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Everything posted by JMiller

  1. I am like JBones have a decently high swing speed. Not as high as his but almost the same ball park: ~ Indoors :: 163-168 ball speed (around165 average) -- Comes to around 107 - 113 mph SS. --> I normally am in dress shoes that don't have laces in them, not golf shoes or sneakers. ~ Outdoors :: 165-172 ball speed (around 168 average) -- Comes to around 112 - 118 mph SS. --> I would say that the average is 114 / 168 ~ 1.47 smash factor. I don't really have a violent transition, I have a bit of arm lift (Adam Scott or Greg Norman type swing), I just use gravity to start my downswing and rotate later into impact. The transition of what fires is more smooth then other that have similar swing speeds. I can play an S+ shaft instead of a pure X because of my load in transition as long as the tip is stiff enough not to balloon the bl I'm good to go. For me in my distance / control, it comes down to flexibility and sequencing the kinetic energy properly more so then raw strength.
  2. The pot bunkers that I have seen are normally wood planked faced or sod faced with full grass growing over them. I have yet to see one where the stacked sod is like the links style of say St. Andrews over here in the United States. My guess is ultimately the cost of maintenance of the things. ~ Sand is more expensive then grass to replace and maintain a nicely raked area. ~ Having someone hand sheer / weed eat the face of a sod bunker to make it look pretty is time consuming = labor cost ~ Having someone hand rake the small deep bunkers that a riding machine that rakes the bunker can't get into = labor cost ~ Erosion of the sod faced bunker over time will cause the bunker to need completely rebuilt.
  3. Like i said no golf out near the OBX. I am Raleigh/Durham/Burlington area. Literally central NC. We drove out to Kity Hawk, Nags Head, Corolla Beach July 4th weather was fine, "Art" head already moved through, as a Cat 1 it only really effected the southern part of OBX. We drove down to the Southern part of OBX on July 6th and then back home on July 7th. Flooding was the only issue on the Southern part of the OBX. Because it moved through fast it wasn't even that bad. If it had moved through slowly then it would have been worse flooding wise. Cat 1 and Cat 2 for the most part are not any worse then tornado weather. Lots of rain, little hail & some rain.
  4. Nah I'm in central NC, I just came back from OBX for a small holiday vacation July 4th - July 7th with family.
  5. I'm not sure if this angle has been talked about before. I think course design / layout plays a big role in the time a round takes and money that a golfer most pay to play the course. Here are some major points that are completely controllable by the golf course: Green speed ~ 11 to 13 stimp will add money in daily fees / membership dues in chemicals + water + labor to maintain the grass at a healthy level. ~ 11 to 13 stimp will also add a lot of 3 and 4 putts to the mid to high handicaps game as they don't have the touch to "get inside the leather" outside of 30 feet. --> Final result = Longer Rounds + More expensive rounds. Pin Placement ~ When working at a golf course cutting greens and changing the hole locations, I was always told when cutting a pin to find a flat spot on the green at least 1.5 flag length off the collar of the green. What i did was take a ball with me and throw out the ball on different slopes and see where it rolled to and placed it in that general area. I tried my best to have the ball working TOWARDS the hole rather then away from it. When you cut pins on top of a ridge or just barely onto the side of a slope it because where the ball is working AWAY from the hole leaving the player more long 1st putt. If they go past 10 feet because your crappy pin placement now they have another tough putt back to the pin. --> I always said that I could turn that course from a 4 to 4.5 hour round to a 5.5 - 6 hour round if I cut all the pins in a ridicules place. Starters / Course Info ~ A starter should recommend to a player a tee box based on their handicap or average scores if they have not played the course before. ~ A starter should tell players any local rules that might help speed up play. This is not something the golf course can control, but it is something that contributes to the thinking there is a "problem". U.S. Society ~ We all expect everything to be done quickly and efficiently --> Mobile devices to bring the internet / phone to our pockets to be more "productive". --> Fast food restaurants so that we can get in and out and eat "on the go". --> Golf carts with the theory it will speed up play. (They do have the potential if used properly, a lot of times they are not used properly) NOTE :: I can probably come up with more examples if i wanted to but there isn't a point. We have all gotten to the point that we expect things to be like the Staples commercial "Easy Button". ~ Heck look at how many training aids are floating around and the marketing on clubs for the "quick fix" to improve your game. So with all that said: 1) The game is simply too expensive for a lot of people to play. ~ Equipment to play is a lot of start up money to get going, at the cheapest you might put a bag together for $250-$500 dollars. 2) Parents would rather have their children in team sports. Mostly to teach them socialization and team work for later in life in their jobs. ~ This is fine, just put them in a winter sport team and then have them play golf in the summer teaching them responsibility and honesty a little easier. 3) Entertainment value is low. ~ Other sports, for the most part you can make your own "field" without paying to play a field, just bring the equipment and people to start a game. --> I'm not sure that you can get a completely free golf course due to labor and maintenance, they have to at least break even on it to stay in business. However, this is where membership have a lot of value to a single course.
