IONEPUTT

To answer your first question of why there are so few high CG putters, I can't tell you why. I do NOT have a golf lab to test my putter on. What I did was hit balls on the green and looked at the results to see if it worked better or not. I also had a dozen PGA golf insturctors test my putter against their high dollar OEM putters, and EVERY one of thos instructors sain the same thing. My putter rolled the ball better than the putter they had in their bag. EVERY ONE. My putter has 4* of loft to get the ball up out of the small depression it sits in on the green. Once to ball is level with the top of the grass, the high CG takes over and gets the ball rolling toward the cup with no bounce or skidding which is what we want with a putter. Have I don't the testing? YES. Do I have lab data to back my up? NO. I jus thave REAL world test results with over a dozen PGA instructors to back up my claims. IF that is NOT enough for you or anyone else, That's not my problem. I know the truth and if you don't want to accept it, not my problem.

Sorry to hurt your feeling, But it is YOU that is ignorant on this matter> I looked at putter designs and I built a putter with a high CG and then tested it against the top OEM putters and what I found from my testing is that my high CG putter was better at getting the ball rolling on the green than the low CG models the top OEM's are selling. You claim that I am the ignorant one here but the truth is I did the testing with a high CG putter and YOU have not. As we all know, there are not a lot of high CG putters on the market which is why I'm pretty sure you have not done any testing yourself and you are the onw that is ignorant, NOT ME. I'm Glad you are done here because I'm tired of arguing with people who have NOT done any testing and just repeat what others have told them.

That's fine if you want to get new woods and you like rotating the shaft to change the angles, But I for one do not like todays clubs that require the golfer to rotate the shaft as that messes up the spine and FLO alignment of the shaft and that can ruin the performance of what WAS a pretty good club. And not every own wants or needs to go out a buy all new woods. Cost is one factor to consider for most golfers these days.

The same can be said about woods as well. At least with irons and wedges it's pretty easy to have the lie anlge bent up or down if you need to. But with a fairway wood with an muc shorter hosel length it near impossible to bend the lie angle it you need it. Most golfers are stuck with what the factory gives them.

bottom line and the whole point of my posts is WHY would anyone build a putter with a low CG when we know a low CG will cause the ball to go Up and then bounce and skid when it lands which usually causes the ball to roll off line and may even cause the ball to come up short of the cup? I just don't see any reason for a low Cg in a putter and yet most all putters built today have a low CG. Just makes no sense.

I was talking about the up and down CG of the putter, NOT, the toe to heel CG of a putter. Two very different things in terms of how a putter will perform. I build my putters with a HIGh CG for better roll and the CG tow to heel is in the center as I always use a straight back and forward putter stroke, not a arc stroke. For those that use and arc stroke some believe the putter should be toe heavy.

Again YOU are so wrong in what you are posting. And it's NOT about sales and marketing, as I do not build my putter for sale, I build them for my own use and as presents for a few of my friends and customers. NOT for sales. Also, if you look at the second link you might see that they talk about CG, and that is what I'm talking about. My putter has loft and ith has a high CG, both of which help to get the ball rolling and not pop up into the air too much, which is exaxtly what all the other putter designs do. Bottom line is that my putter design works better than the others out there, And I've tested it and had over a dozen PGA golf pros test it as well and they all agree that my puter rolls the ball better than what they have in their bags.

I don't believe we were speaking of loft, rather high or low CG. As for loft, my putter design has 4* of loft to get the ball out of the small depression it sits in on the green, but then the high CG causes the ball to roll rather than be launched up into the air, like just about every other putter will do becuase of the low CG of the head. My putter just rolls the ball better for more on line putts that go in the cup more often.

Sorry about that, I didn't mean to quote you. My mistake.

NO I don't. I want the ball to roll as soon as possible. Maybe YOU want to launch the ball into the air but I don't and I don't know anyone that does. And that is why when I designed my putter I built it with a High CG to roll the ball and NOT launch it up into the air, and it's why my putter design rolls the ball batter than any putter that I have tried and I have tried dozens of them over the last 212 years. I had a dozen golf instructors try my putter and every one of them preferred my [utter over theirs. My design just rolled the ball better than theirs, which is what they all wanted in a putter.

Has anyone here tried hitting UP on the ball since watching this video and if so what do you think of the tip?

It's just more LOW CG putter when we all know that a low CG is good for getting the ball UP in the air and last time I checked that is NOT what you want to do when putting. So I big fat NO for me.

can buy a can of spray paint in any color I want for about $3.00 so why would I or anyone else pay $2500 for a paint job? Not sure how Paint that has been around for thousands of years can be called ground breaking technology? This is just one more reason I think L.A. Golf has their heads up their butts.

