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Franc38

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About Franc38

  • Birthday 10/24/1974

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    Franc38

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    France
  • Interests
    Golf? / Family / Watches / Music / Maths

Player Profile

  • Age
    40-49
  • Swing Speed
    101-110 mph
  • Handicap
    7.8
  • Frequency of Play/Practice
    Multiple times per week
  • Player Type
    Competitive
  • Biggest Strength
    Approach
  • Biggest Weakness
    Putting
  • Fitted for Clubs
    No

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  1. I usually keep using a ball until it's lost or too scuffed to fly "straight". What I usually do is pick a ball in my bag that's not too scratched or even a new one, and play with it. If I loose it, I'll pick another ball in my bag, if I don't loose the ball in the 9 or 18 or 14 (in winter I often do play 14, the routing of the course allows it and the time before sunset is OK) back in the bag it goes, where I'll probably pick it up the next time I play. After a while my bag is full of very used balls (either my old ones or balls I've found while playing) and I use these for chipping practice, or some times I use them on the range (only with short irons, else I could go over the back net as my range is fairly short. At this time I usually put a few (4 or 6 typically) new balls in the bag. Rinse and repeat!
  2. in France, the standard (recommended and sort of implemented by the federation) is as follows: Black (tour tees... not existing everywhere, far from it, and often not maintained except for pro comps), white (initially for men comps with lower than 11.4 index), yellow (men competitions, with higher than 11.5 index), blue (women competitions, index below 11.4) and red (initially for women of index above 11.5). Then you have orange tees for the kiddies aged less than 12 and with a "high handicap" (national U12 comps are from blue tees more often than not). Two or three years ago, they decided to act and change the "pro/lower handicap men/higher handicap men/lower handicap women/higher handicap women" description, as indeed a man in his 80s, even if a skilled player, will be usually shorter than a top amateur girl in her 20s and all sort of other "anti-sexist" considerations. They came up with an algorithm that recommends the tees to use based on a mix of age and index. That's obviously for "recreational play". In proper regional/national competitions, everyone tees up from the same tees, which are likely to be a combo of the black and white tees (for men) and a combo of yellow and blue tees for women. These combos set so that the average single figure handicapper of each sex driving at 230m and 190m respectively are "challenged a bit but not too much" distance wise.
  3. I really have a hard time understanding the ego connection with tees... I mean, I try to play "normally" from tees where I'll have a PW or a 52° as my second shot on the "average par 4" and where reaching most par 5 in 2 is a stretch, a bit of a gamble. That's my "normal" (and quite a bit in line with the "5 iron carry times 33" rule). But I do often tee from the forward tees, the "tour tees" or a combination. It keeps things interesting, different, and offers me the ability to work on different shots. I sometimes play with friends of the fair sex and tee with them. Some par 4 become almost par 3, most par 5 are reachable in 2, the "partial wedge play" comes front more, the driver gets a bit of rest, the 4 wood, 3 hybrid and 4 iron get used on many tee boxes. It's fun, it's refreshing... and we can keep talking a move fast easier that way... You can get your guys to try mixing up tees a bit, randomly at first (like a roulette to choose the tees for each hole) and have them realize that if you play "serious, competitive golf" and use the index, slope and the rest, it's often times harder to shoot below your handicap from the forward tees as you get less shots from the course... But those shots you shoot are more accessible if you're not as long as you used to be!
  4. That's rather lovely looking (if you like darker clubs) but I'm a bit shocked at how thick the topline is, how large the sole and how much offset there is. I though that these clubs were in the same sort of bracket as my Bridgestone J38cb but visually at least that's really not that similar.
  5. Using plastic (of some sort, resin maybe) tees from Decathlon. I just don't break them (or very rarely), or lose them (they're a bright fluo yellow) and I probably use 3 of them per year while playing almost daily... Being stronger than wooden tees, they also work wonders as pitch mark repair tools... Sure, "plastic" is not biodegradable, but that's not a problem as my tees don't have to degrade on the course, they just get back in my pocket. And on the rare occasions when they fly in a place I don't find them, some other golfer will find them soon and use them again. Better that than a wooden or bamboo thing that will degrade "fast" but that fast still takes months if not years and will not be reusable after a short while... and ends up costing more as you use so many of them, plus may have a dulling impact on mowers' blades.
