slope" Rangefinder Lofthouse "ProScope 400X" Rangefinder Bushnell "Neo Ghost" GPS Bushnell "Phantom" GPS 3. I'm currently using the Bushnell "Phantom."
  2. I want reliable distance out to 370 yards. That is the sum of my driver plus my pitching wedge (250+120 yards). Before buying my present GPS, I decided to check out laser rangefinders under $150. I bought and tried three , one after the other: CaddyView v2 Suaoki PF3 Lofthouse ProScope 400x The best of those was the ProScope 400X. None of them could pick up a flag reliably at even 200 yards. They all always gave me a reading, but it wasn’t always right. Consequently, I found myself overshooting the green all too frequently. I don’t need "help" like that! If interested, you can read my Customer Reviews for each of those at Amazon (under the name O’Falahan). (FYI, the pins at most of the courses I play do not have retro reflectors). I ended up returning all three and buying a Bushnell Neo Ghost GPS. I’m glad I did. It is a compact, no-nonsense GPS that gives me everything I need and it's faster for me than fiddling with a rangefinder. It’s not my first GPS, but it is by far my favorite. Previously I owned the following: Original SkyCaddie Callaway uPRO Garmin Approach G8
  3. Hi All, I’m from Batavia, OH. That’s about 20 miles east of downtown Cincinnati. It’s a great area for golfers — lots of courses per golfer around here, so it’s easy to get onto a decent course for $30-35 greens fees. My league plays Hickory Woods GC as its home course. But we play away on alternate weeks, so we get to play a lot of courses in the Cincinnati area. I started playing when I was about 13 y.o. My then-50-y.o. step father had a scratch handicap and a swing like BenHogan’s. I learned my swing from him. Most who see it wish theirs looked like mine. But, I have to be honest here, it has never worked for me like it did for him. Typically, I score in the low 90s. My best-ever score was 82, which I shot at Hickory woods about five years ago. I’d sure like to break 80. I’m a retired mechanical engineer. Since retiring I’ve spent a lot of time studying the golf swing and improving mine. My game has improved quite a bit. Also, I can still consistently drive the ball 220 yds, so I think my chances of breaking 80 are pretty good. But I recently passed my 83 birthday, so it is going to have to happen soon. Oh, about "VanTrago," my pseudonym: I chose that for two reasons: first, I wanted a name that would be unique and easily remembered, and second, I liked the sound of it. Well, Google is now telling me that it is not as unique as I had expected. Perhaps, "O'Fallahan" (which I've used on other sites) would have been better.
  4. Everybody agrees that perimeter-weighted irons are more forgiving then blades. So, why is it that most top-of-the-line irons are blades? For years, I've been hearing that blades are more workable than perimeter-weighteds. Well, they are certainly less forgiving. But more workable?? My engineering mind is having a really tough time wrapping itself around that idea. Would somebody who likes to pedal that bit of golf gossamer (and knows his oats) please take a few minutes to explain to us engineering-types how it can be that a perimeter-weighted iron would be any less workable than a blade?
  5. • If your impact zone is the size of a dime, it would seem that a professional fitting would be worth your while. However, if it's the size of a silver dollar, it would seem to be a waste of time and money. You would probably be better off to settle for a free online fitting at Ping n Flight and to spend your savings on lessons and practice. Now, if that is a reasonable assessment, then there must be a crossover point between the size of a silver dollar and the size of a dime. Anybody care to venture where that might be? • Most better players would agree that you should be fitted for clubs with the same ball that you intend to use in play. That makes a lot of sense to me. So, does it make sense to be fitted with range balls? Or even Pro V1s if your budget rebells against paying that much for balls? I doubt it. While we're on this subject, I wonder if anybody knows how the playing properties of a ball change with successive impacts. My own balls rarely make it through 18 holes. Balls used in professional fittings have usually seen far more impacts than mine ever do.
