Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

32 Excellent

About ChiefMikeOfficer

  • Birthday 06/13/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Madison, WI
  • Handicap:
  • EBAY ID:

Contact Methods

  • Instagram
  • Referred By:

Recent Profile Visitors

542 profile views
  1. First Name/City State: Mike / Madison, WI Handicap: 3.3 Current Iron Model Played: Mizuno JPX919 Forged (4-6) / Tour (7-PW) Combo Set Which would you like to test: PTX Pro-Icon Combo w/UiHi (Icon might technically be a better fit, at least on paper, but the combo is a better comparison for my current set).
  2. - Mike - Madison, WI - 3.3 - Mizuno JPX 919 Tour & Forged Combo set - T100-S
  3. I think this is where we're saying different things -- this example is similar to my Aldila example. I agree with you in general, but this chain is about Club Champion. Club Champion doesn't charge $350-400 for the head, they charge $499 plus $350 for the Ventus. They might offer you the $499+$250 option direct from TM then tack on retro-PUREing for $65, or they might not for that kind of shaft upgrade. Maybe I'm wrong here when it comes to woods -- like I said, I've only bought wood shafts (not heads) from them, but this is the exact pricing scheme that they had for my irons, and others in this thread are reporting similar things. For my 7 iron set, the "Club Champion option" (buy shafts directly from CC) was significantly more expensive than buying the assembled irons from the manufacturer and retro-PUREing w/new grips (I don't remember the exact price difference because I threw the quote out almost immediately, but I'm pretty sure it was more than $30 per club -- there was certainly no "head-only" price reduction if buying shafts through CC).
  4. @RickyBobby_PR it's not exactly the same, notably for clubs/shafts with adapters that you can just pop in and out. Some stores and ordering methods are roughly the same, but there are quite a few other factors mixed in -- for example, discounts/contracts that the OEM and/or shop has with the shaft manufacturer could change the pricing and strategy. The buying strategy is a big factor too, as there are (at least) three potential ordering methods with other shops: (1) If the shop orders directly from the OEM with the upgraded shaft (which you can do online as well), then you might or might not be paying full MSRP for the shaft upgrade; (2) if the shop orders the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer, then you will most likely buy the club with the stock shaft and buy the upgraded shaft separately, so you'd end up with two shafts (unless you just opt not to go home with the stock shaft, or the shop chooses not to do it this way); (3) if the shop orders components separately (the CC model), you pay full MSRP for each component. I think that's @Dr Strangelove's point here - Club Champion will direct you toward getting the head and upgraded shaft for full MSRP of both, and you only walk away with one shaft when you could walk away with two shafts for roughly the same price. The best strategy is going to vary across people and situations, but for me, as long as I'm using a driver with interchangeable shafts, I'd rather take the "two shaft" option if I can get it for a very similar price - I always keep an extra shaft on hand to help with resale and/or trade-in when I get a new driver head (I'm sure this extends beyond me, but I definitely would not include my Accra in a resale or retailer trade, and instead plan to keep it for my next head). Examples of where the pricing could be different: Poking through the Mavrik shaft upgrade options, here are two comparisons. DISCLAIMER: I don't have quotes from Club Champion on these shafts, but every shaft I've bought from them was full MSRP, so I'm going into this with that as an assumption: Aldila shafts may come at a discount. If you upgrade from their stock Rogue White 130MSI to the Rogue Silver 130MSI, ordering direct from Callaway will be a $300 addition. The Silver MSRP is $450 and it's selling for $425 from two of the online retailers I trust, so buying both the head and shaft from CC would be a $125-$150 premium over a direct OEM order for the same config. This discount may be explained by the fact that the stock is the same brand, so they might cut Callaway a deal on upgrades. As I mentioned in a post above, CC could order the Aldila config directly from Callaway for that same price. They do this with the $0 upgrade shafts, but I'm not sure how they'd handle a $300 upgrade option, and in my experience, they will still push you to buy the shaft direct from them rather than from Callaway. Oban: Callaway appears to have no discount, so their direct price will be the same as CC for the single-head-single-shaft setup. If buying Oban, buying the full "stock" club separately and the shaft through CC lets you walk away with two shafts for the same price. Being 100% fair on the price difference, PUREing and the adapter are also factors. If buying the full club directly from CC, I don't know if they include an adapter or if that's one of their add-ons; buying the shaft only, you'll definitely pay ~$35 for a new adapter through CC, unless you let them take the adapter from your other shaft. For PUREing, buying the full club or the shaft from CC likely includes PURE in the retail price, while it's ~$65 for them to pull/PURE/reassemble (so in the Aldila case, you're looking at a $365 shaft cost for the Callaway-direct upgrade).