  6. I have a Boblov that I got from Amazon a few years back (3? 4? can't say for sure, I changed the CR2 battery 3 times I think, and use it "roughly"). It's got slope, vibration, it's not the fastest ever when using pin lock but in standard mode it's pretty much instantaneous, the distances are never more than 1 yard off from what friends with Nikon's or Bushnell's expensive units get, The only negative is that the dioptric adjustment doesn't stay in place so I have to fiddle with the thinggy about once per round to have a pin sharp image. Other than that, my 90 dollars unit performs just as well as the "big boys" and I certainly will replace it when it dies (probably in a looooong time) with a similar unit. I might actually change before it dies or does anything wrong, just to get the "newer things" like a visible and easy to access slope toggle and a possibility for red display as I often play dusk golf!
  7. A lot of people believed that the path was determining the direction and the face, the curvature. Top teaching pros and tour players included. They still were wrong. A lot of people think that "feel" is in the hands and has nothing to do with sound, until they try in a controlled, serious way. Plenty of people think they can't play this or that, until they try with a free mind and realise marketing had them think things that weren't real.
  8. agreed, the difference between balls is a bit in the feel section (and that's mostly for chipping and putting, anything more and the speed makes the club itself the major "feel" component) and in the numbers you see on the launch monitor, much less in actual behaviour. A very very spiny ball, like the Inesis tour 900 checks a bit faster on hard greens than a Titleist Velocity, but that won't be a 4 yards difference, more like 1 or 2 yards max. Are we accurate to the yard or 2 yards, methinks those who'd say yes are delusional. Regarding distance and all, same thing, the difference (which undoubtedly exists) is minute and cannot be easily seen within the distance dispersion that we "naturally" have by our not so accurate impact location, slightly fatting this one, take the next one 3 or 4mm to the toe, then 4mm to the heel and so on... For me the Inesis tour 900 which is, in the MyGolfSpy latest big test, the shortest and spiniest urethane ball goes "about the same distance, give or take 2 or 3 yards" than the proV1x I use at times, that is, on the same holes, for similar shots, they both end up in roughly the same area... What I do notice in actuality between a very cheap ball and a proV1x is: - the cheap/hard ionomer ball flies or launches a bit higher, so visually it's a slightly different trajectory (but the results are very similar) - the sound is (a bit) nicer when putting/chipping, albeit some might prefer the "firmer" "clickier" sound of a proV1x to a proV1, so the "cheap" ball if it wasn't already, in our mind, damned, would be fine... - the chips check a bit faster, but again, after testing, it's more visual than real, and the real part is negligible compared to our inaccuracies. By the way, I often play with the ultra cheap, hard as nail, Inesis distance 100... And I've played some of my best rounds, score wise, with this ball... You just have to chip and putt a bit with a given ball, and keep that one ball for your round to adjust to whatever differences there are. If you can't... well, I bet your handicap is high enough that it really doesn't matter what you play, you'll shoot the same!
  9. I have 5° between the PW (47°) and my gap wedge (52°) and then 6° between said gap wedge and my sand/lob wedge at 58°... Gaping isn't much of a problem for that, I'd say as we're talking wedges, so very lofted, relatively high bounce clubs with short-ish shafts, that are made for "funking them". So I play full PW, full 52° sometimes but then again most shots with these 3 wedges are "partial", cutty (I usually play a strong draw), open faced.
  10. I don't use cart bags, as I walk 99% of the time. However, I've tried "hybrid" bags with 14 slots, and they're not great, the grip (midsize) catches the fabric often, the space in which you have to insert the club back is rather small (obviously we don't have bags with a 15 or 25" opening diameter). I've had bags with 5 slots, now 4, and they end up being much more practical, sure the clubs can get mixed a bit but you end up have a larger space, even if shared, and therefore clubs go in and out easier. I doubt the added 1" or less diameter in cart bags change things that much. That's probably the reason why tour bags have a limited amount of dividers : less catch!
