JMiller

I figured that I would let someone else chime in first because I'm not technically a teaching professional this is not really my section / topic to be in. GENERAL THOUGHTS Please don't take this the wrong way I just want to give a little general advice on tips/ instruction. When I work with Bruce Rearick, regardless of what I know about my swing I still shut up and listen to what he has to say and I like to pick his brain about my swing and general concepts. As a player you have to trust an instructor if you are going to ask for advice and work with a person on your game. It is completely counterproductive to tell an instructor how much you know about something, just take it as a learning experience and a different perspective. A second pair of eyes is always a good thing, when I work with Bruce Rearick on anything in my own game, I listen and ask productive questions to understand more about what I am told. If you are not sold on an instructor's knowledge ask the simple question of "why should I make that change?" If they don't have some kind of good logical answer for you then do not take that advice and find a different person to work with. The reason that I am saying this is that I feel like I attempted to help you last year and well it really sounds like nothing has changed in your swing since the last video you posted. QUESTION RESPONSE Think about how a pull has to happen: ~ face square to the path ~ path is outside to inside to the target line The last time we talked you have a two-plane (vertical) and a lot of one-plane (rotational) downswing. You either get stuck (push or draw/hook = flipping into impact), or cast over the top to get the club out in front of you coming outside to inside the line (slices, pulls, something that starts left) You have two options because it sounds like the same swing I looked at last year: 1) change your backswing to a one-plane rotational swing 2) change your downswing to be more lateral slide and less rotational to match the vertical backswing Nothing is easy to change obviously but for me when I was making swing changes over the last year or less myself the backswing positions are easier to hit then the downswing sequence changes. This is likely because the backswing takes roughly 3times longer to make then the downswing does. The downswing just happens a lot faster. Good luck with the swing.

Well think of it this way. Well think about it, if your hips don't rotate this leaves the shoulders closed, your arms can get out in front of the body rotation causing the club to come inside to outside, where the face is positioned to the path is where the ball will end up. Closed to the path = draw / hook, square = push, open to the path = push cut/ push slice. You can hit a ball putting you butt/ back pointing at the target placing the ball to your lead side (left side on RH golfers) then make a pure arms swing and hit the ball straight to a draw or hook. If you make good contact there is not really a way that is going right unless you have rotated your body out of the start position. This position is actually a release drill a instructor in college taught me. This video pretty much explains the drill well and what happens in a draw and slice. If the body leads the club into impact it is going to create a outside to inside path. If the club leads the body it will create a inside to outside path. You just have to control the face to the path to hit shots, if you over cook one then just learn to time the combination of the two to tone down the curve.

You are likely to get a lot of different answers here for everyone that might respond. Everyone seems to have a different FEEL on how to shape shots. I can offer only what I have experienced in the one-plane swing and Hybrid plane swing now to shape shots and what I know / feel about my swing. Draw Swing more with the arms then the body. The arms have to lead into impact to get inside to DTL or inside to outside. Hybrid-plane >> My weight sift stays back a split second longer the hip rotation feels very passive, the arms swing freally in front of the body. One-plane ~ rotational hips are still there but my arms felt like they did more work them my body. Fade Swing more with the hips / upper body, less with the arms. The hips / shoulders lead into impact with the arms passive. Hybrid-plane >> My weight shifts forward a little sooner, my hips rotate a little sooner pulling my shoulders open and outside to inside, I hold off the release of the head a little as well. One-plane >> I just ripped as hard as I could with my hips and upper body holding off the release a little. So really for me in two different models "arms lead into impact in a draw, hips / body lead into impact in a fade".

No problem, as MBP named me "swing guru" which I find hilarious. I have other people that taught me to thank for my swing knowledge.

If you dig threw all Bruce's articles, you will find him talk about "verbalize your swing". If you can write down the sequence of motion that you make to hit good shots then you will have a good idea of what is going wrong or right in your swing. Knowing how to correct it is a different beast all together

"Good shots are a matter of knowing the process to make the shot. Without a process the swing is random. You can't judge random." ~ Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting) ~ Lession 144 Golf is a repetitive game, If you don't have the same process before every putt / swing then how can you know you did everything in the same way? Here is a good article from Bruce about a consistent swing >> http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2011/07/finding-consistent-golf-swing.html

GHIN: 3.2 Fairway: 16.5* Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Hybrid: 19.0* Tour Edge Exotics CB2 I play a 4wood because I'm ballz-ier then the rest of the posters

Well that depends on if you want the swing weight permanently put into the head or temporary put onto the head. I have a Scotty Cameron Newport 2 that weighed in at 332g, my builder put in 8g of tip weight bringing it up to 340g roughly, then I added 5 rubber tungsten weights to the cavity (3 across the back where Titleist is stamped and 2 on the bottom one on each side of the line in the bottom cavity) to add another 10g of weight to the head. In the end I added 18g of weight to the head to bring it up to 350g, anymore then that it would take more then tip weights and rubber tungsten weights as I'm almost out of room on the head to put weight. I would probably recommend letting a professional figure out how to get the swing weight you are after espesually with the amount of weight you roughly need to add.

Here is a link to the Rifle Q&A where they give the weight and loft of the Aussie putter >> http://www.rifeputters.com/faq/ Weight ~ 335g Loft 1.5* Yes swing weight will change extending or cutting down the shaft. ~ Subtracting 1/2” in length decreases 3 swingweight points. ~ 2 grams is approximately 1 swingweight point in the head end of the club. ~ 5 grams is approximately 1 swingweight point in the grip end of the club. So reducing it by 2" to keep the same swing weight you would have this roughly: ~ 12 points less then originally. ~ assuming no component changes then you need to add 24 grams of weight to the head to keep the same swing weight. To really be able to do this properly you need to pull the shaft clean the hosel from epoxy and have the component weights of each piece of the club. If the head starts at 335g then adding 25g would put it up to 360g. If I recall correctly Scotty Cameron Newport 2 follow the following scheme: ~330g @ 35", ~ 340g @ 34", ~350g @ 33" so it would be ~360g @ 32"