  6. As a 6 handicap you are not going to find a huge leap forward in club fitting like a mid to high handicap might. It gets to a point where you are splitting hairs and not worth the money in the equipment. I'm not sure if you have ever gone to a tour event and just sat on a par 5 behind the tee box and watched a bunch of groups come through and hit drivers. I have seen some 3 to 5 year old Driver heads in the bag of tour pros this year when I was at the Wells Fargo, U.S. Open (Wed Practice round), Women's U.S. Open (Tuesday Practice Round). These are the best players in the world, get equipment FREE and yet they still play 3 to 5 models earlier of the current driver for that company on the market. To the mid & high handicaps reading this: ~ You will benefit the most improvement short term from a club fitting. As you improve get refit for your equipment as your swing changes. --> A lot of times this is just a shaft change and a lie/loft change that can help as you improve not really the heads that needs changed necessarily. To the low handicaps reading this: ~ IF your swing / putting stroke has the same characteristics as wthen your equipment will still fit you. --> You will see smaller margins of improvement from custom fitting because you have the ability to adjust to equipment that is not perfectly fit. --> You will need to spend more time with a GREAT fitter going back and forth talking about FEEL of a club shaft, swing weight, etc. --> If you know someone that can do it, get your fairway wood and hybrid clubs lie / loft adjusted to fit your swing as well (most players need them more flat and tend to go left with them) --> Get fit for your putter and make sure to check the lie / loft angle on that as well For me personally I play some old stuff: Tour Edge Exotics CB3 4w (first released I think 2010) w/ custom shaft Tour Edge Exotics CB2 19* hybrid (first released I think 2007) w/ custom shaft The only reason I changed drivers this year (only two drivers in the last 3 years) is because my swing changed and my old one didn't launch the ball at the proper optimal angle / spin combination anymore. hope that helps.
  7. Putter for sure. There is a lot more money in fitting for all the other clubs in the bag. You will always have to be re-fit and buy new irons / wedges as the grooves wear out. A lot of people only stick to a Driver for a year or two. It is a continuous cycle in all the other clubs in the bag which includes the following costs on the consumer. ~ Club Materials (Heads, Shafts, Grips, etc) ~ Assembly Labor ~ Fitting Labor (Some shops don't include this if you buy something, in fact most really good fitters don't include it in the price it is additional. If you fit a putter properly for the player it literally can last them a lifetime assuming they don't change anything in their stroke. ~ All the player would need to do is make sure the loft and lie stay consistent, maybe re-shaft it when needed but that's not very often. That's why majority of places do not do putter fitting, it isn't worth the cost to them to fit someone. They would rather have you come into the store and aimlessly buy putters searching for the one that best works for you over time.
  8. Bump, if you updated the board recently it probably over wrote the favicon.ico image. IPB packages their default favicon.ico image in the files for updates.
  9. Thanks, I'm happy that everyone enjoyed the content.
  10. The App is great, it is free and it does all the number crunching for you on the spot. I figured that a lot of people just never adjust for the tee they just adjust for the handicaps.
  11. Sorry that took a minute to get posted technical problems. If you have a specific example you want me to crunch and give you back on a course / handicaps then feel free to post it.
