Oudefart

Eliott Bag Company Can’t say enough about Scott Halter and his product. I’ve done almost a dozen headcovers now with him. He’s just great. Just about any image that can be digitized he can do for you. Your choice of leather color and inside lining and well worth the $$ (about $80 on average. If you use him, please tell you heard about him from the San Francisco guy that does the Grateful Dead stuff. He’d appreciate it. If you have any questions about my experiences, please feel free to DM. Some examples -

I think from a fitter’s POV there are a couple things to think about, all which basically lead back to the same place, which is - what do you feel most confident with. The lofts are basically pretty similar so the distance will tend to be relatively the same, though the ball flight getting there will be slightly different. Though the lofts are similar, the lengths are not, which indicates that the hybrid (whatever number) should be easier to hit. That said, many feel that the hybrids go left too easily. Sort of a good thing since many players tend to push/slice the longer clubs, however much of that is due to players trying to hit a hybrid like a wood. That’s incorrect, they are hit like irons and this change usually eliminates the left miss. When fitting, what I care about is gap distance. It’s best when players know their TRUE yardages with whatever their longest iron is, AND their shortest FW. There is a gap between those two that needs to be addressed. This gap could be one club or two depending on how wide it is. I don’t care what number is on the club. What matters is what addresses the XXX yd gap (fill in blank). this could be 3H, 2H, 7W, 5W or maybe a combo of two of those. Lastly, if that high end gap warrants 2 clubs, pull the lob wedge out (especially if 60* IMO) it’s a club that is not needed or useful for most players. Higher the hdcp, less useful.

IMO and experience as a fitter for the last 10 years, along with spending an inordinate amount of time with PGA Class-A pros, a 60* wedge is probably the most wasted wedge/purchase of amateur golfers. They don’t know how to play them, they’re typically too low a bounce. Put a club in your bag that actually helps.

GENERALIZAITON From reading these responses and looking at the corresponding handicaps, there seems to me a pattern that the better players are the more likely to hit range prior AND more importantly, with some kind of purpose in doing so. Also curious, for all those with no range at their course, where and how often do they practice vs. play? Last thought, how many go to range AFTER the round to work on something specific from how they just played?

Like many of you, have been a Seamus Golf fan for years, still am. I have an entire set for backup bag. However, about a year and a half ago, I saw somewhere online a pro's bag with Grateful Dead covers. Had to have them. It took me about 2 wks to track it all down, but found out they were on DJ Trahan's bag and were made by Eliott Bag Co. in Charleston. I got in touch directly with owner Scott Halter, a great guy to work with. I asked if I could custom design my head covers. "If I can digitize it, I can make". They are great quality leather, you can choose your inside color. Very competitively reasonable price in the "Head Cover" game. Give him a shout and let him know you saw it on MGS. Here are the results. 1st two pics for my daughter's bag. Deadhead, and her obsession with the Mandalorian and the tower in SF. My bag

Those numbers ARE NOT lie angle, they're lofts. If you actually look at the majority of clubs on the market, you'll find that throughout the sets the lie angles are essentially the same. Like most set lengths (1/2" increments), the lie angles are .5° different in the progressions. Starting backward, most PW are 64°, 9 = 63.5°, etc. all the way up to the 4 or 3i. Almost all wedges are 64° from manufacturer. Lofts are all over the map. About 8 yrs ago, I made a spreadsheet of the 7i lofts of every iron sold in a store (from manufacturer's website specs), in comparison with the Miura CB-202 I had at the time. The difference was 5° of loft separation! I was wondering why I always felt a club short. My buddy was telling me he was hitting his 7i 200 yds! It was lofted the same as my 5i. Back then then the trend was starting to jack the lofts in search of the longest club. Now then manufacturer's are thinking more about launch windows, spin and decent angles and how those stronger lofts effect such things. Remember, it was this trend that brought us the gap wedge. Back to lie angle, it's about dynamic impact. That's why a good fitter will measure that in conjunction with the length of your club. When your swing changes and/or gets better, it's not uncommon for the lie angle to change. In the same vein, a lie angle won't make up for a bad swing. It will help a little, however making a club more and more and more upright, won't change the fact that a person casts the club and hits in right with an open club face.

For the sake of this answer, let's make the assumption one is between a 9i & PW (although it applies throughout). You can grip down (1/2" or so) on the 9i or longer club. The way most club sets are built in 1/2" length increments, you are now effectively swinging a stronger lofted (by 3-4°) PW or shorter club. The ball will spin a bit less and fly a little lower. This should easily cover the situation, PROVIDED you still swing the club the same way, with the same intention as the PW. It's when trying to swing a little smoother, or slower, or "take something off it", because you have "more" club that the problem arises. Typically that result is lost ball speed as the quality of the strike is diminished and you come up short with a mishit. Sure it's possible to nuke one and fly the green target, but not that likely. Another option which sometimes works is take the shorter club option, move ball back in your stance a couple ball widths and deloft the club with your normal intentioned swing. However this is probably a bit more risky and for better players, as the miss will tend to be a combination of hitting it fat and left.

F/S: TOULON SAN DIEGO PUTTER - 2022 $380 OBO Played 3x - everything original. I tried a blade, just not for me. Good for you. - LENGTH = playing length is 36 1/8" (it was ordered @36", but grip butt cap makes it a hair longer) - LIE = 2° flat - LOFT = 3° - SHAFT = Stroke Lab 3Gen green - GRIP = Stroke Lab Oversize (Toulon) Virtually brand new. MSRP = $449.99 If you need any further information or pics, please feel free to ask.

