TitleistMike

The ball makers already know amateurs enthusiasts are incapable of distinguishing A from B or Y from Z. They all play a ball because someone else does or they cannot afford something.. Same way they buy shorts shirts and sneakers.

The ball makers already know amateurs enthusiasts are incapable of distinguishing A from B or Y from Z. They all play a ball because someone else does or they cannot afford something.. Same way they buy shorts shirts and sneakers.

Great topic. I am one of those guys who believes IRONS that were best in class 5 or even 10 years ago are good enough for me today outside of groove wear.  However, there are serious if but maybe that apply.
 
Trajectory - the vertical location of center of gravity (cg) is moving as models evolve according to ball flight parameters and club head speed expectations. Club faces shapes can look similar and trajectory will vary according to cg position.
 
Heel toe bias - similar to cg, heel toe bias has shifted over last decades models. Gear effect wasn't well understood when all those high toe and toe weighted models were sold as forgiving but they created a fading gear effect. And now, heel weight bias designs are in use to help shot shapes.
 
In summary, old models are different. Not better or worse.

Titleist 704cb, vokey wedges and Titleist 917  9.5 , 13.5 and 19
 
I used to play Titleist tour model irons vintage 1980 until about 2005 and then tried Tommy Armour Evo and had same experience as Fred Couples.
 
I want a workable club. If I need a slight draw to back left, I want the ball to roll over. Back right, I want to cut it in.  It doesn't really matter to me if my 7 iron goes 150 and other say 175 or more. I want consistent ball flight.  If I trust my iron it doesn't matter if I have an 8 iron or a 4 iron in my hands. The ball will be on the right side of the green.