  5. That's been my experience too. I bought a set of Mizuno irons from them last year, got fit into a shaft that Mizuno offers as part of their catalog, and decided to PURE the shafts. They offered me two purchase options: (1) order it assembled from Mizuno and have them pull/PURE/reassemble, or (2) order the shafts through Club Champion separate from the heads, which made the PUREing process cheaper. Option 2 was significantly more expensive - I don't remember exact numbers, but it was in the $200-$400 range for 7 irons. They tried to sell me on option 2, saying something about their shafts outperforming the ones from Mizuno - I made sure to ask if they were actually the same shaft and not a lower quality OEM label, and they confirmed they are the same, so I'm not sure where the outperformance comes from. I also had them replace my driving iron shaft with a new custom shaft (previously matched my irons, went graphite), and they either kept or trashed my old shaft. For woods, my strategy is to buy shafts only from Club Champion, and buy heads off the rack or direct from the manufacturer. As long as I stick with the same brand and they don't change the adapter, I just buy the full club, swap shafts, and sell the old head with the new shaft (did this with my Epic when I upgraded to the Flash - the buyer was happy to have a new OEM EvenFlow with the old Epic head) - even if switching brands, a clubmaker will swap the adapters for around $20-30.
  6. There seems to be a big counterfeit grip operation going on around the web. I ran into this myself, and eBay was not willing to contact other buyers of the counterfeit products (they will only take action if the buyer reports it themselves, but many buyers were happy with the product), so I'm posting here in hopes that word can start getting around. There's a stigma around bargain hunting on eBay that leads to shaming the buyer with the "what did you expect?" question, but counterfeits are not just a bargain-hunting problem. I know this is an active issue for Golf Pride, and they even say so on their own website, but it may affect other manufacturers as well. If you or someone you know purchased grips on eBay, Craigslist, Amazon, or another e-commerce site from a seller that's not an authorized retailer for that brand, they might be counterfeit - make sure the buyer is aware, and urge them to take action with the seller and/or platform if they end up being counterfeit. Obviously this is not going to affect 100% of purchases, but I bought a set of fake grips off of eBay, the specific eBay seller had a lot of similar grip auctions (even offering to sell me a second lot in a different color), and I saw a lot of listings from other sellers that looked nearly identical to mine (just with different models/colors). My mistake: I've been using Golf Pride MCC grips for a long time. I've trying to get my hands on some different colored grips for a while, sick of the stock color schemes from Golf Pride. I couldn't get my hands on Golf Pride's super limited stuff (e.g. I really wanted the PGA Championship color scheme, but who knows how many were actually made and how to get them) and the new MCC Teams color schemes aren't coming out until closer to mid-season, so I went searching. I found some MCC Whiteout grips on eBay in the Green/Yellow color scheme, which is something I remember seeing in the past (in fact, they are featured on the old GP YouTube video), so I took the bait -- I expected the material would hold up well enough over time, pricing was on the lower end but consistent with old clearance prices for the same grips at legitimate retailers, and other red flags didn't show as red until after I clicked "Buy" (e.g. listing claimed Idaho but product shipped from what appeared to be a UPS Store in Florida; when asked, seller could not tell me what year they were made). After receiving them, I looked a little deeper at GP specs and ran some tests -- I found cosmetic flaws (see photo 3 - lines don't match), inconsistent grip weights (GP said 49.5g, mine ranged from 51-55g), and even inconsistent grip lengths (weight differences appeared to be explained by length inconsistency - see photo 2, which shows a slight length difference). I had mostly decided that these were counterfeit, but I decided to contact Golf Pride directly to see if they could give me tips to determine authenticity and report it to them if they turned out counterfeit -- GP did way more than I expected, even accepting photos to review with their quality department to confirm they are, in fact, counterfeits. I gave them all the info I had to help with an investigation, but given the return address(es), I think the investigation is going to hit a dead end and these guys will continue selling a bad product. In the end, I got my refund and learned a lesson. A lot of others have fallen for the same thing but are unaware of the issue. Some might not care. Regardless of the situation, if you're looking for an alternative or just trying to save a few bucks, beware - I'm not saying definitely don't buy off of these sites, but if you do, use extra caution.