  11. If they allowed 15 clubs that wouldn't change a thing for me... I currently carry 13 clubs and I'm just fine with that. Used to have 3 specialized wedges (50/56/60) and moved to 52/38 to "simplify my short game" (it worked!) but I didn't substitute that by a club in the top end (my needs are well enough covered and the gapping is good between Driver / 4-wood 16° / 3-hybrid 21° / 4 iron 24°)... maybe a 18 or 19° club with law launch could help in windy conditions but I never have a shot that I miss a club for. 230 yards is somewhat of a "missing yardage" but a great 3h could reach or just be a tad short and a cutty 4w would probably be just a wee bit long, so that's sort of covered. And as I'm not that accurate at these distances, if I'm 230 yards away from a flag I'll more likely than not hit a 6-5 or 5i and then hope for a chip and a putt. As I walk and carry one less club is 300g-ish less on the back, not a bad thing!
  12. Currently I have 5 brands in the bag... Driver and 3-hybrid are Nike 4 wood is Inesis 4-PW irons are Bridgestone 52 and 58° wedges are Vokey Putter is Cleveland
  13. Hollow body construction like the sub70 699 pro, tends to lower the CG of the club and therefore pushes the launch angle up. Add that to lofts that are strong (compared to old time standards) but not as "jacked up" than most comparable sets and you have a recipe for a higher ball flight than with most comparable irons. Now, lets be honest... there are not that many people who really need to bring the ball flight down (typically very high club head speed players who are in windy places with hard greens). If you need to keep the ball "low" on links-y courses, and hit it very fast, blades and small cavities may help... And ultimately you'll end up with a PX 6.0/6.5 (not LZ) or a DG X100 as these are the "kings of lower balls". If you really want KBS, that will be a C-taper. Rest of the market (and that's a big big part) would probably benefit from a higher ball, hence the popularity of the hollow heads. I mean, distance is fine and all, but with irons you don't want to be long, just consistent at the same yardage with the same club AND hold greens!
  14. I don't really have a 3wood. I carry a 16° wood with 42" shaft. I guess that is a 4 wood. Anyway, I do use that thing a lot... I mean, my driver is the absolute on/off part of my game, possibly worse than my putting. On a given day I might drive "fine" (ie straight... I typically spin the ball too much with that dawn club, so I rarely get more than 260 yards out of it) and on an other one, I block 7 out of 10 drives miles right. So here comes the 4 wood. It goes about 240 yards, pushing to 260 on dry hot days and it draws a few yards or some days cuts a few yards... Sure I do get the occasional snap hook, but that's all. So I tend to use it often off the tee. I don't have many holes where it's making sense for me to use it for a second shot (the par 5s that are "the right distance" to get there in two with that club are either double dog-legs or with tiny greens guarded severely) but it can help if the previously mentioned snap hook has me playing my second shot from the woods 150 yards from the tee box
  15. Forged is forged... no matter what. That means if the head is made from one piece of metal, heated to sufficient temperature and then "stamped" into form by a big ass hammer (press/die/whatever) then it's forged. If it's constructed differently it's not "really forged". However, the process by which metal is put in form doesn't really affect its physical or sonic properties. What may have an impact is the "heat treatment" and the composition of said metal. So a 1020 steel or its Japanese equivalent the S20C will "feel the same" (for a given club head geometry) whether they are cast or forged.... Now, you will have a hard time casting these type of steels (bubbles will form, the homogeneity of the metal will not be great) and forging the steels or steel alloys used in cast clubs will typically require temperatures in a very narrow band, or presses with a required power so big that it's ultimately unpractical. Mizuno does forge a stainless steel in one of the JPX irons, if memory serves, but it's a rare exception. However, other industries (automotive, aerospace, power plants) do use forged pieces from non "soft carbon steel"... The cost might not be accessible for golf clubs companies, though. So we end up with forged irons forged in soft-ish carbon steels, and cast irons in hard-ish stainless steels. And associate the softness with the forging, but I don't think that's really were it comes from. Soft steel makes soft feeling clubs, whatever the method. (that said I play Japanese irons in S20C, Endo forged, and I love the feel of a pured 4 iron in the morning... a bit less so the feel of the same thinned or too close to the heel )
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