  12. This is completely an FYI on how to make adjustments for different tee boxes, nothing more really. I ran into this situation this past week playing a little Nassau game with a member at Duke. I realize that not all readers are in the United States but I'm sure that the R&A or other governing bodies of the rules, will have some calculation you can use close to the USGA's formula. I pretty much only play 6900 yards or longer because of my length off the tee. It is completely for my personal enjoyment, that is just what works and challenges me personally. I do believe in playing it forward for anyone that is a shorter hitter to enjoy the game more. This adjustment can be done with ANY TEE at ANY COURSE that has an official USGA Course & Slope rating. I'm just using Duke University as an example because I know the course & slope ratings off the top of my head. --> The USGA has a national Course and Slope rating database if you want to look up a course :: https://ncrdb.usga.org/NCRDB So the situation I found myself is was the following, and how to make the adjustments for strokes given. JM ~ 2.3 Handicap John Doe ~ 9.0 Handicap If we were both playing the Black tee (74.8/142) JM :: 3 course handicap JD :: 11 course handicap --> I would owe John Doe 8 strokes However, John Doe wishes to play the Blue tee (71.9/134) John Doe :: 11 course handicap from Blue The adjustment that would need made would be: --> 8 (handicap) - 3 (tee) = 5 strokes Another Example would be something you may or may not run into, using Duke's Course / Slope ratings as the example JM :: 2.3 Handicap (Playing Black :: 74.8/142) --> Course Handicap 3 JD :: 0.0 handicap (Playing White :: 70.2/126) --> Course Handicap 0 --> Tee Adjustments -- 74.8 - 70.2 = 4.6 (round) = 5 I would get a total of 8 strokes: --> 3 (handicap) + 5 (tee) = 8 strokes Next time you are playing a little money game or a mini tournament competing from different tee boxes make sure to adjust the strokes for the players handicaps AND tee box difficulty. REFERENCES http://www.usga.org/handicapping/publications/Competing-From-Different-Tees GHIN Mobile App (Android & IOS) 1) Login using you last name and GHIN Number 2) Click on the top left corner to bring up the side menu 3) Click "C.H. Calculator" in the menu 4) Click "Get Partner Handicaps" 5) You can manually enter a name and handicap OR Click the magnify glass and search by GHIN number / Name & State --> GHIN number is the easiest if the person knows it. 6) Once you have ALL players added into the Partner Handicaps click continue 7) You can now search for the course that you are playing or if it's your home course click the recent tab --> You will be selecting only one tee box for everyone then letting it populate the handicaps on the next screen 9) Click the bottom right corner of each persons name that is not playing the same tee as you are --> A drop down will show up with gender and tee box colors for that course select what is appropriate 10) The app will automatically calculate which person will get strokes and how many. --> It sounds like a lot of steps on paper but it flows a lot smother when actually doing it in the App.
  13. You never know exactly why courses are in poor shape in a given area. It could be a lot of things. Without really having a contact on staff at the course that is honest about why the conditions are in their current state then it's all guess work. Having worked on a grounds crew for a golf course in college you start to understand a little more on where they have to cut some corners to keep in budget and long term hope to turn the golf course around to be in good shape. I wouldn't automatically assume that it is an inexperienced super attendant. Sometimes the person just has to work with what he has and unexpected equipment failures can ding the budget as well. I have heard stories in the past where the Super Attendant did whatever the GM wanted him to at the end of the day it is his boss. This can result in really poor conditions, I know one course this happened to where they lost the greens twice and finally realized that the GM was to blame. Got a new GM new Super Attendant and are turning the course back around finally. Let me give you a good example of something that you probably wouldn't expect at all: Duke University Golf Club has awful fairway conditions and very little sand in their bunkers currently. Duke University G.C. operates independently of the University and Hotel. They had to do private fundraising to change the greens from Bent in 2013 to Champions Bermuda. Trust me when i say it was more Poa annua then bent in 2012 and early 2013. The greens were so bad in the summer of 2012 they punched them every 2.5-3 weeks to keep them alive. I played Duke for the first time in Spring 2012 the greens were great, summer they were awful, fall they were great again. Spring 2013 good, closed summer 2013, fall 2013 w/ Champions they were great. With Duke they need a new irrigation system, so the sand in the bunkers is on the bottom of the list to replace in terms of budgets. They also have a lot of plans that they feels would make the golf course more healthy long term and more interesting to play. However, I don't know that these plans will even get implemented in the next 5 years. Maybe it is the case that the super attendant is inexperienced maybe it is not for various other reasons. I'll probably end up playing Tanglewood again sometime, when that is I'm not sure.