  7. I'm a fan - I've been looking for new color schemes for quite some time, and just recently got burned looking for them. I'm temporarily trying out some Super Stroke grips while I wait for these ones. Even though I went to FSU, I'm probably going to get a variety of colors and might avoid the FSU-style grip (with no logos I actually prefer the other colors). In my recent back/forth with Golf Pride, it sounds like the Standard will be released sometime in May. Of course, outside factors could delay things, but that's the latest I heard.
  8. Quick rundown of my experience -- some of it is repetitive with what others said. I've had a good-but-not-great experience with them, but I continue to go back. I've been to two locations and am about to go again in a couple weeks (if COVID doesn't cancel it). I'm happy with the equipment that they fit me into, and their fittings gave me a lot more confidence than others fitters. Some highlights: Expect to spend $$$. Fitting Fee: Unlike many other fitters, they don't waive the fitting fee with a purchase. However, if you make any purchase, they waive the fitting fee in the future (at least that's true with the Full Bag fitting), so you can go back and tweak things as needed (that's why I'm about to go for a third time). Shafts: you're most likely buying a shaft on top of your current club setup, and depending on the shaft, it could be a lot of money. Expect another $200+, upwards of $1000 depending on the shaft. I went with Accra wood shafts -- my driver shaft was $450 after everything ($365 shaft plus new OEM adapter plus installation), and the 3-wood shaft was closer to $275 -- there are cheaper options out there, but there are also more expensive options (e.g. my buddy that did a fitting alongside me walked away with a $650 driver shaft). Heads: May not be applicable to you, but a full club direct from the OEM is the same price as the head only, so if you swap out the entire club and choose an after-market shaft, you'll be paying a steep price. If you choose a head/shaft combo that's a standard offering from the OEM, you pay retail plus add-ons if desired (see next); if you choose an after-market (like my Accra), a $400 retail driver can balloon up to $700+ very quickly. Add-ons: They will push PUREing the shafts, which does make some difference but may not be noticeable to the typical amateur (I've hit my clubs well, but can't say that it would be different if I skipped PUREing...). They have different prices if you buy the shaft through them vs. needing to pull the shaft to PURE it (the latter is quite a bit more expensive, almost matching the retail price of certain shafts). Mid-season form? This is more general fitting advice, but make sure you're swinging the club well. If you haven't played much over the winter or you're planning to take lessons early this year, go get your swing in shape first - a few MPH or a slightly different swing path could mean big differences in what you get fit into vs. what you actually need. Using your own clubhead: You can definitely get fit for a shaft with the intention of keeping your own head -- for woods, I've only bought shafts from them, no heads. CarlH summarized this well, although one thing that was slightly different for me -- last time, I was able to use my own driver head with their shafts. It depends what the location has on hand -- they do have a proprietary adapter on all of their shafts, but my location had a Callaway-to-proprietary adapter that they stuck into my head, allowing them to use their shafts with my head. I'm not sure if they'll have the same thing for Ping, but it's possible. Measurements: TENBUCK noted that they didn't take measurements. That was true for me too, which is one of my biggest criticisms of the process (but to be fair, I'm 0/3 on fitters taking measurements). They started with swing speed, ball flight, etc., and once they narrowed the head/shaft combos down to 2-3, they started tweaking based on lie angle and other factors. It didn't feel like guesswork (if I were a few inches taller, I think they would have adapted), but it also didn't feel all that precise. They did have varied length shaft options, so they could test with other lengths, but my frame is pretty close to standard specs. Wedge fitting is...a joke. My first guy told me "wedge fitting is more of a conversation"; my second guy didn't even touch on it. Putter fitting is worth it - they'll tweak your putter on the spot (adjust loft/lie). They'll also tell you the type of putter you should be using and won't push a new one unless you're using the "wrong" model. They use SAM technology, so you likely don't need to go to Club Champion to get this feedback, but it's a nice add-on if you do a full bag fitting. Ultimately, it depends what you want to get out of it. I've done a quick fitting at Golf Galaxy, a couple at GolfTEC, and a couple at Club Champion -- I'd say skip the retail fitting unless they have actual trusted fitters on staff (our location did not). For GolfTEC vs. Club Champion, my GolfTEC location only had a subset of the equipment offered through the club manufacturers, and it felt like they used guesswork to pick the best one of the lot -- it felt more like "I'm going to order clubs online, what specs should I order?". Club Champion was a more comprehensive fitting that gave me more confidence in the outcome, but that came at a price.