Iv'e watch a few of Paul Wilson's videos over the years and I even have one of the first books he wrote years ago. And I fine his tips and drills to be very good and they work quite well. I would say to give this tip a try if you have an over the top swing and see if it works for you as it did for his students. Well worth the time to try it.

Thank you for pointing out that this tip to place the driver head well behind the ball is easy to try. It would be nice if more readers on here would do what you plan to do , and just try it out before saying it does not work. If you try it and it works, great, if not no problem, just don't do it again. Have an open mind and be willing to try new ideas and tips from time to time and learn what works for you. I did that years ago and I currently am hitting my driver 260 yards carry with a 78 gram shaft and I'm 75 years old, fat and out of shape. Hitting up on the ball with my driver and woods off the tee seems to be working pretty well I would have to say.

I did NOT tell anyone to move the BALL 6-7 inches at set-up. What I wrote was to move the driver head back 6-7 inches behind the ball and look at a spot just in front of the face of the driver, That is NOT the same thing as moving the ball . I hope this will clear up the confusion and allow you to understand the idea better.

Please re-read what I posted, I did NOT say to make two swings, I said you make two swings IN TERMS of hitting up or down, that is NOT the same thing as making two different swings. It's only confusing to you because you failed to read the entire sentence to the end.

You do NOT have to make two different swings, Just place the driver head 6-7 inches behind the ball and ball position will do rhe rest for you with one swing, not two.

The longest hitting on tour with a driver is Dechambeau and he uses a driver with about 5* of loft and he hits up on the ball in the area of 5-6 degrees from what I've seen in videos of his. Hitting up with a driver gives more carry and less spin for more total distance, which is pretty much everyone wants with a driver. While I admit I'm NOT a big fan of his swing, it's pretty hard to argue with his results when he can hit a ball over 340 yards carry when he needs to.

I don't know about you, but I try to hit UP on the ball with my driver and woods then hitting off a tee for a higher launch angle and more carry distance, which is what most of the tour pros are doing. That is NOT what most golfers want to do when hitting balls with an iron. With an iron most golfers try to hit down on the ball at least a little to get more spin. NOT the same as what you want with your driver. So there should be two swings in terms of hitting down or up. You might wnat to try it yourself and you might learn a little about this craxy game you have not liearned so far.

It's now a month later and I wanted to point out something about that video about hitting UP at the ball. One thing the guy FAILED to mention and which is the True Secret to the tip is that you should LOOK at a sppt right in front of your driver when it's well back of the ball. Focus on a spot well behind the ball and you have a much greater chance of having the Bottom of your swing well behind the ball so your club head is able to move UPwards when it contacts the ball. I've been dont this for a long time now and it works quite well for me and those I've taught this tip to over the yearss. If you look at the ball you tend to have the bottom of your swing right behind the ball and when you look at a point some 6-8 inches behind the ball your bottom of your swing tends to be well behind the ball and you can hit UP at the ball with no problems.

This 300 rounds idea is total garbage, as it would depend on how much practice you do between rounds that would be a better factor when you combine it with the rounds played. Total number of balls hit would be a better way to go.

I just watched a video about how to spend 2 minutes to gain 30 yards off the tee with one simple change to your driver set-up. Here is a link to the video if you think you might like to try it out. When I watched the video I was thinking I might find something NEW to try, but what I found was something I came up with on my own about 10 years at and have been doing ever since with great results. I teach it to a lot of golfers when I go to the range and give a leasson to someone struggling with hitting their driver. This is the only video I have ever seen that mentions this idea and it should be standard advice for ALL drivre lessons in my opinion as it works great for hitting up on the ball with little or no effort.

That's a nice putting platform IF all you want is a FLAT green to work on. When I was designing my putting green I went with 3/8" plywood so I could change the slope of the green as I wished. All I had to do was raise one or more corners of the sheet of plywood and ti would bend nicely and let me putt up hill or down hill with left or right break as I chose to set it up. Much more versatile than a flat solid platform as the one you built. An automatic ball return like the Robo Cup is a great idea as it lets me putt a lot faster for more practice in a shorter length of time. With your solid and stiff platform, you might want to think about adding adjustable feet around the edges so you can raise one side of the green to give you some slope in your green. Much more challenging and fun when you have to read the greens.

I don't remember posting anything about giving FREE advice in my comment. just figured that they could help each other. OP gets his club fixed and a club builder gets some extra work and some money in the deal. That would be a win for both of them. I have not been in PA for over 55 years so I have no idea how far apart these two gentlemen are, but I figured it was worth mentioning that they are both in PA and it might be a good fit if they got together on this issue. I didn't mean to start an argument guys. Have a nice weekend and I hope it's a lot warmer where you than it is in Colorado this week. High of 24 today, low of 8.