  14. It sucks that the course was in bad condition, most places around here in the triangle have seen some rough conditions late into the season. We are probably about 1 to 1.5 months behind in the growing schedule. The long winter, heavy rains lately can turn a course to crap in a real hurry unless something is done about it. Duke University GC, the fairways were almost dirt late March still laying dormant, It took until first week of May when the temps got up to 70+ and stayed there before the growing started (419 Bermuda fairways, rough & collars). The other place that I played earlier this year has been Mill Creek Golf Club and their fairways had thin spots but looked better then Duke actually. Both places got some winter kill around the collars, not something that was really avoidable do to the winter conditions. I was over at the Governors Club in Chapel Hill late last week when they got 5.4" of rain on Thursday the bunkers had huge wash out spots and were being played as ground under repair, drop in the bunker on sand for the US Open Local Qualifier on Friday. Maybe next time you are up in the NC area you find yourself a golf course that is in full summer conditions.
  15. Just going off what BIG STU said in regards to not being able to pass the P.A.T. You are dealing with people that can play well and have the physical ability / knowledge to pass the playing test. It becomes more mental then Physical for most "players" trying to break through a scoring wall. ~ Reference 10 in my original post is a great book. Golf Flow by Dr. Gio Valiante For people that are struggling that may not have 100% physical ability of a better player. I have not seen anyone that has gotten better with random fixes they read on a golf forum, in a golf magazine or heard by some random person on the golf course. ~ The simplest way to eliminate the BS is to ask the person WHY I need to change, I don't care who they are and what background they come from if that can not be answered fully then they you DO NOT need to take that advice. If you understand the WHY you are doing something in the physical swing, it makes it easier to not change when things get rough and the scores are not as low as you might want. It is about conviction and understanding of YOUR method. ~ A bunch of references form Bruce's Blog did the job pointing that out. It is almost always better to have 1 instructor regardless of classifications and experience that can answer the question of WHY, the truth works, gimmicks don't.
  16. Hope you all find that useful have a good season this year.
  17. Before I get started please give a huge thanks to RPJ II if you find any of this useful or interesting. I really didn't intend to post it here originally. Prelude It has been a long winter for a lot of people in the northern part of the United States. Even here in North Carolina we have had a rough winter with rain and cold weather up until late April. I know some people out there that think that someone whom is not a PGA Class A, doesn't have any business talking about swing methods in general. Trust me I run into them all the time when I get into swing decisions at the local clubs around me. These people have the attitude that someone whom is not "certified" in any way can not have the knowledge of how a golf club should be moved. Heck I have even gotten comments on golf forums about this subject telling me I don't know a thing about a golf swing because "I don't teach for a living". Well, you don't have to be "certified" to have an opinion. Plus if you are truly a student of the game like I am and just enjoy studying the game, you learn things form people more knowledgeable then yourself and from trial and error over the years. It doesn't take being "certified" and/or paying each year to be a "class A" to learn and understand successful golf swings throughout history. All you need is a beautiful thing called Google, and the ability to verify information from multiple places. If you have ever graduated college you know exactly how to research a subject and verify information in papers you write from multiple sources and use references in your material. Base Quote "It is not the method that is incorrect, it is the application of the method that is incorrect." ~ Bruce Rearick Lets think about that quote for a minute here. How often have you read things on golf forums and in golf media of the "best method" or the latest "method" to make a golf swing? This quote is basically saying there is no such thing as a "best method", the best method for you is the one that is the most natural and applied in an effect way. Golf Swing & Putting There have been 3 successful ways to move a golf club in history. Each one has a unique sequence of motion in the downswing to return the club to impact properly and make consistent contact and have control over the ball flight. There methods have been named many things throughout history. One-plane (flat) like Ben Hogan and Arnold Palmer, Hybrid-plane (in-between) like Byron Nelson and Greg