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Everything posted by smohan215

  1. I was able to snag a lob wedge with this shaft and love it - want to complete the set in the same shafts. Ideally looking for a 54° with 8° of bounce.
  2. Sergio must feel somewhat vindicated in going to LIV, what a wild coincidence that the audio was caught and the ruling was found to be in error.
  3. Preface: I am constantly confused by the rules around OOB, I think partially because a lot of non-competitive play treats it pretty fast and loose. In this clip from Good Good on YouTube, one of the players (Grant) is talking to the camera saying his ball crossed in "right around here" and he's taking a drop. But where he is doesn't appear to be a hazard; there's no stakes, there's no water. It appears to be just out of bounds. It was my understanding (and I could be completely wrong) that you don't get a drop for hitting out of bounds. Here he would have to hit another shot from his original ball and take a one stroke penalty. Is that correct?
  4. I was thinking about that too, but I was struggling with generating too much spin. The 9° driver head with a stiff shaft is new-ish to me and actually fixed a lot initially. BTW! How do you like the Mizuno Fli-Hi? I've been eyeing those to replace hybrids
  5. Hahaha well this is just a little too reasonable for my taste! You're totally right of course, it's just weirdly something I never end up doing. I talk myself out of it because I'm thinking "I'm at the range, I can use this time to 'fix' whatever swing mechanic" which is very much giving myself too much credit to actually do that. So of course I get myself where I have a couple rounds booked and no time for a range session more than pre-round warmup. Poor planning on my part.
  6. I've honestly been of the same school of thought until very recently. My thought was always that if I'm putting my driver in a draw setting, I'm reinforcing whatever swing mechanics I'm creating that produce bad shots. Yesterday I read this article about Scottie Scheffler's bag and the two things that stood out to me were about lead tape and bending the lofts on his wedges. I was also looking up the specs on Jack Nicklaus's irons because I have an old set of MacGregors in his spec I took to the range (man are they hard to hit) and saw that he had his 1/2" short and 0° bounce. Tiger has irons and wedges in his spec produced by Taylormade (the irons are in Scottie's bag) and the legend goes that he had Nike create irons that were like the Mizuno irons he played before they signed him. Anyway, all of this is to say: the best players in the world have their clubs adjusted in every imaginable way - so it's almost arrogant for me to think I'm 'too good' to not use these same adjustments.
  7. I have a buddy that swears his straightest drives are when he dropkicks it because it helps to square the face, so there might be something to it!
  8. When adjusting the hosel on a driver to 'draw' what is this actually doing to promote a draw? With adjustable weights it makes sense; moving weight to the heel will promote the toe to release more quickly, closing the face at impact. But the hosel adjustment obviously isn't moving weight around, so it must be (I'm guessing) adjusting the lie angle to be more upright which typically promotes a draw. With irons this makes sense because the loft is effectively pointed closed when the heel is lower than the toe. Also it seems that turf interaction with the heel and not toe would close the face (dragging the heel as the toe continues to release) as the ball is being compressed - which would also close the face. But since driver has much less loft and no turf interaction, it makes it seem that an upright lie would promote a draw nearly as much. I've never used the draw setting before, because I've normally had a natural draw - which has frustratingly evolved into a push-fade with driver this season. My path is still inside-out but I'm failing to close the clubface. This is probably for another post at another time; but my issue (I think) comes from feeling like I need to help the club to have a positive angle of attack, so I'm releasing incorrectly. My hesitation in using the draw setting is that if the above is correct, making the lie angle more upright when my fitted clubs (Ping Fairway adjusted flat, and Mizuno irons flat as standard) are flat and don't have the same miss seems counterproductive. All of this is to ask: if my typical miss with driver is a push-fade, would using the 'draw' bias adjustment on a Cobra hosel be a potential fix? Caveat: clubs I've been fitted for (irons and fairway wood) are all flat, so making my driver more upright seems like I'd be working in the wrong direction (if my assumption about what the hosel adjustment does is actually correct).
  9. I started playing in earnest during 2020 and after lessons and really working on my swing this past winter, I want to break 90 for the first time with the stretch goal of breaking 90 at three different courses. My swing and game are capable of it, but I struggle to (as most people trying to break 90) mitigate the damage from blow-ups. Starting this weekend, I'm trying to be a lot more thoughtful with my tee shots instead of pulling driver anytime I'm on a par 4 or 5 without an obvious forced layup. Fingers crossed this is a winning strategy!
  10. Similar spot! It's cool to see how many of us that took it up in earnest in early covid are sticking with it and have developed some pretty strong games. I'm similarly in the 90s most of the time and my goal is to break 90 at three different courses this year, which is starting to feel overly ambitious. I play with my uncle sometimes who's consistently an 80s shooter and the thing that always strikes me is just how boring his game is. There's no spectacular shots, he doesn't have really great distance or a very nice swing, but he also just doesn't get into trouble. My swing has improved tremendously in the off-season with lessons and tons of simulator time. Driver and fairway distances are way up, irons are a little longer but have much better trajectories... but my scores are about the same. It really seems like minimizing damage is the key to breaking 90. Anyway, good luck to ya! Excited to see someone else chasing the same goal!
  11. I played my first 18 holes just over 3 years ago and only played a few times before really getting into it last summer. I usually score in the 90s but sometimes over 100. My goal this year is to break 90 at 3 different courses. I think I love the endless progress of it. There's always improvement and work and you can hit some amazing feeling shots on the way. It's been a really great resource learning about equipment! I'm from the Philly area, and my home course will be Five Ponds this summer. The best I'd say is the variety of courses, though I don't know because I've never played anywhere outside of PA and NJ. The worst is definitely the cold months. I work at an advertising agency doing data analytics. It's basically just my email address haha
  12. First Name and Location How do you keep your putting sharp through the winter? Current/Past Experience with putting mats Go to www.birdieball.com and tell us which speed green you'd want to test Sean - Doylestown, PA Putting on carpet, sometimes at a course before a round if it's warm enough Have never owned one but used at virtual golf or that a friend owned - felt like a great way to do technical work on putting, but didn't have enough time/repetition to really get everything out of it. I'd want to test the slow - my biggest putting woe is leaving putts short but reading greens as faster than they normally are. And I normally play public/semi-private courses, so they'll have slower greens
  13. Sean/Doylestown PA/USA Ping Redwood Anser Interested in the Anser 2. I really love my old Redwood but have been considering a newer putter that is similar but features new technology - the Heppler fits the bill nicely.
  14. Sean Mohan - Eastern Pennsylvania 18 Birdies (a few times) Arccos (once) Most frequently estimate yardage by eye
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