  6. Robert/Ohio 19 Yes, but putting is still the bane of my game.
  7. The purpose of a cavity back is to distribute the mass of the club head further from the sweet spot so as to increase its rotational moment of inertia about its center of gravity. In essences, that increase the size of the sweet spot. Now, in doing that, a club designer may choose to move the center of the gravity down at the same time, and that does create what most manufactures sell as a game improvement iron. But a cavity back with its center of gravity not shifted, is still a game improvement iron. Cavity back irons are also made that have their centers of gravity in the same relative positions as blades. It is those clubs that I believe work as well or better for shot shaping than blades. To shape a shot requires applying unusual spin to the ball. To apply side spin, you strike the ball with a slightly glancing blow. To control the shot height you adjust the dynamic loft angle; you do that by shifting your stance laterally relative to the ball or/and by tailoring your swing for the shot. But you still want the club to meet the ball at its sweet spot. Actually, I see no reason why you couldn't do that at least as well with any cavity back as with any blade. Blades can be made with their centers of gravity just as low as can game improvement clubs. In fact, many of today's blades are designed that way.
  8. I re-grip my own now. As others have said, it's pretty easy. To make quick work of taking off the old spent grips, use a hook blade in your utility knife. You'll find them at you local hardware store. Be especially careful not to cut graphite shafts with a knife blade. To avoid that, insert the hook under the end if the grip with the blade tangent to the shaft, and keep it tangent while you slit the grip open. The toughest part for me has been getting the old tape off. There are tape removal tools that make that a lot easier, such as these from Golfworks and Brampton, or you can make your own from an old shaft. It also helps to warm the tape a bit before you try. A propane torch works well for that, if used carefully. Grip solvent will take off what you can't scrape off. By the way, paint thinner works as well as grip solvent for that job. It also works just as well for installing new grips over fresh grip tape. That is all easy enough, but it's messy and you need to wait a few hours for the adhesives to set. But I think I've found a better way. (Thanks to the friend who led me to it!) Now I use a compressor to blow the old grips off and the new grips on. Instead of using grip tape (with adhesive on both sides), I now use pieces of 2-inch wide masking tape cut to the length of the grips. That way, if I'm only replacing worn grips with new of the same model, I don't even have to take off the old tape. How to air-install them is shown in this video. Instead of that special airgun shown in the video, I just use one that came with this $15 air compressor starter kit. To help keep the grip from flopping around and buckling during installation, I slip a piece of PVC pipe over it that is a couple of inches shorter than the grip. (1 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe has an average inside diameter of 1.38 inches; it fits nicely over my midsize grips I have been using Pure™ DTX grips. That is the same brand as used in the application video. I like the way they feel and they last a long time. Two years ago when I last bought grips, they were pretty economical two years ago ($60 for 13), but the price about 50fi higher now. I have heard that grips of other manufacturers can be applied the same way. I blew on my first set of grips with a $15 12-vdc emergency tire inflator. It worked, but it was a bit of a struggle. Since then, I purchased a pancake compressor for other reasons. It can deliver 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi and it works much better on installing grips.
  9. When it comes to shot shaping, I keep reading that blades are better than cavity backs. Yet I have not found a club fitter that can name even one shot that isn't easier or as easy to make with a cavity back. In fact, it seems to me that the only reason why one should even consider buying a set of blades, is for practice. Why? Because blades are so much more sensitive to off-center hits. By letting you know immediately every time you miss the sweet spot, they encourage you to pay more attention to hitting on-center. Off-center hits probably cost us more through-the-green strokes than any other problem. But then, how easy is it to switch back and forth between your practice blades and your tournament cavity backs? I've been wrong before. (Just ask my wife!) If I'm wrong here, I'd like to be informed and convinced.
  10. 1. First name: Robert. Home state: Ohio. 2. Handicap: 18. Driver speed: 97 mph. 3. Driver: Infiniti “Propulsion 440,” 10.5°, 45” long, with Grafalloy “ProLaunch Blue 65” R-flex shaft tipped 1-inch, swingweight C-9.6. 4. Choice: Epic Flash Sub Zero, but it would please me to review either.
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