Norman, two-plane (upright) like Jack Nicklaus and Tom Watson. You have to match you backswing motion with a downswing sequence that complements the backswing. Backswing sequence & downswing sequence are not interchangeable between the three methods. Ref. 1 So is the approach that is better to use the current "in" method to move a golf club or use YOUR method to move a golf club? Putting might seem different then the full swing but the same base quote applies. It is never good idea to artificially use a method that doesn't come naturally to you. It is much better to simply work on your method and fit the putter to that method. Ref. 2 Golf Media So this spring lets look at golf differently. Instead of attempting every tip you read on a golf forum or in a golf magazine, learn what feels natural to you without thinking. Just go hit balls on the range and approach the shot the same way each time regardless of the results. You simply can not judge random and random fixes will never work. Ref. 3, 4, 5, 6So moving forward it is okay to take instruction for YOUR method to better fine tune that method. However, at some point you need to FEEL what happens in your body to produce a shot not THINK about how to produce the shot. Ref. 7,8 When I was in college (2007 - 2009), i had a very simple swing, people that knew golf swings told me "I love you action". Well I didn't have any conviction in my method of swinging the golf club and like many people reading this article I though that there was a "better method" to swinging the club. From 2009-2011 I tried a ton of things to get better without playing a lot of golf and did nothing but get worse. Trust me one of the most frustrating things for a person that is a 1-3 handicap on the back tee is to go from shooting 76 or better every day to struggling to break 80. It took me studying the game and starting instruction with my current instructor Bruce Rearick to really start getting conviction back into my swing. I learned very quickly from my own mistakes the best question to ask anyone giving golf advice or any advice for that matter is to ask one simple question, WHY. If the person can not answer a question like "why should I make that change?" then they absolutely have no business giving that advice. Moving forward don't be scared to think for yourself and challenge what people are telling you to do to help your golf game. Ref. 9 Get Instruction I say this to everyone that I write swing advice to online. It is much easier to work with a single professional golf instructor then to "poke and hope" trying various tips you hear / read in golf media or on the golf course. Everyone reads one things and all of a sudden they become an "expert" regurgitating what they have read with no true understanding of the material. Find a local instructor that DOES NOT teach a method (Sean Foley is out), you want someone that will just make your swing more efficient within the parameters of what you currently have. Make sure to ask some of the following questions: ~ What is your teaching philosophy? ~ What experience do you have in golf instruction? >> I am hoping it is more then a "certification" especially if you are a 5 handicap or better. ~ Do you offer a free trial lesson? (if so take one and ask the following) >> If you were to change one thing in my swing what is it? >>>> Why should I make that change? ~ Do you allow students to call and e-mail you with updates and questions? >> I have found a steady stream of communication back and forth between myself and my instructor much more beneficial then simply have five, one hour lessons spread out over 3 to 5 months with little communication in-between. If you do not have the access to a local instructor that you can work with in fine tuning you Full Swing, Short Game & Putting I recommend talking to Bruce Rearick. He is a man that has forgotten more about the golf swing and putting then I even know. ~ Burnt Edges Consulting :: Google+, Twitter, Facebook I have been working with Bruce since June of 2012, we are coming up on 3 years of working together it has been a long process and things are finally starting to click for me. Here has been my process working with Bruce so far and I don't see the relationship of working together on my game ending anytime soon unless he stops coaching. 2012 ~ I started with Bruce on my putting, i thought for sure that my weakest link was my flat stick. It turned out i was WAY off. All that happened was I learned a lot about putting and MY METHOD to make a stroke on the greens. It gave me conviction in my method. ~ I loved how he teaches not being a method guy and tweaking what I had with my putter so we started working on my full swing. I think that we quickly learned that here was the source of majority of my inconsistencies. At that point we started to tweak my swing little by little fixing simple things. ~ Late in 2012 I got injured, right golfer elbow. As golfers we all run the risk of something happening, mine happened to be a blown out elbow. >> While injured I spent the Fall and winter making left arm swings only getting a feel for what my left arm should be doing in the golf swing. NOTE :: About a week before I blew out my elbow I had the best 9 holes of my golfing career... a Bogey free 33 on the Front 9 of Duke University Golf Club from the tips I hit 8 of 9 Greens, 6 of 7 fairways, 1 for 1 up/down, just a dream round that anyone could ask for is what happened. 