  9. I've been using UE speakers for years and they are consistently impressive. I picked up a Boom 3 a few months back to use in my office -- I wish I knew about the custom color options before buying it. The best thing about the brand is that they make them convenient for various outdoor activities -- the old UE ROLL had a bungee that would secure it to a bag strap or cart frame, they can chain together to put out some awesome sound, many of the Boom series speakers fit in a standard cup holder (or water bottle pocket for walkers), and they're waterproof, which is not something I've found with some of the more recognized name brands. The only odd thing is that there seems to be a different phone app for each speaker model/category -- you don't need to use the app to connect to a single speaker, but if you want to chain multiple speakers together, that's where the app comes in (so you can't chain a BOOM with a ROLL or a BLAST, but it looks like you can chain a BOOM with a MegaBOOM, and can chain with older models of the same category). Thanks for the review - it's got me thinking of going out and designing a new one for the course.
  10. This feels unfair because I got approval from the wife to replace my entire bag this year (she gave me a check for Christmas that said "For: New Golf Clubs, Amount: A Bunch" ) but here goes: Clubs - see signature for details 3W, driving iron, and all three three wedges are unchanged from the end of last season (5 pts) Driver: upgraded the head because of cosmetic damage, kept the same shaft (0.5 pts?). But I have another custom shaft on order, so... (-0.5 pts) Putter: I did upgrade to EvnRoll, but I've been using putters designed by Guerin Rife for a few years now (used a Rife back in the day, switched to some other things for a few years, then discovered Guerin Tour Spec a couple years ago, using that until I picked up my EvnRoll). Irons: Same brand. Newer model. Better shafts (for me). Goal was to pick up a few yards - it worked. Bag: replaced over the winter, picking up a Vice Force because it's waterproof. Used it from day 1 this season, so technically a point. (1 pt) Glove: I use a variety, but did not change this year -- I'm continuing to work down my stockpile of Under Armour, Vice, and Golf Gods gloves that I bought in bulk last year (1 pt) Distance Device: Still have the Bushnell Hybrid GPS/Laser. I tried a bunch of tracking devices including a new one this year, but I'm off those for now, so it counts. (1 pt) Ball: Again, a variety. Not anything I find (I usually just toss the found ones into the fairway for others to scoop up), but mostly consistent with the variety. I did try some new models this year though... (0 pts) Shoes: Nope. I went through some new Pumas that I didn't like, picked up some True Linkswear (used more as casual than golf), and ultimately picked up two pairs of New Balance that mostly matched a pair I already had (1 Minimus, 1 Minimus SL). I'm pretty set on these now, so next year I should get the point. (0 pts) Wildcard: I go through too many ball markers and similar accessories to take this point. This year I picked up a few things from Eyeline (swing and putter aids), tried GameGolf Pro, picked up some frivolous things like a Birdicorn, Happy Gilmore towels, and new headcovers. (0 pts) Technically 8 points. It should be quite a bit higher next year.
