IONEPUTT

With the new TM Mini being 307CC, you might want to see if you can find and OLD Cleveland 330 Launcher driver online and see IF you like it before you go out and spend a couple hundred dollars on the new TM, which you may not like at all. I have an old 330 Launcher that I'm sure would be a good test club to try if I was looking to get the new TM, which I am NOT interested it.

I picked up a TM mini driver about 6 years aog. It's nothing more than an over size 3 wood head. Pretty much what you could bey some 20 years ago when 260CC drivers were the norm. I have an old SnakeEyes 260CC 12* driver head I got when I started playin golf 20 years ago, and it's very much the same size and shape as the new TM Mini driver head. Just a LOT more moeny. Bottom line is that the newer Mini drivers are nothing more than an EASIER to hit 3 wood. depending on what loft to get. They work off a tee well and decent off the deck as well. Worth a look, but make sure you get a GOOD after market shaft to replace the cheap factory shaft, and have it properly Spine and FLO aligned it you go with a Mini.

For ME, If I can hit my approach shot with a 9 iron or less. as you would be doing from 130 out, PW, then it's "Aim For The Flag Time. So I would recommend you hit your 220 club and go for the flag with your Pw and hope for Birdie to start your round. When I play a course with a "First" hole like this one, I'd finish my warm-up session on the range with a few 220 club tee shots and be ready for the first tee knowing it will be an easy start to my round.

There is so much wrong with your swing that it's hard to tell you where to start to improve. My advice would be to "Take a Lesson" and learn how to set up to the ball. How to hold the club with a stronger grip. Then learn to NOT move all around during the swing. Keep your head still, and do NOT stand up as you hit the ball and finish your swing. The club face is OPEN at impact and then opens MORE past the ball. Totally WRONG. My advice would be to watch Dustin Johnson and see how he stays in position way past impact and into his finish position. He maintains his body position to the end. He stays bent over, never stands up like you are doing. You are casting the club and releasing your wrist cock way too early. Try to hole your wrist angle much longer so your hands are "AHEAD" of the ball at impact, NOT behind it. Your grip it too weak, that is why the club face is open at impact. If you ever get to Denver and have a few hours to hit the range let me know and I'll give you a free lesson that will getting you straightened out and hitting the ball much better in one day.

Shafts | The GolfWorks This is a link to some shafts made for fairway woods that I just found for you. I myself, have NOT used any of these shafts so I can NOT say if they are good or bad. I use the old Graffalloy EPIC FW 85 gram shaft in my woods and have NOT looked around much of FW shafts that are still being sold today.

A friend of mine had me re-shaft a Ping hybrid of his and when I pulled the head it too had hosel diameter of around .400". I have NO idea why or how, but that was what I had to deal with. Lucky for me, there are brass shims made just for this kind of problem, used mostly to fit either .355" shafts into .370" heads or .335" wood shafts into .350" heads. In this case I used TWO of the brass shims to install a new shaft in the over size hosel and it worked out fine. Customer was happy and the club is still performing just fine. You might want to contact Golf Galaxy or a good club maker and have the brass shims installed. Should solve the problem just fine. Done correctly it works very well.

I play the old ProLaunch Blue FW shaft in my woods, as well as the slightly newer EPIC FW shaft. They are both in the 82-85 gram range and were made just for wood, not a driver. Both were designed to provide a higher ball flight with the woods. Both are NO LONGER being made today, so I would recommend that you do a search online at some of the Shaft company websites and see what shaft are currently being sold that are designed for woods. I have ALL of the wood shafts I will ever need, so I do NOT pay much attention today as to what the shaft companies are selling. Some of the older designs can still be found online if you look for them. You might also check for used fairway woods on E-bay that might have an after market FW shaft installed in them. I've found a few FW shafts that way for a great price. much less that what the shaft alone cost when it was being sold. Any time I can find a used fairway wood for less than $40.00 and it has a really good FW shaft in it that would cost over $100.00 just for the shaft, I call that a good deal. I just pull the shaft, then do a Spine and FLO alignment on the shaft and it's ready to install in a head that I like and I'm happy.

I have been playing 85 gram shafts in my fairway woods for years and love the improved performance I get with that weight of shaft. If you check, you will find that MOST tour pros play a heavier shaft in their woods compared to their driver. As to whether to use the same model shaft in both, that would be best answered by getting a fitting. For me, I like to use a shaft in my woods that was designed just for the woods, NOT one designed for a driver. I find that a LOT of golfers would benefit from having a higher launching shaft in their woods, which is what most wood shafts are designed to produce. Higher ball flight in a wood would help most gofers with more distance both off the tee and off the deck. As for adding weight to the head, that may not help. When you switch to a heavier shaft in your woods, the swing weight will go up, so you most likely will NOT need to add weight, but by all means, TRY IT and see what happens for YOU. As a club builder myself, I see NO reason to NOT try a heavier shaft in both drivers and woods. I get the SAME clubhead speed with a light shaft as I do with a heavier shaft. I've tested my speed with shafts weighting from 50 to 78 grams and see ZERO difference is clubhead speed, while at the same time I see a bit MORE distance with the heavier shaft due most likely to more momentum of the club due to higher club weight. What ever you try, be sure to hit at least 50 balls with the different shaft so you can get used to it. Most golfers hit a few balls and decide it's not for them, It will TAKE TIME to get used to the change before you will know which is best for you.