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  1. Many drivers/woods have one or more screw in weights, you can buy lighter and/or heavier weights and replace. If not you can use lead tape to experiment, and then a fitter can add subtract weight using other methods (bottom of the shaft, inside the club head, etc.) to alter your swing weight accordingly. Lead tape isn’t supposed to be a permanent solution, but some players do it.
  2. Whenever pace of play permits, I count-walk off most chips/pitches of about 40 yards or less, and it helps me gauge my swing length much better than I could by eye. I don’t do that putting, as I don’t use backstroke length when putting, but I guess it could be effective. As for putting stats, I keep track of number of putts on every hole with my Garmin Approach. However I only count putts on the green surface where I should probably count every time I use my putter (including just off the green surface).
  3. My long clubs swing is decidedly different than my irons, I know the principles, that’s probably not it.
  4. I won’t jump to conclusions and I’ll experiment, but that sounds interesting. CC recommended a lighter regular flex shaft to replace the stock (10g heavier) stiff shaft I was using. The swing weight was the same with both. I bought and used the CC shaft for 6 weeks, determined to make it work, but my dispersion was measurably worse. So I sold the CC shaft for about 25 cents on the dollar. I’ve been using the original stiff shaft for more than a year, maybe it’s a little light. Something else for me to ponder.
  5. That’s what I was thinking. Some lead tape and a trip to the driving range to experiment. I can’t figure out why it happens with my woods/hybrids and not my irons? The swing weights on my irons are lower, so I may be looking at this all wrong, but no harm in trying.
  6. There's always a conspicuous consumption market segment in the USA, there's no reason Callaway should ignore the opportunity since they make high dollar ultra light clubs for Japan already. As conspicuous consumption buyers are often older, where lighter clubs are often a fit, why not...
  7. I really don't have a problem getting my irons through square at impact. But with my 3h, 3w and especially my driver - I have to consciously bring the head around on the downswing, or my hands go through ahead of the club head and my drive is a push slice. I assume that's not necessarily typical, and I was wondering if adding to my swing weight might improve my swing sequence with woods/hybrids? I can just experiment with lead tape or heavier weights, but am I on the right/wrong track? [I've been to Club Champion, and they sold me a shaft and kept my swing weight exactly the same as it was off the rack. Not a fan of CC.]
  8. I thought the mud ball testing was very interesting. In friendly play we allow each other to clean off mud, but I’ve kept scuffed balls in play probably too long. As I tend to fade, I should make sure the scuff is facing me…
  9. In a time where pro distances are a known issue, and only one player (Phil) is using a driver longer than 46” - it seems like a no-brainer ruling that shouldn’t be controversial. There have always been equipment limits, no reason a max shaft length shouldn’t be as well. If it’s a big issue, why have so few pros (including Bryson) opted for longer drivers to date? It’s time for Phil to acknowledge he’s a senior after a great career on the PGA like all the greats before him.
  10. Unfortunately that’s not correct. The tech has changed gradually and concurrently but to separate a couple developments. Early on the industry engaged in almost pure loft jacking to increase distances and sell more clubs. That resulted in lower trajectory, lower spin and that’s not ideal for an approach shot. So they lowered CG resulting in higher launch angles, still with stronger lofts. They also made faces more lively adding more distance. So the industry basically ended up choosing to assign club numbers approximately correlated to launch angle/trajectory/descent angle - and that’s resulted in (much) longer distances for a given number iron more often than not. If they’d kept club numbers and lofts about the same, we wouldn’t be having these discussions…
  11. ^^^ That’ll never happen, when you can now buy a “7” iron with a 27* loft. No senior is going to accept a 7 iron with a 35* loft anymore - even though that’s pretty close to traditional lofts, and what todays tour blades still are. All most players ultimately care about is saying I hit my new “7” iron 10-20 yards further than my old one. I see seniors who are kidding themselves about how far they hit there new shovel MAX irons, most oblivious to how lofts have changed for GI/SGI irons. They really think they’re hitting it farther…
  12. I'd agree except where does it stop, when a 9 iron has a 21º loft and the rest of the irons are wedges? So far 2 and 3 irons have been all but eliminated, some iron sets start at 5 now...
  13. Congrats, you're in a select group now. I've never broken 70, and it seems unlikely after trying for 57 years.
  14. I always wear layers when needed (probably below 60ºF), so you can remove layers later in the round when/if it warms up. I rarely have more than two layers, and the under layer is what I think I'll want at the temps projected for later in the round. My top layer could be a fleece vest, a fleece jacket or pullover, or my rain jacket. My under layer is usually a short or long sleeve polo. If it's really going to cold all day (under 40ºF), I'll wear a third layer under of tight fitting warm weather thermals (not the heavy stuff). The only caveat to me is to make sure you choose fabrics and fits with sleeves that don't constrain your arms - that's a serious mistake IMO. You arms need to move as freely as possible. Loose sleeves on the outer layer are a must to me. And winter or rain gloves are a must when it's really cold to me - not a bare right hand.
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