I too suffered from this a while back (except for the slice part). Just couldn't hit a driver. I got on Trackman and figured out what the swing issues are and then sought to address that. However at this point in age, my swing is basically what it is and I have to work/live with it. That said, I found the "Mini" driver to be the solution. A bit smaller head and played at 44", it's great for me. I first started a while back with the Callaway 1.5 Mini, then went to Taylormade Original One, 'cuz it was 20yds longer, now I play the Taylormade 300. I had the luxury of playing roughly 70+ rounds alone which allowed me the opportunity to test all this in real time under real conditions. I do still own a driver, but it's still not worth it. When I hit it "perfect' it about 8-12yds longer than the Taylormade 300. However, the number of fairways hit isn't even close. Yeah, I'd be one less iron closer, but I hit mine far enough that I don't see the benefit of not having a better lie. I think that at this point, enough people out there have tried the Mini's and found they're NOT for them. You should be able to find one in good shape used at a big box on online. They come in 11.5° & 13.5°. Not knowing anything, I'd go for the lower one as it's more toward the 2W you're referring to. I recently watched a TXG video about what 5 things amateurs don't do vs the pros. The one that hit home for me was: have a go to shot. I'd rather not stand on the tee with a driver and the mental hopscotch that goes with that than have the 300 Mini in my hand that I have total confidence in. Well, just another opinion. Or, perhaps shorten your current driver to 44.5".

FS: TaylorMade Original One "Mini" driver. $300 OBO - Total club length = 43.75" - Stated head loft = 11.5° - Shaft = Mitsubishi Tensei Blue CK series - Shaft weight - 65g stiff - Includes original head cover - Condition - Used but in great shape. Any questions, please free to DM. Thx for looking.

$280 OBO This was a back-up "driver" for me and is lightly used and in great shape. I'm offering ONE of two shaft options (you pick). Both are Mitsubishi Tensi Blue (both CK), one is 60 Regular and the other is 65 Stiff. Again, I'll ship your choice. Head cover included Any questions, please feel free. Thx for looking

F/S: 2018-19 Scotty Cameron Select Newport – 34” $340 OBO Rarely used in great condition. Actual measurement is a fingernail short of 34". Grip - Matador Midsize If interested, please feel free to DM me. Any questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks for looking. CONUS and legitimate offers only please.

FS: SUB70 4-PW (heads only) $375 OBO 4i head is the 690 PRO model. The remaining 5-PW are the 639CB model. They are .370 heads and need a parallel tip shaft. They are in great condition, lightly played. They are super soft and have a wonderful feel. Lie angle is to manufacturer's specs, loft is bent 1° strong. You will notice in one picture there are a couple of dents in the back from the bending machine. A testament to how soft they are. This DOES NOT effect playability. I should have bent them myself The picture shown of the face is the 8i which has the most wear on it. The other is the 4i just to show the difference FS: Mitsubishi MMT 105TX shaft 4-PW set (heads only). $355 OBO - These shafts are professionally pulled. They are .355 taper tip FS: White Hot #1WS $220 OBO (new) The White Hot #1WS is a wide blade with a slant neck, giving this putter toe hang best suited for strokes with face rotation and arc. This putter features our legendary White Hot insert, available in both a stepped steel and our new red Stroke Lab shaft, each fitted with our gray DFX grip. Extra grip and headcover included. All pics below. Thanks for looking. If interested or would like more information or images, please feel free to DM me.

I have to take exception to this. Full disclosure I work at a big box store. Like any other business the quality of your interaction is in: (1) the person you work with (2) your level of knowledge, discussion, and questions. We are provided a LOT of deep dive information/training from the OEMs, and the ability to demo most everything. It is my job to learn the stuff. Some of us love it, the industry and all things golf, others don't take the time. If you came to our store and of the 10 fitters there, you'll obviously get 10 different experiences. Your job is to know what you're trying to accomplish and if someone is meeting your needs or not. The one place a big box store admittedly may fall short is that we're subject to the offerings of the OEM fitting carts. It's my job to know that stuff inside out, but granted it's not all the possible options. I have fit an awful lot of really good players of the last 5+ yrs and have forged relationships with a handful of local PGA Class-A pros that refer their students to me. Again, we're not all the options, but for the vast majority out there, we're certainly a viable option for more than just accessories. I don't think it's fair to make a blanket statement that we're akin to burger flippers who don't know anything. Also not to mention the clientele that we get who come in and know "way" more than we do because they read the internet. It goes both ways.

FS: New - Odyssey White Hot OG #1WS - $220 OBO - length = 35" - includes head cover & extra midsize grip (see pics) PayPal please and would hope to split shipping cost. Any questions, please feel free. Thx for looking.

sound also has high impact on the perception of feel. I believe that the G425 line (correct if I'm wrong), when PING engineers also truly addressed sound at impact for a "feel" sensation Bottom line - GO PLAY!

I use this ball marker (below), which allows me to place behind the ball and then rotate the middle line based on expected break. then, I line the ball center line up on the marker center line and this gets me putting on my intended putting line.

I’ve been playing the TaylorMade Original One (11.5 head turned down to 10) since it was released. For me a fantastic alternative to the driver. I often play alone on the same course giving me the luxury to hit multiple shots when practicing. After 6+ months of hitting tee shots with both a driver and the Original One, you find out your expected landing spots, the distances etc. The resulting difference was that when I hit them both at 9+/10, the driver is about 8-12yds longer on average. However, for whatever reason the accuracy of the Original One made the choice clear. I’d rather be in the fairway ½ club short than possible vs. OB, in the rough, behind a tree, whatever. Perhaps it’s the ½ to ¾ inch difference in length and smaller face real estate that gives me that confidence over the ball. Lastly, someone previously mention after market shaft. I would completely agree. I think having changed mine out to a Ventus Blue VeloCore made a huge difference. BTW, I also have OEM after market shaft options used in the driver, so the comparison was fair imo.