Pete Player

Same relative bounce will and should have logical gapping. 54.12 - 58.08, 54.14 - 58.10… should work as pairs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

More osscillating from the butt end than 1° difference. Add- or delofting happens on every shot by heart. Different sahafts make a big difference. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

One in the pocket, which I play with. And enough for finishing the round in spares in the bag. Minimum of two sleeves reserve in comps. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think, you will find a suitable product from these offerings near by. https://www.distrelec.ch/en/epoxy-adhesives-scotch-weld-3m/pf/165170

I did a little collage of the irons I have played or still do searching them in the web for photos. Not in scale. The smallest heads are Miura and MP-69, which are pretty much the same size with thin sole and topline. Thirty years of irons in the bag in chronological order top left to bottom right. - Spalding DOT • Regular steel, probably DG R-300 - MacGregor Reverse Draft • Excel graphite stiff - MacGregor Tourney VIP 1025 CM • Precision Riffle Flighted 6.0 - Mizuno MP-60 • True Temper Dynamic Gold S-300 - Mizuno MP-69 • True Temper Dynamic Gold X-100 TI - Mizuno MP-4 • KBS C-Taper 130g/X - Nicklaus-Miura Commemorative • NS Pro Modus3 120 TX • KBS C-Taper 125g/S+ Did not understand, it has been only less than four years on one set, average. This last one though was double the money or triple actually after the reshafting after one season played. And will keep them in the bag for at least three more years. And testing the new every now and then, I am pretty confident that my next irons will be from the Mizuno MP-line. The previous Hot Metal Mizzunos felt too hot to be honest. Woun’t probably get them hollow-bodied, mut probably few degrees stronger will be an order at 60-yo. I am gonna try to do the same with drivers, fairway woods and wedges and putters as well. The longest in the gaming bag is my putter, and I’ve got a feeling that drivers have been many. At least 1.5 times the irons count. Spent money I will not summarize. It would make me sorrow, cause the game feels as if it hasn’t improved much, yet now off index 2.3.

Actually I was thinking steel, cause I play steel myself. Graphite work is familar due other hobbies and I wouldn’t pull a graphite without proper equipment. The risk of making a minor crack is too high and a pence worth repair will suddenly cost a new shaft at least.

Heating the ferrule will expand the hole.

Xylene works also very good, specially on glue resedue.

I don’t know, if it counts, but I reshafted a couple old wedges with their orginal shafts, when the iron set shafts were pulled out from the used heads replacing them into new wedge heads. I did it with Bison Quick epoxy, which has 100 kg tensile strength. The Metal adhesive 2-compound would’ve had 300 kg. I was wondering how much force is applied on mishits across the glue between the hozel and shaft across the shaft axis? And what brands of adhesives do they use in the tour trucks, when they quickly assemble a club for team players at a tour stop? Another question is, what would be the best practice to pull a shaft without proper clubsmith vice?

Years back in Spain on a spring camp in changing location some 400 k to another town… As I packed my bag into a travel case, did not check all the clubs were in the bag. On arrival found out few irons were missing in the middle. Had a competition on the way few days ahead and rushed to a golf shop to buy replacements. Nothing that could fit my clubs and fill the gap. Bought a set of Titleist AP2-712s and took them out onto the range same night. Could not hit the ball pure with them, yet same shafts and ”same” everything. Total crap of a club that! No feedback on impact, and the feel was as I was trying to hit a golf ball with a matchbox. The sound was a hollow ”klop” and the ball flight was questionable. Played in a comp the next day after a sleepless night and scored a pretty respectable 78 with them. Sold them off in two weeks for half the price payed for and returned back to the clubs I used before, Mizuno MP-60. Lesson learned, keep better care of your gear and never buy any club by other people’s oppinions.