2013 ~ Well, i told Bruce that things felt a little different in my backswing, it felt more natural honestly. I described it and we realized the backswing method had changed resulting in my work from my left arm only swings. >> I was given a choice to continue with the backswing and tweak the downswing sequence to match or tweak the backswing to match the downswing, I was in "conflict" in my swing sequence. ~ I decided that the backswing felt more natural so I pushed forward in tweaking the downswing. ~ I went to see Bruce in person at The Fort Golf Resort in Indianapolis, IN. We spent about 2 hours on the Puttlab inside, then went out to the range and spent about another 3 hours. >> This was probably the best time i have had in golf instruction. It gave me a TON of conviction in my putting and gave me more direction in my full swing. >>>> All the in person meeting did was confirm a lot of what we had developed online via e-mail and that we were on the right track. 2014 ~ I went and saw Bruce earlier this year in late April, the weather sucked so he really spent more time giving my friend a putter fitting then him and i worked on much. The key thing that came out of the meeting for me was just how much a sight line was visually effecting my stroke at times. ~ This year hasn't been anything earth shattering, we are to the point of really getting down to the pure fine tune of the golf swing. Things like grip, grip pressure, posture, ball position. >> These are things that the best players do consistently well, you can screw yourself before the club ever moves if you get them wrong. ~ Now currently it is more on the mental side of things rhythm, visualization, concentration / focus. More Advanced topics that move well beyond the basic understanding of moving a golf club it becomes more about taking the motion to the next level and dealing with pressure situations. Conclusion I shared my experiences and ongoing game development process in hopes that the people reading this will understand that golf is not simple and improvement takes time. Improvement is better suited when you are not forcing things or using the current "in" method / theory and doing things more naturally. Of course you probably will take step backwards in scoring. At the end of the day your score doesn't matter as long as it is honest and you can look someone in the eye and hold your head high proud of the accomplishment that your score is true and you carried yourself with class. The better outlook to take is one from a mastery stand point instead of stroking your ego in wanting to post scores and fixate on results. You are trying to master your game play against a course and there is always a lesson to be learned from poor results. Ref. 10 I don't learn anything from a great round of golf. i learn the most from a poor round of golf or shot when i sit down after the round and analyze what was different between the poor shots and the good shots. i remember the good shots and build on that to help minimize the poor ones. Thanks for reading, jmiller065 References 1. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2013/01/golf-advice-different-perspective.html 2. http://puttertalk.com/community/index.php?topic=37875.0 3. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2012/04/daily-lesson-returns.html 4. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2013/01/golf-advice-different-perspective.html 5. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2012/05/lesson-153.html 6. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2012/05/lesson-152.html 7. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2012/04/lesson-144.html 8. http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2012/04/dont-be-afraid-to-take-lesson.html 9. http://puttertalk.com/community/index.php?topic=37875.msg390317#msg390317 10. http://www.amazon.com/Golf-Flow-Gio-Valiante-ebook/dp/B00C5I5B54
  18. I just now saw your post. It is public now a days think the park owns the 2 courses and par 3 back in their now a days. Here is the history behind the course :: https://www.forsyth.cc/Parks/Tanglewood/Golf/championship.aspx I have played it probably 2 or 3 times now being about 1.5 to 2 hours from my house, I used meet a friend from Charlotte over there once and awhile. It is a tough track from the back at a par 70. It is too bad you didn't get to play it good track.
  19. Good luck to everyone this year, play well.

    1. kygolfer1980


      It's sad it's almost May before you can say that. What a rough winter! Good luck to you as well.

    2. revkev


      Hit them well and hole the putts jmiller!

