Jump to content
Testers Wanted! Shot Scope V5 ×

Xstiffshafts

Member
  • Posts

    305
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Xstiffshafts

  1. RB7 chimes in with multiple masterpieces as always haha!

    Xstiffshafts, great work keep it up, on suggestion would be to invest in a glass bead blaster, the finish will be much more uniform,blast it after sanding then torch.

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

    Yeah man I have a blasting cabinet. And occasionally will blast b4 heating if I'm going for a muted, satin finish. Though the idea on the latest finish was to try to replicate (as closely as possible) the oilcan finish that this was originally finished in. I don't have a plating setup or bluing tank, so it's been a lot of trial and error to try to get that mix of blues and browns that was Cameron's best finish imo. Anyway it's intentionally uneven, at least the most recent post is.

     

    Good looking out on the suggestion tho. Thanks man!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  2. Imo the Wedge vs putter is an apples/oranges comparison. Putting is and should be generally pretty low impact- that is, the collision between ball and club is, well it's hardly even a collision. Contrasted against the strike that occurs on a full wedge swing... I've worn the faces of brand new vokeys down in a summer before. I was playing daily, but still, repeated impact takes a toll. Paint will chip scuff and look like hell after a few strikes - full swings are violent. I have a vokey that I did in polymer and a Callaway 3 iron. Neither finish lasted through impact with more than 4 balls. I'll find pics and post.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  3. I'd also recommend preheating the metal so it'll flow better once it's on there and the solvents flash off a little quicker and it becomes more uniform

    Yeah I have been preheating at the temp I cure at, which is about 315°-320°. I usually preheat for approximately 7-8 mins to get the solvents to evaporate when they hit the metal and leave the pigment behind. I haven't been thinning the product I use (which cures at ~315° for about an hour) and is tougher than nails once it cures. It's a firearms coating that I've seen others use successfully... I'll PM you the name and see what you'd suggest on thinning.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  4. Your polymer is too thick and you're spraying it on too thick is why it's wrinkling. It needs to be thinned down, atomized more and sprayed from a further distance. And you'll want a bake on product

    Thx RB7, your knowledge is always appreciated.

    You see the same problem here just to a lesser extent? I've been experimenting with different techniques.

     

    AMMDp3S.jpg

    dS47wgX.jpg

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  5. Going to start working on my first Scotty re-paint this weekend! Got my Tamiya paints and all the supplies, just need to set the time aside to start the project.

     

    A side question though, does anyone know what white paint will match best to a Taylormade M2? buddy of mine need his touched up and wasnt sure if the Tamiya White Gloss would work.

    Anybody used that point or something different for an M2 touch up?

    Not totally sure, tamiya is quality stuff and should be a good starting point. RB7 has done some great looking driver work and may have some insight to the best option for trying to clean up paint chipping on the M2 crown. I have a '17 M2 that has some nasty chipping along the line where the face meets the crown. I think I'm going to read up on DIY spray jobs and maybe go all black on it. Expand the horizons.

     

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

×
×
  • Create New...