I play D0-D1 in my irons. But used to have E-C2 when had my second set with graphite stiff before changing to iron shafts. Last purchase I got fitted for Modus3 120 TX, cause played C-Taper 130g/X before that and wanted the same overall weight and C-Taper was not available. I really like the dispersion with C-Taper and the rigid feel of the impact with them. Also the ball flight is a tad lower with C-Taper compared to many others. Because the experience on C-Taper, I had them reshafted and the feel came back to me. Not quite familiar how the classic swing weight scale works, but I believe the numbers implement the balance point and the letters to club overall weight somehow. The graphites I used to have were frequency matched and therefore the old figures were oddly oscillating from E to C every other club being E and the next on the C-scale. The set felt being in really good balance and similar from club to club, yet the old scale told otherwise. For me the overall weight is more important than the balance point due swing rythm, and I find a head heavy club tough to time properly on full swings. In chipping however I like the wedges to be 1-3 dots head heavier than the irons otherwise. And lately been reshafting the wedges with the same shaft as I use in my iron set. Reshafting is worthy action, if the shaft isn’t working properly for your swing, but if you are satisfied with the flight a shaft gives, there are other measures to alter the swing weight between butt and head weight, which I’d test before reshafting.

Yet the issue seems to be the advertizing, the accusation of an emploee taking knowledge with him to another company is intresting. Obviously anybbody, who’s taken part in club design have classified, company only information on the developed product. If a person leaves in the middle of such project, I believe there are terms for thy using the information in his work with a new company. In TaylorMade policy they seem to renew their product line very frequently. I’d consider 2-3 years of not using the newest information would be enough for them to have an edge over someone trying to copy their products. I would not think one would breach such an aggreement, taking on his new job. And general knowledge gathered in taking part is an asset of a person, and attribute of an expert. Could be decicive point, why one is selected over another candidate. For instance in F1 Adrian Newey has been the wizzard in designing new cars for different teams winning the championship over and over again. Yet the product of a wholesale franchise can be called cheap, I doubt the pay isn’t far off from lucrative for a designer of such caliber. And the revenue flows in with the greater numbers in items sold. Costco is big enough to defend in the court, if that’ll be the case, but in the case of TM winning, it would be intresting to see how much the settlement for compensation would be. The compensation numbers in civil actions against companies have been ridigulously high for someone like me. Observing from outside the US and the amounts somehow reflect the revenues, not the actual damage done to people.

Looks to ne a time stamp issue. Same post apearing twice.

I cannot find my liked comments on Tapatalk. Is there something, I don’t understand in the API or forum?

You have a lot not in the bag items there. I would think it would be more beneficial to figure out, what to have in the bag.

Hense, further in the North you have 20-24hrs daylight. Used to go practice onto the range at 11 pm 4-5 times a week and spend a good three hours there with video camcoder back, when I started golfing at the Arctic Circle. Where I am now located there is playing worthy light conditions till close to midnight during midsummer for about two months. And sunrise at 4:10 am. Our senior committee organizes a shot-gun start comp at summer solstice starting at 4 hundred hrs, The Early Bird Stableford. And up in the north you can play thru the ”night”. At our home town there it was a common trade to start moving the lawn at 1 o’clock am. And do other gardening work, planting flowers and hedge in the early hours, cause you honestly don’t get tired, when the sun shines thru the night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking at all the new hollow bodied models off the different makes and specially all them different putter makes and models. I am wondering how there are only once in a while case in point on the patents and design in general. New Tallion blade with a goose neck hozel could be as much a Spotty Hameron as if it was the P790 vs Kirkland Signature iron case. There are so much similarities in club design with them bolts on toes and heels for putters and drivers with a railed weight in the back of the head in drivers from different manufacturers, it makes me wonder what is or could be the treshold feature to press charges. There was a trend a couple of models back in the bladed irons, where about every brand went after a triangular or parallogram shaped muscles in the back either inside a cavity frame or on top of the lump. To me they all looked pretty much the same except the logo and some very tiny brand oriented features. I would rather than read of the lawsuites see the rivalry in trying to explain the difference in performance, feel or production methods abd explanations, what the so called difference is by the players perspective. My 5c would be, how much different can a lump of carbon steel be from another, unless it is either off different compound or molded differently into the same shape.

I’ve got 85g on my Fwy’s and 76g on my Driver. Irons are 125. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Intresting, that you have 70g driver shaft and just 105g irons. would think a 59-65g driver would work better, if you hit them irons solid.