  20. Be careful about sweet spot and forgiveness because they are two different things. The sweet spot is actually very small on every head regardless of the make. It is the point where you could balance the head itself of the back of a cheap bic pen. For example if you have an adjustable head take out the shaft / adapter completely then put an empty adapter into the hosel locking it into place. Then simply find the balance point on the face where you can have the pen straight up and down but the head doesn't fall off the pen. This doesn't just work on Driver heads, iron heads and wedges only have one true sweet spot and it is small like the driver head. --> Good image to illustrate the point :: Click Here What changes between the clubs is the forgiveness. Parameter weighting reduces twisting on off center hits and would result in better MOI and initial line. Hitting the ball longer and straighter on off center hits aka forgiveness. In short in terms of forgiveness, some rough guesses: ~ The true sweet spot :: 1/16" diameter circle maybe smaller. >> Forgiveness on a modern blade about 1" to 1.25" diameter circle centered at the CoG. >> Forgiveness on a modern CB is more of an oval then a circle. you start to get more forgiveness 10-15% left / right of the 1" circle of a blade. >> Forgiveness on a modern GI is a larger oval then the CB. You start to get more of 1.5" to 2" outside of the 1" circle of the blade. --> Perfect image of forgiveness areas :: Click Here
  21. This is something that normally comes from higher handicaps that don't strike the ball consistently. They will loose a lot of distance on mishits and thus think they are "hard to hit". You would get a lot of opinions on this one that are not really based on the design they are emotional opinions. It really boils down to trajectory / spin for the player if they go with a blade over a CB that could play either one. Blade offers this in general: ~ higher CoG (lowers trajectory and spin) ~ less offset (anti-hook and easier to play a fade for a natural draw player) ~ thinner sole widths (trajectory control) Blades do not have any parameter weighting, thus the forgiveness on them is very low, a miss hit of even 1" of the sweet spot will lose a lot of distance. In all honesty I think it is ball flight characteristics. Some people like myself will launch a CB too high and spin it too much. You start to get the balloon effect. I had to play a KBS C-Taper XS in my AP2s to get the ball flight and spin I wanted. When i switched to the FG62s the C-Taper came out too low with too little spin and thus i switched to a KBS Tour XS 1x SS. Little softer shaft for more spin and higher trajectory. If I were to play both on an LM my guess is they would come out pretty close to the same with different shafts in terms of spin and apex. Looking at OEM recommendations they always suggest a 5 handicap or better. Really OEM just give that handicap because they know someone playing to that level has a consistent swing and can find the sweet spot without much trouble a mishit would be more of a rarity for this type of player. I know there are some players out there that are higher then a 5 handicap that can handle blades, it could be that their full swing is premium but their short game and putting is lacking. My suggestion to anyone thinking about blades is to test hit them out of a fitting cart compared to that same companies CB. Mizuno is a good one, MP-4 is a great Blade and the MP-64 is a great CB. If you use the same shaft in both heads you are probably going to notice slightly different tendencies in the ball flight. You may have to use one shaft in a Cb that is a different fit then a shaft in a blade. Good luck with sorting out the opinions on the matter. I think most opinions that are anti-blades come from people that don't have the game to hit blades, maybe I'm wrong.
  22. Happy to see this turned into a good productive post. Thanks everyone for contributing.
  23. I agree, A ball and even a club at times is nothing but a distraction at first. To sort of add to this idea: For me I tend to start with grabbing my left thumb in my right palm (I'm RH golfer) then simply make the move I am working on isolated w/o a club / ball. For example, only the takeaway, only the to the top move, only the transition, only into impact, only the follow through. Once I can do it without a club at normal speed I will toss in the club grip down and repeat the process. Once I am at 100% speed with the club grip down, I turn the club into the normal position. Once I am at 100% speed with the club in the normal position then and only then will I attempt to hit a ball with it. Three things that help a ton: 1) An instructor that can tape the move he/she wants you to work on of you doing it in a lesson 2) A mirror / video camera (use a cell phone if you want) to tape and confirm that you have the proper positions 3) Reps should help you find a FEEL / trigger to consistently get into that position you are working on. A final note on swing changes. Don't do a Tiger Woods swing overhaul, keep what you have and just tweak it a little.
  24. Thanks for posting this article it was a good read.
  25. New website finally went live >> http://golf.duke.edu The greens are in great shape, the new Champions Bermuda are wonderful, They hold a lot better then I probably would have expected but I haven't seen them real hard either. The greens should be great in the spring / summer time if you all are looking to add a course in the area. It is about 1:15 to 1:30 hours north of Pinehurst, NC as a reference.
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