  11. I'm late to the game on this one (found the thread while searching for something related). I've tried quite a few pairs of spikeless shoes over the years with a goal of finding a good cross between golf (traction/stability) and running (comfort/stability) so that I can give Speed Golf a try (although I've yet to try it...). In that testing, I found: Puma Ignite NXT: I am not a fan, mostly because of traction - they are very comfortable, but I slipped a lot with them, so I don't use them anymore. I think they'd work well in spongy conditions, but I did not think they worked well in dry or slightly wet conditions. I tried both the SoleLace and the Disc with similar results (SoleLace broke, and they replaced them under warranty with a pair of Disc). Adidas AdiPower S Boost 3: I've also tried two pairs of these for a different reason. This is the closest to what I was originally looking for (run/golf combo) -- traction is very good, they feel stable, and they provide good cushioning. They make for an easy walk, and they seem to support running reasonably well (not quite the same as running shoes). The one problem I had is that one of the two pairs feels odd in the tongue area, leading to some pain on the top of my foot after wearing from a while (it's not a problem on the second pair, so might be a slight inconsistency in manufacturing). Added bonus: you can still find them, and they are cheap considering the 4 is on the market. New Balance: This is my new go-to golf shoe brand. The Minimus SL is my top overall pick for walking the golf course. Fit and comfort are at the top for me with good stability and traction (traction is slightly behind Adidas, but really just a different feel). I have had no issues with these shoes to date. Not the best for running, but a great golf shoe -- I decided to pick up a pair of the spiked Minimus and now wear these two models almost exclusively on the course. True Linkswear: I agree with most of the prior comments on True Linkswear. I picked up the True x Linksoul knits a while back and now use them more as a casual shoe - they are probably the most comfortable walking shoes I've worn (in general, not just for golf). I've worn them on the course a couple times and they held up OK - lower in stability than the others and not for wet weather, but traction and comfort are both very good. One of the loops on the heel tore off when putting them on one day, but that has nothing to do with shoe function.
  12. Yup, my + straight line does actually end up a bit diagonal after the adjustment, but it's still perpendicular to the target line. As you noted, the eyeline design makes it look straight from top-down. I'm just curious if you've tried both methods and whether there is a noticable difference in ease of alignment. Then again, for $15, it might be worth a shot anyway.
  13. I currently use a custom Accra shaft, and I like to keep a second shaft around just to switch up feel from time to time. Considering my past success with Rogues, I tried to self-fit into a new 130MSI... And it just hasn't worked for me. I'm in about $550 on this shaft ($425 retail plus Pure plus adapter and grips), so now I'm just trying to recover some of that as I replace it with a second Accra. PM me if you're interested - feel free to make an offer. Details: Aldila Rogue Silver 70 130MSI, TS flex. Adapter is a Callaway Opti-Fit "Tour Strong" (nearly identical to the standard adapter, but instead of going from -1° to +2°, it goes from -2° to +1°) - I used it in both the Epic and the Flash. SST Pure and assembly done by The GolfWorks. Length is 43.75" (ordered it to be 44.5" assembled). Shaft has been used for about 5 rounds plus a few range sessions; recently put a new SuperStroke Traxion Tour grip on it, which has only been used for 9 holes plus a warm-up range session. Open to reasonable offers (would entertain a trade offer involving an M5 3 wood head). Price: $330 delivered* *Shipping/exceptions: I will ship UPS Ground, up to $30 (I expect it to be less than that, but if it's more based on location, I'll ask you to cover anything over $30), or cheapest option (up to you). I should be able to ship it out the next business day after receiving payment. I will ship faster / other methods as long as you pay the difference between that and Ground.
  14. @edingc Thanks for the review. How do you feel about the curved line at the bottom of the mark (closest to the clubface) vs. a straight line? I have a similar marking cup that I took off an old Adidas bag that makes more of more of a + shape, but I often shift the crossbars toward the face to make a mark similar to this (only difference is mine is a straighter line, where EyeLine has a curve to match the shape of the ball) -- I'm curious if the curve makes much of a difference at address.
  • Create New...