Finnish Senior Tour without any noticable success lately. Once got P2 on an event, before the injuries started. If a trip in Europe, i allways look for the Senior Golf Tour Europe events, if one would be close enough, where I’m staying. Since then it has been basically rehab after a rehab not being able to swing the club properly missing some 50 - 70 meters off the tee till this spring, when I finally got to do proper off-season during winter and gained allmost back the max chs as in mid March scored 117 mph and 163 ball. When more optimal strike I can still carry it in the 260s mtrs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cut line Level par, High Round: 84, Lyle is not in it, is he?

Yah, new to the forum, member at GolfWRX and many others as well. i’m a competetive senior player, who competed in different sports as youngster, but got on golf in my mid 20s. Later, since widowed by devorce got crazy over golf and play some 150 rounds a season. That may not sound a lot to people, who can play year round, but our season is seven months, give or take. Really analytic and have a good eye for swing flaws, which has held me back in performance on the course. Lately, since aging is taking a toll, have had a slump for injuries, but now finally back strong again, stronger and more consistent than ever. Shooting mid 70s and few sub par rounds a year. But could all of a sudden shoot high 80s as well. Looking forward and aiming for zero handicap before turning 60. Big gosl is to play my agr before 70th birthday. Still can hit the ball far enough to par a 6500 yds course now and then. Touring the national seniors as an amateur and play occationally other comps as well. I never could trust a hybrid behind my ball at address, so my bag is a set of irons and two fairway woods and a driver. Putter ofcourse. Two extra wedges. In the bag: Callaway Mavrik Sub Zero 9° (+1 N) - Px HSRDS Smoke Yellow 76g Stiff TaylorMade R9 T3 (+1.75°), TP 5W, OEM TP spec Stiff shafts Nicklaus-Miura Commemorative irons 3-P, KBS C-Taper 125/S+ Cleveland RTX-3 wedges, 52°/mid bounce, 56°/mid bounce, KBS C-Taper 125/S+ Scotty Cameron STUDIO SELECT NEWPORT 2.7 swan neck, 34” Matador grip if available, now SuperStroke PistolGT 2.0, which I do not really prefer, but had to try. The 1.0 size would have been better, I guess. All other clubs are gripped with MCC 4+ midsize grips, except for the extra wedges, which have the norm tapered grips., Srixon Z-Star XV in summer and comps, norm Z-Star in cold. And a variety of tour balls, on casual rounds, Tour B X, -ProV1x, ProV1…

Cannot really say, what would be the proper prize. i am a member at our club team in seniors and we get the range balls free. And are required a 4-hr voluntary work within the club. I’ve been coaching and guiding newbies into the sport as we have these club game nights, where we act like godbrothers to the new beginners and club index players, ie. people having an index 37 or higher. Club Game night starts with a short info of different topics of the sport: how to practice, basic rules and pacing the play, equipment and clothing, short game practice, putting, swing basics and how to controll your distance in half shots, what ever… Then we go and play nine holes in groups, where there is a more experienced guide with the newbies trying to get them understand, it is not the score that counte, but the enjoyment we get from a succesfull shot or hole. These been really popular, four to five groups every time. Cannot take more than an hour of tee times for it, cause the round will last too long anyway as you could imagine. Some of my countrymen and women are so stubborn in hitting a ehot from a poor spot and unplayable lie, they just keep whacking without listening.

I play the Nicklaus-Miura irons and have been on Mizuno blades for fifteen years prior to my LE set. The irons feel a touch firmer than Mizzies I’ve had, MP-60, -69 and 4. All sets are made of forged carbon steel, but Miuras feel is somewhat crispier than Mizunos. I have a strong belief, the culprit is the 3-stage forging, which should give the club head a more uniform integrity than fewer strikes. And if I have understood, Mizuno uses a grain flow tech to finish the clubhead. To my understanding that is a method alike soda blasting, but with some heavier grain to pound the surface into a denser form than the core of the head. Could be, that there is more material in thicker lattice also in the Miura putters, which could partly explain the heavier head. Disclamer: There is a new KM putter out just now, and I was searching for it and ended up here. The review was very informing and well written so I replied to it.