Andrew75

These were forged, where exactly?

Driver Vizard 55 stiff 5 wood Vizard 55 stiff 22* hybrid Speeder 75 regular 7-PW and AW Zelos 7 stiff 50* Zelos 8 stiff 56* NSPro 970 R2 Putter ? Steel shaft with curve

Always check your lofts and lies, from anyone anywhere. I'm usually going to adjust them slightly anyway because I won't pay custom fees. I've been adjusting and checking irons I use for play as standard practice for 40+ years. It makes a huge difference and eliminates favored and unfavored clubs and distance gapping, plus it shows exactly where and when at what precise loft you need to jump to a hybrid because you'll find at a certain point regardless of loft you hit, say the 4 and 5 iron the same distance. All brands are off claimed spec at least once or twice. Most brands also gap less as the iron goes down. With lie it's almost always in the upright direction, and with loft it tends toward more loft. I have simply wondered aloud why that might be.

Front teeth cut.

I'd have to say my current gamers, Yamaha inpres ud+2 2019 forged. Lofts are strong, but the clubs spank the ball well and soles are narrow yet forgiving. The fricoff sole is top notch.. Longest point and Shoot irons would be Bridgestone JGR hybrid irons. Soles are wide, but under many conditions they rock. Another underrated iron is Royal Collection SFD x7 forged. Long and playable.

Oh contraire. I have standard specs I'm looking for when buying clubs. As a rule I always take them in to be checked. The more popular clubs are typically not set at what the manufacturer claimed. They are typically a half to fully two degrees more upright than claimed. They also typically have at least a degree more loft than advertised. I've come to conclude because most people slice the quickest way to appear to not be a slice club is to make sure the heel hits the ground first so the club will shut through impact. And because a lot of people have trouble getting the ball airborne they add loft.

I like that. Though I only carry maximum 11 clubs, I will sometimes take a 59 degree wedge and other times a 15 degree Freiheit driver, depending on the course. The main question is how will I configure wedges. Typically I go 38, 46, 55, but I can also go 38, 43, 49, 56 or 38, 46, 54, 59. I have a lot of really nice wedges. Bounce will also fluctuate, but never more than 11.

I carry 10 to 11 clubs, even for tournament play, and I use them all, frequently enough. 5 handicap, walk/carry, superlight bag, hilly course, age 62, cancer survivor, it's about health and fun more than every advantage.

I'm not a believer in fitters. After 51 years I know my shaft flexes, lies, lofts and lengths very well. I have a strong grasp of smash factor, swing path and trajectory. I'm an experimenter and I'd tried just about every combo under competition. I keep seeing all these reviewers say "see a club fitter" in response to silly questions. I'm no Hogan, but I'd hazard a guess he never saw a club fitter. Went to a club fitter once about ten years ago when everyone was starting to hype them. Well known boutique chain. Had a horrible experience. They are cookie cutters and work from surmises that aren't particularly sound. They want to push certain products to exclusion of others.

I'm biased toward Japanese made forged distance irons. I love Epon, JBeam, Honma, Bridgestone, Yamaha and Mizuno. I've always wanted to try RomaroRay but never have. I'm biased toward Honma woods and Mizuno hybrids. I avoid Taylor Made equipment at all cost. I did use the "A" ball, but reject the Tour Response ball. It went backwards. I've held a grudge against Titleist golf balls, but steadily find myself pulled between AVX and ProV1. I dislike Srixon Zstar and Maxfli tour golf balls. I can't dial in wedges with them. Ping doesn't appeal because they're cast for the most part and stock shafts are atrocious. I like how Japanese are so precise with shaft flex and weight. Try finding a stock 54 gram stiff fairway or driver. Taylor made, for instance reduces weight and flex at same time, so you go from 70 x, 60 s, and 50 r. That's so backward. My sweet spot driver shafts are between 60r and 50s, and hybrids are 70r. The Japanese aftermarket has amazing selection on stock shaft. I am bias against Dynamic Gold shafts and vastly biased in favor of NS Pro. I'm biased against Winn grips. They're disgusting.

I'm biased toward Japanese made forged distance irons. I love Epon, JBeam, Honma, Bridgestone, Yamaha and Mizuno. I've always wanted to try RomaroRay but never have. I'm biased toward Honma woods and Mizuno hybrids. I avoid Taylor Made equipment at all cost. I did use the "A" ball, but reject the Tour Response ball. It went backwards. I've held a grudge against Titleist golf balls, but steadily find myself pulled between AVX and ProV1. I dislike Srixon Zstar and Maxfli tour golf balls. I can't dial in wedges with them.

The unicorn.

I had a poor experience with golf tech. It's a one size fits all approach and they're trying to sell a limited stock of expensive U. S. market goods. One thing, they can't get Japanese equipment. Another, like most manufacturers they assume if you have low clubhead speed you're not very good or have a number of swing flaws. I'm a slow swinger who occasionally shoots in the 60s. During initial intake the guy was incredulous and arrogant. I was looking for very specific things. They wanted to go elsewhere. We did a 10 shot test and I hit ten drives 205 yards right on top of each other and it was clear they couldn't or wouldn't or weren't capable to work with me at the level I was looking for. Mostly I just video my own swing and look for the shafts, clubheads and wedges I want and need between the cracks. I had a close friend who's very gifted at golf and has a limited knowledge of the swing who got screwed up with them as well. It's a system thing. They have a hard time dealing with idiosyncrasies.

Hermes is always good. I also like Moncler, Arc'teryx and KJUS.